DEC 2014--BOB'S BIRTHDAY AND HOLIDAY CHEER

SUN DEC 21, 2014 TO LA

Well it's that time again, Bob's birthday weekend--whether it's exactly a weekend or not, we've got ourselves 3 days holiday in La la land.

OK IT'S A BATHROBE. (MINK COAT WASN'T AVAILABLE.)
We're moving, the 8:27 AM Amtrac train. We're business class upstairs where when I ask the conductor what's up there he says far side is ocean view. Goody.

CAR TO LEFT IS OUR LYFTE AUTO, BABY CARRIAGE IN TRUNK
WE'RE EARLY AS USUAL

 "We're passing the airport where we're not going," says Bob. Looks like we won't be going to the airport with Lyfte after this as our genial Lyfte driver Michael tells us Lyfte can no longer take passengers to or from that repository of rules and regs. He agrees it may be the taxi unions hand in this decision. Drat.

Passing Rocco's condo on the right or think we do. Bob delighted that the highway we are parallel to he is not driving on today. “Up the Rose Canyon fault now” Bob announces. He knows these things I'm blissfully ignorant of. I do remember Mark Wing’s Rose Canyon Cafe we used to frequent 25 years ago. What happens to people?






Bob now goes for bottled water and muffins ("we're paying for it" - there's complimentary wifi too). We decide not to go downstairs for bloody Mary's (you don't need it says Bob--I show him my shaking hands in joking (thank god—so far) reply.

The train is very sparse, an advantage of being the starting location. We suppose we'll pick up passengers along the way.

Sorrento stop. Pretty green hills. Qualcomm seems to own it all! "Bringing disaster where we go", says Bob as we wait and wait at this stop because the conductor finally announces a door is jammed open and the engine consequently has shut down--go figure. We wait for a south bound train to eventually pass which will permit us to proceed. Understandeth not but at least we won't be stranded here for the remainder of the day. Good thing the concert's at 2. Turns out we are only a hundred yards from the Sorrento Valley station when the mini-disaster happened. 

Bob points out that the seat goes back and there's a footrest. "All the comforts of home," I say. And here's water, at first a marsh with ocean beyond and then the ocean, cliffs and dunes.

Next Solana Beach. Bob reminds me that "you lured me to California" with that magical liquid sound. So-Laaana Beach. The conductor warns that each stop must be brief to make up for the lost time.
I don't remember it being so scenic a ride in past. Maybe it's because we're high up. Also Bob reminds that it was supposed to be high surf yesterday, must be today as well.
Surfers undressing and dressing behind their cars and those others bobbing away, groups of colorfully clad bicyclists. Oceanside he announces. But it's Encinitas. Next Carlsbad Pointsettia and the ocean view gives way for a while to shops and then intermittent glimpses of ocean interspaced with packs of houses, many of them double wides.


Carlsbad with its Tudoresque houses.  These are pretty places--seaside locations help.

“Oceanside next. A Coaster ticket will take you this far.” Not by a long shot as pretty as Carlsbad and the others though a sailboat harbor has charm. Camp Pendelton doesn't. And we're racing the neighboring cars on I-5. I've been reading a Sue Grafton and I wish I had her powers of description to describe the magic of Southern California in evidence here.






I hear a woman doing a high minded monologue. Something about an anthropological perspective. "We don't have to have high-minded conversations," says Bob. I say we resolutely refuse to. She's saying “What does it mean.” Good question.

Still plenty of water to be seen; now we are yards, then feet away then hovering right over the waves. Lovely. Then the backsides of beach front houses crammed together.

San Juan Capistrano. Pretty stop. Dads taking photos of toddlers at a petting zoo. Hummingbird cafe feasters having breakfast outside by the cactuses. Then hills of green.


THERE'S A PETTING ZOO HERE.




Bob notes we're approaching the big merge of I-5 and 405. (Stuff he as driver-in-chief knows) But I see no evidence of that from this vantage.

"If Irvine is your destination" (it isn't) "now is the time to gather your belongings". The conductors voice is convivial, unflappable. He's positively avuncular. Makes even Irvine welcoming. Bob says "New Jersey. You're in New Jersey."

Very pleasant. We vowed that this coming year's subscription at the LA Taper will be the last but I'm thinking if there's a production we really want to see, we could take the train, stay over at the Omni (it is a long ride at 2 1/2 hours each way after all) no muss no fuss.

Santa Anna coming up. Very big, very Spanishy station. We're here only twenty seconds or so; wonder if anyone gets on or off--they'd sure need to hustle if they did.

"Anaheim next." "Scenic Anaheim; one big business park," says Bob. There's the Angel Stadium, a relative bright spot.





ANGELS STADIUM
Looks like we'll be about twenty minutes late.






"Fullerton coming up in a moment." (He varies his signposts.) We're clearly into the industrial look part of our journey but that station itself is modern and pretty.








The day started out clear (weather talk) and now it's overcast.
I miss a photo of a long wall of graffiti (great subject, the artistry and  colors pop) and realize how much I love taking photos; and this little trip offers so much photogenic opportunity. I tell Bob that all of the landscape is beautiful, even the industrial part with its geometric planes and strange shapes. Mini oil pumps rhythmically pumping for example are beautiful.






The plenitude. Phalanxes of trucks, of containers. Power towers. I tell Bob it's sensory overload for me . He says, close your eyes.


Pass "City of Vernon. Exclusively Industrial." At least they're honest.

And then in the distance the big city of dreams rises out of the mist.



We're in the iconically photogenic Union Station with its exciting passage to a taxi that whisks us to the Omni by noon.








IT'S LA. THERE ARE HOMELESS PEOPLE.


SISTERS. SISTERS.

LA TIMES BLDG.

SCARY AND BEAUTIFUL.

And our suite here is ready for us. It takes five minutes to get all of our vouchers for 3 days of breakfasts, drinks (2 a day each) and appetizers to compensate for the loss of the club lounge under renovation. The clerk tells us that it will be "even more exclusive" which I translate as more expensive. She says it will be $100 more per night because people were having meals and drinking a lot at the open bar (well I never!).



We better get a lot out of this day as it's the shortest day of the year says Bob. We no doubt will since there's so much scheduled.

On the way to the Patina Grill at 12:45 we pass the construction of The Contemporary at The Broad (Eli Broad's erection to himself) much progressed since last we saw it, swathed in most of its skin now. Plenty of tables since the adjacent Taper starts at 1 and our matinee is the All Mozart concert of the  Philomonic at the Disney at 2.

We're serenaded by the doo wop duo singing Christmas Carols this time to the entering Taperites. The fingerling potatoes accompanying our perfect cheeseburgers are great. Waiter: are u still working on this? I To Bob. No you're slaving over it. (Hate that favorite “working” expression from servers). It's 1:10. Guess we don't need that much time to dine here. Didn't need to be anxious.


Good to know you can catch the pre-concert lecture from any parapet at any time prior to the concert. But we catch the finale where he talks about Mozart’s burial at age 35. Oh well.

The program: Trevor Pinnick conductor. Overture to La Clemenza di Tito; piano concerto No. 9 in E-flat major, Beatrice Rana, young in a great sparkly lavender gown is technically magnificent, though she sounded tentative in the andante passages. She takes an encore with Pinnick himself, jubilant and fun.








 Intermission. Time to explore some of the numerous nooks and crannies in this marvel of a sculpturesque hall where there are no bad seats (we're rather high up). Our first time here we sat on opposite ends of the auditorium and traded seats at intermission. Had second row center last year at this time for Master Chorale's Handel's Messiah.

Symphony No 39 in E-flat major. Six German Dances. (This a last minute substitute because the scheduled soprano Miah Persson withdrew--illness.) Not the kind of dances you can Zumba to but lovely and lively nevertheless. It's MOZART for gods sake. Even if he wrote it on the fly as it’s said what could be bad?
SKINNY LADS














Afterward that short walk to the Suite Life. Again it's so comfortable, hard to leave. But we do have our obligation to trade in our drink vouchers (2 apiece per day) at the Noe Bar downstairs.

Bob as we look over the program at the Taper for What The Butler Saw. "It's geriatric week, Paxton Whitehead (my friend Roger played with him in Candida--Whitehead wasn't young even then, 40 years ago) Angela Lansbury, and me"--well his 76 still isn't 89 or whatever age she is. (It is 89.)

LARGE PATRON

At intermission we are at a very rare loggerheads, I terribly disappointed having thought Orton was incredibly funny when I read him but not now and Bob loving it. He's right. Once I (or they--all practiced actors) get into the rhythm of this satirical farce lampooning British mores in Wildean fashion, I'm hooked. Rape, incest, cross-dressing is the norm here in a psychiatric clinic. "You can't be a rationalist in an irrational world. It isn't rational," says the insane autocratic psychiatrist from "her majesty's government" who blithely declares everyone insane as the plot forces them to remove their clothes.

Then we wander into more over-the-topness in Grand Park, ablaze with Christmas lights. Some teens videoing other kids singing Christmas songs. "All I want for Christmas is you-oo." (U-tube alert.) Bob admitting all of this is what big cities are for.




 Vouchers hot in my pocket we are shortly thereafter back in Noe bar, chardonnays please "Buttery, fruit forward, complete avoidance of Barnyard" we joke and the chef's cheese plate. With lots of accompaniments. Just right.



MONDAY DEC 22.
I decide to be silly in bed in the morning because I've had more than the requisite 7 hours and Bob now that it's 7:30 has had 102. What to do with myself while he persists in trying to sleep despite my silliness, making funny noises and such and announcing that I'll photograph the toiletries. I hear him say "Good God." (Well they are nice.) He hands me the remote and lies there, inert.


Looking down at the pool. Tip. Next time bring swim paraphenelia  (e.g. suit and goggles), wear suite-supplied silky chamois robe and lap away; it's open at 6:30.


At the reception I complain that we got only 3 breakfast vouchers instead of 6 for each of us for 3 days. Louise or Lorraine offers us extra appetizer and drink vouchers and we, two babes in a toy shop warehouse, are mightily pleased. She says the new club lounge should be open for New Year's Eve.

As to breakfast, it's a no-stinting buffet and I have a custom made omelette as well as everything else in sight. Bob tops his scrambled, cilantro chicken sausage and black bread with a pastry. We are mightily pleased. Ever have that feeling that your food is piled up to just behind your eyeballs? Yup.

We use our need to get change for tips as an excuse to wander to the Bank of America, past the Christmas trees, the sculptures, all the holiday time or any time opulence encapsulated here in downtown LA. Amazing lofty spaces never cease to amaze.

Listening to Mayor DiBlasio addressing cops who despise him after the slaying of two cops. That's a tough one.

MY OLD ITT PROGRAM BLDG. IN BACKGROUND
Lyfte fails, gives a wrong address for our location and offers no way to make the correction so cab it is.
$30.42 for the taxi to the museum. Yikes. (I'd arranged for us to take a bus at the senior rate of $1.50 but Bob decanted).



B says we were here at LACMA many years ago but thinks they've added pavilions. I remember all the modern stuff actually on the main floor of the Ahmanson pavilion. Odd collection of buildings displaying art. The Asian collection is well housed in high ceilinged well lighted rooms of restful dark brown.

Mid-century Japanese pavilion provides slightly vertiginous feeling as one wends up the ramps Guggenheim museum style. Lots of screens. Its special exhibit is art of the samurai.


 We even drop into the Korean Art pavilion. lots of modern pieces.
In The Broad Contemporary the exhibit of African pre-war diaspora paintings by Motley is fascinating. Lots of scenes of blacks in crowds enjoying life mostly in Chicago's ghettos. Vibrant urban energy pulsating with jazz age rhythms. Curated with that music piped in.









THE ELEVATOR IS AN ART PIECE
LONG ROW OF GOURMET FOOD TRUCKS

Another $30 something to get back by cab by our "originally from Ethiopia" driver a bit before 3. Hungry, we buy bananas and chips from the hotel shop and have this repast in the suite (ok I'm fixated on the suitenes of it all) with home brewed martinis.

Our next excuse to walk is to pick up our tickets for tomorrow's Blythe Spirit at the, again those rich endowing Republicans, the Ahmanson. Important to stop at all those holiday festooned places we've visited so many times before, the Bonaventure, the Biltmore, plazas, the (thank goodness) street escalator. The skyscraper lights of downtown are a wonder.







WHERE WE MET HUELL HAUSER SOME YEARS AGO

ANNUAL VISIT TO THE BILTMORE





 



After that long peregrination, we settle into a window table in Noe, quieter tonight--no football game on the TV, instead a piano player, quite good, "let it snow" "taking a chance on love". "0 holy night o night divine." and he can do credenzas while keeping up a conversation. We're happy. Compliments of lovely vouchers. Martinis and steak quesadillas (far better choice than cheeseburgers but likely next time we'll be choosing from the appetizer buffet in the "refurbished" [doesn't look like they've done much up there] club lounge).

A vodka chaser upstairs in the suite and so to bed.

TUESDAY DEC 23.

It's Bob's birthday today. Rocco's birthday text wakes him up at 6:53 but I hope he'll get more zzz's.  I read the 1st day of last year's "birthday weekend" on Mr. Iphone and see that it was pretty much the same as this year's which is bizarre but I guess the idea. Well we did throw in a train ride rather than a drive, an appropriate concession to age.  I did note that the weather was beautiful then while most of the rest of the country was mired in ice and snow. Ditto. The weather report will tell us that the country is experiencing large hail, tornados, severe thunderstorms, howling winds, and frogs a-falling as the morning light streams into our lovely suite. Please god don't punish my hubris. (As you have in the past.)

      Our only "obligations" today are to have the buffet breakfast in the Grand restaurant, have lunch at Kendall's I think, attend the play starring Miss Landsbury and use up the last of the drink and appetizer vouchers. How my obligations to Bob's once a year occasion will fill in the rest is a mystery. Hope he's got some wishes in this matter. Being me I'll probably badger him and that won't be helpful. Play against type Olin!

I find a silky ribbon from a hangar in the closet to give a little pizazz to the tissue paper wrapped present for Bob. He accepts his t-shirt emblazoned with "SOB. Sweet Old Bob" with giggles and though I say this time (he never wore last year's Bob t-shirt bearing a more arrogant legend) he'll want to wear it, I suspect he won't. I say "I'll wear it. People will ask are you Bob. I'll say he's my husband". Bob: "I once knew him." Yes, I'm badgering the poor guy already. Damn. And isn't a gift supposed to be for the receiver not the giver? Though he did receive from me a plush robe--thank you Amazon--something I thought he'd like; he enjoys the soft robes suites provide after all though the one I got him is big enough for a summo wrestler. Well what if he gets really fat in his 80's; he'll thank me then.

     I say you know you're old when you progress from receiving birthday cards sent with 3 cent stamps to iPhone animated greetings. Now he's looking at my jibjab animated card, his visage inserted in 50's newsreels plus my message--the thing works. Then there are greetings from the various cruise lines we've sailed with, RSVP, celebrity, Princess showing a ship taking him to different destinations. This of course gives me an opportunity to summarize the destinations he'll be going to next year, South America soon, good old Puerto Vallarta, then Japan, and then Australia-New Zealand-South Pacific. I guess the badgering persists. Ay yai.

He reads his horoscope. "You have reached the stage where you no longer care what others think of you. . . . Be yourself." Perfect we agree.


Close to 9:30 we stragglers are at the buffet. Good that they vary it. Today there are chiquilladores which are delicious, pancakes instead of French toast, that sort of thing, even a new guy making omelettes though we don't employ his services today. Of the decor Bob notes that the light fixtures are sending up Dorothy Draper (they've been emphasizing mid-century in the hotel's refurbishments we've noted). I say a little Draper goes a long way. Actually they've "branded" the place up--a wonderful Afican jazz musician mural has been papered over--though the dated stone facing here and there from its Four Seasons days when we were frequent guests still remains. We notice that there are still many Asian guests in the hotel (though Bob admits he doesn't know if they're from Asia or here. I don't hear any Brooklynite Vera Wang accents however). The Japanese buffet of past years though is noticeably absent.
     Returning to the room for sunglasses (it's pleasant out) we notice our complimentary paper's headline says New York Mayor Beseeches For Calm" and decide that it's the wrong usage, shouldn't it be "beseeches calm"? Nevertheless, the theme is there. These are times of troubled waters needing some oil upon them.

STAGE MOTHER AT WORK

THAT PARK AGAIN

MUSIC CENTER NORTH
TAKE A RIGHT


MUSIC CENTER SOUTH

    Bob requests that we walk over and look at the Cathedral (which we've also done before). His wish is today's command.

Bob has a Plan: to cathedral, down hill to Broadway, then to Libe and then to the street escalator.

I remark to bob that a group of young Hispanics are switching easily from Spanish to English. "You're bilingual too. English and Yiddish," he responds. "More Gestural than bilingual" I add.

As we approach the cathedral I remark that it's really quite ugly. Bob replies "Its regarded as an architectural masterpiece." I say I'm sticking to it. The actual entrance and courtyard is interesting. Then there's something in the distance that looks like the robot from The Day the Earth Stood Still.

Inside, another story, monumental. Bob points out in one of the many beautiful wall hangings of worshipers of different stripes "mother Cabrini of martini fame." She doesn't look particularly louche. I do recognize Mother Teresa in another. One mother is not like another. (Rhyme).
WOW

ECUMENICAL TIME. ONE NIGHT TO GO.

VERY LOUD BELLS EVERY FIFTEEN MINUTES

DOOR DEVOTED TO MARY

WHAT'S INSIDE?

VIDEO ART: IMAGES OF CHRIST.




THE WORSHIPER TAPESTRIES








NO COMMENT.

THE OTHER DOOR



AMAZING PLACE




Doing Bob's bidding on to the bookstore which is a kick.  Plaster saints for $12. I offer to buy Bob one of his choosing but he declines. In the cathedral I asked if this makes him want to be a catholic again. "No. To be an architect." There's Cathedral of our Lady of the Angels chardonnay for $14.95. That's more to my liking but it's his birthday.

Since the cathedral's rest room looks like a "t room" (explanation only on request) we avoid it for better. I recall my old NYC friend Roger who frequented them and say that it's ironic that he's now a gay priest. Bob's rejoinder is that he's the kind of priest you can be with an online subscription. I recall an anecdote Bob actually says he doesn't remember me telling him that Roger turned down a "gig" he offered me (when I too was an actor) to be a fake Rabbi for a guy setting up a fake wedding ceremony to appease the "bride's" parents. I turned the rotter down probably less that it was unethical but that I felt I couldn't pull it off and the cheapskate only offered $50 (though I could have used the money then). The point was that Roger would have gladly accepted the gig if he was supposed to play a priest. I've known great characters in my time. Father Roger Fawcett makes the cut.







In the category of doing what we've never done we visit the LA Times lobby rotunda with its great WPA mural and little museum. Fascinating display of major front page events over years. And futuristic prophesies.
Now that we're in what Bob considers to be a close approximation of our beloved scary NYC 14th St., he leads me to the Bradbury Building with its magnificent atrium which he says appeared on all those noir movies. Late 19th magnificence.


                                             YOU WON'T FIND THIS TREASURE IN A "POSH" NEIGHBORHOOD

... which this once was

THE BRADBURY. IT'S ABOUT THE INTERIOR.





The million dollar theatre's across the street and next door to that old landmark is the Grand Central Market which we enter. Fabulousness. Bob rightly says we spend thousands to go into places like this in Europe.






LONG LINES FOR "EGGSLUT'S" EGGS
We'll soon glide into the Jewelry district, where there is a plethora of bauble selling shops but first . . .


THE COLORS, THE OPTIMISM!






ONCE GREAT. STILL A TREASURE.




Here's a street artist buttering up a mother. Of her child, "She's so purty I wanna see how she comes out."

No white faces. "As Sondheim lyricized in West Side Story of Puerto Ricans (in LA it's Mexicans). "Everyone there is here."


The streets are Bustling with life. Looming ahead is the Eastern bldg, a blue crinalinated marvel. Now it contains condos. And with it the neighborhood suddenly changes to upscale but first . . ..






Jewelry markets crowd for space. We Pass a place selling Rolexes which Bob peruses. "My watch (today it's a vinyl purple Swatch) is the real thing," I announce. "The real what?"  Hmm.




Pershing park. Bob says of the fountain area, "one of the most awful designs. The wall up around the fountain. Besides its inaccessible, all walled." But it does have an ice skating rink, the ice cleaning machine currently doing its dance there.

ATTACH BALCONIES AND GO UPSCALE


KEEP THE FIRE ESCAPES FOR THE GRAFITTI ARTISTS


ENTERING PERSHING PARK


ICE RINK

I LOVE "NO" SIGNS

A quick turn thru the Biltmore again; we again look at the photos of assembled stars in Hollywood's golden years.







I take a photo of people being photographed in the Biltmore's little wonderland setting, and explain to an incredulous Bob that I find that sort of interaction makes an interesting subject. "You'll take a photo of anything that . . " "moves . . . or doesn't move" I fill in," though offended I think there's some truth there.
How can we pass up the library (even though we've yet to visit San Diego's new downtown wonder) with its colorful ceilings and amusingly charming court.


Not far (thank goodness. I'm getting tired) to the Escalators which are well populated now when at night we were sole occupants.





Taking respite in our suite before heading out to a late lunch, we watch the maid scurry around tidying up. It takes a while. We must be dirty boys.

I tell Bob to his inquiry that I'm a little wobbly. "That's because you're lightheaded for lack of food." I get Yiddish. "I know they had a big breakfast buffet but I shouldn't hold back so much." Ha.

GOOD TO THE LAST BITES

When we arrive at Kendall's after 2, because they're now setting up for dinner, that lovely sound of silverware and crockery, we are given the choice of either the bar or the high table (always fun especially when there's no one else at it--so that's where we'll dine). Our actor, I mean server, is very pleasant and serves us a Vega Sindon chardonnay--tasty--and skirt steaks (large portions) corn potato salad and a mixed green salad.

Bob says "its been a very pleasant day. I'm kveling." Then asks how does one kvell? I illustrate. "It's The rolling of the eyes. A slow declining of the head, preferably to the left and emitting a sound of pleasurable exhalation from high to mid-range tesatura." His attempt is a mockery.

100 some dollars and we're outta there, sufficiently close to Disney Hall's shop, where although Bob peruses the beckoning quirky and pricey items he finds nothing worthy of a birthday takeaway.
DOWNTOWN TOREADORS

THEY GROW THEM BIG IN LA



We're both bent on doffing our shoes, wiggling our toes and resting after the effort of dining well. Which we do.

And then 4:45 knock on door and the hotelman delivers not only a cake for Bob but a bottle of champagne in a bucket plus a birthday card signed with messages by all the staff.  I'd written the guest services woman about his birthday but this is really terrific.  "Talk about customer service." "This brings it to a new level." Click click Happy Birthday!




I've got to thank these people (like keep coming here for starters). We drink our champs watching Josh Barrow on Chris Hayes' show. He's cute says Bob. I'd like to f- his brains I say. That Bob is amused says much about our wonderful relationship.



So Bob is really pleased with his day as we approach the Ahmanson theatre. We've got first row mezzanine so neat. Ten minutes to eight and the theatre is pretty empty. Will it full up in ten minutes?




Turns out BLYTHE SPIRIT at the Ahmanson is wonderful, flawlessly performed by a stellar cast--another bunch of Brits like the Orton production.

This time in the Noe Bar lounge the piano guy also sings, like all those guys who don't have a great vocal instrument but are musicians, more of a jazz vibe. Even on Silent Night. Bartender says it's the same guy. I look, same fedora. Server says he sometimes wears a Phantom of the Opera mask. It's ok (that he didn't), I say.


WED DEC 24

Rather much "fressing" this morning. The spread as usual is generous and there's an apple coffee cake that's delicious. Speculation about an elderly man. I say neurosurgeon. Bob says in the rag trade. We'll never know but guessing is what we do.



We're quite early (I tell Bob who said there'd be huge holiday crowds that he worries for both of us and that's ok). The track hasn't been posted yet so this gives us time to roam around and outside of the great union station. The gardens seem to be a good place for contemplation. I talk of the many times I took the train to and from this station to oversee my LA job training program. This gets me into a discussion of the homophobia at ITT in my last days there. Then I say one shouldn't dwell on the negative when there are so many positive moments. There's our resort for example; we shouldn't let the great times owning it be subsumed by the negative. Treacly thoughts to match boughs of holly and figgy pudding? Maybe. I suspect that it's just hard to achieve healthy thinking.
Announcement as our eyes affixed on the Departures sign, "Jose Vasquez please come to the ticket window." I speculate that there'll be at least five Jose Vasquezes lining up from this passenger pool.

Forgot how long a walk it can be to the tracks, this one, 9B is quite. A trek. Tip. Next year take the courtesy car to the train.

As we wait where we think business class will board, the Coast Starlight train pulls in across from our track. There's the dining car. Memories of our train journey from Seattle to San Diego on the Starlight, the club car, our cabin with the shower over the toilet, the sofa seat convertible to bunk beds. Quite a trip in every sense.





We leave at 10:04, 14 minutes after scheduled departure. I've got an email reply from the loyalty services lady for my thank you for the champs and cake and card we got yesterday for Bob's birthday: "Dear Ms. Olin, I am glad that you and your husband . . . " We are mirthful. Next time I'll need to say I'm Mr. Olin and it's my spouse's (I used that term initially) birthday Dec. 23. We guess "Dr. Olin" would be ambiguous.

Trying to sleep (got only 5 hours last night) but awakened by the conductor at every stop spaced apart every ten minutes or so but then Bob says “Water". And there it is the sand the surf past San Juan Capistrano. "Look how beautiful it is, the weather, and it's Christmas Eve day," I say. Don't want to close my eyes. Might miss the view. It's clear Bob finds the view enticing too.

IS 

BIG BOSOMS


THE SAN DIEGO VERSION IS OUR NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOR



Alas there was equipment exchange along the way and this is a replacement train; hence no double decker level but again we take coast view seats. And to our Santa Fe station in San Diego no slouch in the cathedral station department itself.

Need to rest for our next stop in the holiday continuum our traditional Christmas eve visit along with Don to Rick Campione’s fabulous house on the park there to join hundreds of others, mostly his salon clients in gouging ourselves on giant piles of food and drink at one of the two bars at opposite ends of the pool. On our way down into the living room where the pianist is playing, Bob slips and falls and gives me a great scare; the only hurt seems to be to his feelings when a younger man who leaps to help him up keeps asking him if he’s alright as if he’s attending to his grandfather.













After we take our leave, we take our traditional stroll up and down the street to see the neighbor’s Christmas lights and especially the house whose music and flashing light displays are more elaborate each year—a pleasant finish to a pleasant day.











FAB CONDOS ON OUR STREET ACTUALLY OCCUPIED

THURSDAY, DEC 25 CHRISTMAS DAY
DON'S GIFT BOWL COMES IN A PRETTY PACKAGE







Yes Rocco works on Christmas and he’s in a good mood this year; he’s got a new condo and he’s getting gifts, exchanging a bottle of vodka for our bonus check though his conversation focusses on his deadbeat tenant who has been caught sleeping in one of the warren of rooms he rents out; Rocco has employed Guantanamo torture technique by playing loud music through the night so there’s much discussion about how to legally get the guy out without Rocco falling on the blade of a harassment charge.










My job when we get home is to put together best photos from the 1000 (!) I took during the 3 day LA birthday trip for a slide show at dinner for Don and I make it just under the wire for his arrival at 2:30. We’ve opened the gift he gave us of a beautiful blue glass bowl purchased not at the swap meet, his usual venue, but from his friend Richard’s antique store.  It now sits on the dining table, soon to bear the fruit of Bob’s labors all morning, a glorious Christmas dinner featuring a squash soup for starters, an entrée of ham, sweet potatoes, salad and cranberries and dessert. Don reminisces about his family in Wisconsin and we reminisce about old times too—this is what old people do. Afterward time to subject Don to a slide show of our December peregrinations, the West Coast Santa Barbara Getaway on the Golden, the San Francisco trip for Danny’s memorial service and the LA stay for Bob’s birthday. This time no glitches with the slide show but it and drink have put us all in the mood for beddy bye.

SUNDAY DEC 28.
NOT EVERYONE IS FORTUNATE

What better way to spend the holidays than at the mall, a great American trradition.The mall in this case being one of the better ones, The Mission Center mall. Now our Mission this morning Centers (ha) around going to the movies, catching the opening of the movie adaptation of Sondheim's Into the Woods. On the way we pass Tifany's and see Rocco's client who he charmingly dubs his "Jew" working behind the counter. "What am I? Chopped Liver?" is my retort. Am I not a Jew too? to misquote Shylock. Rocco is an equal opportunity faux-bigot. Calls his Mexivan-Chinese client his "Asian Rose".


As to Into The Woods, I disagree with the premise as evidenced in the song "you are never alone" since some are. Bob says "That's very sensitive of you." I say "I meant it to be discursive." Actually I disagree with reviewers who dislike the second half probably because it's dark and people die. Bob was disappointed. Prefers stage productions of it. I on other hand didn't much like the last production of Woods we saw, a minimalist version at the Old Globe (where it originated many years ago and our first glimpse of it before Broadway) that I felt wanting and I found this incarnation a natural and well realized for the screen.

Head to Sur La Table where all that neat stuff we saw in the San Francisco branch just weeks ago resides. Hence some little foody gifts for Beth and her "boys".





STUFFED DINER AND STUFFED HORSE
Head to J. P. Changs. The 2 person 4 course prix fixe for $39.  Bottle of chard for $20. Hot and sour soup and appetizer both very good. Kung Pao shrimp "delicious" and Mongolian Beef "lovely", meat seared and something else happened to it". "Sauced?" Bob "good choice. Glad we came here. I've been dreaming of a good Chinese meal. Or an American version of one." Two forks and one delicious "incredible" peanut butter and chocolate icecreamy thing. "Authentically Schezuan." $63.75 pre tip. Some waiter eye candy too.




It's still holiday season, we're in a great mall so shopping beckons. There's the Container Store where I find a container for all the freebee stuff we get or plunder on trips and snag pretty, pretty superfluous office things. Obligatory strolls through Neiman Marcus, where 50% off one $64 plastic wine glass is not the 98% off it should be and Bloomingdale's where Bob has us carefully avoid the men's department. Just as well. Though I once bedded a scion of the Bloomingdale clan, It netted me no discounts. (Maybe I wasn't any good?)


We're home after 3, confident that we've accomplished a great deal. After all today being Sunday, we neither of us will exercise (day of rest says the Bible or Ben Franklin's Almanac or something) so cramming stuff into the morning--film started at 9:45--is an age appropriate accomplishment.




Perfect balance of the afternoon watching the Clint Eastwood 1998 film Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (featuring who knew his daughter Allison Eastwood). I always thought it was Kevin Spacey's movie. In a sense it is as a wealthy gay southern gentleman accused of killing his lover and John Cusack covering the case. Stealing the show is a drag queen, Lady Chablis.

ADVANCED STYLE  is next through the auspices of Netflix, a doc about older women with great fashion and personal style. I was meant to see it to reinforce my belief that you must not go gentle into that good night.

FABULOUS WOMEN
Then it's ALTMAN about the career of  Robert Altman, the great Hollywood director maverick whose breakout film was Mash.

This seems to be a theme evening starting with Garden and the Spacey character focusing on charismatic people who develop a mode of being that they stay true to despite barriers.

THURSDAY. NEW YEAR'S EVE
PERFECT DAY FOR A FIRE IN THE FIREPLACE
This will be a quiet day and a quiet evening.  Going out on New year's Eve has struck us as insane for decades, though commerce dictated that we attend that holiday at the Wine Lover and The Villa Resort. Beth comes over after 7, we toast, have pizza and salad and subject her to some slides of recent trips. I of course nod off early but adventitiously awaken minutes before midnight, which gives me a chance to wake up Bob dozing as Kathy and Anderson salute Auld Lang Zyne; We can actually smooch at midnight and hope for the best in the new year.






















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