2011: DEC. 11-31 WEST. CARIBBEAN CRUISE/NYC
DECEMBER 2011 TRIP 12/11-31.
SUNDAY, Dec. 11
It's 7:15 and Don is knocking at our door, wonderfully ready to take us to the airport. 9:35 flight--24 hours after Beth knocked on our door—so nice to have these good angel enablers—to take Reuel to Nia and Zumba dance classes--gotta be limber for the long overnight flight.
Terribly early so we breeze through the search/Interrogation--we're "Travel Professionals" to quote the rental car ad-- and settle into a Carl Juniors (a terminally {joke} deficient selection of food purveyors on evidence--McDonald's, Pizza Kitchen) with a cab and a chard. The start of journeys are always anxiety promoting, I guess angst lies in the making of connections--our sandwiches are encased in plastic containers-- though so far so good. Our server does us the great courtesy of checking our I.d.'s in keeping with the atmosphere of surveillance and caution that pervades this portal to something, somewhere else.
And then the huddled masses yearning to board, pressing toward the gate, a motley group, the Night travelers--all facing inevitable sleeplessness--2 tots look especially baleful. They know.
Ambien works it's magic spell ... up to a point--2 hours of smooze leaving three wakeful ones to go. We've a friend who pays $15K. to fly 1st class--in that instance, I'd force myself to stay awake and my heartrate to beat faster. I write This in the lav, more comfortable than the seat - albeit a coveted aisle one across from Bob's ("travel professional" planning). And now to stand a bit.
Funny I resume reading my ebook, PD James CHILDREN OF MEN, an apocalyptic novel in which the doomed protagonist writes his daily diary. Somehow appropriate but perhaps not the best way to start a journey, especially one designed to be frivolous. Hopping islands like touristic jackrabbits seeking new exotic pleasures. Assuring the apocalypse will come that is. Isn't our 1st stop Haiiti where the apocalypse rehearsed its role with spot-on precision after all? How does a tourist comport himself in such dire circumstance? Scuba dive through the rubble? Or rationalize that his tourist dollars will do some good? Getting ahead of myself now. "Here he sat and listlessly turned over the pages of his diary where he had recorded each day of his travels joyouslessly, meticulously." Well my preoccupation is not joyless. It is not! "This was a journal of escape, not a pilgrimage in search of forgotten sensations." come to think of it, I've been to these places in the prime of my youth--will the recollections evoke meaning? How of the present will the experience be? The diary will surely learn, and perhaps joyfully.
Everything's working. Susan, the celebrity transport coordinator, clearly fighting her sleepiness, greets us at the baggage terminal and escorts us onto the train to terminal B where we discover the inevitable food court and Wendy's egg and bacon melts. An hour has past and it's only 6:30 in the morning, only one panhandler--miraculously succeeding with one lone woman--gradually the court fills up, awakening from it's slumber as we wait . . . Wait.
Finally the helpful Susan hands us off to the garrulous fat Charlie with pronouncedNew Jersey
accent. Points out the refineries and containers on the way and be
Bemoans the haze preventing greater vistas.
Our being very early at the terminal causes some confusion but in fairly short order we go through the maizes with our docuents, encounter the one clerk who seems to never have done this before and after tutorials from her neighboring clerk- and a stopoff to enquire about the insanely expensive alcohol packages) we await our shuttle as we watch the other oldsters (we recognize the familiar demographic) enter the waiting/holding pen.
We're sailing! Bob finishes unpacking the suitcase we were fearful they wouldn't deliver because of the vodka we'd packed therein. Free at last! Fooled 'em. Only NCL cruiselines were hardasses about contraband. this evening we are quaffing to the tune of the incompatable setting one of the 2 comp bottles of champagne we discovered in our cabin, courtesy Amex platinum and Celebrity cons cierge class (being special and all) and the h'ors deuvres our steward will deliver daily -- just went under Verszanno narrows lovely the lights, and before our view of not only Manhattan as the dark set in and the fairy lights illumenef but of the statue of liberty in the foreground and, yes, Jersey City looking none too shabby. Something profound in that but I'm not yet sure what. Birthplace blah blah.
We are knockdown tired but still can appreciate this incredible ship--its newness foremost -- as we toured it earlier. Though the wait to storm the gates as it were seemed long we had the advantage of being first to board-- everyone enjoying the joke of the aggressive woman in the gray hat who rushed to be first leaving her husband behind even though she was a number "4". Now a legend.
Next we discover the wonders of the luncheon buffet with its separate islands of food- neat idea-- without crowds and a half litter of wine for $7 per 2 -- perfect for lunch.
Now just a ribbon of lights out there as we drain the last drop of champs and ready for our evening obligations, dinner and the show. CNN says Gingritch leading in the primary; we'll probably need more to drink.
Verdict on dinner -- nice table for 2 on sea window [Request table 578]. Bob: " with the exception of the meat [prime rib] which was good, I'd say the food was mediocre." Agreed. May look decorative, but often overly spiced or poorly mixed as to sauces -- anyway our experience suggests scant opportunity for omprovemt when that's the set bar. Hope wrong.
Find center seats- terribly early - for 9pm show. Mafia cruise director
-/ I know the type- vaudeville-heavy show. We'll see.
TUESDAY, DEC. 13.
Sleep the whole night through--extraordinary--9 + hours--comfortable bed, the gentle rolling of the waves, the quiet, we are the last cabin in the hall, forward, so there is no outside noise. Yippee, plus as Bob reminds, we were exhausted.
Reuel's key lost-replaced. Pools too small for laps, we take to the treadmills which look out at the ocean. Some fruit from the fruit bowl suffices for breakfast -- such commendable abstemiousness rarely to be repeated.
In line for lunch, our contempoaroes ahead agreeing they're happily spending their children's inheritance. "They're in their 40's and self- sufficient, thank God."
Bob beats the famous scourge-of-dining lady to a deuce by the window and we celebrate the victory with a martini and a glass of wine.
Table. 518. Go for it. R. Leek potato soup ok. Scampi shrimp. Good. R&B butter pecan ice-cream-nice. B. Appetizer. Fruit and (liked) chock full of nuts datebread. Caramelized flank steak. Ok. Grilled tomato quite good.
I don't know what did it bit the chaise on the top deck was sublimely comfortable and only the lure of the wine tasting at 2:30 draws me away from my open air delightful mid-afternoon nap. As to that tasting, the wine cellar chief informative, a buzz was achieved, noticed this certainly anomalous young gay couple, one with a hair style right out
of fashion week, Well a cruise is a cruise even if you're the only ones of your type aboard. Noah and his ark and all--but if this were the ark there'd be a he'll of a lot of Rissian expats seeking protection from the great flood. What's with that? Was Putin promised a percentage of the take? Bob notes that these Russian ladies ought to be on cords for the Thanksgiving parade.
Knock knock. Our steward is bringing us our evening hors deuvres- quel domage.
Formal evening and we decide to skip inaugural Friends of Dorothy to get to dinner-- Bob appetizer antipasto then tangerine soup very good R's shrimp cocktail then capresse salad. R salmon B chicken saltimboca vg. Desert: cherries junilee.
To top it off Bob's premature b'day feting. Staff singing Hap Bday over a lighted choc cake. Neat. Bob's incandescent grinning.
Again nab good orchestra seats for the captain's broadway show(means we get champagne to drink during the dry moments). We take pleasure commenting on the unseemly lengths of dresses on women of a rather certain age. Great people watching notes B as a woman whose cape many faux muskrats died for flutters by.
The "Broadway" show is surprisingly good. These packages move-- the 4 lead singers fine vocals as they do pastiche of A Lloyd Webber musicals. Nine (Nine?), West Side Story, Cabaret, Les Mis, Cats (ok we're a few seasons back here), dancers expert, costumes flashy. Very slick and satisfying. OK I'm suddenly a mid-American fat and happy in a tub, but a cruise on a premium line is a damned relatively fine bargain. Hotel, cuisine, entertainment, transport on the high seas, wowza.
And the whole ship- at least the entertainment decks - is ablaze and buzzing with music and activity which we survey, R shaking hips to the rhythms. Then to our cabin for that lovely Bob's birthday cake awaiting us and to be washed down with the contents of that remaining bottle of Mumm's champagne. What me worry?
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 14.
What will this 2nd day at sea bring?
Well, R first day of stretch and abs classes 7-8. A good idea. . . I think. Jumping on the listing, windy deck has its challenges - but persist!
Some treadmill for toppers. Bob more treadmill yet.
In the Grand Cuvee dining room for Operation Heartbeat tour of the galley. Pick up our comp champagnes- love it - Our server recognizes us from last night and says good morning Sir Robert. Love it. Amazing gallery--we're in groups. Our guide, Victorio of the Tuscan Grill specialty restaurant is charming and informative. The ship serves over 4000 meals a day ( every one a beauty, they claim). Crew mess is constant buffet-- divided into ethnic dishes.@
Lunch- again a widow table- in the Grand Cuvee. Bob loves his appetizer, beef and chicken satay with peanut sauce on a grilled pineapple slice; says its tender which is unusual. Reuel, enjoying his martini, tastes (his favorite mode) and agrees. Bob notes, when we discuss the next activity-- the wine tasting-- that there are so many responsibilities on a cruise. Someone's gotta step up and do it.
Next table looking out our window. "all you see is the water. You'd think you'd see a fish or something. Nothing."
Bob enjoys his turkey pesto (loves pesto anything) panini (his french fries are potato-y; good) Reuel his spaghetti bolognese (has texture -- yummy). Topping it off, Bob's "genuinely curious" pineapple fritter with cream and chocolate sauce and Reuel's simple lo-fat yogurt lychee nut ice-cream - verdict on that, very nice indeed.-
Taking time for respite on our veranda - a lovely word, verr-rann-dahh-- and lovely to enjoy and watch one's now bulbous tummy rise and fall.
,bestir ourselves to go to the show, a male singer personality. Not embarrassing (tho audience sparse for the early show) but not special .ha
THURSDAY, DEC. 15
Wake up and tell Bob of my dream that we know the end of the world has come; we embrace and cry. And then I think if you have to die this way, its best to be on a cruise and watch the sea and setting sun.
We are ready for stretch class at 7. Our dry, "they're building their bicep muscles eating", Brit Instructor has ramped it up this morning-- by cruise end we should be flying from the rafters-- for now I realize I need to do more stretching as daily routine and work on flexibility. He touts the 81 year old Asian woman after the body sculpting class - which bob has opted out of -- for her flexibility - she confesses that this is her 60 th cruise. Wowza.
Its cloudy today in paradise - and i don't use the p word lightly. Oops its raining. We're on the heretofore flawlessColumbus
zBeach on labridee, Haiti .
Good -- rain brief, subsiding. Reuel has already gotten in a swim in the lovely
green Mediterranean water, water danced to the band's constant drum rhythms.
Somewhere nearby there must be terrorizing poverty , crumbled structures and
broken lives, but here it is incredible beauty, green hills overlooking the
cove beaches, and all is perfect as we lie on our chaises under a banyan tree
and sip our piña coladas. Potempkin paradise millions from the parent cruise
company, Royal Canadian, crafted.
This after a lovely breakfast earlier aboard under the caring ministrations of Sam, our server, -- the service on the ship is unflinchingly friendly and properly servile -- sam even brought us fresh fruit unsolicited lest we grow impatient for our omelets -- gives us the requisite energy to relax on this beach - one of many that awaits us on this trip one assumes. Can understand why there are legions of Russians on this trip, must be the wonderful contrast to brutal Russian winters, Bob reminding me that they are probably all fromBrighton Beach
A few swims for Reuel, Bob semi-comitose under his scrubby
Banyan tree, the barbecue buffet and we walk back to the ship past the beach coves and peer out at the other side of the island facing the Atlantic as musicians drum us out.
Now watching the captain and his assistant supervise the leaving from his perch next to our balcony- strategic location indeed. Bob pauses from his martini to tell me to stop typing and look at the breathtaking scenery, the green mountains stretching into the mist.
I'm certainly able to relax on my deck chair after my sweaty Zumba workout - to , incredibly, an x-box avatar instructing the moves. Can't wait to tell Pam, Beth's and my instructor at the Y, that she has been replaced by a cartoon.
Steward brings our our cocktail h'ors deuvres and we ready to see the early show- a comedian who is actually quite funny - especially good at ad libs based on audience with whom he is irreverent ( greatly helped by good luck of waking a woman sleeping through his act, and kissing a rapt
elderly woman sitting in the front row). We catch a bit of his 9pm late show to see if he does the same scripted material -- he does.
Dinner after the show - food as a concept is losing it's allure ( Reuel feeling bloated ). Nevertheless the cherry soup is very good. Our wine steward -- a Macedonian who recognizes us from the last marathon wine tasting -- reveals that he had 3 years of enology in school, some details of Macedonia, and that the massive cohort of Russians aboard are (as Bob guessed) in fact Jews from Brighton Beach, don't speak English and are thus causing grief among the staff who can't wait for the trip to be over. He sells us tickets for tomorrow's champagne tasting. We're suckers for gossip.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16.
Disaster. I awaken at what my iPhone says is :6:20 am but It has not moved the required hour forward and we've missed morning 7 am stretch and abs conditioning (aka wake up and be tortured- um, challenged) so its treadmill workout before shower and late breakfast in anticipation of noon chefs cookoff. This is lots of fun as 2 of the ships chefs compete in a meal preparation- passenger assistants, judges, with exec chef moderating.
Then time for our noon champagne tasting of 6 champagnes and sparklings in the Master Cellar (we're becoming regulars). Someone's gotta do it. Chandon, Pierre Jouver . . . Tiny bubbles.
Surviving quite nicely-- we're working on our sybarites certificate,
we dock in San Juan at 2 and take a pre-walk walk before meeting charming Diego-- young high school teacher- he handles my question about the popularity of PR secessionists as deftly as possible "it's akeays in the news" -- for a 2 1/2 hour walking tour of old San Juan that takes us up to Morro fortress (incredible views over bay and ocean and InterNational Historic Site lawns where a Yanni concert is being prepped. Major deal.) Worthwhile and we feel we've "done"San Juan
(Purrto Rico you lovely island . . .etc.) even though the ship won't leave
until 10. (Watching the captain watch the sea as we embark for other isles
later from our rather special verandah view of the see-thru control station
next door.)
Our steward's coctail hour assortment of h'ors deuvres are particularly fine and welcome after our tour-- the Ham puffed pastry, caviar on cucumber slice, and some sort of rollyp filled with a whipped something (we're debating this one).
Din Din. Reuel's oysters rockerfeler and Bob's chicken liver pate - sublime. And Bob's strawberry soup "remarkable" and Reuel's baked potato (etc.) soup are lovely. We taste one another's choices so that there is verifiable unanimous agreement. Things are looking up in the Celebrity culinary world. Reuel just wanted an ordinary sirloin steak cooked as they say to perfection and Bob's rib eye though cooked Cajun "blackened" is not too spicey - "very good". OK, this meal gets high marks consisting Bob's crepe suzette and R's creamy chocolate cake ("oy") same, says Bob, as his first birthday cake on the 13th which when we pounced on it in our cabin of course was memorable.
Oh dear it started raining after 20 minutes of our wine and cheese (both of which we delightedly enjoying) jazz concert on the lawn (yes the lawn) under the naked sky-- portable lawn seats we fall into. Really neat but it stopped raining in 2 minutes and the musicians (with their electronic equipment) exit apologetically. Well great concept - hope they'll try again. Meanwhile we abscond with our wine bottle, glasses and cheese plate to resume the festivities on our veranda,San Juan
buzzing below us.
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 17. ST. CROIS.
This time up for stretch class and conditioning now with a dumbbell. Bob treadmill. We're taking our time disembarking - as are hundreds others at the breakfast buffet lunes.we have our repast on forward deck - Bob recommends the crisp waffle. all that culinary allure, food winking and whispering sweetnothings, and I mean "sweet", at us.
Off the pier I dance with a
traditionally built lady cop to the strains of the calypso band. We laugh together. Unfettered by a tour, we wander the picturesquely ramshackle town ofFrederickstad , mostly
shuttered. We pass The Church of Signs and Wonders, so the chalkboard says.
A white hippy guy, Henry, rents us an umbrella at a private beachlet in view of the ship - we just walked there - the tour people don't tell you about that, the free pleasures.
Though some rocks and tow at entrance the water is lovely--the toyquoise I remember from 40 years ago -- I don't see any fish, some plankton plants-- where will snorkeling be appropriate? --
(It will only be later, when we have returned to the ship-- after showering and lunch from the buffet
On the forward deck that I realize my wedding band is gone - this follows a rule of life I have learned, when all seems to be going really really well something bad happens. It must have been while swimming against the undertow or scraping at the rocks at the entrance to the bay that it fell off. Or perhaps . . . I excuse myself before the fruit carving demonstration [remarkable feat] to run up to the cabin and search the shower and wash basin -- no luck. I can only hope Bob doesn't notice. Why should 2 people feel a cloud over this wonderful holiday when one person can hide his hand as much as possible.).
There's an intimate (why don't more people attend these things )talk about future trips and one about theSt.
Thomas tour options that we go to. Bob won't realize
that I'll most likely give in and favor his choices for tomorrow most likely
because I'm feeling guilty.
Anyway very pleasant guitar concert (sort of John Denver/ Jim Croce sort of vibe - on the lawn. We take the unquaffed wine back and order room service ( works well as we share club sNdwich, marguerite pizza and decadent desserts, then watch some mediocre movies on tv.
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 19.ST. THOMAS .
Up for stretch and abs 7-8 am. (Allen, the instructor pats me on the back. "Good to see you . You're a good man." probably apologizing for calling me out for not lying on my elbow instead of my forearm, but I'm charmed,) I think Bob skipped his routine but who's counting.
We decide to wing it omSt. Thomas .
Several passes through the downtown shopping- read diamonds and tanzanite (the
difference? I like $10 glttery paste) - we're saved from boredom by Tomothy and
his tpur wrap - how much less his 2 + hpur tpur on "Tim's Tours" bus
than the ship's- he's right - which lures us in- a search of the oldest
synagogue and we're on his bus at noon. Highlight, the ride up the mountain for
"Kodak moment" views and a really delish banana daiquiri.
'Its starsky and hutch. You guys need some bling bling." "know what your wife wants for Christmas?"
Tim's tour bus Leaves at noon.
Sipping our banAna daiquiris
excellent- Brits from Cbester lake district on our open bus bench saying west s.Scotland
scenery not to miss.
Spectacular views. Bob loves the "lumps of islands- kinda likeGreece ."
World traveler that one.
Tim drops us off to walk along gorgeousSaphire Beach
At the ship it's 2:30 and we have some pizza slices. Formal night.
I think: plenitude = plenty food.
Fabulous. Martini bar. Who cares about the six or seven gay couples Sitting at the bar thinking it's FOD (of FDotothy) the martinis are great -- rtje big band sound below in the grand whatever is perfect - we're dressed to our nines some tens some oh well - we agree this experience is special and a cruise of at least 12 days is what's called for.
Show: Excellent, especially the dancers who show skills as acrobats and aerialists.
MONDAY, DECEMBER 19.ST. JOHN 'S, ANTIGUA .
A few minutes late for stretch and conditioning since I awake with a start at 6:50. Gently rolling ship (now pulling intoAntigua )
and comfortable bed produce a very restful sleep.
We lolligag and find ourselves at the back of a jitney with chattering group of Russkeys and a New Jersey couple, he establishing himself as ringleader and interrogator of the driver. This is a poor island (and which isn't) cement huts, outhouses, clotheslines with wash, and chickens. Of course as we approach the beach a bumpy half hour later things get fancier. And only $24 round trip for us both.
The Jollie's Beach attendant asks if we are comfy. $20. I ask how much would it be if we were not comfy. He laughs. We've got our umbrella and "comfy" chaises overlooking gorgeous light green colored water, lush, bumpy hills surrounding this cove. Time for a swim. Perfect temperature. No rocks to trip over and lose rings tho I've none to offer any merciless waters this time.
Back at the ship, repast with our lunch fave -- a 355 ml carafe of wine on the forward deck. The exiting fromAntigua is
dramatic. After the two other liners, our Antigua
neighbors, the NCL Dawn and the Fred. Olsen Bremmmer, leave, we execute a slow
360 to leave forward first and then as the light dims we pass by mounds of
islands lined up into the distance, silhouetted (ah hence the name,
Silhouette?) until we are in the open unfettered Caribbean
seas.
Martinis at "Martinis" where we don't care if gay men meet there.
That Wonderful a Capella group.
Magician on main stage, despite our reluctance - good show, especially his quick change Gracie-Allen like assistant.
Dinner: R. Escargot. Cream of brocili. Steak Au poise and shrimp. B: baked pear; crm of broc. gorgonzola in pastry shell; paparadelle w mushroom purée. Bananas foster.
Extras cost for such a day- $24 for shuttle bus; $20 umbrella and chairs; $11.50 lunch carafe; $25 martinis; $28.50 bottle of wine with dinner. = $109. so budget at least $100 per day on these trips for extras.
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 20. ST.MAARTIN, NA.
Morning stretch and tone workouts with drill Sargent -Alan (actually he was a "leftenant " he corrected) .
Boat transport and $15 umbrella and "beds" as they call them. Lying on St. Maartin's beach, gorgeous of course tho lots of kids probably because one of the six ships docked today is Disney's Magic. Couple of swims, Bob comfy lounging in the shade, and few hours later we walk through town center - lots of shops, many as seems the requirement, purveying diamonds and lesser trinkets. But clearly more substantial than poor oldSt. John's .
In time for late buffet lunch of every food imaginable.
Zumba almost a bust for the one lady participant and me since the fancy smancy xbox machine keeps breaking down- the assistant, who manages to leave, suggesting it is our fault. The music continues however and we dance anyway to Latin beats until sweaty. Old lady watching pronounces us wonderful dancers. I feel heroic because I don't care what anyone thinks - a dancer dances! Besides I'm wearing the Zumba shirt that Beth gave me so there's a certain obligation to that muse.
Only one other for sunset stretch, a woman fromBayonne ,
originally from Jersey City .
Where from? I say Margaret Hague-- now a condo project -- must remember to ask
where she went to school. Alan-very Brit instructor- says he too was born at
Marg Hague - we laughing, skeptical say he must say cawfee to be believed.
Many martinis later, we decide to skip dinner and partake of early turn-in. It's allowed.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21.
Laura , sweet
British girl, is the exercise instructor this AM. Russian woman complains about the temperature, thankfully to no avail. A pushy people.
Tv's working on the treadmill so I stay on intrigued by the true story of one Kate Gosselin. It's come to that I guess.
Breakfast service surprisingly lethargic this morning and Bob, coffeeless for too long, is plunged into a bad bad mood.
After this morning's shopping fix- all those beckoning shops, purchasing lovely beaded bracelets for relatives, Reuel to a lecture about "is there other life in the universe" (answer-- probably; we can't know yet with our limited resources/technology - good lecture; I feel improved) and Bob to read in the library.
Next Reuel to the theatre for meeting ship's senior officers including the captain. Very informative, especially on crew HR and navigation.
Readying for our command invite for Captain's Party -- repeat offenders -- huge press of passengers awaiting entrance @ 12:30 but are we ever suckers for free champagne, many glasses of which we quaf in the incredible panoramic view sky lounge -/ big band, the aca pella quartet, a few speeches and voila. Bob says he's having a perfectly lovely time so who's to argue. We've determined that this is our 10th cruise together. (Everyone knows Reuel is an Old veteran of cruises as the paid entertainment [ahem 40 years ago] but what is a genuine cruise without my Bob). Only our 2nd on Celebrity though, 12? years ago on the then new and fabulous Mercury -- which has long since been sold to god knows what. It did have a thelasotherapy pool which up-to-minute Silliuhette doesn't. Shame.
After all this hard work, Reading and napping in our stateroom in hours before cocktails where all is pleasantly, perhaps bizarrely, familiar, the dancing filipino server in his lighted Santa Claus hat, then there's the multiple-poring server, ya had to be there.
Guests don't know how to dress tonight (not designated as formal) -- Bob notes stately woman passing by with white stole over her black shieth gown followed by a Russky babushka decidedly downmarket - . . . "and her maid Maritska", I comment. Giggles.
We assume position at bar above theatre - ahem - to be positioned with martinis for the main show, one Karen Grainger, an impressionist whom Reuel thinks is quite good- spot on Cher (although her speaking Cher sounds like Carol Channing), Tini Turner, expected Streisand, even Bee Gees and Frankie Valli. Bob not enamored.
Happily tipsy and determined to replicate our domestic domesticity, we head to our cabin for room service cheeseburgers and mini-fridge wine.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22.
Morning exercise classes and treadmill followed by enormous buffet breakfast and Zumba exercise class with live instructor this time (the sort of brittle British babe). Pop in to hear Captain Pagonis's navigation lecture- actually interesting - how the bridge works, weather conditions through the trip and projected, his medivac evacuation experience in cooperation with the Navy.
There is no lunch in the main dining room today we discover. Instead it's a giant brunch. Done to the nines. Ice sculptures. Stations of exotica. People grab piles of shrimp. Guests clump with like-minded others (we included) and happily cast derisive remarks about the merciless and pushy bands of food hoarders. Mostly them Russkys. One wag in line utters "Oh dear, the Russian delegation arrives." quite an array of plenitude though.
Very innocently lying out on Solstice Deck TIP: choose this highest deck for sunning. A ball comes flying from the court below and nearly hits me. A woman nearby says to her husband in the necessary Russian accent, "Lucky the ball didn't land in the water" or on me I think. Bob joins me for a few minutes before proceeding to do some walking around but he identifies theJersey City woman across
from us as lying next to another lesbian-appearing woman, I knew I liked her.
And I told her earlier that "my partner" was associate dean at St.
Peter's (we'd been discussing the college and she knew my former home was now
college offices). Small and wondrous world.
Formal night. Head down to Martini bar to see gay boys in their sartorial
best. Not to mention a coupla.
At dinner, Reuel jokes that he has 1 mushroom less than bob in my vol au vent. Server with consternation brings huge plate of mushrooms. Wow. Ok this service thing is big time major special. Hey it's lobster and steak (tornados Rossini forBob).
10:45 is Showtome, perhaps too late for us because I am definitely nodding. However the Cirque du Soleil manqué show is not our cup of tea however well the acrobats perform. Pretentious concept in the original doesn't improve in abbreviated copy.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 23.
Time set back 1 hour.
It's of course Bob's birthday and he receives his birthday poem with grace as we head up to the gym for our disparate and various exercises.
In search of a poetry reading (which never occurred as far as can be determined) I discover the joys of the Sky lounge with its incredibly comfortable chaises on which to lie and read and watch the roiling sea through floor to ceiling windows. Interrupt to join Bob at a cooking lecture with the very funny comedy duo of the exec chef and his Frmch pastry chef; then back to the sky lounge in time to hear the captain's noon report - we're 200 miles fromCape Haterras Bayonne .
12 foot waves. Conditions will improve At about 6 pm- when we're scheduled for
Bob's bday dinner at 6:30. We are cautioned to hold on to the handrails and
avoid high heels. Noted el Capitan. He says his farewells, how much he and crew
enjoyed us over the 3500 miles of our trip.
Lunch is at Bistro on 5, a specialty crepe restaurant. Me: pear soup and a Mediterranean crepe: Bob. Irish soup (w lamb) and a Bufallo crepe).
Comic duo of dessert chef and exec chef doing demo diverts. I take a Zumba-"style" exercise class and we ready for the evening, the specialty restaurant Murano - wow veddy fancy service (no fewer than 6 serving types attended us and tho the frogs GRAS was not impressive to our palates it was definitely the idea of the thing. Bob loved his 3 petite filets; Reuel's lobster was prepared at tableside-- flambé and all -- excellent. (pics available). Problem was we had had food up to here at this valedictory point in the cruise and we struggled - manfully - with our delicious flight of desserts and had to have Bob's b'day cake sent to the cabin - hope steward enjoys it. TIP. Do Murano early on - drop two bills and have the 5 course wine-pairing selection.
Custom holiday production show - leggy dancers sashaying curvaceously to Santa Babies - incredible girl aerialist swinging to the Coming of Christ or Jingle Bells - well you get the idea.
And then Bob expertly packing while Reuel lounges (well he didn't want my help).
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 24. NYC.
Disembarkation. we choose xpress everything, xpress breakfast (great idea), and fast exit with our own bags. Too fast one might say. (Immigration takes 30 seconds). Taxi ride ($84 plus Christmas tip = $100) and Choi, the mgr, returns my call just as we arrive at 8:25 am at 560 W 43rd - a luxe hirise in heart of warehousey block. So we wait in the lobby.
Choi. Arrives breathless.
Nice little apt. Fabulous view. 2nd floor great exercise space w equipment, terrific lap pool, guest spaces. Provisioning at Food Emporium $150. Booze at liquor store $100. Appropriate ratio.
Tkts booth for Porgy and Bess matinee. Pigalle on 8th - nervous about the time. Martini/ chard. Burger/ croque Monsieur - nervous about time. But food shows up quickly. After the cruise there needs to be some adaptation to the pulsating rhythms of NYC.
Saturday, December 24. 2 pm. Richard Rodgers Theatre.
GERSHWINS PORGY AND BESS.
First preview, Dec. 17. Opens Jan. 12.
Audra MacDonald is superb, voice, acting, at one point literally taking my breath away, I think it was in duet Bess You Is . . . But the production lacks something, what, a consistency. Energy? I don't think I minded the abbreviating of the libretto. Biggest flaw is Porgy, who doesn't seem believable, vocally not up to it either. As Times had it, Crown much better. Accustomed to hearing full orchestral, operatic rnditions of this classic- not present here. Nevertheless there's that score, MacDonald, some supporting roles and that's enough thank you. Great seats (at. $75 each! few years back that was full price, now on 2-fers) - 13th row on the aisle- British woman next seat flirting with me. I tell her she looks like Grreer Garson, so I suppose I am flirting with her. Bob dislikes P & G to begin with so dislikes this production. I'm glad to have seen it, thought it was a hot ticket though empty seats - but it is a Christmas eve matinee after all.
We walk up toRockerfeller
Center
Home - how easily. Our temporary lodgings become "home" -- that great pano view of harbor at night and skyscrapers from this 24th floor perch - helpings of pate on crackers and a couple of martinis - and sound sleepfulness occurs.
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 25. CHRISTMAS DAY.
Wow. Alll day in our apartment. I don't know when I've (we've) ever been so delightfully lethargic. Morning breakfast in accompanied by 2 bottles of wine indoors (the evidence is overwhelming your honor) and with roast beef wrap lunch. Much napping. But a day of old Christmas sitcoms (we don't get this priceless cable network out west) such as, Burns and Allen (hunky son ronnie was adopted), Farher Knows Best, Designing Wonen, KirstyAlley's show which failed probably because it was wonderful and too racy and watching the NCL Gem depart from our perch above the city and river.
And Sybyl Shepards show (probably a good thing we didn't book her for The Villa) until we must finally emerge from this NYC cocoon to see Follies.
FOLLIES. Sunday, December 25. Marquis Theatre.Bernadette Peters, Jan Maxwell, Danny Burstein, Ron Raines, Elaine Paige.
Rear orchestra center, not bad. TDF membeer tickets. Theatre shrouded, sounds of wind suggesting abandonment. Distant applause. Nice touch.
Man next to me says he walked out ofWashington
production. After intermission he. waxes rhapsodic about the extraordinary
transformation since Washington .
For me it is the Almost perfect realization of Sondheim/Lapine's genius musical
about regret, the ghosts of the past within a grandiose theatrical metaphor -
one boffo number after another. Alone Worth coming to New York for.
Afterward We pass the restaurants bustling at 10pm to our repast of sandwich wraps from Food Emporium.
MONDAY, DECEMBER 26.
Discovering the pleasures of the 2nd Floor, in this morning's instance the lap pool, which I swim for 45 minutes - cleansing some sins thusly.
After breakfast at home, we venture out (there was some doubt that we could do this) first checking out restaurants in the neighb for the ladies' visit tomorrow (I email to reserve tickets--$112 for 4 for Love, Loss and ... Thru TDF).
Wind up, naturally, at TDF booth and get matinee tickets for Seminar, which leaves us enough time for lunch at Chelsea Grill - an old favorite. Martini, Chardonnay, burgers and 45 minutes afterward to curtain. Fine.
Usher ladies scoot us over so that we are now center on the 2nd row. I have a feeling we've seen this play before, the tyrannical teacher and ambivalent acolytes. However holds attention, moments of clever humor, complications, such as bed swapping. Acting superb. Rickman as the great writer teacher takes sonorous center stage. The 4 students (Hamish Linklatter's name gives him an edge) are superb. I note that not sure how I feel about an audience not one of whom has less than a Master's degree. Not that much real revelation about writing even though that's the ostensible subject. Worth seeing though (though a play 2-fer for $74 each is a bit much - what's happened to ticket prices
---------------------------------------------------------------
PRIVATE LIVES, MONDAY, Dec. 26. 8pm. Music Box. Starring Kim Catrelll. Closes Dec.31.
Terribly enjoyable classic, though this is not the definitive production. Played we'll for laughs, but does not have quite the reality and the style we've seen in other productions of PL.
I'd forgotten that the 2nd act turns Strangely nihilistic - these people are bored. One wonders that these Coward plays lost currency in the austerity of the post war - how do we see this now against the backdrop of our own economic pain, these n'erdowelll aristocrats pleading the doctrine of self indulgence. Catrell emerges as a talented comedienne. Some tightly directed slapstick in the 3rd act. Amusing but not entirely satisfying evening. "Someday I'll find you" replays in the head.
We shop for champs and goodies. Bob rustles up cheese and chicken strips. And so, good night.
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 27.
I awake and think I'm on the ship. Same sort of harbor view from the bed. Bigger room says Bob. Nice to lie here sort of entwined as we are. Holidays good for that kind of thing.
At swim discover that woman I think is homeless (lying on chaise when I enter w blanket, looks like unsmiling Ann Frank) is actually the lifeguard. Posh place.
We take a pre-relatives-visit walk. No standing room available this week for Hugh Jackman's show. Stop at Bryant Park ( now satisfactorily commercial) and into NY Public Libe - lots of exhibits, tourist-worthy. View the Lord and Taylor windows. Reconnoiter possible lunch restaurants.
Dorothy and Nancy arrive precisely at 12:30. Champs toasts and exchange of presents.Nancy
gets How. To Train A Jewish Dog which we bought for her last Aug when we
visited Jewish museum in San Fran. They both get carribbean bracelets in Silken
pouches (purchased on ship) . D presents us with cornucopia of gifts, much
foodstuffs and vino. Then off To lunch at 44X (44th at 10th) staffed by hunky
waiters wearing their trademark Heaven and Hell tshirts. Good sandwiches w the
wine. Bob takes home most of his delish macaroni and cheese. Expected rain has
started,
Née decamp to luxe lounge on 2nd floor and while away time pleasantly until ready for play up the street.
Tuesday, December 27. LOVE, LOSS. AND WHAT I WORE. Westside Theatre..43rd Street . TDF
members.
Perfect for our guests, funny readings- vagina monologues style- sometimes poignant anecdotes about women's clothing. 5 talented women including, this rotation, Loretta Swit and Daisy Egan. I especially like the one about the purse.
D & N choose to walk to Penn Station in the (fortunately lightening) rain. A good day.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 28.
5:30 cocktails. I reprimand Bob for keeping local news on - all that sadness, personal tragedies intruding on our holiday. Sounds insensitive and selfish but, hey, I understand how a twist of bad fortune can ruin everything, so . . . Be prepared to change the goddamn channel! Watching Paula Dean now. That's the idea.
Another good day. Early swim - this time with add- on of stretching - number of hunks in the gym - may consider renting this place again. Smallest we've rented but great views, fairly central to theatre district - our natural epicenter - and this fabulous lounge, gym, pool. And now discovery - Dorothy found in the ladies - steam and sauna rooms in the men's.
We walk to57th St.
-- stopping off at Thalia for lunch - a hightop by the window. The $ 16.95 2
course special, polenta and mushroom fricassee appetizer and B. Turkey
sandwich, R spaghetti - yummy comfort with our drinks.
LYSISTRATA JONES at the Walter Kerron 48th pretty theatre. This musical, almost a parody of rock musicals, except it isn't . . . a parody. Fragile premise. Contempo college. Cheerleaders under leadership of Captain LYSISTRATA -- who played Emma wonderfully at the Old Globe -- decide to withhold favors if basketball team boyfriends don't win games. Merriment ensues. However, despite that superficial and confused plot,the cast is young, attractive, talented. The choreoggraphy is stupendous and the young audience loved the show
and why not.
Ai yai yai, wind and chill pick up and so do the crowds as we attempt to pick up tickets for the evening's show. Almost can't move until respite of home and aforementioned cocktails. Top Chef! Well at least it's not family of 10 immolated in
December 28, ON A CLEAR DAY.
St. James
Theatre 44th St.
On ticket line eariier, I'm asked about the show. I say mixed reviews, terrific music, good cast. They buy tickets; I don't know whether to feel guilty. Actually the audience was mixed. We saw people walking out after the first act ( which Bob pronounced "lifeless"), second act has the four or so familiar songs and more action. Some audience wildly cheering at curtain call. Timeout saying they made a troubled play into a mess. Well, over-dabbled. Got the gays in with the gay patient whose past female ego entices Harry Connivk's psychiatrist. Connick and newbie female lead sing wonderfully.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29.
Stretch, swim, sweat, fruit bowl and prep for the day. And there's Wonderful Hugh @ noon, looking like a hassidic rabbi in his black sleek, long overcoat, and black flatbrim hat. Much to unwind over an hour of champs.
Then to the Westside steakhouse around the corner for light lunch. We enthuse about ourCaribbean cruise, Hugh adds
historical and geographical insights since he's an expert on the area (& on
most things actually). He recommends Havana ,
which he entered illegally. We discuss our respective families - he had to tend
hid alcoholic and sick sister (I remember when we smuggled her into a leather
bar35 years ago) and he recites further adventures of his lover Louie's wife
Nelly (who calls him faggot when he returns from staying over at Hugh's) and
their attempt to kick out ex-daughter-inlaw and kidnap her baby - don't ask. We
talk of the nieces and their tribulations. Of the past year - Bob says it was
tough at first
(referring as I later ascertained to the pressure of our debts countdown to relieving statute of limitations expiration). Hugging goodbye, we look forward to an even better year.
After a COLD walk to and from H&M - yielding no booty alas -- this is not the uptown flagship -- we fight the crowds at Times Square and make it intact home, evening playless, for drinks and pizza - very cocoonesque while New York winks beguilingly below. (That great river and skyscraper view).
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 30.
Certainly have our morning routine. Discovering schlock tv - Rahel Ray, Kelly without Regis (funny bits) after stretch, swim in that gorgeous pool, and sweat (I set off the alarm in my quest for high sauna temperatures and beat hasty retreat). Just a toasted bagel for breakfast -- gotta get into training for Jean Georges.
Looking natty, we trudge uptown for our noon reservation at JG's Nougatine (less formal than the adjacent JG and we wanted to try that - JG in whatever incarnation, we decide, will be a yearly NYC event). and the $32 3 course prix fixe. $38 2008 bottle of Domaine de la Janasse from theRhone Valley
We feel we deserve this after a year of pressure and we resolve to face these former lions down and reveal them as the street kitties they are. Begone. No more noisome calls.
One and a half hour for lunch- that's the way it should be, the weather being comparatively balmy
(in the fifties!) We walk to theTime
Warner Center
We wander intoCentral Park and then down 72nd Street ,
reminiscing. Reuel remembering seeing Leonard Berstein here wandering down the
street with his black trick from the Penny
Bar Champagne at 4.
MISS ABAGAIL'S GUIDE TO LOVE, MATING AND. .
We didn 't expect much from this TDF cheapie in the neighb and that's what we got. Christine Pedi substituting for the Miss Abagail who got the positive notices - a former child star. This one just didn't get the camp possibilities that her love-lorn foil, Pacp, did /- staring treacherously, for ex, at some audience member he deems a rival. The play is interractive not a favorite with me, tho how audience members respond to instructions onststage has some fascination. Interesting, zany premise undermined by poor pacing and poor approach to the pivotal role. Oh well, it was cheap. We expect that previous night's performance--for which I'd originally signed up, was called for lack of audience or tentativeness on execution. Nevertheless we weren't able to round out this theatrical smorgasbord with "serous fare" like the Athol Fugard with Rpsemary Harris or Chinglish in Mandarin and English (bragging rights with that). Checkov's Cherry Orchard and Wit with Cynthia Nixon unavailable ( as was High JACKMAN - the breaks. But we managed to arrange an interesting program, that fabulous FOLLIES, controversial PORGY with Incandescent Audra MacDonald, SEMINAR nice interactions, revelations, bravura acting, nice to see Rockman in a tailor made role, LYSISTRATA energetic, pretty to watch, despite puerile premise, and dosasterous experiment, CLEAR DAY, despite good singing by the leads.
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 31.
Pool doesn't open until 10, so stretching and treadmill
Have to do.
11:30 we're at 44X10 again for Brunch, which is disappointing- Bob's French toast Is sweet having been drenched in syrup. My herbed eggs unappealing but the grits bathed in butter are yummy.
Go Airlink shuttle arrives at 1 and gets us toNewark efficiently // 24 hr confirmation gets
us our aisles across back // all accomplished with Mr. iPhone web.
Ambien helps to sleep for first half of flight mercifully.
Pilot announces that visibility issues mean we'll either force a landing ( he confesses he doesn't like to be told what to do -- oops) or we will land inOntario . Next
announcement, LA os the target. That'd be a neat way to start the New Year -
expect the unexpected! Bump. We're the only plane to make it in in the fog.
Good metaphor -- seeking them-- for an impending adventurous year, pursued with
courage and individuality . . . Through the fog.
However, our intrepid pilot, only one as it turns out, lands us in San Doego -- good omen -- and there are Beth with Judy to pick us up. Champs with them at home -- Home -- and we usher in the new year, full of hope, having ended it rather indolently but wonderfully nevertheless.
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CRUISE PROS AND CONS
PROS
CABIN
Modern bathroom, eg
Glass sliders on shower
Flat screen tv with English channels and movies
CONS
CABIN
Need More hooks for hanging
Need armchair for reading
Need electric outlet by bed for charging iPhone while reading
More comfortable sofa
More storage cabinets
Sent from my iPhone=
SUNDAY, Dec. 11
It's 7:15 and Don is knocking at our door, wonderfully ready to take us to the airport. 9:35 flight--24 hours after Beth knocked on our door—so nice to have these good angel enablers—to take Reuel to Nia and Zumba dance classes--gotta be limber for the long overnight flight.
Terribly early so we breeze through the search/Interrogation--we're "Travel Professionals" to quote the rental car ad-- and settle into a Carl Juniors (a terminally {joke} deficient selection of food purveyors on evidence--McDonald's, Pizza Kitchen) with a cab and a chard. The start of journeys are always anxiety promoting, I guess angst lies in the making of connections--our sandwiches are encased in plastic containers-- though so far so good. Our server does us the great courtesy of checking our I.d.'s in keeping with the atmosphere of surveillance and caution that pervades this portal to something, somewhere else.
And then the huddled masses yearning to board, pressing toward the gate, a motley group, the Night travelers--all facing inevitable sleeplessness--2 tots look especially baleful. They know.
Ambien works it's magic spell ... up to a point--2 hours of smooze leaving three wakeful ones to go. We've a friend who pays $15K. to fly 1st class--in that instance, I'd force myself to stay awake and my heartrate to beat faster. I write This in the lav, more comfortable than the seat - albeit a coveted aisle one across from Bob's ("travel professional" planning). And now to stand a bit.
Funny I resume reading my ebook, PD James CHILDREN OF MEN, an apocalyptic novel in which the doomed protagonist writes his daily diary. Somehow appropriate but perhaps not the best way to start a journey, especially one designed to be frivolous. Hopping islands like touristic jackrabbits seeking new exotic pleasures. Assuring the apocalypse will come that is. Isn't our 1st stop Haiiti where the apocalypse rehearsed its role with spot-on precision after all? How does a tourist comport himself in such dire circumstance? Scuba dive through the rubble? Or rationalize that his tourist dollars will do some good? Getting ahead of myself now. "Here he sat and listlessly turned over the pages of his diary where he had recorded each day of his travels joyouslessly, meticulously." Well my preoccupation is not joyless. It is not! "This was a journal of escape, not a pilgrimage in search of forgotten sensations." come to think of it, I've been to these places in the prime of my youth--will the recollections evoke meaning? How of the present will the experience be? The diary will surely learn, and perhaps joyfully.
Everything's working. Susan, the celebrity transport coordinator, clearly fighting her sleepiness, greets us at the baggage terminal and escorts us onto the train to terminal B where we discover the inevitable food court and Wendy's egg and bacon melts. An hour has past and it's only 6:30 in the morning, only one panhandler--miraculously succeeding with one lone woman--gradually the court fills up, awakening from it's slumber as we wait . . . Wait.
Finally the helpful Susan hands us off to the garrulous fat Charlie with pronounced
Bemoans the haze preventing greater vistas.
Our being very early at the terminal causes some confusion but in fairly short order we go through the maizes with our docuents, encounter the one clerk who seems to never have done this before and after tutorials from her neighboring clerk- and a stopoff to enquire about the insanely expensive alcohol packages) we await our shuttle as we watch the other oldsters (we recognize the familiar demographic) enter the waiting/holding pen.
We're sailing! Bob finishes unpacking the suitcase we were fearful they wouldn't deliver because of the vodka we'd packed therein. Free at last! Fooled 'em. Only NCL cruiselines were hardasses about contraband. this evening we are quaffing to the tune of the incompatable setting one of the 2 comp bottles of champagne we discovered in our cabin, courtesy Amex platinum and Celebrity cons cierge class (being special and all) and the h'ors deuvres our steward will deliver daily -- just went under Verszanno narrows lovely the lights, and before our view of not only Manhattan as the dark set in and the fairy lights illumenef but of the statue of liberty in the foreground and, yes, Jersey City looking none too shabby. Something profound in that but I'm not yet sure what. Birthplace blah blah.
We are knockdown tired but still can appreciate this incredible ship--its newness foremost -- as we toured it earlier. Though the wait to storm the gates as it were seemed long we had the advantage of being first to board-- everyone enjoying the joke of the aggressive woman in the gray hat who rushed to be first leaving her husband behind even though she was a number "4". Now a legend.
Next we discover the wonders of the luncheon buffet with its separate islands of food- neat idea-- without crowds and a half litter of wine for $7 per 2 -- perfect for lunch.
Now just a ribbon of lights out there as we drain the last drop of champs and ready for our evening obligations, dinner and the show. CNN says Gingritch leading in the primary; we'll probably need more to drink.
Verdict on dinner -- nice table for 2 on sea window [Request table 578]. Bob: " with the exception of the meat [prime rib] which was good, I'd say the food was mediocre." Agreed. May look decorative, but often overly spiced or poorly mixed as to sauces -- anyway our experience suggests scant opportunity for omprovemt when that's the set bar. Hope wrong.
Find center seats- terribly early - for 9pm show. Mafia cruise director
-/ I know the type- vaudeville-heavy show. We'll see.
TUESDAY, DEC. 13.
Sleep the whole night through--extraordinary--9 + hours--comfortable bed, the gentle rolling of the waves, the quiet, we are the last cabin in the hall, forward, so there is no outside noise. Yippee, plus as Bob reminds, we were exhausted.
Reuel's key lost-replaced. Pools too small for laps, we take to the treadmills which look out at the ocean. Some fruit from the fruit bowl suffices for breakfast -- such commendable abstemiousness rarely to be repeated.
In line for lunch, our contempoaroes ahead agreeing they're happily spending their children's inheritance. "They're in their 40's and self- sufficient, thank God."
Bob beats the famous scourge-of-dining lady to a deuce by the window and we celebrate the victory with a martini and a glass of wine.
Table. 518. Go for it. R. Leek potato soup ok. Scampi shrimp. Good. R&B butter pecan ice-cream-nice. B. Appetizer. Fruit and (liked) chock full of nuts datebread. Caramelized flank steak. Ok. Grilled tomato quite good.
I don't know what did it bit the chaise on the top deck was sublimely comfortable and only the lure of the wine tasting at 2:30 draws me away from my open air delightful mid-afternoon nap. As to that tasting, the wine cellar chief informative, a buzz was achieved, noticed this certainly anomalous young gay couple, one with a hair style right out
of fashion week, Well a cruise is a cruise even if you're the only ones of your type aboard. Noah and his ark and all--but if this were the ark there'd be a he'll of a lot of Rissian expats seeking protection from the great flood. What's with that? Was Putin promised a percentage of the take? Bob notes that these Russian ladies ought to be on cords for the Thanksgiving parade.
Knock knock. Our steward is bringing us our evening hors deuvres- quel domage.
Formal evening and we decide to skip inaugural Friends of Dorothy to get to dinner-- Bob appetizer antipasto then tangerine soup very good R's shrimp cocktail then capresse salad. R salmon B chicken saltimboca vg. Desert: cherries junilee.
To top it off Bob's premature b'day feting. Staff singing Hap Bday over a lighted choc cake. Neat. Bob's incandescent grinning.
Again nab good orchestra seats for the captain's broadway show(means we get champagne to drink during the dry moments). We take pleasure commenting on the unseemly lengths of dresses on women of a rather certain age. Great people watching notes B as a woman whose cape many faux muskrats died for flutters by.
The "Broadway" show is surprisingly good. These packages move-- the 4 lead singers fine vocals as they do pastiche of A Lloyd Webber musicals. Nine (Nine?), West Side Story, Cabaret, Les Mis, Cats (ok we're a few seasons back here), dancers expert, costumes flashy. Very slick and satisfying. OK I'm suddenly a mid-American fat and happy in a tub, but a cruise on a premium line is a damned relatively fine bargain. Hotel, cuisine, entertainment, transport on the high seas, wowza.
And the whole ship- at least the entertainment decks - is ablaze and buzzing with music and activity which we survey, R shaking hips to the rhythms. Then to our cabin for that lovely Bob's birthday cake awaiting us and to be washed down with the contents of that remaining bottle of Mumm's champagne. What me worry?
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 14.
What will this 2nd day at sea bring?
Well, R first day of stretch and abs classes 7-8. A good idea. . . I think. Jumping on the listing, windy deck has its challenges - but persist!
Some treadmill for toppers. Bob more treadmill yet.
In the Grand Cuvee dining room for Operation Heartbeat tour of the galley. Pick up our comp champagnes- love it - Our server recognizes us from last night and says good morning Sir Robert. Love it. Amazing gallery--we're in groups. Our guide, Victorio of the Tuscan Grill specialty restaurant is charming and informative. The ship serves over 4000 meals a day ( every one a beauty, they claim). Crew mess is constant buffet-- divided into ethnic dishes.@
Lunch- again a widow table- in the Grand Cuvee. Bob loves his appetizer, beef and chicken satay with peanut sauce on a grilled pineapple slice; says its tender which is unusual. Reuel, enjoying his martini, tastes (his favorite mode) and agrees. Bob notes, when we discuss the next activity-- the wine tasting-- that there are so many responsibilities on a cruise. Someone's gotta step up and do it.
Next table looking out our window. "all you see is the water. You'd think you'd see a fish or something. Nothing."
Bob enjoys his turkey pesto (loves pesto anything) panini (his french fries are potato-y; good) Reuel his spaghetti bolognese (has texture -- yummy). Topping it off, Bob's "genuinely curious" pineapple fritter with cream and chocolate sauce and Reuel's simple lo-fat yogurt lychee nut ice-cream - verdict on that, very nice indeed.-
Taking time for respite on our veranda - a lovely word, verr-rann-dahh-- and lovely to enjoy and watch one's now bulbous tummy rise and fall.
,bestir ourselves to go to the show, a male singer personality. Not embarrassing (tho audience sparse for the early show) but not special .ha
THURSDAY, DEC. 15
Wake up and tell Bob of my dream that we know the end of the world has come; we embrace and cry. And then I think if you have to die this way, its best to be on a cruise and watch the sea and setting sun.
We are ready for stretch class at 7. Our dry, "they're building their bicep muscles eating", Brit Instructor has ramped it up this morning-- by cruise end we should be flying from the rafters-- for now I realize I need to do more stretching as daily routine and work on flexibility. He touts the 81 year old Asian woman after the body sculpting class - which bob has opted out of -- for her flexibility - she confesses that this is her 60 th cruise. Wowza.
Its cloudy today in paradise - and i don't use the p word lightly. Oops its raining. We're on the heretofore flawless
This after a lovely breakfast earlier aboard under the caring ministrations of Sam, our server, -- the service on the ship is unflinchingly friendly and properly servile -- sam even brought us fresh fruit unsolicited lest we grow impatient for our omelets -- gives us the requisite energy to relax on this beach - one of many that awaits us on this trip one assumes. Can understand why there are legions of Russians on this trip, must be the wonderful contrast to brutal Russian winters, Bob reminding me that they are probably all from
A few swims for Reuel, Bob semi-comitose under his scrubby
Banyan tree, the barbecue buffet and we walk back to the ship past the beach coves and peer out at the other side of the island facing the Atlantic as musicians drum us out.
Now watching the captain and his assistant supervise the leaving from his perch next to our balcony- strategic location indeed. Bob pauses from his martini to tell me to stop typing and look at the breathtaking scenery, the green mountains stretching into the mist.
I'm certainly able to relax on my deck chair after my sweaty Zumba workout - to , incredibly, an x-box avatar instructing the moves. Can't wait to tell Pam, Beth's and my instructor at the Y, that she has been replaced by a cartoon.
Steward brings our our cocktail h'ors deuvres and we ready to see the early show- a comedian who is actually quite funny - especially good at ad libs based on audience with whom he is irreverent ( greatly helped by good luck of waking a woman sleeping through his act, and kissing a rapt
elderly woman sitting in the front row). We catch a bit of his 9pm late show to see if he does the same scripted material -- he does.
Dinner after the show - food as a concept is losing it's allure ( Reuel feeling bloated ). Nevertheless the cherry soup is very good. Our wine steward -- a Macedonian who recognizes us from the last marathon wine tasting -- reveals that he had 3 years of enology in school, some details of Macedonia, and that the massive cohort of Russians aboard are (as Bob guessed) in fact Jews from Brighton Beach, don't speak English and are thus causing grief among the staff who can't wait for the trip to be over. He sells us tickets for tomorrow's champagne tasting. We're suckers for gossip.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16.
Disaster. I awaken at what my iPhone says is :6:20 am but It has not moved the required hour forward and we've missed morning 7 am stretch and abs conditioning (aka wake up and be tortured- um, challenged) so its treadmill workout before shower and late breakfast in anticipation of noon chefs cookoff. This is lots of fun as 2 of the ships chefs compete in a meal preparation- passenger assistants, judges, with exec chef moderating.
Then time for our noon champagne tasting of 6 champagnes and sparklings in the Master Cellar (we're becoming regulars). Someone's gotta do it. Chandon, Pierre Jouver . . . Tiny bubbles.
Surviving quite nicely-- we're working on our sybarites certificate,
we dock in San Juan at 2 and take a pre-walk walk before meeting charming Diego-- young high school teacher- he handles my question about the popularity of PR secessionists as deftly as possible "it's akeays in the news" -- for a 2 1/2 hour walking tour of old San Juan that takes us up to Morro fortress (incredible views over bay and ocean and InterNational Historic Site lawns where a Yanni concert is being prepped. Major deal.) Worthwhile and we feel we've "done"
Our steward's coctail hour assortment of h'ors deuvres are particularly fine and welcome after our tour-- the Ham puffed pastry, caviar on cucumber slice, and some sort of rollyp filled with a whipped something (we're debating this one).
Din Din. Reuel's oysters rockerfeler and Bob's chicken liver pate - sublime. And Bob's strawberry soup "remarkable" and Reuel's baked potato (etc.) soup are lovely. We taste one another's choices so that there is verifiable unanimous agreement. Things are looking up in the Celebrity culinary world. Reuel just wanted an ordinary sirloin steak cooked as they say to perfection and Bob's rib eye though cooked Cajun "blackened" is not too spicey - "very good". OK, this meal gets high marks consisting Bob's crepe suzette and R's creamy chocolate cake ("oy") same, says Bob, as his first birthday cake on the 13th which when we pounced on it in our cabin of course was memorable.
Oh dear it started raining after 20 minutes of our wine and cheese (both of which we delightedly enjoying) jazz concert on the lawn (yes the lawn) under the naked sky-- portable lawn seats we fall into. Really neat but it stopped raining in 2 minutes and the musicians (with their electronic equipment) exit apologetically. Well great concept - hope they'll try again. Meanwhile we abscond with our wine bottle, glasses and cheese plate to resume the festivities on our veranda,
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 17. ST. CROIS.
This time up for stretch class and conditioning now with a dumbbell. Bob treadmill. We're taking our time disembarking - as are hundreds others at the breakfast buffet lunes.we have our repast on forward deck - Bob recommends the crisp waffle. all that culinary allure, food winking and whispering sweetnothings, and I mean "sweet", at us.
Off the pier I dance with a
traditionally built lady cop to the strains of the calypso band. We laugh together. Unfettered by a tour, we wander the picturesquely ramshackle town of
A white hippy guy, Henry, rents us an umbrella at a private beachlet in view of the ship - we just walked there - the tour people don't tell you about that, the free pleasures.
Though some rocks and tow at entrance the water is lovely--the toyquoise I remember from 40 years ago -- I don't see any fish, some plankton plants-- where will snorkeling be appropriate? --
(It will only be later, when we have returned to the ship-- after showering and lunch from the buffet
On the forward deck that I realize my wedding band is gone - this follows a rule of life I have learned, when all seems to be going really really well something bad happens. It must have been while swimming against the undertow or scraping at the rocks at the entrance to the bay that it fell off. Or perhaps . . . I excuse myself before the fruit carving demonstration [remarkable feat] to run up to the cabin and search the shower and wash basin -- no luck. I can only hope Bob doesn't notice. Why should 2 people feel a cloud over this wonderful holiday when one person can hide his hand as much as possible.).
There's an intimate (why don't more people attend these things )talk about future trips and one about the
Anyway very pleasant guitar concert (sort of John Denver/ Jim Croce sort of vibe - on the lawn. We take the unquaffed wine back and order room service ( works well as we share club sNdwich, marguerite pizza and decadent desserts, then watch some mediocre movies on tv.
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 19.
Up for stretch and abs 7-8 am. (Allen, the instructor pats me on the back. "Good to see you . You're a good man." probably apologizing for calling me out for not lying on my elbow instead of my forearm, but I'm charmed,) I think Bob skipped his routine but who's counting.
We decide to wing it om
'Its starsky and hutch. You guys need some bling bling." "know what your wife wants for Christmas?"
Tim's tour bus Leaves at noon.
Sipping our banAna daiquiris
excellent- Brits from Cbester lake district on our open bus bench saying west s.
Spectacular views. Bob loves the "lumps of islands- kinda like
Tim drops us off to walk along gorgeous
At the ship it's 2:30 and we have some pizza slices. Formal night.
I think: plenitude = plenty food.
Fabulous. Martini bar. Who cares about the six or seven gay couples Sitting at the bar thinking it's FOD (of FDotothy) the martinis are great -- rtje big band sound below in the grand whatever is perfect - we're dressed to our nines some tens some oh well - we agree this experience is special and a cruise of at least 12 days is what's called for.
Show: Excellent, especially the dancers who show skills as acrobats and aerialists.
MONDAY, DECEMBER 19.
A few minutes late for stretch and conditioning since I awake with a start at 6:50. Gently rolling ship (now pulling into
We lolligag and find ourselves at the back of a jitney with chattering group of Russkeys and a New Jersey couple, he establishing himself as ringleader and interrogator of the driver. This is a poor island (and which isn't) cement huts, outhouses, clotheslines with wash, and chickens. Of course as we approach the beach a bumpy half hour later things get fancier. And only $24 round trip for us both.
The Jollie's Beach attendant asks if we are comfy. $20. I ask how much would it be if we were not comfy. He laughs. We've got our umbrella and "comfy" chaises overlooking gorgeous light green colored water, lush, bumpy hills surrounding this cove. Time for a swim. Perfect temperature. No rocks to trip over and lose rings tho I've none to offer any merciless waters this time.
Back at the ship, repast with our lunch fave -- a 355 ml carafe of wine on the forward deck. The exiting from
Martinis at "Martinis" where we don't care if gay men meet there.
That Wonderful a Capella group.
Magician on main stage, despite our reluctance - good show, especially his quick change Gracie-Allen like assistant.
Dinner: R. Escargot. Cream of brocili. Steak Au poise and shrimp. B: baked pear; crm of broc. gorgonzola in pastry shell; paparadelle w mushroom purée. Bananas foster.
Extras cost for such a day- $24 for shuttle bus; $20 umbrella and chairs; $11.50 lunch carafe; $25 martinis; $28.50 bottle of wine with dinner. = $109. so budget at least $100 per day on these trips for extras.
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 20. ST.MAARTIN, NA.
Morning stretch and tone workouts with drill Sargent -Alan (actually he was a "leftenant " he corrected) .
Boat transport and $15 umbrella and "beds" as they call them. Lying on St. Maartin's beach, gorgeous of course tho lots of kids probably because one of the six ships docked today is Disney's Magic. Couple of swims, Bob comfy lounging in the shade, and few hours later we walk through town center - lots of shops, many as seems the requirement, purveying diamonds and lesser trinkets. But clearly more substantial than poor old
In time for late buffet lunch of every food imaginable.
Zumba almost a bust for the one lady participant and me since the fancy smancy xbox machine keeps breaking down- the assistant, who manages to leave, suggesting it is our fault. The music continues however and we dance anyway to Latin beats until sweaty. Old lady watching pronounces us wonderful dancers. I feel heroic because I don't care what anyone thinks - a dancer dances! Besides I'm wearing the Zumba shirt that Beth gave me so there's a certain obligation to that muse.
Only one other for sunset stretch, a woman from
Many martinis later, we decide to skip dinner and partake of early turn-in. It's allowed.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 21.
Laura , sweet
British girl, is the exercise instructor this AM. Russian woman complains about the temperature, thankfully to no avail. A pushy people.
Tv's working on the treadmill so I stay on intrigued by the true story of one Kate Gosselin. It's come to that I guess.
Breakfast service surprisingly lethargic this morning and Bob, coffeeless for too long, is plunged into a bad bad mood.
After this morning's shopping fix- all those beckoning shops, purchasing lovely beaded bracelets for relatives, Reuel to a lecture about "is there other life in the universe" (answer-- probably; we can't know yet with our limited resources/technology - good lecture; I feel improved) and Bob to read in the library.
Next Reuel to the theatre for meeting ship's senior officers including the captain. Very informative, especially on crew HR and navigation.
Readying for our command invite for Captain's Party -- repeat offenders -- huge press of passengers awaiting entrance @ 12:30 but are we ever suckers for free champagne, many glasses of which we quaf in the incredible panoramic view sky lounge -/ big band, the aca pella quartet, a few speeches and voila. Bob says he's having a perfectly lovely time so who's to argue. We've determined that this is our 10th cruise together. (Everyone knows Reuel is an Old veteran of cruises as the paid entertainment [ahem 40 years ago] but what is a genuine cruise without my Bob). Only our 2nd on Celebrity though, 12? years ago on the then new and fabulous Mercury -- which has long since been sold to god knows what. It did have a thelasotherapy pool which up-to-minute Silliuhette doesn't. Shame.
After all this hard work, Reading and napping in our stateroom in hours before cocktails where all is pleasantly, perhaps bizarrely, familiar, the dancing filipino server in his lighted Santa Claus hat, then there's the multiple-poring server, ya had to be there.
Guests don't know how to dress tonight (not designated as formal) -- Bob notes stately woman passing by with white stole over her black shieth gown followed by a Russky babushka decidedly downmarket - . . . "and her maid Maritska", I comment. Giggles.
We assume position at bar above theatre - ahem - to be positioned with martinis for the main show, one Karen Grainger, an impressionist whom Reuel thinks is quite good- spot on Cher (although her speaking Cher sounds like Carol Channing), Tini Turner, expected Streisand, even Bee Gees and Frankie Valli. Bob not enamored.
Happily tipsy and determined to replicate our domestic domesticity, we head to our cabin for room service cheeseburgers and mini-fridge wine.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22.
Morning exercise classes and treadmill followed by enormous buffet breakfast and Zumba exercise class with live instructor this time (the sort of brittle British babe). Pop in to hear Captain Pagonis's navigation lecture- actually interesting - how the bridge works, weather conditions through the trip and projected, his medivac evacuation experience in cooperation with the Navy.
There is no lunch in the main dining room today we discover. Instead it's a giant brunch. Done to the nines. Ice sculptures. Stations of exotica. People grab piles of shrimp. Guests clump with like-minded others (we included) and happily cast derisive remarks about the merciless and pushy bands of food hoarders. Mostly them Russkys. One wag in line utters "Oh dear, the Russian delegation arrives." quite an array of plenitude though.
Very innocently lying out on Solstice Deck TIP: choose this highest deck for sunning. A ball comes flying from the court below and nearly hits me. A woman nearby says to her husband in the necessary Russian accent, "Lucky the ball didn't land in the water" or on me I think. Bob joins me for a few minutes before proceeding to do some walking around but he identifies the
Formal night. Head down to Martini bar to see gay boys in their sartorial
best. Not to mention a coupla.
At dinner, Reuel jokes that he has 1 mushroom less than bob in my vol au vent. Server with consternation brings huge plate of mushrooms. Wow. Ok this service thing is big time major special. Hey it's lobster and steak (tornados Rossini forBob).
10:45 is Showtome, perhaps too late for us because I am definitely nodding. However the Cirque du Soleil manqué show is not our cup of tea however well the acrobats perform. Pretentious concept in the original doesn't improve in abbreviated copy.
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 23.
Time set back 1 hour.
It's of course Bob's birthday and he receives his birthday poem with grace as we head up to the gym for our disparate and various exercises.
In search of a poetry reading (which never occurred as far as can be determined) I discover the joys of the Sky lounge with its incredibly comfortable chaises on which to lie and read and watch the roiling sea through floor to ceiling windows. Interrupt to join Bob at a cooking lecture with the very funny comedy duo of the exec chef and his Frmch pastry chef; then back to the sky lounge in time to hear the captain's noon report - we're 200 miles from
Lunch is at Bistro on 5, a specialty crepe restaurant. Me: pear soup and a Mediterranean crepe: Bob. Irish soup (w lamb) and a Bufallo crepe).
Comic duo of dessert chef and exec chef doing demo diverts. I take a Zumba-"style" exercise class and we ready for the evening, the specialty restaurant Murano - wow veddy fancy service (no fewer than 6 serving types attended us and tho the frogs GRAS was not impressive to our palates it was definitely the idea of the thing. Bob loved his 3 petite filets; Reuel's lobster was prepared at tableside-- flambé and all -- excellent. (pics available). Problem was we had had food up to here at this valedictory point in the cruise and we struggled - manfully - with our delicious flight of desserts and had to have Bob's b'day cake sent to the cabin - hope steward enjoys it. TIP. Do Murano early on - drop two bills and have the 5 course wine-pairing selection.
Custom holiday production show - leggy dancers sashaying curvaceously to Santa Babies - incredible girl aerialist swinging to the Coming of Christ or Jingle Bells - well you get the idea.
And then Bob expertly packing while Reuel lounges (well he didn't want my help).
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 24. NYC.
Disembarkation. we choose xpress everything, xpress breakfast (great idea), and fast exit with our own bags. Too fast one might say. (Immigration takes 30 seconds). Taxi ride ($84 plus Christmas tip = $100) and Choi, the mgr, returns my call just as we arrive at 8:25 am at 560 W 43rd - a luxe hirise in heart of warehousey block. So we wait in the lobby.
Choi. Arrives breathless.
Nice little apt. Fabulous view. 2nd floor great exercise space w equipment, terrific lap pool, guest spaces. Provisioning at Food Emporium $150. Booze at liquor store $100. Appropriate ratio.
Tkts booth for Porgy and Bess matinee. Pigalle on 8th - nervous about the time. Martini/ chard. Burger/ croque Monsieur - nervous about time. But food shows up quickly. After the cruise there needs to be some adaptation to the pulsating rhythms of NYC.
Saturday, December 24. 2 pm. Richard Rodgers Theatre.
GERSHWINS PORGY AND BESS.
First preview, Dec. 17. Opens Jan. 12.
Audra MacDonald is superb, voice, acting, at one point literally taking my breath away, I think it was in duet Bess You Is . . . But the production lacks something, what, a consistency. Energy? I don't think I minded the abbreviating of the libretto. Biggest flaw is Porgy, who doesn't seem believable, vocally not up to it either. As Times had it, Crown much better. Accustomed to hearing full orchestral, operatic rnditions of this classic- not present here. Nevertheless there's that score, MacDonald, some supporting roles and that's enough thank you. Great seats (at. $75 each! few years back that was full price, now on 2-fers) - 13th row on the aisle- British woman next seat flirting with me. I tell her she looks like Grreer Garson, so I suppose I am flirting with her. Bob dislikes P & G to begin with so dislikes this production. I'm glad to have seen it, thought it was a hot ticket though empty seats - but it is a Christmas eve matinee after all.
We walk up to
Home - how easily. Our temporary lodgings become "home" -- that great pano view of harbor at night and skyscrapers from this 24th floor perch - helpings of pate on crackers and a couple of martinis - and sound sleepfulness occurs.
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 25. CHRISTMAS DAY.
Wow. Alll day in our apartment. I don't know when I've (we've) ever been so delightfully lethargic. Morning breakfast in accompanied by 2 bottles of wine indoors (the evidence is overwhelming your honor) and with roast beef wrap lunch. Much napping. But a day of old Christmas sitcoms (we don't get this priceless cable network out west) such as, Burns and Allen (hunky son ronnie was adopted), Farher Knows Best, Designing Wonen, KirstyAlley's show which failed probably because it was wonderful and too racy and watching the NCL Gem depart from our perch above the city and river.
And Sybyl Shepards show (probably a good thing we didn't book her for The Villa) until we must finally emerge from this NYC cocoon to see Follies.
FOLLIES. Sunday, December 25. Marquis Theatre.Bernadette Peters, Jan Maxwell, Danny Burstein, Ron Raines, Elaine Paige.
Rear orchestra center, not bad. TDF membeer tickets. Theatre shrouded, sounds of wind suggesting abandonment. Distant applause. Nice touch.
Man next to me says he walked out of
Afterward We pass the restaurants bustling at 10pm to our repast of sandwich wraps from Food Emporium.
MONDAY, DECEMBER 26.
Discovering the pleasures of the 2nd Floor, in this morning's instance the lap pool, which I swim for 45 minutes - cleansing some sins thusly.
After breakfast at home, we venture out (there was some doubt that we could do this) first checking out restaurants in the neighb for the ladies' visit tomorrow (I email to reserve tickets--$112 for 4 for Love, Loss and ... Thru TDF).
Wind up, naturally, at TDF booth and get matinee tickets for Seminar, which leaves us enough time for lunch at Chelsea Grill - an old favorite. Martini, Chardonnay, burgers and 45 minutes afterward to curtain. Fine.
Usher ladies scoot us over so that we are now center on the 2nd row. I have a feeling we've seen this play before, the tyrannical teacher and ambivalent acolytes. However holds attention, moments of clever humor, complications, such as bed swapping. Acting superb. Rickman as the great writer teacher takes sonorous center stage. The 4 students (Hamish Linklatter's name gives him an edge) are superb. I note that not sure how I feel about an audience not one of whom has less than a Master's degree. Not that much real revelation about writing even though that's the ostensible subject. Worth seeing though (though a play 2-fer for $74 each is a bit much - what's happened to ticket prices
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PRIVATE LIVES, MONDAY, Dec. 26. 8pm. Music Box. Starring Kim Catrelll. Closes Dec.31.
Terribly enjoyable classic, though this is not the definitive production. Played we'll for laughs, but does not have quite the reality and the style we've seen in other productions of PL.
I'd forgotten that the 2nd act turns Strangely nihilistic - these people are bored. One wonders that these Coward plays lost currency in the austerity of the post war - how do we see this now against the backdrop of our own economic pain, these n'erdowelll aristocrats pleading the doctrine of self indulgence. Catrell emerges as a talented comedienne. Some tightly directed slapstick in the 3rd act. Amusing but not entirely satisfying evening. "Someday I'll find you" replays in the head.
We shop for champs and goodies. Bob rustles up cheese and chicken strips. And so, good night.
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 27.
I awake and think I'm on the ship. Same sort of harbor view from the bed. Bigger room says Bob. Nice to lie here sort of entwined as we are. Holidays good for that kind of thing.
At swim discover that woman I think is homeless (lying on chaise when I enter w blanket, looks like unsmiling Ann Frank) is actually the lifeguard. Posh place.
We take a pre-relatives-visit walk. No standing room available this week for Hugh Jackman's show. Stop at Bryant Park ( now satisfactorily commercial) and into NY Public Libe - lots of exhibits, tourist-worthy. View the Lord and Taylor windows. Reconnoiter possible lunch restaurants.
Dorothy and Nancy arrive precisely at 12:30. Champs toasts and exchange of presents.
Née decamp to luxe lounge on 2nd floor and while away time pleasantly until ready for play up the street.
Tuesday, December 27. LOVE, LOSS. AND WHAT I WORE. Westside Theatre..
Perfect for our guests, funny readings- vagina monologues style- sometimes poignant anecdotes about women's clothing. 5 talented women including, this rotation, Loretta Swit and Daisy Egan. I especially like the one about the purse.
D & N choose to walk to Penn Station in the (fortunately lightening) rain. A good day.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 28.
5:30 cocktails. I reprimand Bob for keeping local news on - all that sadness, personal tragedies intruding on our holiday. Sounds insensitive and selfish but, hey, I understand how a twist of bad fortune can ruin everything, so . . . Be prepared to change the goddamn channel! Watching Paula Dean now. That's the idea.
Another good day. Early swim - this time with add- on of stretching - number of hunks in the gym - may consider renting this place again. Smallest we've rented but great views, fairly central to theatre district - our natural epicenter - and this fabulous lounge, gym, pool. And now discovery - Dorothy found in the ladies - steam and sauna rooms in the men's.
We walk to
LYSISTRATA JONES at the Walter Kerron 48th pretty theatre. This musical, almost a parody of rock musicals, except it isn't . . . a parody. Fragile premise. Contempo college. Cheerleaders under leadership of Captain LYSISTRATA -- who played Emma wonderfully at the Old Globe -- decide to withhold favors if basketball team boyfriends don't win games. Merriment ensues. However, despite that superficial and confused plot,the cast is young, attractive, talented. The choreoggraphy is stupendous and the young audience loved the show
and why not.
Ai yai yai, wind and chill pick up and so do the crowds as we attempt to pick up tickets for the evening's show. Almost can't move until respite of home and aforementioned cocktails. Top Chef! Well at least it's not family of 10 immolated in
December 28, ON A CLEAR DAY.
On ticket line eariier, I'm asked about the show. I say mixed reviews, terrific music, good cast. They buy tickets; I don't know whether to feel guilty. Actually the audience was mixed. We saw people walking out after the first act ( which Bob pronounced "lifeless"), second act has the four or so familiar songs and more action. Some audience wildly cheering at curtain call. Timeout saying they made a troubled play into a mess. Well, over-dabbled. Got the gays in with the gay patient whose past female ego entices Harry Connivk's psychiatrist. Connick and newbie female lead sing wonderfully.
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29.
Stretch, swim, sweat, fruit bowl and prep for the day. And there's Wonderful Hugh @ noon, looking like a hassidic rabbi in his black sleek, long overcoat, and black flatbrim hat. Much to unwind over an hour of champs.
Then to the Westside steakhouse around the corner for light lunch. We enthuse about our
(referring as I later ascertained to the pressure of our debts countdown to relieving statute of limitations expiration). Hugging goodbye, we look forward to an even better year.
After a COLD walk to and from H&M - yielding no booty alas -- this is not the uptown flagship -- we fight the crowds at Times Square and make it intact home, evening playless, for drinks and pizza - very cocoonesque while New York winks beguilingly below. (That great river and skyscraper view).
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 30.
Certainly have our morning routine. Discovering schlock tv - Rahel Ray, Kelly without Regis (funny bits) after stretch, swim in that gorgeous pool, and sweat (I set off the alarm in my quest for high sauna temperatures and beat hasty retreat). Just a toasted bagel for breakfast -- gotta get into training for Jean Georges.
Looking natty, we trudge uptown for our noon reservation at JG's Nougatine (less formal than the adjacent JG and we wanted to try that - JG in whatever incarnation, we decide, will be a yearly NYC event). and the $32 3 course prix fixe. $38 2008 bottle of Domaine de la Janasse from the
We feel we deserve this after a year of pressure and we resolve to face these former lions down and reveal them as the street kitties they are. Begone. No more noisome calls.
One and a half hour for lunch- that's the way it should be, the weather being comparatively balmy
(in the fifties!) We walk to the
We wander into
MISS ABAGAIL'S GUIDE TO LOVE, MATING AND. .
We didn 't expect much from this TDF cheapie in the neighb and that's what we got. Christine Pedi substituting for the Miss Abagail who got the positive notices - a former child star. This one just didn't get the camp possibilities that her love-lorn foil, Pacp, did /- staring treacherously, for ex, at some audience member he deems a rival. The play is interractive not a favorite with me, tho how audience members respond to instructions onststage has some fascination. Interesting, zany premise undermined by poor pacing and poor approach to the pivotal role. Oh well, it was cheap. We expect that previous night's performance--for which I'd originally signed up, was called for lack of audience or tentativeness on execution. Nevertheless we weren't able to round out this theatrical smorgasbord with "serous fare" like the Athol Fugard with Rpsemary Harris or Chinglish in Mandarin and English (bragging rights with that). Checkov's Cherry Orchard and Wit with Cynthia Nixon unavailable ( as was High JACKMAN - the breaks. But we managed to arrange an interesting program, that fabulous FOLLIES, controversial PORGY with Incandescent Audra MacDonald, SEMINAR nice interactions, revelations, bravura acting, nice to see Rockman in a tailor made role, LYSISTRATA energetic, pretty to watch, despite puerile premise, and dosasterous experiment, CLEAR DAY, despite good singing by the leads.
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 31.
Pool doesn't open until 10, so stretching and treadmill
Have to do.
11:30 we're at 44X10 again for Brunch, which is disappointing- Bob's French toast Is sweet having been drenched in syrup. My herbed eggs unappealing but the grits bathed in butter are yummy.
Go Airlink shuttle arrives at 1 and gets us to
Ambien helps to sleep for first half of flight mercifully.
Pilot announces that visibility issues mean we'll either force a landing ( he confesses he doesn't like to be told what to do -- oops) or we will land in
However, our intrepid pilot, only one as it turns out, lands us in San Doego -- good omen -- and there are Beth with Judy to pick us up. Champs with them at home -- Home -- and we usher in the new year, full of hope, having ended it rather indolently but wonderfully nevertheless.
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CRUISE PROS AND CONS
PROS
CABIN
Modern bathroom, eg
Glass sliders on shower
Flat screen tv with English channels and movies
CONS
CABIN
Need More hooks for hanging
Need armchair for reading
Need electric outlet by bed for charging iPhone while reading
More comfortable sofa
More storage cabinets
Sent from my iPhone=
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