2012: SEPT. 14-OCT. 1 PERU & EQUADOR TOUR
9/14/12
PERU/EQUADOR.
These notes will exist only in recollection since through Sept 19 all my notes were accidentally (this I'd do on purpose after typing and tripping as I try to follow guides through cobblestone streets?). This terrible accident might give us a chance however to both pick out the highlights and create a summary of the first week of our South American adventure. (Not! Sorry.)
Don, good man, takes us - we always nervous, albeit excited at the start of any pleasure journey - early to the airport only for us to learn that our commuter plane will be, in progressive announcements, an hour and a half late. Bob; "Il never take a commuter plane again." Me: considering our departure airport isSan
Diego , that'll be a tough principle to maintain. However
at the disgusting LA airport (LAN) there’s no line; we move fast; an attendant
finds us two seats together suddenly available in the midst of a Japanese
tourist group (at first on this scant evidence we think Peru must have a huge
Japanese population) rather than more threatening configurations.
On trip we wine in faux glasses but have saved thousands of dollars for another trip rather than fly business class. So there, elitists. It’s a remarkably smooth trip and wins the bumpless award.
Our destiny was for a late arrival
We started for the city of Lima at last until the driver’s phone rings and we return to pick up other trip compatriots, among them what we will later dub the rich
alimony ladies from Hiltonhead North Carolina and a bandan headband wearing very high energy ChineseAmerocan lady (Alisa) who will later be called Yoko Ono by all because of that resemblance. She’s complicit.
The first hotel we stop at is for the "lo budget" people. We’re disappointed because it looks charming but turns out our hotel is closer to the city center, the Mille Flores district, a smart modern hotel just blocks to the ocean and shopping, not that our schedule will afford much time for neighborhood strolling. To bed at 3 am, we don't bother to unpack knowing we have to face an early morning orientation the next morning but fortified at least by a good breakfast in the little cafe.
9/20 THURSDAY
PERU/EQUADOR.
These notes will exist only in recollection since through Sept 19 all my notes were accidentally (this I'd do on purpose after typing and tripping as I try to follow guides through cobblestone streets?). This terrible accident might give us a chance however to both pick out the highlights and create a summary of the first week of our South American adventure. (Not! Sorry.)
Don, good man, takes us - we always nervous, albeit excited at the start of any pleasure journey - early to the airport only for us to learn that our commuter plane will be, in progressive announcements, an hour and a half late. Bob; "Il never take a commuter plane again." Me: considering our departure airport is
On trip we wine in faux glasses but have saved thousands of dollars for another trip rather than fly business class. So there, elitists. It’s a remarkably smooth trip and wins the bumpless award.
Our destiny was for a late arrival
We started for the city of Lima at last until the driver’s phone rings and we return to pick up other trip compatriots, among them what we will later dub the rich
alimony ladies from Hiltonhead North Carolina and a bandan headband wearing very high energy ChineseAmerocan lady (Alisa) who will later be called Yoko Ono by all because of that resemblance. She’s complicit.
The first hotel we stop at is for the "lo budget" people. We’re disappointed because it looks charming but turns out our hotel is closer to the city center, the Mille Flores district, a smart modern hotel just blocks to the ocean and shopping, not that our schedule will afford much time for neighborhood strolling. To bed at 3 am, we don't bother to unpack knowing we have to face an early morning orientation the next morning but fortified at least by a good breakfast in the little cafe.
9/20 THURSDAY
Guide discussion turns to the dreaded Shining Path. Tourism
started 1988 but Shining Path stopped it until '90's. 15 years 60,000 killed
during their reign, sponsored by jungle drug dealers though in actuality initiated
by theorist professors. Hector, our guide, thinks Fujimori did great things for
the country. Before, Hector had to get off the street per curfew, stand in
lines for food. He saw dogs on lamp posts as a warning to anti-Shining Path politicians.
His uncles were killed by these hoodlums.
9/21/2012 FRIDAY
Nice breakfast, great yogurt. I chew some coca leaves I
dropped in hot water. Our young guide is Broz, (hunky) a local. It’s a bright
cold day. Tomorrow will be The Day of the Youth. So far there's been a parade a
day.
The spiel: On Lake Titikaka- there’s a a different culture,
language, facial features, (darker, more asian) the Amaras. Titicaca is the
sacred lake of the Incas of the Andes . It is
the highest navigable lake in world sharing with la Paz
Bolivia .
It’s the largest lake in South America , 3000
sq miles, 1000 feet at its deepest part. Normally the fishing technique is by net.
We’re instructed to say Kamisaraki (welcome) and Waliki (reply).
“Titi is puma kaka stone. Incas said this was a sacred lake because without it there’d be desert.”
“Titi is puma kaka stone. Incas said this was a sacred lake because without it there’d be desert.”
Once at the island community, the little affable island “president”
explains how they make a floating island, that they live together 2 or 3 years
before deciding to marry.
We introduce one another, our relationships, children. Applause at each announcement. We--no children. No applause. Beautiful handicraft. Show how they make boats - fill with 1000 plastic bottles. The house is just a 6x5 tiny hut with blankets. They cook elsewhere.
We introduce one another, our relationships, children. Applause at each announcement. We--no children. No applause. Beautiful handicraft. Show how they make boats - fill with 1000 plastic bottles. The house is just a 6x5 tiny hut with blankets. They cook elsewhere.
As we set sail on the Mercedes Benz of floating boats I take
the top floor. Tourism supports the opportunity to go on to secondary and
higher education – for which they row 45 minutes to the mainland - few return
to the community. There are 70 of these floating islands. Population 2500
people.
Next: Finding it difficult to breathe and hike up to the
“tombs”. Sillistani means fingernails. Spaniards didn't destroy these towers
but found gold. They, bastards, used dynamite.
Excellent lunch we find at Mojsas, one of 2 restaurants Hector
recommends. It offers a nice perch with a view over the main plaza to the mountains.
White wine. They serve olives and bread. Bob club sandwich Reuel chicken
sandwich on traditional bread. Both very satisfying.
Charo is our afternoon guide. Good English. I sit with Yoko Ono on the bus. Charo like all guides lets us know about the toilets.
Charo is our afternoon guide. Good English. I sit with Yoko Ono on the bus. Charo like all guides lets us know about the toilets.
Of the pre-inca Quoia: Great medical people who see the world
divided into 3 levels: Condor. Puma. Snake.
They built these burial towers because bad underground.
The Inca's got Lupacas to help fight these Quoias and therefore won.
Then the Inca's took Quoia architects north.
There were more than 12 million people in the Inca empire which controlledBolivia , Argentina
and Peru .
All of them were meat eaters. 1 alpaca baby a year. Fetus offering to god.
Therefore their key to survive was agriculture. Dry seasons. Needed to offer humans to gods. Separated from families and brainwashed; it’s an honor. All want to be chosen. Shaman chose. She walks days from convent to the Shaman’s temple. She's doped by shaman with cocaine, then killed. Death by aneurism from a blow [make a great play]!
Of 200 varieties of coca only 3 have cocaine.
Of these Sulistani tombs. Kept improving them. Incas servants buried with master. Everyone but 2 sons were left to preserve lineage.
Died physically only facing east for 1st son put in fetal position for rebirth spiritually and mentally. Quoia Arcitecture round; Inca is square.
Inca trapezoid. Quoia opposite. Inca tried to imitate.Lima discrimated against Amara and Quechua
people. It’s13,200 feet and hard to breathe and walk. But lichen grows in rocks
because air is pure.
They built these burial towers because bad underground.
The Inca's got Lupacas to help fight these Quoias and therefore won.
Then the Inca's took Quoia architects north.
There were more than 12 million people in the Inca empire which controlled
All of them were meat eaters. 1 alpaca baby a year. Fetus offering to god.
Therefore their key to survive was agriculture. Dry seasons. Needed to offer humans to gods. Separated from families and brainwashed; it’s an honor. All want to be chosen. Shaman chose. She walks days from convent to the Shaman’s temple. She's doped by shaman with cocaine, then killed. Death by aneurism from a blow [make a great play]!
Of 200 varieties of coca only 3 have cocaine.
Of these Sulistani tombs. Kept improving them. Incas servants buried with master. Everyone but 2 sons were left to preserve lineage.
Died physically only facing east for 1st son put in fetal position for rebirth spiritually and mentally. Quoia Arcitecture round; Inca is square.
Inca trapezoid. Quoia opposite. Inca tried to imitate.
Now a fascinating visit to a native household. Medicine
snake in alcohol.
3 of the men in one bed. They give us bread. It is absolutely delicious.
A simple life. Everyone knows his/her role. They have beautiful infectious smiles.
English railroad engineers gave those hats to the women cooks as presents and it took on.
3 of the men in one bed. They give us bread. It is absolutely delicious.
A simple life. Everyone knows his/her role. They have beautiful infectious smiles.
English railroad engineers gave those hats to the women cooks as presents and it took on.
Gorgeous scenic views of mountains, lakes and city below.
CNN Iinternational break. Then meeting with Hector about
schedules. Strange that couple also going to Ecuador has different schedule.
They leave at 2 in the AM we at 9:30 AM. Sounds like we got better deal.
Discovering that restaurant we had lunch at is #1 in Puno
(admittedly not famous for its cuisine) and it's #1 with us so we return for
dinner. White wine for Bob, red for Reuel. Bob a beef stir fry, Reuel the
alpaca, whose sweaters we've felt and whose animals we see everywhere in front
of the haciendas in the society of llamas and such.
We talk of the differences in the lives of the Uros and the farm family both of whom we visited today. Bob really likes the farm family’s hacienda: "It's got good bones."
We talk of the differences in the lives of the Uros and the farm family both of whom we visited today. Bob really likes the farm family’s hacienda: "It's got good bones."
9/22/12 SATURDAY PERU
Last day in remarkablePeru
- well I guess almost since we'll fly from Lima
to Quito Sunday
morning. Hector handing me my daily water bottle as I stand here on the lobby with
the luggage as we get ready to somehow get from here to there, in this case
Puno to Lima .
Last day in remarkable
Charo: We learn that smuggling is a major industry in Puno
because it's on the border of Bolivia .
Today it's Saturday and market day. The streets are full of trading.
Drinking is apparently a problem here, no smoking though.
She talks of the 15 day continuous celebration of dancing. And drinking. Expensive costumes. A religious festivity. Next Carnival.
Unfinished houses all over but that’s because if finished, they must pay taxes. Even leave pretend rebars - reason why the face of Puno is not so pretty.
Charo tells us that few who go on to university from the floating islands return because they don't get government assistance. This society will thus disappear.
Wonderful story about blessing of miniature by shaman and priest. Mother earth and God give us what we need. Combining religion. These people will get the best of both worlds, taking no chances.
Their main meal is breakfast – soups, quinoa.Peru 's gift to the world: potatoes.
Next will be quinoa. Contains licinen, more proteins. Note: buy quinoa.
Children work. At 7 yes old, they carry 20 lbs.
Llamas, stubborn, will carry 70 lbs.
A woman carries 160 lbs.
Men: It’s better to have 2 wives than 4 llamas. No problems with ostoperosis. Eat highly nutritious food. Chew coca leaves. Lunch. Boiled potatoes and fava beans,. Sometimes corn. They eat in the field with drink. Don't waste time. Dinner. Quinoa. Tiny bread. Herb tea. Go to bed early and rise at 4am. Roosters are the alarm. 1 bed for family. Children in middle. Talk to each other in bed.
On islands, avoid childbirth. Shaman advises. Tea e cypris, rue,Tyne , mint
Midwife knows whether it will be a boy or girl by taking pulse.
Airport. Conversation with my seat mate also going toEcuador .
Apparently 8 people from their group are seriously ill. They think it was the
breakfast buffet. One of 2 is Hospitalized and returned to the US . There but
for . . .
Today it's Saturday and market day. The streets are full of trading.
Drinking is apparently a problem here, no smoking though.
She talks of the 15 day continuous celebration of dancing. And drinking. Expensive costumes. A religious festivity. Next Carnival.
Unfinished houses all over but that’s because if finished, they must pay taxes. Even leave pretend rebars - reason why the face of Puno is not so pretty.
Charo tells us that few who go on to university from the floating islands return because they don't get government assistance. This society will thus disappear.
Wonderful story about blessing of miniature by shaman and priest. Mother earth and God give us what we need. Combining religion. These people will get the best of both worlds, taking no chances.
Their main meal is breakfast – soups, quinoa.
Children work. At 7 yes old, they carry 20 lbs.
Llamas, stubborn, will carry 70 lbs.
A woman carries 160 lbs.
Men: It’s better to have 2 wives than 4 llamas. No problems with ostoperosis. Eat highly nutritious food. Chew coca leaves. Lunch. Boiled potatoes and fava beans,. Sometimes corn. They eat in the field with drink. Don't waste time. Dinner. Quinoa. Tiny bread. Herb tea. Go to bed early and rise at 4am. Roosters are the alarm. 1 bed for family. Children in middle. Talk to each other in bed.
On islands, avoid childbirth. Shaman advises. Tea e cypris, rue,
Midwife knows whether it will be a boy or girl by taking pulse.
Airport. Conversation with my seat mate also going to
Empanadas with service hits the spot. Lima again.
Back at our hotel, 45 minute ride, we at last go for a walk on our own in this the Mile Flores district. Appropriately we find a bustling flower show and market on the park after viewing the rather lovely Inglesias of the virgin (longest fingernails Bob notes). Then to our hotel bar for a martini (experiment -) and a glass of wine. Note to self, and not the first time. order vodka, No vermouth. They use sweet. And bobs chardonnay was table wine.
jacuzzi: Reuel takes brief jacuzzi soak - what the doctor ordered.
Dinner - nice group. B's soup warm. R's cervice quite nice. Our saltado beef not great. Dessert sort of very sweet fried donut.
Back at our hotel, 45 minute ride, we at last go for a walk on our own in this the Mile Flores district. Appropriately we find a bustling flower show and market on the park after viewing the rather lovely Inglesias of the virgin (longest fingernails Bob notes). Then to our hotel bar for a martini (experiment -) and a glass of wine. Note to self, and not the first time. order vodka, No vermouth. They use sweet. And bobs chardonnay was table wine.
jacuzzi: Reuel takes brief jacuzzi soak - what the doctor ordered.
Dinner - nice group. B's soup warm. R's cervice quite nice. Our saltado beef not great. Dessert sort of very sweet fried donut.
Milagros and night tour: incredible water park very
populated with families even at this later hour. 7 years earlier it was a drug
haven until the mayor drove the water park idea. Great water spectacles. Sound
light shows. Lazers. Water tunnel we go through – and we don't get too wet.
Back. Hugs. Give Hector $12 a day - $100, sort of the minimum because he was not a great guide/tour leader on balance.
9/23/12 SUNDAY
Back. Hugs. Give Hector $12 a day - $100, sort of the minimum because he was not a great guide/tour leader on balance.
9/23/12 SUNDAY
Carlos our guide meets us in
Hotel Quito. Glorious views of mountains though our room
faces lesser side, still city surrounded by mountains.
Wonderful view from top floor cocktail lounge but it's Sunday. No cocktails! Religion ruins everything. Anyway, Bob, shaky, takes advantage of this Un-happy hour to nap.
CNN announces Emmy awards show now. We basically watch MSNBC all the time so might as well be here. We discover that we have a balcony from which to view the twinkling lights of the city crawling up the mountains in the cool (but not too cool) night air. Some technical confusions- do we need a converter? No. Same 120 voltage as in US just as same currency. Somehow though to puzzlement of front desk I can't get wi-fi.
Our room service arrives shortly. Instead of trying either of the 2 recommended restaurants across the street we acknowledge that Bob is feverish and Reuel has a bad stomach-Ay yai- and try the indigenous chicken soup which is delicious- more a pea soup. And share a club sandwich. Perfect invalid medication
Wonderful view from top floor cocktail lounge but it's Sunday. No cocktails! Religion ruins everything. Anyway, Bob, shaky, takes advantage of this Un-happy hour to nap.
CNN announces Emmy awards show now. We basically watch MSNBC all the time so might as well be here. We discover that we have a balcony from which to view the twinkling lights of the city crawling up the mountains in the cool (but not too cool) night air. Some technical confusions- do we need a converter? No. Same 120 voltage as in US just as same currency. Somehow though to puzzlement of front desk I can't get wi-fi.
Our room service arrives shortly. Instead of trying either of the 2 recommended restaurants across the street we acknowledge that Bob is feverish and Reuel has a bad stomach-Ay yai- and try the indigenous chicken soup which is delicious- more a pea soup. And share a club sandwich. Perfect invalid medication
Our stomachs are indeed iffy. We've both had a little of Monteza's revenge the last few days. Think Imodium. Gone one extreme to another - the tourist's problem. Either you go out into the world and face some consequences or stay home to ho hum.
%46 LAN
Gas cheap $2 gallon for premium. Subsidized by state
2000 was when
Food.
Tomorrow luggage out 7: On the road 7:45.
Our hacienda what can I say?
9/24/12 MONDAY EQUADOR
Introductions at the tour meeting.
Introductions at the tour meeting.
Antonia-Miami
Debbie/Tim m oo
Julie and family
Darius Poland
Henry Phoenix
Debbie/Tim m oo
Julie and family
Darius Poland
Henry Phoenix
Goes too fast for me to record it. Note: Use record feature
in circumstances like this.
Seat rotation
094307789 is Carlos' cell
Dial from phone book
Jeraldo driver
Basic salary inEcuador
is $300 month.
2 ranges of Andes mountains
Only one chamber no senate consisting of120 pp.
Quito 2.5 mill
EQUADOR 14 mill. 30% live in country
Basilica (commemorates) de
0, late 19th c baroque church started w gargoyles, the rest with fauna, such as alligators, boobies etc
Plaza la independencia. Main plaza used to have bullfighting until they built a fountain – that meant water for the people.
Statue commemorating battles for independence from Spaniards on
May 24, 1822. DefendedQuito .
13 years. Since 1830 it's called Ecuador (after that “imaginary”
line).
Presidential palace since 1808. (Pres Correa doesn't live here.)
La campanile de Jesus is magnificent. Almost all gold leaf - 40 pounds solid gold. All Arches.Quito
rainy 70". Protected. -
The winged virgin very campy and is very prevalent.
Stop at The panama hat store but really made inEcuador .
There is a service in the beautifulSan
Francisco church but in need of repair. Bob asks
Carlos why.
Takes time and money. 1987a wall broken took a year to restore.
Carlos underscores that this is a cultural not a shopping tour.Quito city 43 miles long.
No is wealthy. View makes the difference.
Ecuador
is 65% catholic. 400 Jewish families. In cities only old people go to church.
In villages more religious. Also practice pagan religion. This duality iis
called Religious synchronism. Solar religion. Celebrate the sun and moon.
New airport outside of city to replace old in middle of city.
Ecuador small- size of Arizona , England .
Owns a portion of Antarctica because of
Galapagos. Quito
very polluted be aide of drugs.
Answering a question, Carlos says Chavez is crazy andEcuador and Bolivia agree w his 20th c
socialism. EQUADOR prexy. Dry anti-American. 50-60% of imports to USA .
Most tourists USA Canada. President is looking for markets in Bolivia , Chavez ,
Iran
People need to vote because need voting certificates they receive when they vote.
"National sport is drinking." I tell Bob we're American athletes.
Newton decided
this was equator line. A GPS would show the line elsewhere. Line moves north
and south.
Middle of the World. We take obligatory (damned if I wouldn't) photo at the equatorial line and then lunch at a really nice (and cheap - yea Equador!) restaurant recommended by Carlos. Bob still queasy had nice chicken soup R a nicely seasoned traditional chicken fillet with small potatoes in a green hollandaise -style sauce plus beer.
Stop for Helados de pails. A local sherbet. Passiofruit and blackberry. Yum.
Pacha mama = mother earth
For tonight we order in advance
Bob option 1 the chicken
R option 2 the trout
C talks housing.
Gorgeous mountains/lakes. And we arrive at our picturesque hotel on a lake, our cabin room with fireplace- later blazing mysteriously after spinner, view of the lake and mountains and porch, "better than the Marriott" I tell Carlos and make him laugh - rare feat. However, ain't there always a however-it rains heavily as soon as we arrive do no sitting on the porch, besides Bob sleeps almost the entirety of the time- cocktail time and there's a wonderful rustic bar - with fireplace- before we head down to dinner, the tv is in a word strange, certainly no CNN and no wi-fi and paper thin wallbetweenus and the noisy Hispanics.x
Seat rotation
094307789 is Carlos' cell
Dial from phone book
Jeraldo driver
Basic salary in
2 ranges of Andes mountains
Only one chamber no senate consisting of120 pp.
Basilica (commemorates) de
0, late 19th c baroque church started w gargoyles, the rest with fauna, such as alligators, boobies etc
Plaza la independencia. Main plaza used to have bullfighting until they built a fountain – that meant water for the people.
Statue commemorating battles for independence from Spaniards on
May 24, 1822. Defended
Presidential palace since 1808. (Pres Correa doesn't live here.)
La campanile de Jesus is magnificent. Almost all gold leaf - 40 pounds solid gold. All Arches.
The winged virgin very campy and is very prevalent.
Stop at The panama hat store but really made in
There is a service in the beautiful
Takes time and money. 1987a wall broken took a year to restore.
Carlos underscores that this is a cultural not a shopping tour.
New airport outside of city to replace old in middle of city.
Answering a question, Carlos says Chavez is crazy and
People need to vote because need voting certificates they receive when they vote.
"National sport is drinking." I tell Bob we're American athletes.
Middle of the World. We take obligatory (damned if I wouldn't) photo at the equatorial line and then lunch at a really nice (and cheap - yea Equador!) restaurant recommended by Carlos. Bob still queasy had nice chicken soup R a nicely seasoned traditional chicken fillet with small potatoes in a green hollandaise -style sauce plus beer.
Stop for Helados de pails. A local sherbet. Passiofruit and blackberry. Yum.
Pacha mama = mother earth
For tonight we order in advance
Bob option 1 the chicken
R option 2 the trout
C talks housing.
Gorgeous mountains/lakes. And we arrive at our picturesque hotel on a lake, our cabin room with fireplace- later blazing mysteriously after spinner, view of the lake and mountains and porch, "better than the Marriott" I tell Carlos and make him laugh - rare feat. However, ain't there always a however-it rains heavily as soon as we arrive do no sitting on the porch, besides Bob sleeps almost the entirety of the time- cocktail time and there's a wonderful rustic bar - with fireplace- before we head down to dinner, the tv is in a word strange, certainly no CNN and no wi-fi and paper thin wallbetweenus and the noisy Hispanics.x
9/25 EQUADOR TUESDAY
Carlos on Correa. Gave asylum to Asange. But press doesn't have free speech.
Going to 13,500 ft. Dramatic landscape here.
Tomorrow amazon basin hot humid - morning layers starting w tshirt. Aft hot hot. Repellent. Not in am until park bus.
Spa: 6: spa pools 30m 6;30 t bath 6:30 7: massage. Provide shower cap, towel, key.
Rest 7-9:30.
N
Tomorrow:6: walk with Carlos optional. A walking shoes.
bkfst 7. Luggage out 8:30. Go 9: n
arrive at swamp river port 1:30. Lunch included 1:30
Visit native house 3:30-5:30 lodge at 6: 7:30 dinner. 2 nights. Provides rubber boots.
This is the cloud forest.Papallaca.Ecuador is a country of contrasts,
Pool@tc
Pool
Pink pill 1 every 8 hrs. Reuel
Entero each 1 every 12 hours 2 days
Quite a place. It's a huge spa hotel. Tho put room is almost primotivo, the hotel has unique charms, for. Example the unlock thermal pool outside our room which I enjoy later. But meanwhile we have our scheduled spa package adventure. At. Breakfast Carlos sits w us - think he's partial to us talks about expectation when I said will I see monkeys overhead in the Amazon, he replies poetically that a visitor should have an empty glass of expectations; he will fill it littleb by little. Also we will have. Only one hike thru rainforest because no matter how much you hikeot it's still the same 360days a year.
add to WED.we're inprovince
of Napo
OK after our canoo ride (reminiscent ofThailand ) we're in our river view
room with attached balcony and a hammock. Hooray!
Which hammock I learn to alight- getting out less easy but it is a joy swinging on ones balcony above the rover.
We arrive at Anaconda island--the winds buffet us and the children ply us with flowers. We arrive at an indigenous houseoss Martha's house and sit around a fire pot like a sandbox. Roberto is our naturalist-young man who greeted us when we arrived. He translates for a native guide who Demonstrates how they make chi cha which sustains them.
Traiditionally women would chew eucha to give it fermentation.
grates sweet potatoe mixed w water. Waiusa is natural Viagra.
Bob won't let me eat a larva because of my delicate stomach. O well.
Blogun demo.
Canoe to Pottery house. Again smokey Pit. Only women do it-mother earth etc.- pure clay from amazon. Roberto says everything she uses I'd found on the jungle- like everything here. Traveling thru pre Andean mountains now. 100 million yrs old. Flora changing before our eyes.aawhlhhlsypysgAtAY
8:30 tomorrow. Wear socks. Canoe. Walk. Group 1. Roberto longer. Canoe. Balsa river raft 40 min. Bring. Plastic bagCanoe to lunch. 3:30 options. 7:30.
We share a 1/2 bottle of sauv blanc pre dinner and enjoy the buffet. Chicken soup delicious. And also what the doctor ordered (or rather Bob's on our last cruise) plenty of rice. I add some chicken and talapia - -- really good. Perhaps not as "light" as the young hotel doctor prescribed.
Less diarrheic but still not normal. We sit unsurprisingly w very pleasant contractor couple from Stockton ( they met 42 yrs ago thru church ahem) but I want to xpand our horizons and sit once w the lesbians - at least I think they are. Tennis partners? But move away from the family of six -- bob not fond of the patriarch ) they're actually characters and immensely enjoying themselves.
Carlos on Correa. Gave asylum to Asange. But press doesn't have free speech.
Going to 13,500 ft. Dramatic landscape here.
Tomorrow amazon basin hot humid - morning layers starting w tshirt. Aft hot hot. Repellent. Not in am until park bus.
Spa: 6: spa pools 30m 6;30 t bath 6:30 7: massage. Provide shower cap, towel, key.
Rest 7-9:30.
N
Tomorrow:6: walk with Carlos optional. A walking shoes.
bkfst 7. Luggage out 8:30. Go 9: n
arrive at swamp river port 1:30. Lunch included 1:30
Visit native house 3:30-5:30 lodge at 6: 7:30 dinner. 2 nights. Provides rubber boots.
This is the cloud forest.Papallaca.
Pool@tc
Pool
Pink pill 1 every 8 hrs. Reuel
Entero each 1 every 12 hours 2 days
Quite a place. It's a huge spa hotel. Tho put room is almost primotivo, the hotel has unique charms, for. Example the unlock thermal pool outside our room which I enjoy later. But meanwhile we have our scheduled spa package adventure. At. Breakfast Carlos sits w us - think he's partial to us talks about expectation when I said will I see monkeys overhead in the Amazon, he replies poetically that a visitor should have an empty glass of expectations; he will fill it littleb by little. Also we will have. Only one hike thru rainforest because no matter how much you hikeot it's still the same 360days a year.
add to WED.we're in
OK after our canoo ride (reminiscent of
Which hammock I learn to alight- getting out less easy but it is a joy swinging on ones balcony above the rover.
We arrive at Anaconda island--the winds buffet us and the children ply us with flowers. We arrive at an indigenous houseoss Martha's house and sit around a fire pot like a sandbox. Roberto is our naturalist-young man who greeted us when we arrived. He translates for a native guide who Demonstrates how they make chi cha which sustains them.
Traiditionally women would chew eucha to give it fermentation.
grates sweet potatoe mixed w water. Waiusa is natural Viagra.
Bob won't let me eat a larva because of my delicate stomach. O well.
Blogun demo.
Canoe to Pottery house. Again smokey Pit. Only women do it-mother earth etc.- pure clay from amazon. Roberto says everything she uses I'd found on the jungle- like everything here. Traveling thru pre Andean mountains now. 100 million yrs old. Flora changing before our eyes.aawhlhhlsypysgAtAY
8:30 tomorrow. Wear socks. Canoe. Walk. Group 1. Roberto longer. Canoe. Balsa river raft 40 min. Bring. Plastic bagCanoe to lunch. 3:30 options. 7:30.
We share a 1/2 bottle of sauv blanc pre dinner and enjoy the buffet. Chicken soup delicious. And also what the doctor ordered (or rather Bob's on our last cruise) plenty of rice. I add some chicken and talapia - -- really good. Perhaps not as "light" as the young hotel doctor prescribed.
Less diarrheic but still not normal. We sit unsurprisingly w very pleasant contractor couple from Stockton ( they met 42 yrs ago thru church ahem) but I want to xpand our horizons and sit once w the lesbians - at least I think they are. Tennis partners? But move away from the family of six -- bob not fond of the patriarch ) they're actually characters and immensely enjoying themselves.
9/26/12 WEDNESDAY ECUADOR
6 am Bright and bushy tailed little group for Carlos' birding expedition, 6 of us + C.
Particular area for hummingbirds.
Medicinal trumpet plant. 10081 ft.
4000 species of orchids here.
Trees need more time to grow at this height.
Red breasted taninger (scarlet)
Puma machee - hand- grows at this
Height.
Taxo passion fruit passion of Jesus
Species invade these trees. Ecause humid ESP. Bromiads
Cho cho plant seeds good for osteoporosis
We look up at the erupted volcano. We are in the crater.
--The clouds come from the Amazon basis.
This good soil is volcanic. Therefore Ecuadpr is self sufficient. Plus 12 hours sun, 12 hours dark. 2 seasons - sometimes both in one day.
Amazing scenery as we descend to Amazon basin. Lush and Green.
Ecuador
is a transit country for drugs.
6 am Bright and bushy tailed little group for Carlos' birding expedition, 6 of us + C.
Particular area for hummingbirds.
Medicinal trumpet plant. 10081 ft.
4000 species of orchids here.
Trees need more time to grow at this height.
Red breasted taninger (scarlet)
Puma machee - hand- grows at this
Height.
Taxo passion fruit passion of Jesus
Species invade these trees. Ecause humid ESP. Bromiads
Cho cho plant seeds good for osteoporosis
We look up at the erupted volcano. We are in the crater.
--The clouds come from the Amazon basis.
This good soil is volcanic. Therefore Ecuadpr is self sufficient. Plus 12 hours sun, 12 hours dark. 2 seasons - sometimes both in one day.
Amazing scenery as we descend to Amazon basin. Lush and Green.
9/27 THURSDAY ECUADOR
Wake up in mid PF night to hear sound of the river thru the screen ) they don't use windows in this climate) and then to see the beautiful, serene sight of the river, the bank and the hills in Sillhouette. Contrasts against the less enchanting moments, the visit to the native house with the nervous aggressive children that went on a bit too long, but there were elements that were fascinating (and I think the flash storm curtailed some other activities) such as the ceramics demonstration- and we purchase a vase short on Quetchuan symbolism but long on mid-century design. In and out of long boat canoes but that was yesterday .
Returning from our 2 hour trek through the rain forest--a test of our touristic mettle indeed. Writing of this in retrospect because Bob advised me not to take the iphone because I planned to take the balsa raft adventure downstream after the hike-- a potential danger for the too-valuable phone but less so for the more expendable digi camera. However, weather conditions pushed the river too high for safety and that event was canceled.
Nevertheless the rain forest- where it rained ceaselessly, and we - the so-called slow group (one of our thermal companion ladies said of the fast group- which had an uphill climb at the end, otherwise same, that it was torture) needed to focus on not slipping on the roots imbedded in the mud as we made our way up and down the trail despite our requisite hotel-supplied rubber boots. Speaking of which, mine pinched terribly and even walking was painful--my fault since we were given a choice of boot sizes. Charles (also a Carlos) our native guide would stop at different species of trees and with his machete chop off branches and demonstrate that this is good for healing, this natives used to communicate by tapping the branch to drum effect, this sap is rubber from the rubber tree, this hard wood makes blow guns, this bamboo tree makes rafters (so much thicker than those outside our kitchen window), this is cork, etc. I of course volunteer to eat the live lemon ants he slices from a branch (they taste as I announce to our uninitiated group " like tiny ants". The fecundity is scary. A person lost would be swallowed up by the ever-growing vegetation. No animals. They moved away from hunters to the highlands or died out from overuse by the natives.
Carlos had the good sense not to announce that we needed to do a zip ride across a chasm. (this is like "The Survivor.)
Wow as I write this from the serenity of our room there's a squall, at least a huge drenching rain- actually very pleasant. Hey we signed up for the Amazon after all. I think I'll try the hammock outside to be closer to the torrent and the scene. Bob comes out. "it's wonderful he says, not having to worry about other peoples's roofs. LikeThailand [when we experienced a
monsoon] same volume of rain but no wind. "
Back to this morning's trek, good thing Carlos didn't tell us in advance about the zip over a chasm, I might have stayed home, but I wound up enjoying it legs up tally ho and vowing to try zips again. Felt less secure on the long rope bridge but did get to the other side. And thank God for the walking stick we each got To help us woth footing. Bob and I only slipped once Miraculously avoiding mud-baths.
Oops just dosed - nothing like a dry hammockIn the rain. (Next time in PV get one.) Don't want to miss our massage appointments. $45 for one hour. At last lap canoe heading toward dry land to cast off our life vests and our rubber boots- lets find the bar and get a massage.
Make massage reservs share a bottle of cab with Christone at lunch - enjoyed cow tail soup- and conversation with NY/Quito couple (with family of seven) she shushes him to little effect when he to my questions tells of his background as son of military gov of this province (aha) they are torn between NY and here tho noticing in currect Correa anti-Americanism that they as elites are losing sway with the populace. B eing taxed more too. I ask if poor are benefitting more. She anglo - a translator (he's an architect they met in Ecuador university) answers yes but not sure how it will turn out - Correa now anti-corruption but generally power wants more power. I agree.
Having great afternoon. Nice to simply unwind, especially in
This setting away from everything. On the Amazon for God's sake. So after my very relaxing - she seemed to know where it was problematic, my poor feet for example and tense neck - massage in open hut over river while Bob has his, I go to town (metaphorically- there is no town) and buy 2 zumba (tie dyed) trousers (1 large one medium it's a crapshoot) and one pair of linen-like shorts for total $25.
Tomorrow
Luggage out 7
Out 7:45
Waterfall 1,50
Pass 1.50
ivory
Banjos
Hacienda
7:15 farewell dinner
Wear it's cold at hacienda
Wake up in mid PF night to hear sound of the river thru the screen ) they don't use windows in this climate) and then to see the beautiful, serene sight of the river, the bank and the hills in Sillhouette. Contrasts against the less enchanting moments, the visit to the native house with the nervous aggressive children that went on a bit too long, but there were elements that were fascinating (and I think the flash storm curtailed some other activities) such as the ceramics demonstration- and we purchase a vase short on Quetchuan symbolism but long on mid-century design. In and out of long boat canoes but that was yesterday .
Returning from our 2 hour trek through the rain forest--a test of our touristic mettle indeed. Writing of this in retrospect because Bob advised me not to take the iphone because I planned to take the balsa raft adventure downstream after the hike-- a potential danger for the too-valuable phone but less so for the more expendable digi camera. However, weather conditions pushed the river too high for safety and that event was canceled.
Nevertheless the rain forest- where it rained ceaselessly, and we - the so-called slow group (one of our thermal companion ladies said of the fast group- which had an uphill climb at the end, otherwise same, that it was torture) needed to focus on not slipping on the roots imbedded in the mud as we made our way up and down the trail despite our requisite hotel-supplied rubber boots. Speaking of which, mine pinched terribly and even walking was painful--my fault since we were given a choice of boot sizes. Charles (also a Carlos) our native guide would stop at different species of trees and with his machete chop off branches and demonstrate that this is good for healing, this natives used to communicate by tapping the branch to drum effect, this sap is rubber from the rubber tree, this hard wood makes blow guns, this bamboo tree makes rafters (so much thicker than those outside our kitchen window), this is cork, etc. I of course volunteer to eat the live lemon ants he slices from a branch (they taste as I announce to our uninitiated group " like tiny ants". The fecundity is scary. A person lost would be swallowed up by the ever-growing vegetation. No animals. They moved away from hunters to the highlands or died out from overuse by the natives.
Carlos had the good sense not to announce that we needed to do a zip ride across a chasm. (this is like "The Survivor.)
Wow as I write this from the serenity of our room there's a squall, at least a huge drenching rain- actually very pleasant. Hey we signed up for the Amazon after all. I think I'll try the hammock outside to be closer to the torrent and the scene. Bob comes out. "it's wonderful he says, not having to worry about other peoples's roofs. Like
Back to this morning's trek, good thing Carlos didn't tell us in advance about the zip over a chasm, I might have stayed home, but I wound up enjoying it legs up tally ho and vowing to try zips again. Felt less secure on the long rope bridge but did get to the other side. And thank God for the walking stick we each got To help us woth footing. Bob and I only slipped once Miraculously avoiding mud-baths.
Oops just dosed - nothing like a dry hammockIn the rain. (Next time in PV get one.) Don't want to miss our massage appointments. $45 for one hour. At last lap canoe heading toward dry land to cast off our life vests and our rubber boots- lets find the bar and get a massage.
Make massage reservs share a bottle of cab with Christone at lunch - enjoyed cow tail soup- and conversation with NY/Quito couple (with family of seven) she shushes him to little effect when he to my questions tells of his background as son of military gov of this province (aha) they are torn between NY and here tho noticing in currect Correa anti-Americanism that they as elites are losing sway with the populace. B eing taxed more too. I ask if poor are benefitting more. She anglo - a translator (he's an architect they met in Ecuador university) answers yes but not sure how it will turn out - Correa now anti-corruption but generally power wants more power. I agree.
Having great afternoon. Nice to simply unwind, especially in
This setting away from everything. On the Amazon for God's sake. So after my very relaxing - she seemed to know where it was problematic, my poor feet for example and tense neck - massage in open hut over river while Bob has his, I go to town (metaphorically- there is no town) and buy 2 zumba (tie dyed) trousers (1 large one medium it's a crapshoot) and one pair of linen-like shorts for total $25.
Tomorrow
Luggage out 7
Out 7:45
Waterfall 1,50
Pass 1.50
ivory
Banjos
Hacienda
7:15 farewell dinner
Wear it's cold at hacienda
9/28 FRIDAY ECUADOR
All Families in Amazon do gold panning when not tourism. Tough life. Rheumatism.
Trouble w blonde dyke about our seating.
Carlos goes into political riff.
After we stop at balsa crafts factory and Biy Buy we go off to the waterfall. Bob remains in town while I did the down to the waterfall and the Up from (1 hour) and had pleasure of squeezed right there orange juice reminiscent ofMiami Beach in the 50's
as my reward.
Some take the basket ride from one side to the other to get close to the bridal (now bride and groom) waterfall. Though I'm tempted, it seems more apparent that at that height over the gorge in a flimsy basket I'd be cowering on the floor.
We dont have much time in the charming town of Banos nestled under mountains and a snow capped crater except to see a demonstration of vegetable ivory carving from a nut (save The elephants - later Carlos gives us each an animal carving. Me penguin, Bob a long beaked bird. )
Glorious scenery as we climb perilously up to the hacienda for the evening. Fernando who looks like Obama greets us warmly. We get a room in the old house. But first relax by the fire with some Chilean Chardonnay before the "farewell dinner". We sit with Antonio (originally fromColumbia ) and his wife
who is less facile in English. Antonio is irrepressible and we enjoy a lively
discussion ranging from travel (inevitable - they loved G1 India) politics and
philosophy (are we really only who we are in the present) and we bond. The
charming owner billionaire stops by and drops name of Harvard where his
daughteris a student of course. I have trout, quite nice but not brilliant and
Bob has a chicken filet flavored with cream and whole tomatoes ("something
I could have made; not special"). The portly elderly man from Cincinatti
does not change his constant expression of mild distaste -- why does he bother
traveling -- he's having knee surgery after this tour.
All Families in Amazon do gold panning when not tourism. Tough life. Rheumatism.
Trouble w blonde dyke about our seating.
Carlos goes into political riff.
After we stop at balsa crafts factory and Biy Buy we go off to the waterfall. Bob remains in town while I did the down to the waterfall and the Up from (1 hour) and had pleasure of squeezed right there orange juice reminiscent of
Some take the basket ride from one side to the other to get close to the bridal (now bride and groom) waterfall. Though I'm tempted, it seems more apparent that at that height over the gorge in a flimsy basket I'd be cowering on the floor.
We dont have much time in the charming town of Banos nestled under mountains and a snow capped crater except to see a demonstration of vegetable ivory carving from a nut (save The elephants - later Carlos gives us each an animal carving. Me penguin, Bob a long beaked bird. )
Glorious scenery as we climb perilously up to the hacienda for the evening. Fernando who looks like Obama greets us warmly. We get a room in the old house. But first relax by the fire with some Chilean Chardonnay before the "farewell dinner". We sit with Antonio (originally from
9/29 SATURDAY ECUADOR
Breakfast with Jennifer and Henry, delightful couple. FromScottsdale , Arizona
On slow way back to 1uito Carlos also inveighs against the church's repression, especially of the indigenous peoples, then ahrarian reform law; correa doing great things / doesn't
agree with his communistic politics.
Mestizo Danish Caucasian indigenous blood.
Pass thru the blue jean capital of Equador - each town has its specialty whether flowers or leather or ice cre and often a campy statue in the town square to commemorate their creative/industrial/mercantile focus.
Stopping in a town devoted to the sale of ice cream, scores of little shops all selling the same thing. For 60 cents you get Helados de Salvedo a utterly delicious frozen ice cream on a stick - our choice a pyramid of flavors. Yum.
Next stop a deli (it ain't Zabars) for provisions for a picnic lunch later in the park).
Passing by town ofLata Cungar .
Black Mama party celebrated here. The chosen paint their faces black. Dress in
costumes. Drink moonshine. Get violent.
Cotopaxi National Park
See layers of eruptions.
One hour and quarter nature walk around the lagoon. No condors nor did the clouds clear to clearly see the crater but much lagoon-side plant life And the challenge of avoiding large groupings of horse turds.
Back at our old haunt (sort of) Hotel Quito, this time a more refreshed room on the first floor overlooking the garden. Quite a nice hotel actually. We have tipped Carlos wh we quote liked $100 and Jaraldo the driver)known for his hair spin turns $50. Hugs with our special friends among the group, the Korean girls, theScottsdale and the Stockton duos.
OK here we are in the 11 th floor coctail lounge with A panoramic view of this city surrounded by mountains. On 2nd round of martini and Marguerita Henry and Jennifer (doc) join us. Much great bantering chatting. They invite us tpo visit them onScottsdale ;
i get to send Henry a video of his jumping across a stream. Eventually we settle
lovely bill and head for recommended restaurant across the street. Nice. .
Wine. Reuel a seafood mix spiced with coconut. Bob a pork thing he quite likes.
.
Sunday. Check out at 12. Drop luggage at hotel reception for evening pickup. 8 pm Maeda. 12:06 LAN. Gerardo not there for transfer.
Breakfast with Jennifer and Henry, delightful couple. From
On slow way back to 1uito Carlos also inveighs against the church's repression, especially of the indigenous peoples, then ahrarian reform law; correa doing great things / doesn't
agree with his communistic politics.
Mestizo Danish Caucasian indigenous blood.
Pass thru the blue jean capital of Equador - each town has its specialty whether flowers or leather or ice cre and often a campy statue in the town square to commemorate their creative/industrial/mercantile focus.
Stopping in a town devoted to the sale of ice cream, scores of little shops all selling the same thing. For 60 cents you get Helados de Salvedo a utterly delicious frozen ice cream on a stick - our choice a pyramid of flavors. Yum.
Next stop a deli (it ain't Zabars) for provisions for a picnic lunch later in the park).
Passing by town of
See layers of eruptions.
One hour and quarter nature walk around the lagoon. No condors nor did the clouds clear to clearly see the crater but much lagoon-side plant life And the challenge of avoiding large groupings of horse turds.
Back at our old haunt (sort of) Hotel Quito, this time a more refreshed room on the first floor overlooking the garden. Quite a nice hotel actually. We have tipped Carlos wh we quote liked $100 and Jaraldo the driver)known for his hair spin turns $50. Hugs with our special friends among the group, the Korean girls, the
OK here we are in the 11 th floor coctail lounge with A panoramic view of this city surrounded by mountains. On 2nd round of martini and Marguerita Henry and Jennifer (doc) join us. Much great bantering chatting. They invite us tpo visit them on
.
Sunday. Check out at 12. Drop luggage at hotel reception for evening pickup. 8 pm Maeda. 12:06 LAN. Gerardo not there for transfer.
9/30 SUNDAY ECUADOR
We get a late check out so can have leisurely and excellent breakfast at the view aviary restaurant - omletter made to order, etc. take in view. Reuel pleasant swim and sun in gigantic pool Bob chooses to stroll pastUS embassy and
neighb.
After check out and leaving our luggage a $5 taxi ride takes us to the Centro Historico. Much wandering the narrow streets of Colonial buildings, practically the only gringos in sight, protests snd performances here and there, we at
Last find a charming cafe restaurant in a classy hotel we blunder by with a 20th century baroque facade on e the archbishops palace - Cafe Plaza Grande. Musicians with sweet tenor voice and yes they serve wine until 4pm. Me cerviche served with toasted corn and popcorn to dip in the sauces. Brilliant. Really. I swoon. Bob ham sandwich. Ok.And every time the church bells rings a creature hooded cloak in purple comes in and waves a smokey sensor visiting tables. Our server makes sure we can take pictures with this odd thing.
Cucurucho. Prevalent during holy week,
So because this environment is perfect, we have an extra 3rd glass of wine ($4/ glass as it approaches 4pm. Perfect afternoon.
The cab ride back to th hotel is only $3 which is what it's supposed to be. We give him a $1 tip. 4:30 we lie by the lovely pool. 3+ hours to spare.
Much too early at the airport do wait for the clerks to arrive but zip thru check thru and are welcomed at the Diners Club Intenatkonal Lounge with my Priority Pass - no charge and we have little sandwiches and non alcoholic (its Sunday here in Quito) drinks in comfort. Sweet.
We get a late check out so can have leisurely and excellent breakfast at the view aviary restaurant - omletter made to order, etc. take in view. Reuel pleasant swim and sun in gigantic pool Bob chooses to stroll past
After check out and leaving our luggage a $5 taxi ride takes us to the Centro Historico. Much wandering the narrow streets of Colonial buildings, practically the only gringos in sight, protests snd performances here and there, we at
Last find a charming cafe restaurant in a classy hotel we blunder by with a 20th century baroque facade on e the archbishops palace - Cafe Plaza Grande. Musicians with sweet tenor voice and yes they serve wine until 4pm. Me cerviche served with toasted corn and popcorn to dip in the sauces. Brilliant. Really. I swoon. Bob ham sandwich. Ok.And every time the church bells rings a creature hooded cloak in purple comes in and waves a smokey sensor visiting tables. Our server makes sure we can take pictures with this odd thing.
Cucurucho. Prevalent during holy week,
So because this environment is perfect, we have an extra 3rd glass of wine ($4/ glass as it approaches 4pm. Perfect afternoon.
The cab ride back to th hotel is only $3 which is what it's supposed to be. We give him a $1 tip. 4:30 we lie by the lovely pool. 3+ hours to spare.
Much too early at the airport do wait for the clerks to arrive but zip thru check thru and are welcomed at the Diners Club Intenatkonal Lounge with my Priority Pass - no charge and we have little sandwiches and non alcoholic (its Sunday here in Quito) drinks in comfort. Sweet.
10/1 MONDAY GOING HOME
Here we are in the Houston Terminal- such lovelyAmericana to come back to. Ruby's airport
diner perfect and burgers. 3 planes to get back--Quito Miami and Houston. 16
hours in transit. Not counting the 4 hours pre-boarding pickup in Quito . About 9 1/2 hours
flying time. Don't say we don't work hard for our holidays - at least we
exercise our derrière muscles.
Here we are in the Houston Terminal- such lovely
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