2012: MARCH 6-20 THAILAND TOUR

THAILAND TRIP 3/6-20/2012

15 DAY THAILAND
15 Day Kaleidoscope of Thailand with River Kwai

MARCH 6, Tuesday - Depart the USA
Depart the USA for Thailand. Your flight includes meals, drinks, and
in-flight entertainment for your journey

Flight United 5447 Operated by:
United Express/Skywest Airlines
SAN 09:51 AM
3/6/2012
LAX 10:44 AM

Anticipating the reason it's called The Faaar East as we begin our posterior
exercises in the San Diego commuter terminal. From such ordinary initiation
there will emerge a Journey to the vaunted spice routes of yore (I'm making
this up). It's easy to leave cares behind when you've got ticketing,
scheduling, carting and disposition of belongings to worry about NOW.
Speaking of which, our little put-put plane to LA is "overweight" as we
wring our hands and flight crew spends precious minutes (there's only an
hour layover in LA) taking bags off. Of course! Bob is already saying he
won't ever take a commuter flight again. (I'm sure the gods feel
threatened.) A fat lady is asked to get off (not kidding) and empathetic to
the emergency, the flight attendant becomes an expert in speed speaking the
pre-flight instructions to the point of unintelligibility -- or is that Thai
already bouncing in our heads?

United 0891
LAX 11:42 AM
3/6/2012
NRT 04:35 PM

Lots of Japanese aboard--surprise, surprise--some with the omnipresent gas
masks. (Is there something we should know?) I wind up with a trio of seats
in the rear all l to myself. Hmm. Yup. Smuggle Bob back and we have the
joint to ourselves. Movies are free (ANATOMY OF A MURDER now - Jimmy
Stewart, small town attorney / Eve Arden, wise cracking assistant / Ben
Gazzara, more newly deceased than the other actors, is the accused/ Otto
Preminger directed this noir classic). Verdict: quite long. Ambiguity
personified. Stewart smartly laconic. Keeps me awake.The booze is free too
says our "landsman" gay attendant winkingly and we're feeling almost,
almost, first class without the bill.
We'll see what the Downey/Law SHERLOCK HOLMES can do in that
department. Gotta love the Japanese subtitles. Directed by Madonna's manly
ex, specialist in manly movies, Guy Ritchie. Atmospheric. And when bare
chested Holmes boxes in a pit I realize I'd seen it before. Reading, Bob
concurs.
Next. THE MUPPETS. (Excuse: got high red tomato score and Bob refused to
see it in a theatre. . . . Says he loves the muppets though. Hmm. )
Verdict: a little sappy of course but finally charming, delightful zany
rooting interest story and how can't you love Miss Piggy, says Moi.
To add to this hodgepodge, next is THE HELP. Despite fact that Melissa
Harris Perry -- our idol next to Rachel Maddow -- hated it, film does depict
that eery time in the South although the bigots are cartoonishly drawn. This is a rough
ride; need to pause the movie several times to clutch the sides of my seat
and pray - atheistically of course. Notice Bob doing same as captain tells
us we're in for a half hour more of "turbulence". Don't want to alarm Bob by
comforting him - save that for . . .
Time for tv - let's try BOARDWALK EMPIRE. Murky and dispiriting.
Next. How about vacuous, silly, and truth-defying GLEE - great for
descending into Tokyo - Huh?
Mad race to get to our new gate in the enormous Narita Tokyo airport.
Zoomba training helps. If the plane actually boarded on time we would have
been in serious trouble.

United 9711 Operated by:
All Nippon Airways ALL
NRT 05:30 PM
3/7/2012
BKK 10:50 PM

Captain says "’turberance’ from time to time". Overrated. They keep feeding
us. Kobe beef with sticky rice, an actually fabulous Japanese dinner.
Get to see A BEAUTIFUL MIND at last (after 6th chardonnay of the
day). Russell Crowe deserved honors. Schizophrenics and Autistics are
actors' red meat.
IN TIME, a crappy Justin Timberlake sic-fi. People can buy and sell
minutes, days of their lives. Especially at a juncture of this new
adventure, however, it is worth thinking about the value, the best use, of
the time we have. Extrapolating more philosophy than this movie offers. Then
again, we've just spent 20 hours of our life on Aeroplanes. (And seats
barely recline on Nippon Air steerage.)

MARCH 7, Wednesday -
"Arrive in Bangkok and transfer to your hotel Park Plaza Bangkok
Overnight: Park Plaza Bangkok"

Another huge (5 Years old) airport to navigate--go through passport control/retrieve
luggage/endure customs/and then find Gate 1 transport -not easy that.
The long ride to Park Plaza in the heart of this sprawling and, perhaps
especially at midnight, bustling city, which as straightlaced (well um) tourists we’ll never see –nor choose to see - the famous underside of.
     Our hotel is a mini-version of W -- very contemporary. Opening the door, we’re plunged into darkness because we don't know the master switch/card concept (clever—requiring insertion of the card in a receptacle upon entrance, apparently a pervasive idea in Thailand) which the friendly clerk will later explain. A couple of zambians and I awake almost refreshed in the AM --- ready for the quite ample breakfast buffet in the
pleasant dining room on the 2nd floor. Then to a meeting with our
middle-aged somewhat wry tour manager Anil on the 8th floor where our pool
and gym are. Looks like we're lucking out with a small group -- they'll be
only 6 of us on the northern extension, 18 on the first segment.
Average age as expected -- older. Very diverse.
Some of the cast of characters:
o 2 Philopina sisters from Chicago back from Cambodia trip (they took this because
got tour essentially free with cost of flight back—Gate 1 Tours is a bargain).
o Young Black couple from Alabama. Confuses everyone at first because she,
Loretta, looks like his mother (and Rudy, professional Cambridge liberal, makes that gaff aloud to his unremitting self-remonstrance). He's on hiatus from contracted tour in
Afghanistan. Heavy Southern accents. Shy and am I sensing wary in this group.
o Fortyish boyfriend and girlfriend. He's an all-American American Airlines pilot
obsessed with shopping for trinkets; she's pretty, toothy, almost overeager
but sweet. Bob thinks he's got a wife somewhere.
o Couple with whom we bond, Rudy and Suzanne. She's distinguished (endowed chair) Harvard Art and Arcitecture prof. specializing in Africa (though white). He's head psychoanalyst at Massachusetts hospital. Their 9th Gate 1 tour. Age 63. Thank God for them.
o Another pleasant older couple – who don't take the “optionals”. She's very
pretty. They're patrician.
o 2 black older women from South. Lucille, former home economics
consultant and teacher is wry, worldly, force of nature, walks with cane.
Her female companion is quiet (at first - everybody “emerges” in this group)
dignified. Wonderful contrast to Lucille.

Luck of the draw couples who continue on with us to the last segment (including the River Kwai) – more later on them:

o Ann and Don. First impression--Lumpen prol couple from Allentown. She wears look of wonder/consternation; he's not pleased.

o Tom and Gerri , First impression---short Couple from Orlando, , age 65. Her 3rd marriage she easily confides. She's Always gorgeous/lifted, unstopably chatty, costume jewelry.

O And us, older gay male couple from San Diego on holiday.

MARCH 8, Thursday - Bangkok
This afternoon, enjoy a half day city and temple tour. This tour will
introduce you to Bangkok, the “City of Angels”. Drive through Chinese Town,
the Indian Market, and the Wholesale Flower Market. Visit Wat Po (Temple of
the Reclining Buddha), the oldest and first school for people in the olden
days. See the biggest Reclining Buddha statue, that is 160 feet long and 40
feet high. Before continuing to the Royal Avenue where most of the
Government offices are located and the Palace of the Present King

We discover how difficult traffic is in Bangkok - only motorcycles , 
zigzagging on and off the sidewalk, have haltingly a Bhuddist prayer of
making any progress. We do in our hourlong trek to the Po Wat palace, enjoy
the opportunity of Anil's commentary. He's quite good - always calm- our
knowledgeable middle-aged host guide with his dry sense of humor and easy
willingness to expose frailties of the system - how bribery is built into
the culture - how the police and military share control in this calm
monarchy. Everyone knows his place and how to game the system. Bhuddhism-
certainly a more enlightened philosophy than most - a kind of middle-road
let's not get too exercised about anything. It’s Karma.

     Good seeing big Buddha after all these years (we spent a whole day in Bangkok when we sailed Asian ports on the aging Princess Regal—1999?). The enormous reclining
fellow still seems well rested despite the constant crowds -
wonder how he can sleep through the clamor. Actually its not uncomfortably crowded in this glittery compound of temples -- some ordinary (which means extraordinary) rows of Buddhas - happy gold spectators mingling among the centuries, every gesture meaningful - calming family dissension, reaching to the stars, urging moderation. And so on. 

Then the important temples where the King's ashes reside, mausoleums decorated in broken crockery set in floral patterns. Then those Marco polo statues guarding 

the place, what the Chinese thought westerners looked like - a lot like
Chinese apparently but with top hats and fiercely materialistic mien.
"Temple crawl" says Bob. “Rather overstated don't you think. All those
mirrors."

The hideous trek back - slow start although it’s fascinating gambling with life
and death amongst the drivers - Anil does say the Thais love to gamble and you
can see the state sponsored "numbers" (lottery ticket) stalls lining the streets. And ah
those hundreds of shops filled with gaudy jewelry – a form of currency one
gathers.

"Chao Phraya River Cruise with Dinner
A very relaxing cruise on the River of King, Chao Phraya. Enjoy the
beautiful picturesque of Bangkok by night along the river. You will cruise
slowly up the river, passing by the Royal Navy Fort, Grand Palace and many
beautiful temples which are illuminated at night. An International Buffet
Dinner on board with the entertainment of live band along the way."

Before readying for our evening event, this time the river dinner cruise
swapped for the dinner spectacle, which will instead occur tomorrow, Reuel
enjoys a swim in the lovely shallow pool - nice warm temperature while the
black couple enjoys the 2 for one cocktails at the bar. I should say one of the black couples. There's garrulous Lucille and her exact opposite , the shy and very proper, Shirley, old fashioned name- characters on this very divergent - sociolo-economically - yet friendly group.

Overnight: Park Plaza Bangkok

MARCH 9, Friday - Full Day in Bangkok


















Half Day Grand Palace & Emerald Buddha(AM) Half day morning tour of Wat Phra
Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and the adjoining Grand Palace.
Together they form what is perhaps the greatest spectacle for the visitor to
Bangkok. Wat Phra Kaew consists of over 100 brightly colored building,
golden spires and glittering mosaics, and dates back to 1782, when Bangkok
was founded. From Wat Phra Kaew head to the Grand Palace. Despite the
proximity of the two, there's a distinct contrast in style between the very
Thai Wat Phra Kaew and the more European-inspired designs of the Grand
Palace. The Grand Palace is used only for occasional ceremonial purposes and
is no longer the royal residence.











Thailand is a stitch. Room service menu starts off with "Bread and Buddy".
Of course I'm working on my translation expertise.
Breakfast (and it's really really good - Miso soup, omlette, some of those
unnamable yummy noodle veggie combo dishes - with today's companions, the
much Gate 1 travelled, Tom & Jerry (no kidding) she's Geri - from Orlando,
Fla. -- loads of costume diamonds - of trip to India, she says the women look so
old - "it's unnatural!", she of the new nose and many lifts, a 65 year old
looking 50. O Brave new world.

Maid holds us hostage but we are soon on our 9AM bus. To the question
“Will there be no traffic," Anil answers, "In your dreams". I say "you're
rather too good at the idiom." Now everyone has a Gate 1 nametag courtesy
Anil and we can properly name our new best friends.
We discuss the hotel on our way out from the cruise last night that had a
fire and killed two foreigners. We were there when the fire engines raced
past last night and witnessed the anxiety on the faces of staff as they watched their burning edifice from the street. Problem with safety and bribes. Anil Talks about millionaire politician, Chewit, who made his money on massage parlors--confessed that he paid cops $60,000 a day. Rare honest man.
     1782 is when Bangkok came to life. European buildings 100 yrs. old, Thai
ones are 200. Brits got India, Burma, rest. Thailand was buffer free of
colonization thru king Rama 3 who gave land for freedom. Then US intervened on
Thailand’s behalf. US used Thailand as military base post WW2.
Anil is so good at capsulizing and contextualizing history. 3100 Thai temples. (Will we see them all?) Lucille swats at a fly. Anil quips "you killed the driver’s pet." Funny. We
pass virtual mercantile tent cities of tiny shops along the canal.
     Jaw stopping! The palace.

A group of Thai children passes and hold out their hands. I shake them and
we exchange happy hellos. Spectacularly sweet moment.
     Chatting with Suzanne of Rudy and Suzanne, as we take some shade before
exiting the palace temple grounds. We discover she's an Art and Architecture
professor at Harvard, specializing in World's Fairs. Pretty heady couple
although sweet and unassuming. Compare to Tom and Gerri who insist on
arguing with me how terrible Obama is - that he'll speak like a Republican
but then create Obamacare. Say one scarily partisan thing after another. I
say vote for Romney. They don't get the irony. I enjoy this weird mix of a
group. We pass by the government Housing. 100' apts. Families live in squalor.
We wind up having lunch with Rudy and Suzanne at Lean On Tree
Restaurant near the hotel . Not great. But great to be with them. Googling,
learn further that Suzanne is much published African art expert with endowed chair,
hubby psychoanalyst.

"Siam Niramit Show & Dinner (PM)
Buffet dinner at the Siam Niramit Restaurant before this evening's stunning
performance of the journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Siam. Boasting over
150 performers, this $40 million production delves into Siam's history and
culture, featuring scenes taken from the North's Ancient Kingdom of Lanna,
the famed sea traders of the South, Khmer heritage, and the Central Plains
traditions. Then in a journey reminiscent of Dante, venture into the heart
of Thai mythology with scenes of Fiery Hell, Mystical Himapaan Forest, and
Blissful Heaven. Lastly, enjoy a montage of joyous celebrations honoring the
Buddhist tradition of merit-making festivals."

      Swim and then get ready for our evening of promised camp. The ladies are
dressed up and we ascend one of our 2 minivans.
Bob says, "is this the Best of Bangkok tour?" as we bump along (free body
alignment) back blighted alleys and then crawl along the expressway.
After the buffet in a high school style cafeteria this kaleidoscope of stage pictures, "The height of kitsch" is Bob's verdict. Our band of companions love the show.
7:30 AM bags out, leave 8.


Overnight: Park Plaza Bangkok

MARCH 10, Saturday - Travel to Kanchanaburi
"This morning we will head southwest of Bangkok to explore the Damnoen
Saduak Floating Market. You will have the opportunity to see how local
farmers and villagers trade their wares aboard small Sampan boats. The boats
are loaded with all kinds of products including fruits, vegetables, dry
goods, housewares, and freshly cooked food. From the Floating market, we
will travel on to Kanchanaburi. In Kanchanaburi, we will visit the Bridge
Over the River Kwai, the War Museum, which was built with donations from
Australians and former prisoners, and the War Cemetery. The cemetery was
built by the British Commonwealth War Grave Association, on a plot of land
that was donated by local Thai citizens"

Overnight: River Kwai Resotel Kanchanaburi

After setting out luggage, at Breakfast sit w Rudy and Suzanne and have
an interesting discussion about Thai culture – the function of the king, his strange combo
of permissiveness and non permissivemess.

Anil on way tells us about the Spirit House - animistic shrines -- figures
of old people ancestors. Getting close to the Sea of Siam, the South China Sea. He pulls out a map and does geoethnological history. Who is Thai? Siam means land of short dark
people. We stop to take photos of workers harvesting salt. They have 5 months of the year to do it. The rest of year these are shrimp farms. We learn that it is the Indian influence that is animism. The Thai King always has a Brahman priest in court. Nice to be the King, they are after all the reincarnation of god. We pass through the Town where the first Siamese twins lived. Approaching river and boat we will board, Anil says “Take along everything that makes you look like a tourist.”
  

   Lovely 20 minute longboat ride along the Amazonian canal with its
tributaries, polished wood houses, and then on to the market with its
hundreds of stalls. Our companions enter the bus laden with their newly purchased goodies to much banter and comment. Anil gives us dragons eyes to eat – and delicious and sweet little bananas. That should hold us for the hour and a half ride to
Kanchanburi.
     We watch a dvd Tom wants to share with the group of him as his much younger self
water skiing on a ladder and being featured on John Davidson’s “That’s Incredible”.. Yikes. Everyone has a history.

Though the bridge over that river is unremarkable esthetically
(looks like a miniature Pulaski Skyway) we enjoy the river view as we walk
it and - one of those sweet moments in travel - a woman - Germanic accent -
notices us taking photo of ourselves and volunteers to do it. The bridge
train approaches rather too closely as she stages the picture but she
persists at her peril even shooing a man in the frame away and shouting
triumphantly "I'm risking my life."
     The bus stops later at an ATM and though Bob (“travel professional”)is able to retrieve cash, Rudy and others can't because they failed to warn their banks of this
trip. Rudy and Suzanne seem genuinely shocked that we would give them cash
for a check; we couldn't explain that we'd googled them earlier to discover
how esteemed a Harvard professor and psychoanalyst couple they are. (Or did I mention that earlier?)

     Arriving close but not close enough to the resort "in the middle of
nowhere" as Anil is fond of saying, we scramble into longboats for the final
lap along the Kwai. Lovely ride, cliffs, brush, spray and then the short
walk up to this rustic resort - our accommodation is charming, a little
house replete with high peaked ceiling and a little porch surrounded by exotic
trees. Wowza.

      Later "dry martinis" served by a little Thai boy dyke at the bar are
really 1/2 sweet vermouth; the second.round is "just vodka. Please". At
dinner we partake of the quite good buffet as Nutty hyperactive Rudy regales
the 2 of us with stories about his psychoanalytic methodology - use Buddhism
or something as starting point. (Huh?) Turns out his doctorate is in
sociology (but with an MSW).

Overnight: River Kwai Resotel Kanchanaburi

MARCH 11, Sunday - Full Day in Kanchanaburi
"Full Day Hellfire Pass & Death Railway with lunchDepart early in the morning
from Kanchanaburi to visit Hell Fire Pass and the Death Railway. Hellfire
Pass derives its name from Allied Prisoners of War; who were ordered by the
Japanese authorities to complete the bridge earlier than scheduled.All POW's
were forced to work day and night in the jungle. They dug through the
mountain with simple tools and more than 12,000 British, Dutch, Australian &

American troops and 80,000 Thais perished during construction. Our trip will
include a boat trip on the River Kwai and you will be able to take a ride on
the Death Railway. We will stop for lunch and head back to Kanchanaburi."

Gotta get ready for 8:30 am departure. Of course we're quite early for breakfast, selecting a table overlooking the river bank. I can't stop snapping pics of the incredible tropical setting in this unique rainforest resort.

     On to our longboat and we're off to our day's adventure, only 8 of us.
Anil waxes learnedly on farming, the flora. Teak, tapioca, cattle. Thailand
is self-sufficient agricultually. Governments promise each family a cow. The
guy's really knowledgeable.

     At Hellfire - named for Austrailian's campfires that looked like fires
of hell -- we joke about the steep walk but though there are many steps (and
veteran walkers Bob and I manage well) the extraordinary accomplishment of
creating a supply line to Burma is evident and reminders of the brutality
meted on the prisoners of war and the duped hired hands by the Japanese is
starkly clear.

Tom and ever-bubbly Geri rival Reuel in snapping of photos
(as usual). After our trek up and down enough of the pass to make the point
(Bob votes with a chortle when Anil asks if we should press on and Reuel is
even less subtle) we head to the well-curated museum - many photos and
slides of the inhumanity represented there. Boning up on what we knew little
of, WW2 in the eastern campaign. Looking at one of the narrative posters detailing
the beginning of Japanese incursion here in 1941, I remark to the portly old guy
from Allentown (and Bob has established their mutual ties), Don, that's when I was born. He says he too - yikes. Many moments of self-revelation during travels.

     We stop to see monkey families. Though there is a sign in English
saying Don't Feed, there's a vendor selling monkey food and Russians (who don’t understand the sign) feed them.

 Freshly made Phad Tai at the restaurant near the cave we enter (big Buddha confronts us there -- its another impressive experience) and lunch with the large bottle of Singha beer we share that seems to go so well with the local cuisine. Our dining table overlooks a fork in the Kwai - lovely, serene - and the railroad
tracks in the distance as we await the arrival of the always-late train,
talk with Rudy and Suzanne of politics and then chatter with the group until
Bob shouts "It's coming."
     Anil has us sit on the left for scenic views. The train reminds us
of the old Jersey central. A vendor passes through with donuts and pancakes.
Anil tells us he remembers him as a boy vending. It's the family business
for generations. They make the pastries and don't need a license, just get
on the train - free for Thais weekdays and then they buy a ticket for weekends. This is an almost-free enterprise. Scenic ride. Anil advises on photo opportunities where to be
positioned - but somehow I miss the giant Buddha in an open field adjacent
to a tapioca farm. "Next time", I say. Not sure he gets that, but he's
certainly ordinarily a guy who enjoys skewed humor.
     Kit, our pint sized driver, picks us up at the last stop of our
train ride and in not very short order we are at a 7/11 for Rudy & Suzanne's transfer to
an elephant ride (we’ve already purchased our “optional” to occur later) and we buy a bottle of stoli for $14, as a  possible antidote to the sweet concoction the Thais consider a martini. We remaining couples, who the dice will have as the Northern
Thai tourists, discuss a Miranmarian trip which Tom and Don refuse to venture
on. It may come down to air quality anyway - an issue for that segment we
have discovered. Who knew? But looking forward, we are surely strange
bedfellows. Rudy and Suzanne have already expressed their sorrow and sympathy for us.
   

   Our next to last Amazonian boat ride to the resort (bus can't make
that leg of a drive) and Bob and I, free of groupofication, groupiness, groupability, have
a glass of wine on a terrace overlooking the river until its time for
Reuel's Royal full body hour massage (400 baht + 50 baht tip) - not great
but a massage is a good thing. Upstairs open - four mats (too public said
Suzanne; mediocre, too many masseuses in Thailand, too young, says Rudy; I go
anyway). Beautiful Burmese girls bobbing and weaving and kneading.
  

   Meanwhile Bob has another wine in our chalet room and naps.
Soon it's time for in-room vodka cocktails and a marathon viewing
of Thai television / a stitch! and supplying our own translations of
apparently inexplicable events. In one show 2 rival teams attempt to run
through cutouts of bodies in Keith Haring configurations. In another people
try to find their loved one behind a locked door. One guy finds himself
mistakenly in the arms of another guy. And then there's 1 of 2 English
language programs, RT (Russian Television) which shills for the soviet angle
on the news- surprise, they don't like our point of view - they like theirs:
Russia will broker peace in Syria in favor of the stability of the ruling
government, not the "terrorists", etc.
   

 Buffet again for dinner. Perhaps we should have been more adventurous and order ala carte especially since we sit with the Philopena ladies who have and who seem to know the cuisine (except when one is asked what's that fish you're eating answers I don't know but she advises Gerri [who with a glum Tom are later arrivals] to have a shrimp
bowl which is fine but seems devoid of shrimp. This enrages Tom who clearly
thinks his wife is a spendthrift. She ignores him while he demands a
discount for the missing shrimp. Instead she confides ceaselessly in us
about her former husbands all of whom she loved at first: "I never married
for money." "I've always married for money," I say to her appreciative
hilarity. At the bill rendering the server announces - to all within earshot - that Bob and Reuel have consumed in 2 nights 4 vodkas and 11 wines – (keeping up the habit almost like our being in America. Ain't it)?
     The Mung Burmese dance show is a wonder, a rare treat with an audience
of a dozen and as many dancers plus a mesmerizing orchestra on authentic
instruments never pausing on their insistantly rhythmic playing. Beautiful
girls in gowns, a premier danceur, head cocked, snapping, leaping and then
informally a kid again, standing around. The children dancers are amazing
too. It's kind of “We do this sort of thing everyday so lets put on a show”.

Overnight: River Kwai Resotel Kanchanaburi

MARCH 12, Monday - Travel to Ayutthaya
"Depart for Ayutthaya, the second and most prosperous capital of Thailand,
from 1350-1767. On the way, stop at Bang Pa In Royal Palace. Bang Pa In was
the royal summer palace for Thai kings. Originally constructed in 1632, the
complex fell into disrepair. In the mid-1800's, King Mongkut restored the
site to its former glory. Upon arrival in Ayutthaya, enjoy sunset at Chai
Wattanaram Temple. This temple was built by King Prasat Tong, who was
actually a commoner who overthrew the previous king and took his throne.
This is a lovely place to take in the nature and peace of Siam"

Explore an evening tour of Ayutthaya on a local Tri-Shaw. Enjoy the peace
and quiet of this UNESCO World Heritage site that was founded in 1350. The
ruin's palaces and temples are a great example of the city's past
prosperity. The site is characterized by the stunning reliquary towers and
gigantic monasteries. You will be able to see the park illuminated at night.
" (the latter is canceled because the all-important lights were damaged during the last floods)

Overnight: Ayutthaya Krusgsri River Hotel

     Bob does his usual excellent job of repacking our luggage for collection by
a skirted Burmese boy at 7 AM. After breakfast which we take overlooking the
pool and river in the distance flanked by pock-marked stone walls and jungle
trees. Much commotion, picture taking and merriment as our
group waits on the dock as our luggage is collected and loaded onto a long
boat prior to our last Kwai River ride to the big blue bus and Kit handing
out our bottles of water.

Anil prepares us for the long trip ahead in his
calm, uninflected tones, Indian accent reflecting his Hindu family origins.
Threatening to put us "to sleep", he asks for questions. Mine, "If you were
a monk how would you spend the day?" This sets off an hour-long and
fascinating description of monks (Anil was one once) and then of Buddhism.
Animism to Hinduism to Buddhism. He talks of Karma and how his dog was good
in a previous life since he protects and feeds the dog but he must have “done
something bad to be a guide in this life, speaking on a microphone on a tour
bus and peddling lies to tourists.” Simply and elegantly stated.

And then after this pacifist lecture, Tom takes the mike and recites- 

unbelievably and scarily- his war poetry. You better love the troops or
else! Blame the commander in chief if you have quibbles. It rhymes. He has a facility with rhyme. Later he will recite his love and holiday poems. (When on the last day he offers more “poems” – which Gerri, ever the flak, has announced is a great treat, all eyes are averted, noone assents. This produces more brooding from this mercurial character).
     Needless to say the King's summer palace (but it's always summer here
you say) is gorgeous. We walk the grounds (Lucille and Shirley are driven
by golf cart) populated by European style buildings mainly with the exception of the
Emperor's Palace, a forbidden city- style fantasy "fit for an empress"
though no empress ever visited. Cute Thai boys changing the guards and looking none too happy in their heavy uniforms on this sweltering day. The throne room- more European - is impressive for the pomp - you better bow way low -that must have 
characterized receptions with the King.

Speaking of whom - there are
portraits everywhere of the 84 year old king in glasses and his wife and his
daughter - who is visiting today - we wait while her entourage passes. We
note the King is wearing pink - hence his subjects are requested to wear
pink and we need all the luck we can get.
     Our hotel is a piece of luck. Classy - our room has a river view. We remark
with Rudy and Suzanne who are on their 9th Gate 1 tour how well-done it all is.
Our sunset countdown night-crawl of the incredible Heritage site is similar enough to
Angkhor Wat that we are proud to have saved the $1200 for that excursion as
we wander from one terra cotta brick or gray temple to the next, some with
buddhas. We seem to be followed by a young Japanese group loudly exclaiming
Kung Fu style - turns out they are making a movie, though frankly their
exclamations are justified. We have our picture taken in front of one of the
better preserved Buddha shrines as the sun casts gold upon it. Tom focuses
carefully and others come by to encourage and exclaim - a way of saying, we
accept you guys for who you are. Neat.
     The eye can hardly accept the splendor. No wonder this is the Queen's
favorite place. And at one border is the river, magical at this hour - barges
tugging and tour boats rolling along. Snap, snap.
     This is the last night for most of the group and Rudy & Suzanne choose to spend it with us (it's mutual). They like us. They really like us. Of course we're anxious
about the sale of 5th Avenue. Will the inspection go ok and finally
greenlight the project? But there’s no wi-fi connection drat. We're 9 hours ahead,
the inspection should occur in the middle of the night so after playing with
Suzanne's laptop (on which what great scholarly tomes and missives to Henry
Louis Gates about ousting Harvard president Larry Summers must lie),
we four become the sole occupants of the lobby bar well before taking riverside seats
at the hotel's fine Thai restaurant. Twinkly tree lights, live duo singing
the Carpenters pleasantly. Good wine, quite good food. I'm learning to deal
with spices a little better - so long as there's enough liquid around. Love
my serpent head fish with . . .  head. Rice with prawns. Spicy minced lemon-grass
salad. High class meal with wine and gratuity for $60. And the company.
We adore these people. Talk of politics, gossip about the fellow
denizens of the tour, Harvard politics - who knew B&R were au courant - new
York, other trips, philosophy of life, and we part vowing to communicate and
see if we can travel together again. (March when they both have off?)
We concur about Anil as a great guide.


MARCH 13, Tuesday - Travel to Sukhothai
Depart Ayutthaya and travel north to Sukhothai. Sukhothai was founded in the
13th Century by King Ramkhamhaeng, as the capital of Siam
Overnight: Sukhothai Legendha

  
   And then there were six, six of us now on a van heading North. Now an "unscheduled" stop at a little town known for elephant trading and a big temple created for a monk whose body didn't burn - means he was special being fireproof - also the place has the most toilets around. So we see it. This would be perfect as a Las Vegas casino. Hundreds of shimmering mirror glass columns, chandeliers galore, mirrored 30 foot ceilings – heaven! - which is what it's supposed to represent, and plenty of Buddhas to rent and bow to on the marble floors to commemorate something. I think I like this religion
better than more regimented Judao-Christianity (if you gotta have one). It’s fun.

     Aproaching the next town, the gateway to the North. Rivers join here
and flow all the way to Bangkok. A lot of Chinese settled here. Looking for
another “Big C”, the shopping center where the locals eat and shop. Anil
advises us to do the same. And we do. We're busted by Don and Mae who videotape us eating pizza. Then I find colored watches for 190b each and colored belts for 99 each though they’re probably too outré even for me to wear.

 At Sukhotai we pass our hotel for a walk around the heritage site area 100 years older than Ayuthayia. It is incredible . The vendor ladies with their carvings and appliqued blouses precede us on their motorbikes and greet us at each juncture each time with cheaper prices as Anil had warned us they would. Of course my batteries are dead now after a long day’s activity so I prevail on Anil to take a photo of us in front of the Buddja in an evening gown - (Just took my daily photo of Gerri's hand jewels with her happy complicity - peace reigns again among the group.)

     After a refreshing swim in the beautiful pool though full of guests
from the other larger Gate 1 group - with its own gay couple we note - going
north at dinner. Fireworks: Don refuses to eat - doesn't eat Asian food
"just meat and potatoes" his wife Ann - understandably an unhappy woman
yoked to such a yahoo – am I too harsh? -- carries on about a vegetarian dish to Don’s consternation. Tom also refuses to eat. Talk turns to politics just before the dance dinner show (with requisite transvestite) and when Gerri says she'd like to kill Obama, Bob
tells her that's "over the top" then bang! Tom: “He's a socialist worse than
the Russian czars”. I say we shouldn't talk politics. We leave them "to take
pictures" and to wonder how we can go on with these people.


MARCH 14, Wednesday - Sukhothai Historical Park, Travel to Chiang Rai
Some of the most beautiful Thai art and architecture was produced during
Sukhothai's golden era - between the 13th and 14th centuries. Modern
Sukhothai is made up of the old town and new town. The old town of Sukhothai
mainly consists of the large Historical Park, where most of the remains of
the original city can be seen. Today you will have the opportunity to tour
this historical site and marvel at the ancient Buddha figures, palace

buildings and ruined temples. Later in the day, board your tour bus to
venture north for Chiang Rai
Overnight: Chiang Rai Le Meridien chiang Rai Resort

Early rising to pack, set out the luggage, and get ready for the monks who
collect food for the temple 6-ish.

After a nice breakfast we take photos of the incredible ruins (elephant
carvings on the wat) on the grounds of our hotel.

On the road to the north Chian Rai, we see trucks of rice sellers along the
road- some homemade trucks powered by the "iron buffalo" which is also used as
home generator etc.
     Anil discusses how the society is loosening - teenagers taking drugs because parents
are constantly working. Turns out a man shot up the streets of Ayutaya on
amphetamines last night. There but for the grace. However, either you hide
in your room at home or venture out and test fate. If dissension with fellow
travelers is the worst case, we'll take that, when this is an amazing experience—discovering something of the beauty of Thailand.

     We sit in the back of the mini-van. Despite the bumpiness, we choose
to let the 2 couples sit together. Let 'em bond. At one point I hear Don
saying how he'd gather illegal migrants together and shoot them like rats.
He tends to trigger-happy conversation. And these people travel over the
world. Apparently that experience doesn't always open the mind.
We stop off at a lakeside town where we bravely step into a restaurant
serving only Thais (though the other Gate 1 tour comes in en masse later).
The others in our little party go elsewhere, thankfully. Large beer, shrimp pancakes, stir fry with flat noodles and shrimp.
     Next stop (and they usually are spread out every hour and a half or
so) is this famous nutty artist's $7 million (his own money) temple complex.
Dazzling white or gold buildings, mystical, mythical paintings and
sculptures from his own odd and sometimes irreverent imaginings. Anil's
warning that there is a painting of GW Bush sent into outer space provokes
Don, "Put O'bama in the crosshairs."

     One of the great hotels of the world., The MERIDIEN CHIANG RAI. Our
enormous room's fabulous terrace overlooks a flowing river, golf course in
distance. We want to live here in this room. Bathroom, soji screen, huge.
We explore, Reuel swims just seven lengths in the infinity pool before Bob
on a poolside divan warns to get out. The sky and distant sounds of thunder
are too threatening. We take happy shelter in the riverside/poolside bar
when after our drinks are delivered by the charming bartender a flash
monsoon rain occurs. Reuel is unharmed but surprised by something flying at him from a bar shelf. The bartenders are alarmed. They know. We take shelter
first in the adjacent restaurant and then we are trapped in a corridor
watching the stirring wind and rain show. We are excited and glad we didn't
book during the rainy season. A servant runs through the rain to offer us an
umbrella. We are then met by the young British hotel manager who directs us
back to our room. We still have our drinks in hand - priorities in the
storm - and in the safety of our suite watch tree limbs flying.
Clearly a generator kicks on after the lights go out.  "Your room number? If
electric power come back we will call you." After a half hour all is calm
again. The birds are chirping. But clearly we won't venture out to the open
air market tonight. A call to say the electricity will return in 30
minutes. "Now that's a 5 star hotel," says Bob. (I give it a 6.)
Our favorite room service meal, club sandwiches, caps the day.


MARCH 15, Thursday - Mae Sai Border Town & Golden Triangle
"This morning, travel to the town of Mae Sai, the northern-most point of
Thailand, on the border of Myanmar. Here you will have the opportunity to
cross over into Myanmar (Visa into Myanmar is obtained locally, at the
border crossing, and at your own expense). After the morning excursion, we
will stop at the infamous Hall of Opium. This tour combines a museum of the
history of opium and the impact of illegal drugs, with an information center
for research and extensive education on opium, opiates and other narcotics.
Later, visit the night bazaar for an evening of shopping for the local wares
of Chiang Rai."

Of course the MERIDIEN has an incredible breakfast, though Bob decides not
to choose any of the dozen fish dishes. Our companions are cheery this
morning, as we sit together, probably because we gave them "space" the
previous eve to go to the soggy night market.

     After a long ride we are rewarded with our stop at the northernmost
town in Thailand. There are breaks and unannounced tour stops along the
way. Mai Sai is bustling and vibrant . Trading is going on furiously between
the bicycles, motorbikes, rickshaws, pedestrian traffic of different tribal
nationalities, and little stalls.
     Don (remember, suspicious of “foreigners. OMG) and faithful (although they often bicker) Ann opt to remain in Thailand while Anil leads us into Myanmar (formerly- under the Brits - Burma) having used our $40 per person to grease us through "legally/illegally". Our friendly motorized rikshaw driver whisks us along the also bustling streets until we meet a more market market -- the

skirt-wearing (men and women) denizens busily ignore us strange strangers
snapping their pictures , pointing , invading their spaces because they know
we won't trade for their odd foods and less odd stuff - a barber in a
stall, kids playing, working folks.

Then our drivers take us to a real
neighborhood. We pass hovels and big houses side by side, new construction -
ever since Hilary Clinton came to open up dialog with the regime months ago
housing values have soared and there's a building boom. At a big Burmese
temple, a bright little girl, Hanama, with some idiomatic command of English, “adopts” Bob and Reuel and leads us through the rituals - we wash the Buddha and elephant statues on our birthday shrines, Bob is Friday - the mole - Reuel Wednesday the elephant. We gong 9 times each , buy her postcards and tip her a dollar (great exchange rate for them).

We find more photo opportunities with Buddhas, taking turns with Tom and Gerri. We know we're going to burn in Buddha hell for our ugly American irreverence.

      Museum of narcotics - very expensively put together - slide shows,
window displays, but confusingly so. Chronology is confusing of trade and
trade wars - we get that Brits and other countries got the Chinese addicted
and ruined the economy for their own gain and are made well aware that addiction is bad. And that the saintly royal family said No to drugs and supported the museum (or
is it the US DEA) though addiction is now high among youth because, says Anil again,
parents are always working (for $7 a day - soon to be $10).
     Lunch (with famous Thai Pad- shrimp Reuel, chicken Bob -- and a large
Shingha beer - window seat on the river. Notice monks looking at menu at 2 pm.
You gotta wonder since their last meal of the day is supposed to be 11am.

Mekong River Cruise (PM) The Mekong River, is 2,703 miles long and originates
from the Tibetan Plateau. It runs through China, Burma, Thailand, Laos,
Cambodia and Vietnam. The section of the river at this Golden Triangle flows
through the spot where three countries Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Thailand
meet. The afternoon cruise will board you on a motor boat and cruise slowly
along the banks of these three countries, near enough to really shout
"Hello" to those villagers who are living here along the banks. The timing
is quite perfect as local folks who live along the river come to the river
at this time to bathe. Later today, continue to Don Sao, a small island of
Laos. Enjoy shopping and leisure time in Laos. Continue back to Thailand.
Overnight: Chiang Rai Le Meridien chiang Rai Resort

     Mekong Rover cruise not especially fascinating. We have a shallow long
boat to ourselves - view of Casino in Laos (China benefits) and get off to
shop a couple of T shirts showing this is Golden Triangle: Thailand, Burma,
Laos.

      Reuel swims in the lovely infinity pool as Bob, returning poolside
with his wine, is introduced by Claudia of the Gate 1 big group, to the
lineup of her fellow travelers including 2 women from San Diego. Post swim,
we retreat to the pool bar, scene of last night's first stirrings and then
outbursts of post monsoon turbulence. Now all is peaceful here and on the
now/darkening lake we chat with Arthur of William and Arthur, that group’s
gay couple - every group oughta have a gay couple -- then with a retired black couple
from Las Vegas and Chicago. In the established pattern you chatter on where
you've been and how you got there.
     "Very good. I will send the Hindu to pick up your tray." I swear the
room service guy said that. Many strangenesses here probably because it is a
strange, as in alien, culture to us. We'd ventured past the local Thai and
Chinese restaurants near the base of our hotel to the mini Mart, no sandwiches just beer. And chips to complement our later room order of sausage and chorizo panini.


MARCH 16, Friday - Travel to Chiang Mai
After a morning at leisure, we will head to Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is the
cultural heart of Northern Thailand. Located in the rolling foothills of the
Himalayas, Chiang Mai's remained isolated from the world until the 1920's

"Half Day Mae Salong Hill Tribe (AM)Your tour begins with hour drive from
Chiangrai City. Upon arrival, change transportation to the local Thai Combi
which will take you up to the Doi Mae Salong to visit the hill that is still
inhabited with the hill tribes. See the unique way of life & culture of the
various tribes that is still maintained today. As you ascend the hill, you
will have the opportunity to visit several different hill tribes before
arriving to the peak."

On to our visit to the indigenous people.

We will join the bigger group
for a change in itinerary to the animistic Burmese Karen long-necked (rather
than just plain) hill people. They are the least sophisticated -
polygamous - have devirginizing sex teachers. No written language (the cows skin
on which it was  written was eaten up when they were hungry). The Yao tribes come from
China. (Anil is good at describing this stuff). Ready to board our truck for the hill climb - getting cold. We're like the old Jews being taken to the camps -- though everyone here seems optimistic.
     The long climb down dirt steps is rewarded by photo op images of long-
necked [the necks really aren’t longer, just looks that way and I think shoulders are kind of pulled down] Karan doing their crafts, weaving, hammering in their straw stalls.
Adorable children. Heavy neck rings - wear them all their life unless punished -
in which case you'll die with unsupporting neck muscles. We buy scarves for the girls. Anil tells us they've weaved these themselves. The other stuff they sell is imported.
Weather very pleasant up here in the hills and that's the reason Thais
come to Chiang Rai, that and the gambling, permissible in the other
border countries of the Golden Triangle.

    A blissful 25 minutes and we’re back at our hotel, charge battery, bags out and
onto our Chiag Mai journey. A delightful stop for lunch at a pie place by
the river. Reuel’s pork with green sauce is spicy (but I'm growing bolder - trying
to appreciate the fire around the roof of my mouth) - beer and rice helps -
and Bob’s fried noodle with beef in soy sauce is both delicious and the dishes are under $2 each. This feast is topped off by a coconut cream pie Bob and Reuel share.
We walk the suspension bridge over the Maesuai River and watch the
birds in the lovely property’s aviary.

Cabbages and Condoms is the rest stop. A frantic search ensues for shirts
with the iconic logo that fit . Clearly Thais think all tourists are XL or XXL -- and compared to these skinny little people I suppose we are.  We settle for coasters.
     Our Chiang Mai hotel. Right in the heart of the city, steps into
the night market. Though our room is half the size of Le Meridien Chiang
Rai, it is up to the minute and offers a spectacular view from the 11th
floor over the City to the mountains. Refreshing to swim 40 lengths of the
infinity pool after that terribly long minivan ride. Bob having his 2
glasses of wine and Reuel, drying off but not drying out, has a martini as we
watch the sun set behind the hills.

Kantoke Dinner & Show. This evening, delight in a Kantoke dinner with
traditional dances from Northern Thailand. As guests of this unique event,
you will be seated on the floor, as is customary, and enjoy acted scenes
depicting the local culture as you dine. After dinner, villagers from
various hilltribes will perform an exciting array of cultural dances,
including the Fon Lep (Fingers Dance), Sword Dance, Fon Thien (Candle
Dance), and Ramwong, in which all guests are invited to participate.

     Just in time for our ride to the evening's optional, the Kantoke
dinner show. Mixed in with the westerners are lots of Thais because, as Anil
explains, the traditional dance is rare in the cities. Ritual is all. Shoeless we tuck our legs in a kind of trough under the table as servers provide food on a lazy Susan. Anil explains how to use the sticky rice about which we think “what’s the fuss?”.

Overnight: Chiang Mai Le Meridien Chiang Mai

MARCH 17, Saturday - Full Day in Chiang Mai
"Enjoy the morning at leisure to explore Chiang Mai independently. Chiang Mai
is a city known for culture, nature and handicrafts. This afternoon, visit
the handicraft street of Sankampang for on site demonstrations of how the
silk, lacquer, silver, wood and bronze wares are made."

Notes on hotel: The Le Meridiens make the best omelets. Their version of
Montevani elevator music is jungle sounds and clicks and some of that drumming
we hear at the dance shows.

Half Day Mae Sa Elephant Camp with lunch (PM)Travel northwest along the Mae
Sa Valley, with its scenic botanical gardens and ten-tiered waterfalls, to
visit the Mae Sa Elephant Training Camp. Here you will see elephants bathing
in the running streams or demonstrating their daily feats of skill and
strength in a show with music and dance, a soccer match, or an abstract
painting demonstration. Even more impressive is the camp's goal to protect
the endangered Thai Elephant by controlled breeding, a program which has
flourished since it was established in 1995. At an additional charge, you
may choose to ride on the back of a Thai Elephant, making for a truly
memorable experience. Enjoy time at leisure to walk the exhibition
greenhouses, gardens and nature trails.

     Elephant camp: a high point of the trip. Elephants are lovely creatures.
We ride one with sweet elderly (the others are young) mahout (driver ,
trainer who lives essentially with the elephant). The 1/2 hour bumpy but
neat trek is just right, allowing us time to explore the camp, especially
the Nursery where we feed bananas and sugar cane to baby and mother. Reuel
gets embraced - photo op - by elephants (their trunks) and is thrilled.
Later we marvel at elephants' smarts and sensitivity at the show, where they
show incredible skill at such as soccer and painting. Wow.

     

Orchid farm buffet. Excellent. Fried bananas, vegetable tempura and stir fry, fried bananas. Reuel tries spicey. Pleased to endure. Still discovering it’s
possible. The butterfly preserve on the grounds - maybe 4 or 5 live butterflies but there are chrysalises and prettiness which is certainly the case with the beautiful orchids, row on row of loveliness.
     Although we are generally resentful of commercial stops when we travel, we get some
education at the silver stop, how long it takes to punch out the bas reliefs
and polishing out of tar, etc. And Reuel buys a neat leather and sterling
silver (meaning not very expensive) bracelet with Bob's
agreement/permission. The next stop silk emporium is actually interesting
because the pretty spokesgirl (these people can be very attractive)
depicts the silk worm cycle and we see workers spinning silk threads from
the cacoons and weaving thread by thread. No purchasing here though we seek
something nice for Don.

      Home dinner. Water lily stream [not sure what iphone was trying to write here]. Charming older woman invites us into her charming teak house that she built for her family -  her elegant mother who has her own little house on the grounds (these are not “typical” Thais), a little 6 year old grandniece at first shy then dancing around, and the mistress’s sister. An appetizer, one swallow, ingredients in a leaf. The Mistress shows us how she makes chili. Beef w veg, chicken w veg, talapia, and for dessert the big deal sticky rice and mango. She shows us upstairs to the bedrooms, and the Buddha room commemorating her ancestors. Outside we release hot air balloons to let go of our problems. They are beautiful alighting to the sky, forming a constellation there.
Bob's verdict: "strange evening; didn't think the food was particularly good." Reuel, more impressed and astonished at how well behaved, even fawning the others of our little group are, including yahoo (ok I’m harsh) Don who seemed positively civilized/deferential. Guess he didn't think the old broad would be the type to vote for Obama.



MARCH 18, Sunday.
"Chiang Mai City & Temples Tour; Dinner at Private Home
Morning at leisure in Chiang Mai. This afternoon, enjoy a half day city and

temple tour, and visit the most interesting temples in Chiang Mai. Your tour
takes you to Wat Suan Dok, where the remains of the Chiang Mai Royal family
are enshrined. The tour continues to Wat Phrathad Doi Suthep, erected in
1384 A.D. Located 3500 feet above sea level, Wat Phrathad Doi Suthep is
Northern Thailand's most sacred temple, containing a holy relic of Lord
Buddha and a copper-plated chedi topped by a tiered gold parasol in its
interior cloister. Equally impressive is the mythological Naga
(Dragon-headed serpent) staircase, consisting of 290 steps leading up to the
temple grounds. As you descend the stairs, there will be an opportunity to
visit a local jade factory. In the evening, enjoy the authentic experience
of dinner in a local Chiang Mai family home. Enjoy a tour of the home, and
an open conversation of how a typical Thai family lives, all while enjoying
the savors of home cooked Thai cuisine."

For breaky a wonderful vegetable soup and guava juice.

        Now on to the Garden Temple - where 1/2 of Buddha’s relics are entombed. Magnificent cemetery too. Monks here and there. Workers chipping and cleaning.
Now to the  other 1/2 of the relics on hill temple. Too bad it's foggy as we climb the long climb. Gerri asks if we can give a wandering monk climbing a ride. Anil explains for them it is the travel not the destination – “he’s a wandering not a hitchhiking monk”. His dry slightly (but increasingly) irritated (understandably at Gerri in particular) humor in play. Funicular is enclosed so the uphill ride is not scenic. The temple's floor tiles are cool under bare feet. So many rituals are possible. Reuel gets blessed by a monk (and drenched by his holy water in the process and as part of the blessing gets a string bracelet from him; vows not to take it off ever ever unless . . . ).  We walk down the 300 steps along the dragon (you gotta be there) and collect our photo posed in front of the temple upstairs.

     At the Jade place, lecture on nephrite vs. jadeite from the owner. Though we kind of resent these visits theoretically, nevertheless it's nice to get the background and see the craftsman creating the product. We see two gay men, apparently habitues of the factory - admire the jade ring of one. After looking at samples, Reuel decides not to spend the $400 minimum to reproduce a cheaper version of that ring.
At the hotel in time for Reuel to swim 20 lengths before our chicken
on rosemary chabata bread and couple of glasses of Chardonnay are served
(Bob already on glass one signals Reuel when the food arrives). Pretty neat.
The servers recognize us and we're practically the only guests around.

Traditional Thai Massage Travelling to Thailand will never be complete

without having a traditional Thai Massage. Different than other kinds of
massage, your masseuse will stretch, bend, and contort your body into
various positions. Known to quickly ease the stress of muscle tension and
aides in curing minor illness. You will receive a set of personal cotton
clothing with GATE 1 logo to wear during the massage.
Overnight: Chiang Mai Le Meridien Chiang Mai

     It's 2:30 and time for our massage. What perfect luxury. Tea and then they
massage and scrub our feet with a soft bristle brush in a liquid solution.
Heaven the Thai massage - please don't end. Bob claims he hears Reuel
snoring. Clearly he’s delusional.
     We walk to locate a restaurant suggested by Anil and then venture on
to the famous Sunday Walking Street outdoor mall which seems to rival the
Barcelona Ramblas in length . We walk it all - a kind of enhanced Thai Hillcrest.
Citifest - several bands of blind musicians, foods, textiles, ditzy, what
have you. Reuel buys 2 Chiang Mai flower t-shirts for Zumba class, and we
buy a ceramic tea cup piece of pottery, gray with blue striping for Don
($10) after Bob bargains - not very strenuously because he feels it was made
by a local craftsman.
     Back to our suite for drinks as we lie on the windowside chaise
overlooking the city in its pervasive haze. Which means we don't have the
energy to go out for dinner as planned. Too comfortable. We have chips and
incredible Thai chocolate cookies and a tad more vodka. Our bad. Our choice.
The city (albeit not classically beautiful) nevertheless blinks and winks winsomely
below.

MARCH 19, Monday - Chiang Mai, Bangkok
This morning, transfer to the airport for your flight to Bangkok. Upon
arrival, transfer to your hotel. Afternoon at leisure to explore Bangkok on
your own
Overnight: Bangkok Park Plaza Bangkok
    

They love my blue watch at airport security as we await our flight to
Bangkok. Reuel has a few new accessories, the leather and silver bracelet
and the monk-blessed string. Bob chooses no new adornments.
Bangkok Air has a nifty lounge serving food and drinks. Try the sugary "ice
tea". Bob enjoys the blueberry cake. Meet Interesting guy from Morro Bay, a photographer who served in the Peace Corps and speaks Thai. He advises us to visit the indigenous people who live beyond the canals in Bangkok (“Venice of the East”). Next time although we did experience the long-necks in Chiang Rai.
     In the chic lobby of the hotel where we first started this tour, we
say goodbye to our companions (bye bye!) and to Anil who we give a very
substantial and well deserved tip. Much relaxing in our room and up to the rooftop pool where Reuel swims 50 and Bob joins him for a couple of small and overpriced martinis.
Actually, sans our guide, there are irritations even here in a luxe hotel
where one does not speak their language (nor they ours). The big post 5pm
two-fers apparently applies only to "standard drinks" which by our lights is
what we thought we ordered and later when we order room service - not
wishing to dress for dinner in the hotel or wander in search of food in the
considerable heat of Bangkok - excellent dishes by the way - Bob stir fried
veggies on a bun (not a burger as advertised) and Reuel Phad Thai with beef,
the pitcher of Singha beer we order is one small bottle to share. Oh well, “Mai
pen Rai” – “Whatever”. Could it be that Buddhism is spreading a protective wing
over our restless western brains?
    

Good for us. With help of Mr. Ambien we sleep 8pm-ish to 3 and are
early (as is our car - hooray Gate 1) for our trafficless ride to the
airport. Plenty of time to walk and shop in this huge place which has every
name (and some unnamed) luxe store in the book. We buy books, souvenir elephant
balls for Gary and Rocco, and Bob buys a tiny elephant to commemorate our
ride. We've still $30 in Baht. Bob says we'll spend it next time in
Thailand. I like the sound of that. Waiting area seats are pink, the King's
new favorite color- figures.

MARCH 20, Tuesday - Depart for the USA
Transfer to the airport for your departure flight United 0804
BKK 07:15 AM
3/20/2012
NRT 02:55 PM
United 9690 Operated by:
All Nippon Airways ALL
NRT 05:25 PM
3/20/2012
SFO 10:30 AM

       Bangkok to Tokyo: TOWER HEIST, Stiller, Alda (faced paced, smart,
even occasionally funny). DROWNING MONA. DeVito, Middler. Lots of fun. Who killed the harridan played by Midler. DeVito is police chief of small town populated by unsavories.

      Tokyo to San Francisco, seated between two Asians. Flight assistant Japanesing away assumes the woman in the window seat is Asian, but she replies “Speak English please”. The young true Asian man on the aisle sleeps throughout the trip only to be awakened by me when I, of great necessity, get up to stand and exercise in the rear of the plane.

     Thus ends a long journey to and from a wonderful, experience-rich Thai Journey.