WHERE IN THE WORLD ARE BOB AND REUEL? ... AND WHO ARE THIS BOB AND REUEL ANYWAY

INDIA, DELHI, BHATAN  TRIP 10/11-11/7/2018

THE BIG PICTURE

Apologies. Readers and Reuel will not experience the usual detailed notes and commentary describing this extraordinary trip. One day’s scribbling the gods ,watching from their internet cloud, snatched. Others found the graduate student spirit of note taking seriously dissipated. Is it this new reliance on the immediacy of experience that prevailed? Nah. I’m getting older. And that as it turns out is the theme for Bob and Reuel's trip. Yet there are the pics to remind us of a unique trip.

THURSDAY, FRIDAY OCT 11 and 12.
DAY 1, Friday - Depart for India
DAY 2, Saturday - Arrive in New DelhiWelcome to India! Arrive in the energetic capital city of New Delhi; meet your representative and transfer to the hotel. Time to rest and relax after your journey and acclimate to the new time zone
Overnight: New Delhi

Departing for India, Nepal, and Bhutan. I’m looking forward to the bar onboard Emirates. I also enjoy the decades old acetaminophen tablet that I took earlier. It may not do much for my troublesome acting up chronic neck pain but it does mitigate the stress of navigating airports even this hometown Alaska Air ratty one--minus lounge(!).

First class, first row (first stop San Francisco). We get to watch ourselves in the plexiglass facing us—two fat (though diet thin) cats seated sumptuously. Imagine 6 weeks later and I’ve lost 20 pounds. 148! Low carb does it. Nutrisystem provided similar results but was a pain in the ass. For now I’ll have a Bloody Mary thank you. Has all the proper nutrients. So why not another to double the benefits?

I endured a long life without taking pictures of all I experienced every 7 minute. What?

I’ve decided that large quantities of alcohol ameliorates my condition/-the neck thing. So I self prescribe. The Emirates lounge is amazing. So genteelly elegant. Booze and food to die. Well, to live? Interesting, as Anglos we’re a rarity—an "only"—in this rarified place. However, a tiny sandwich and some cheese accompanying the Chardonnay is all that’s required. We’ll meet it on the way back fat, fat, fatter,

OMG . Fabulosity on the Emirates taking us 16 hours plus to Dubai. Our pods. And the attention visited on us.Champagne of course. The attendants speak English scarily well.  Reason why Emirates is considered tops in taps.

We get a mattress. Most comfortable. If you are undergoing 26 hours of travel  hell. Kill me now if I don’t buy biz class ever. Emirates. Rah. Rah. Nat King Cole. From my kidship.  Oxtail—martini—in my pod. Bob has a chard in his. Cole so soft and sweet unobjectionable as a black man.😘 Who knew in those days what was going with on. Unforgettable. “Like a song that clings to me.”

Silverware almost too heavy to lift. Nice glass of Chardonnay. And Doris Day. My youthful sweetheart. And now that we’re old, she still is. Now they’re Pushing a French red. Why not.

My trout appetizer is wonderful.

 I arise in the middle of the night. Middle of the afternoon in Delhi. My bed is wonderful, everything is on the rich people’s plane. Even the bathroom with its burld wood lavatory past the bar where Arab type guys sitting on a divan are loudly conversing. I don’t remember how long I got to sleep. But that I did sleep is a miracle.

Breakfast—steak and eggs. With Veuve Cliqout champagne of course. Movie function doesn’t work.

Function fixed. "Being George Clooney:. About his dubbers around the world. About the industry. Fascinating. Didn’t realize what this documentary is about. The history. The complications. Translating idioms. Breathing correctly.

Once inside the spectacular Dubai lounge, Samway from Nigeria offers to shine my crappy shoes. He is on a work visa (renews every two years) and wants to go to America or Canada. I say go to Canada. He says he hears that a lot. “Is it because of your president?” “Probably.” Here it is very expensive and unlike America if he marries and has citizenship his child would still be Nigerian and not have citizenship. Everything is taxed. If you get a jaywalking ticket, that is taxed. Shine $10 he says. Tip $5.

F

inal lap is between Dubai and Delhi. 3 hrs. 15 minutes.  Captain (American or Canadian accent) says 2 hrs. 30. Narrower pods but comfortable.

Champs upon being seated. Watching “The Americans” which I don’t see at home. Confusing. I guess America is in the hands of communists c. 70’s. ? Reagan era. Espionage, secrecy. Couples are driven apart because of it. Lives, freedoms at stake. Very well acted, especially Kerry Russell.

I’m bad. I have the dinner and the chocolates. Sucker for chocolates. Self-hate.

SATURDAY OCT 13.

DELHI

SATURDAY OCT 13.

It takes us about an hour after landing in New Delhi to get greeted by our complimentary Emerites drivers—plural because one drives the luggage in a van, the other drives us in a classy car. At the hotel however at 3:45 the clerk tells us we owe an extra night, $109, because checking is 2 pm. We’re tired. I say we’ll sleep in the lobby floor. He has no sense of humor. Of our room which has a view of the emergency entrance of holy angels hospital.Bob says it has a charming old world pensione sort of feel about it, maybe. Lights out and it’s almost 5am. I don’t understand the itinerary.

Up at 7. At least Reuel is. Your body is supposed to acclimate to the country’s clock. We’ll see.

We rummage around our room which verges on charm but doesn’t quite achieve it. The safe isn’t working nor does the tv. A phalanx of maintenance people arrive, consult. The 2 English channels are found and a new safe is promised and eventually found. A hot shower is a marvelous thing after hundreds of hours traveling.

In the dining hall, for such it is—guarded over by two huge harlequin statues—the food is quite good. Spicy tidbits to accompany our scrambled eggs. We have a far corner table; the chairs are plush and comfortable so we don’t mind sitting, resting—the days mandate—and speculating about the diners. Are any our Gate 1 traveling companions, is that Anglo couple married, are they doing business with the voluble Indian man at their table! And so on.

We make reservations for a massage at 2 pm. But when the giant gym director guy tells us tips are preferred in cash we venture out to the “market” across the road, which it turns out requires us to duck the honking  automotive tuk tuks and find an atm with help of some soldiers but which yields nothing. We’re the only non-Indians we see in the crowded byways and I’m a bit abashed to say I feel uneasy. So once back the lobby manager tells us  a credit card will do.

However after some sunning by the lovely pool we go upstairs for bank cards and take up the lobby guy’s offer. It’s his sharply dressed young travel desk guy who is chosen to lead us through alleys along the market which he explains is being renovated—hence the tough terrain. He waits—chatting with a local storekeeper—while we essay the capacities of the aptly named “Yes Bank” ATM. He gets upon our safe return a 500 Rupee banknote ($7) which we decide will be the tip for the services of our male masseurs. Pity wink wink the Indians don’t allow mixed sexes in massages. We’re forced to endure the ministrations of males.

Which it turns out works very well. We’re both happy with our 60 minute massages in the well equipped salon. Attendants are in an abundance to offer us towels as we shower and take advantage of the sauna and whirlpool—yes got Bob to try it—though bubbles aplenty it’s bathtub warm.

Through the lobby with my flip flops (there doesn’t seem to be any other way to get to the junior Olympic sized pool where I do multiple laps). Bob finds a chair by the pool later and it’s not too long before cocktail hour.

Tired of International CNN and its obsession with Africa I find a Bollywood movie and its a hoot. Large corps of dancers in colorful costumes heads bobbing, legs akimbo dancing in Speed motion. Beautiful veiled maidens protected by fierce bearded warrior heroes. The genre is amazing. The tried and true formula works. And you don’t need to know Hindi to know what ‘s going on.

It takes some time to find and assemble the martinis, glasses, olives, olive picks, the now refrigerated container of “smuggled “ vodka—constantly rifling through our suitcase is a negative of this kind of travel where you move every day or two to a new location. But how else to see in fast depth the world unless you have a personal valet (or take a cruise ship—which we’re deciding is the better alternative as we age)?

It’s 6 o’clock and time to call for our club sandwich with fries (our room service tradition around the world—this one compares very well—and a bottle of wine, this time a local Shiraz-no cab in their list—which is expensive but very good.

Nighty night.

SUNDAY OCT 14

Depart for IndiaWelcome to India! Arrive in the energetic capital city of New Delhi; meet your representative and transfer to the hotel. Time to rest and relax after your journey and acclimate to the new time zone Overnight: New DelhiBegin your discovery of Delhi at the Gandhi Smriti (formerly Birla House), a museum dedicated to Gandhi, Father of the Nation. Then, drive past the imposing India Gate war memorial, Presidential Palace, and Parliament House. Understand more about Sikh culture on your visit to Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, a prominent Sikh house of worship, with its shining golden dome dominating the skyline. After lunch at a popular restaurant, visit Old Delhi. Travel on a cycle rickshaw along the bustling main street of Chandni Chowk. Stop to photograph the imposing Red Fort before your visit to Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India, with a courtyard capable of holding over 25,000 devotees. After the city tour, visit the National Museum, the largest in India, with over 200,000 works of art, covering over 5,000 years. Afterward, a "tuk-tuk" (auto-rickshaw) ride before returning to your hotel. This evening, meet your fellow travelers and Tour Manager at an orientation meeting on the remarkable experiences that await you, followed by a Welcome Dinner Overnight: New Delhi Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Davinda Singh. As usual great personality.

3 parts of Delhi. New Felhi. Old Delhi within old wall. British New D. 1066 city started.

British stayed in India over 300 years. 1611-1911. That year founded New Delhi. Lucky that it’s Sunday because terrible traffic jams. Other days.9810156404.

Were now in British area. Mahirajah’s great king had railway cars. Embassy Row impressive. High commission is part of commonwealth. Embassy not.

Mansions for members of parliament. President no power. Prime minister has power. Ministry of Defense. Architect Lutien. Red sandstone buildings.

Pass India gate.

Sikhs new religion started 1634. First a movement to not have tax. 1699 religion. 1. Never cut hair. 2. Keep comb in hair. 3. Wear bangles. 4. Wear shorts. 5. Keep dagger. 6Turban symbol of respect.

Temple has a community kitchen. one temple can even feed 100,000 people.

An extraordinary event, the volunteers at this Shikh kitchen makes food for 30,000 people 4 meals a day everyday.

Ghandi died at 5:17

79 years old died. 79.2 percent Hindus. Muslims 14%. Sikhs 2%. 5000 Jews. Bahais.

Ghandi çvv wanted India to be secular.

Ppl unhappy with secularism shot him. M. At 13.

Next is national museum. India one of oldest civilizations in world. Indus Valley.

Statue of male organ in female’s. For fertility pour milk. Shivlingum. Lots of Ganeshes, the main elephant god, and statuary we get to examine as our earphones describe them.

Lunch is in a local restaurant. I’m coming to the conclusion that I don’t much like Indian food.

Earlier we had a tuk tuk ride which was fun, it being a little open car essentially but now the harrowing yet fascinating rickshaw ride through the markets of Delhi. We ride in a little vulnerable open carriage propelled by a bicycle and its intrepid driver. Watch your head and your arms if you like them.

Back to the mosque, almost all open air for prayer, where we at least have socks on to tread unsuccessfully over pidgeon poop and imperfections in the pavement.

A little nap time at the hotel before our orientation session where when we introduce ourselves Bob reveals we’ve been together 445 years. Good for him. Davinder takes us through the usual paces.

The

MONDAY OCT 15

DAY 4, Monday - Travel to Agra
Depart New Delhi to Agra, with its enchanting past, rich heritage and architectural masterpieces. En route, visit the graceful Qutab Minar Victory Tower, the world's tallest minaret, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Upon arrival in Agra, the tour continues to the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, built of the finest Indian marble embellished with mosaics and inlay of semi-precious stones. The rest of the day is yours to enjoy all of the delights of this splendid city. Tonight, celebrate "love" at an optional evening performance of Mohabbat-e-Taj a series of plays that portray the intense love of the Shah Jahan for his wife and depicts the lavish lifestyle of the Mughal era
Optional: Mohabbat-e-Taj Show (PM)
Overnight: AgraMeals: Breakfast, DinnerEn route to Agra.

           Muslims came to India and looted temples not oalaces Pp in India are root oriented—never move—unlike America.? The market we drove through not poor—have lived there 100’s of years.

Today he’ll talk about dots and cows.

5 religions. When British left in 49, population less than a million. But today size of Delhi 1000 square miles. Lots of black money. Today demonetization. Old money pworthless. Need toaccalldeposits,taxed40%.l

Delhi no skyscraper unlike Mumbai.

Allows us

Next stop Kutup min. The tower fell down twice  after horrible trafficked highway fast going on a little used freeway. Pass huge horse racing track-/pride of India.

We stop for lunch. Nice conversation with the English couple. Bob didn’t find his vegetarian meal as spicy as I did but mixing yogurt helps. Slightly afterward I’m feeling a little queasy from it.

Dots. 6 categories. M

Kk has klColored fashion statement forehead. Hairline married. Suhaag, must be orange or red. Dot means prayed. V or u shaped dot means worship Vishnu’s. Line across it means follows Shiwa. Everybody has lotus in the body.

MPs

Vasco di Gamma came to India in 1498. Looking for a spice route.

Davinders rhetorical style is excited.

The food and

Little Taj Mahal built to be a heaven eden on earth.  4 gates welcoming people from alli corners

Bathing in the streets

A WEDDING HORSE AND RIDER 

Then there’s the inevitable cultural theatre piece—story of the Taj Mahal love affair.

So of course we buy a carpet for the Opium Den. $340. Camel’s Wool. B🏳️‍🌈🇧🇫🇧🇫din e I lost my credit cards this morning (!) , we use Bobs Amex.

Observatory. 1 and quarter brain man. Mughal said. Sun dial. 

TUESDAY OCT 16.

DAY 5, Tuesday - Visit the Amazing Taj Mahal

A memorable day as you visit the astonishing Taj Mahal, built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his beloved Queen. This is perhaps the perfect architectural monument in the world, built of white marble and precious stones over a 22 year period - considered the finest example of Mughal architecture. Afterward, visit Kalakriti Marble. The Taj Mahal inspired the Kalakriti family to become the manufacturer of fine inlaid marble work. Marvel at the museum quality workmanship as you watch a demonstration of the timely process of marble carvings, filigree and stone inlay. Then browse Kalakriti’s home furnishings and decorative items. In the afternoon, discover the red sandstone Agra Fort, with its incredible maze of walled courtyards, mosques and lavish private chambers reflecting the grandeur of the Mughal Empire; this monument has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tonight, spend an evening with a local Indian family in their home. Enjoy a traditional home-cooked Indian dinner, along with conversation about life in India today
Overnight: AgraMeals: Breakfast, Dinner 

SACRED COW EATING GARBAGE

Taj means strong Mahal means palace. It’s a mausoleum. M. 18 years. Had 14 children. 6 survived.Her wishes: don’t get remarried. he went into mourning for one year. Found architect in Iran. 22 years to build. 17th c. 83.5 meters tall. Marble and sandstone not local. Used pulleys. Millions of semiprecious stones inlaid. Chisel and thumb to engrave.

4 sons. 3rd son put father in prison. Killed brothers. Grave in middle queen. To side king. By his death technology improved Other side of TM is a river. Then 10 million rubies. Today 6 billion dollars.

Allyssa insists on taking our photos everywhere. She’s a hoot and it’s nice to have ones personal photographer. Inside we marvel at the carvings in  India never invaded anyone. Never slaves.

CAMPY SPECTACLE

Marble co. Collective. Henna. Paste. Alysa buys an elephant. 1/2 price.

Fort. 4 gates. Looks at a mosque.

Hall of public to receive complaints. Harem.

2 kinds of concubines. Out and in. Bodyguards born eunuchs. Underground for safety of royal family. Also gallows.

250 concubines and 25 wives. 5000 women helpers.

After king dies either son gives pensions; rich guys keep them. Wife rights; concubines none.

Old kings quarters. Concubines market in the green. Women shopkeepers. J  Bathrobe kerfuffle, Swim, cocktails.

6:30 on the road to home dinner at the home of Manisha, sister of a gate 1 employee more

We get to sit up front—amazing perspective of the traffic, the end of the 7 day festival, the occasional water buffalo. At end of festival they burn the demons. My ch light and excitement along the road. Clusters worshipping the goddesses.

Much fun with turbine for us guys—the ladies in their saris dancing.

Thali main course of different items.curry. Mixed veg, potato, chickpeas, puri,

DAY 6, Wednesday - Travel to Jaipur, Abhaneri Village

Depart Agra to the small ancient village of Abhaneri in northern Rajasthan. Begin at Chand Baori, one of the largest step wells in India, fortified on all sides. This unique idea, conceived by the early natives to function as a water reservoir, is located adjacent to the temple dedicated to Harshat Mata, goddess of joy and happiness. Then, stop for an unforgettable experience an authentic camel cart ride with lunch. Afterward, continue to Jaipur, gateway to the desert state of Rajasthan. Arrive in this glorious city, with its stucco buildings lining the wide streets and you'll understand why it is nicknamed the "Pink City." The city was painted its unique color in 1876 to celebrate the first visit of the Prince of Wales to Jaipur. Drive past stunning hilltop forts and glorious palaces en route to the hotel. Time to explore the bargain-filled bazaars bursting with treasures and jewelry shops galore, including Bhandari Jewelry: Jaipur’s centuries-old craft community, world-renowned for its quality and design. Bhandari Jewelry, third generation gemologists, offers a spectacular array of gems, available loose or uniquely set in gold and silver, plus local handicrafts, stone and marble carvings, and paintings. Shop to your heart's content, linger on your own or return to the hotel. Tonight, share a flavorful Jaipur dinner together with your fellow travelers
Overnight: Jaipur
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

DAY 7, Thursday - Amber Fort and the Palace of Mirrors
This morning, an excursion to the spectacular Amber Fort, a stunning fusion of Mughal and Hindu styles with its gorgeous Palace of Mirrors, incredible maze of courtyards, and lavish private chambers reflecting the grandeur of the Mughal Empire. Drive past the Hawa Mahal, the "Palace of the Winds" with its lacy ornamental façade. Arrive at the Amber Fort and ascend the hill to the ramparts by jeep. From here, you can view the breathtaking panorama of Jaipur's original city walls and the lake below. Stop for refreshments before shopping the vast collection of local handicrafts at Jaipur Handicrafts, offering premium quality handmade carpets, textiles, pashminas, pottery, and paintings. Fabrics in all colors and texture are available for loose purchase as well as custom design work. Later the tour continues to the opulent City Palace, a former royal residence, now a grand museum with an extraordinary collection of miniature paintings, costumes, and armory. Continue to be impressed while you stop at the beautifully preserved 18th century Jantar Mantar Observatory with its ingenious instruments. Tonight will be highlighted by the exotic flavors of Indian cuisine at a local neighborhood restaurant, while you're entertained by performers in traditional attire as they enact various interesting dance moves on the rhythm of the accompanying musical instruments
Overnight: Jaipur
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

FRIDAY OCT 19.
DAY 8, Friday - Samode Safari and Gala Dinner
This morning, set out on an early morning drive to Jhalana Safari Park. A local naturalist guide joins you in your park-assigned Jeep as you begin your search for elusive leopard as well as kingfishers, wild peacocks, and langurs, followed by lunch. Afterward, check into the hotel and spend the afternoon at leisure. Tonight, attend an elegant gala dinner, where a royal welcome awaits you with soldiers, horses, and camels. The evening is filled with delectable food and entertainment, featuring local dancers and musicians. The night concludes with a spectacular fireworks display!
Overnight: Samode
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner   

500 minor royalty in Registan. Sample de is the hotel of one.

We pass an effigy being readied before it’s burned for the Bussara festival.

Pass a bus of schoolgirls. All children must wear uniforms.

I like the ypung man on his scooter smiling and given me the high sign. I don’t know why I’m feeling emotional.his friend on the back seat.”

Nearing Samode bumpy road-.

 After bumpy cart

  ride nasty gooseberry apple and pleasant pAssam tea (chai) At fabulous hotel greeted by snake charmer etc. women making bread and yoghurt.

ET

For dinner we head to the family home that owns the hotel. Delhi effigies 300 feet tall.83% celebrate these holidays.

I Ask after procession (great opportunity) we see: why are these people smiling; D says  money doesn’t bring happiness. They are happy. Saying: eat now, trust god tomorrow.

SATURDAY OCT 20.
DAY 9, Saturday - Jeep Safari, Travel to New Delhi
Morning departure from Samode to New Delhi. On the way, stop for a village jeep safari to have a glimpse of the village life followed by lunch at a hotel. Afterwards, travel to New Delhi. Upon arrival, check into the hotel. Say goodbye to your India Tour Manager tonight as you prepare to embark on your next adventure
Overnight: New Delhi
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Finally take 14 year old cipro for constantly bad tummy during trip Swim in beautiful cold—invigorating-pool

Caste system

  Where u come from. Ancestors profession Ex Patel businessmen were barbers Started 1500 bc Priests/-Brahman, etc.

Professions-parts of the god

Head-priests; shoulder-soldier; thigh-banker 4th class-untouchables—not allowed civil rights.

Inferior professions: cleaners, etc.

Ghandi called them children of god

Last 20 years—quotas—affirmative action Caste system what you were not are Can’t change last name

His: arora

5000 subcastes based on profession

Caste system important in two places:

Married

; jobs

Can check credentials. What village come

Along highway

In India everybody superstitious. Chile’s so demon won’t enter your house. Black also. Horseshoe from a black horse. Hang old shoes (to kick evil).

Our driver burns incensec in bus every morning.

SUNDAY OCT 21.
DAY 10, Sunday - Arrival in Kathmandu, Nepal
This morning, meet the representative who will transfer you to the airport for your flight from Delhi to Kathmandu, "The Roof of the World," in the shadow of the Himalayas. You'll be warmly welcomed and greeted with a traditional flower garland. Time to rest before this afternoon's orientation meeting with your new Tour Manager, describing the sensational experiences that await you in Nepal
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast

Much bustle. In bags. Outta bags. The breakfast is actually good at this super modernNovatel. Just to keep track of all our things. Ai yai.

With little time to spare, our priority pass gets us into the lounge-/a couple drinks. Most of our compadres have the same idea/but stock up on lunch. A shared tiny sandwich will do for us. Lines and waiting although we’re expedited and all this for the hour and ten minute flight to Kathmandu.

Anup is our guide waiting for us after the ideal of immigration. Holiday continues in Nepal. Schools will be closed. 25 days. Then festival of light. Kathmandu 2.5 million. Everyone wants a blessing of red l mark and flower. 1/2 population moves out for the festival.

 Visa process slow because of the festival. Mgr. worked 10 years. 5 with G1. He freelances. Math degrees. Teaches.

93rd largest country. Sandwiched between China and India. Never been colonized. Has most of largest mountains in world. Therefore natural barriers. Kathmandu hub of culture. Palaces, stupas (Buddhists), temples. Traffic. But 1/2 have left now.

Flying to Chitwan. Need cash.  Outside national park. Everest tomorrow. 20 minute flight. 15 to Pokura. (for trekking.)

114.68 in hotel. $80 per person. (Keep rubies for Bhutan.)

Drinks in the bar. They’re thrown by my request for Grey Goose in martini form and charge accordingly.

Room service yields not spectacular non-veg club and ham and cheese sandwiches with a large bottle of beer to share.

MONDAY OCT 22.

DAY 11, Monday - Swayambhunath, Cooking Demonstration, Boudhanath
Rise early this morning to join the one hour optional flightseeing of Mt. Everest, the highest mountain in the world. Then, on to 1st-century Swayambhunath, crowning a hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley with its golden spire adorned with colorful prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. This World Heritage Site is one of the most recognizable symbols of Nepal; the painted eyes of Buddha follow all who ascend the worn stone steps. Crowds of pilgrims and red-clad monks circle the complex, spinning the prayer wheels while scores of monkeys prance about in irreverent groups. Continue to Durbar Square, an amazing cluster of ancient temples and palaces that symbolize the country's religious and cultural life, including sprawling Hanuman Dhoka, ancient palace of Nepalese Royalty and the Temple of Kumari, home to the Living Goddess. See the stone carved statue of ferocious KalBhairav, a colorful memorial to the Hindu God of Destruction and the Temple of the Goddess Taleju. A change of pace as you arrive at a popular restaurant for lunch and a specially arranged cooking demonstration of MoMo, one of Nepal's national dishes. Afternoon visit to Boudhanath, the largest stupa of its kind in the world. Participate in a prayer ceremony and receive blessings from the Holy Lama at this extraordinary Buddhist monument. After an outstanding day, return to the hotel. Tonight, enjoy a Welcome Dinner at a Nepalese restaurant. Afterward, we suggest a Rickshaw ride to see the city's astonishing night lit temples and palaces
Optional: Mount Everest Flightseeing (AM)
Overnight: KathmanduMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Not much sleep. We assemble at 5:45 for our Himalayas flight. We are warned there will be waiting, at first to determine if weather will permit us to fly at all. Domestic terminal of the airport is indeed ratty. My research shows the international from whichq we’ll leave for the US is little better

Scramble to see sunrise. Terry’s big camera captures the beautiful orb mine is a dot above a bus.

On the plane I’m behind the propeller. However the flight attendant shows me my photo of Everest the pyramid one. Don’t know if I can pick it out of a Lineup.

Breakfast. Minimal test.

On our way to the stupa on the hill. Domed structure can’t enter vs temple which. An enter. Today start with oldest and end with biggest.

A 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal in 2015. Old buildings damaged. 28 million in country. 4 million in Kathmandu. Occurred on a Saturday so less. Cost 8 billion. But international concern about corruption. Very fragile. Earthquakes created the mountains.

Concerned with life rather than buildings.

Rebuilding world heritage sites with IS and Chinese $.

Facial features mostly Mongole. 

Take bus to stupa.

2500 years old. Nepalese cremate bodies. Structure of stupa changes with each country. The eyes are particular to Nepal. Dome represents living world.  4 sides are the truths discovers 8 ways out of suffering. Gods watching. Always rotating in the wheels of life. 13 states to enlightenment. To get out of suffering finally.

Ring bell in temple so god will know you are asking for a wish.

Army voluntary. 19000. 80,000 police. 30,000 army police.

US returning stolen statues. Not possible from private collectors.

Education not mandated. 68% literacy. Target 100%

Required for fathers to give their property to their sons.

Same longitude as Florida but cool morning evening because of Himalayas.

Dubai Squate.kingd lived until 1960. Women are rulers here. President now.

Khumari culture. Honor as a living Hindu god. More than 300 years. Symbol of Buddhist/Hindu harmony. Choose girl from Buddhist family. Astrological alignment. Certain attributes. At end of festival sacrifice 100 water buffalo. Consumed as gift to army.

Expressions of yes and no. Shake head laterally. Before sacrifice spray animals with water for approval.&

Temple.

No monarchy left in Nepal after in 2001 royal family assassinated.0

Reason drive on left. On horse and right hand for sword.

Temple pretty much destroyed. Got their work cut out for themselves.@

Rickety rickshaw ride through market.

Low battery and we’ve miles to go. Frat.

They don’t kill cows or eat beef. "Honored as a mother but we eat as a steak."

‘5 days of the festival. Thanks for Dog, cow,   S😁dance. Or I think that's what it is.

TUES OCT 23

DAY 12, Tuesday - Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath, Mt. Everest Mountaineer
An excursion takes you this morning to the medieval city of Bhaktapur, called the "City of Devotees," a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lined with palaces, temples, statues and squares connected by a maze of pedestrianized streets. The 14th century Dattatreya Temple and the world famous Peacock Window at Tachapal keep visitors spellbound. Marvel at the intricately carved deities of the richly molded Golden Gate and enter the Palace of Fifty-Five Windows with its exquisite wood carvings. See the Lion's Gate with its guarding statues, Nyatapola, the five-storied temple in Taumadhi Square and the astonishing Bhairab Temple, dedicated to Lord Buddha. 
Then, you visit the Pottery Center where you watch a demonstration of this fine craft by skilled potters. After a village inspired lunch, you embark upon a journey to the World Heritage Site of Pashupatinath, one of the most sacred Hindu shrines in the world. On the banks of the holy Bagmati River, this temple is renowned for its beautiful architecture along with its cremation platforms spread along the river. You’ll see throngs of devotees meditating and praying on the steps throughout this sacred temple. At dinner tonight, an evening lecture and one-to-one conversation with a Nepalese woman mountaineer who has climbed Mt Everest -- you'll be inspired by her determination and courage

Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Out at 9 after pleasant breakfast conversation with Alisa.

Languages.  N speak 4 languages. Nepalese, local language, Hindi, English. Can’t get lost here unlike Thailand.

Few N movies, mostly Indian Bollywood.

 WEDNESDAY OCT 24

DAY 13, Wednesday - Chitwan National Park, Jungle ResortFlight this morning to the village of Bharatpur, with its ochre-colored thatched roof houses. Continue past small villages and terraced rice fields to the Tharu villages of Chitwan. Arrive at Temple Tiger Green Jungle Resort, nestled on the banks of the Narayani River and Chitwan National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Meet your naturalist guide for a refreshing welcome drink and briefing about the park and the many different activities available during your stay. The resort, within its own surrounding forest, is designed to adjust to the natural harmony. No doubt you'll enjoy this memorable experience in the midst of one of the world's most beautiful nature centers. Time to settle in and savor a leisurely lunch before this afternoon's very special adventure. Begin with an exciting Jungle Safari that penetrates the dense grasslands to view wildlife in their natural habitat. Tonight, a slide presentation on the local wildlife by a senior naturalist is followed by dinner at the resort's Round House. Share stories of today's adventure with your fellow travelers 
Overnight: Chitwan
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 THURSDAY

DAY 14, Thursday - Chitwan National Park, Jungle Resort
Your day is filled with wonderful adventures starting with a morning Jeep Safari. Afterward, you can choose to board a boat or paddle a canoe down the Narayani River. There'll be plenty of opportunities to view the Gharial or Mugger crocodiles as well as a variety of water birds. Then, travel a short distance by jeep inside the park stopping for a picnic lunch in this lush natural oasis. A nature walk with a trained naturalist introduces you to some of the wildlife and the huge species of birds. You'll learn more about Chitwan and its conservation efforts during your discussion with the guides. Later, an ox-cart ride to an authentic Tharu Village where you visit the museum and the homes of some of the indigenous people. In the evening, a delicious barbecue dinner accompanied by a performance by the local Tharu dance group
Overnight: Chitwan
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 Wake up with a cold. Was it the ice cold swim yesterday? Terrible task of packing a bag for our four day trip from Kathmandu and storing our big suitcases.

Just a 35 minute flight to Chitwan. App

Cute flight from K to Chitwan. Known for its tigerslllll heretigers, black bears, leopards. Tiger, bison

Child marriage. His grandma was 7. Grandpa 11. People preferred to have sons.

Now laws. Both must be 18. Option for the man. But can’t say no.caste system.

He had affair with girl abroad out of caste and older. Did not want to run away.

Elephants-gentle giant

Crops. Rice—

Rb

2 types on Bletchley macock and grey landor

Photo of baby cow 2 1/2 years old. With mother 4 years. Male and feminale fight before mating. Female tired then copulate. Live 50 years. Eat aquatic plants. Rino dung is dark. Tail 1 1/2 foot tail. Hiding. 605 rhinos in Chitwan park. One species just extinguished. Killed for horn—aphrodisiac.

23 crocodile species in world. This one is endangered.

Fasten Your seat belts were in for a bumpy ride.

Peacock and owl sightings. As to elephants. See footprints—dung certainly—and a couple being ridden.

Lovely as we approach evening. Full moon too.

Time for a cocktail  en suite before the naturalist’s slide show. This is all pretty neat. The volatile tour stock is rising today. Still . . .

Battling a cold today. Not sure there’s enough meds to combat it.

 INisel is our guide .

Lecture and slide show.

Chitwan

means heart of the jungle.full of wildlife. One of the top ten hunting grounds in Asia. Prime Ministers  (the Rama’s) ruled📱140

Years. 1911 kingGeorge killed 49 tigers here, 18 rinos. Summer no hunting. The Rama’s finished in 1950. In 1959 Tana fell from elephant saved and said no more killing. 1973 granted. 1984 UNESCO. 950 square km.

Sal forest—tall trees. Riverine forest. Grassland and pine forest. Has elephant grass.

Crocodile marsh muggers and gharial. Nepal very rich biodiversity countries.

India 22 times bigger than Nepal but fewer species.

Bison also endangered.

Starlings clustered in trees.

 Nest of the scales breasted munier.

 Breakfast

Open truck: photo of kinghfisher far away.

Birds arise in morning singing and dancing. Unlike us. Small birds small intestines, mouth

 Photo of white throated kingfisher.

 Cheetahs and leoooards very fast. L succo likiller. Kamel head guide.

They tAlkof yetis. I tell a yeta a joke.

Elephant grass used to build walls and roofs of houses,

3 armies in Nepal, British. Indian, regular army. Use elephants to patrol at night.

Male. Elephants fight before sex. Then 1 minute. To mate. Then calm. 22 months pregnancy , sleep3 hours standing up.

We wait for rhinos—no show. Vultures o verhead. Uh oh.

Pass another truck. Bob: white people waving at brown people.

Shortlegged red deer dSrting through the brush.

  

Photo of tiger print. The. Of bison Killy by a tiger.

Restroom in the bush.

NaianaripI river. F rom 9 different rivers. Largest crocodile in world. Keeps growing 60 years. Only after 29 years can recognize sexuality.

Doesn’t need to eat in winter. 4 chamber heart. 19 t imes rarer than rhino.

We pass Siberian ducks/-mate for life. Love ducks.  Vegetarian. Jamel takes a photo for me in flight.

2 tribes permitted to fish.

Park open one week March for locals to gather grass

 for their roofs.

Yes we have no pirrhannas we ha e no . . .

Hot in the life jackets.

Army will shoot anyone seen in park after dark.  Pass black ibis. Distance. The

Tiger mating. She kills meat to lure him. Copulate /2 times scayfot 3 days.iuiiikiiii

SEe. S?sxe?:.?|**

We see Fresh male tiger prints on sandy bank after disembarking. Guide calculates age height gender.

This river 2nd largest in country.

This park founded 1973.

As we eat-/delicious ethnic lunch realize the benches we sit o are from the boat we were on

Where lionmo tiger and Bice Versace.

Ox ride to Pharo village. 100 ethnic types. Unsolved history. Here since 13th c. Hindus.

The chip of the house laugh with delight when we show them the photos were taking.

Malaria eradicated 1954. DDT poison. Before that people afraid to come here.

Festivals—freedom—sleeping in the road.

Add to the roof every year. Mostly women and older men in the villages. The young men working elsewhere.

2 houses. 1 kitchen. Other LT.

Chile garden. Love spices. Love to drink. Raxcine.

Bartering system. Neighborliness. “They don’t really care about the money.”

Lung problems—life span down. Now bio gas system. A success. Collect dung and water— mix-/ produces methane gas.also good fertilizer. Only initial cost, then lifetime.

Tharu. cultural dances. 123 dialed in this country. Eat fish and spicy food. Alcohol was immunity.

Fighting Fance. Teenagers getting aggressive with bamboo sticks.

Dum Foo. 80% of pp celebrate festivals as Hindus. Holiday teenagers can choose life partners. Dancers 14-24.

Tak dance. Pharo people 17 different crops. Krishna.

Love dance.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 25.
DAY 15, Friday - Pokhara's Natural Wonders
Depart the National Park and transfer to the Bharatpur Airport for your flight to Pokhara, the second largest city of Nepal. Arrive in scenic Pokhara, home to three of the highest mountains in the world. Lunch at the hotel. Afternoon tour of some of the Pokhara Valley's natural wonders including cascading Devi's Falls, (Hell's Falls) which drops out of sight and is hidden in an underground gorge and the Seti Gandaki River, that flows throughout the city. Visit Gorkha Memorial Museum before continuing to the diverse Old Bazaar with its ethnic traders and stalls selling everything from edibles to gold -- it's definitely an interesting place to stroll. Here you also see the white domed Bindhyabasini Mandir, one of Pokhara's most important shrines, dedicated to the Goddess Bhagwati. The rest of the day is at leisure in Pokhara. Dinner is on your own
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Much distressed email to financial planner; we’re being dunned with potential fees for extra lawyerly and appraiser strategies in our efforts to unburden ourselves of our property. Set us free!

$10 each to the naturalists who were very good.

Bus over bumpy roads on the way to the airport. At least we’ll be flying to Nepal’s 2nd largest city.

Ed system. Public (1-12 free) $30-40 per year fees and private expensive $3-400 per month up to international standards, in Kathmandu schools run by embassies cater to expats. Medical training costs 60k per year. Dearth of doctors in villages. Now if 2 years in village can get scholarship for 3 year specialty study. Prefer US for PhD study. In Himalayas parents don’t want to send cchildren to schools. Use them as laborers. Now free and lunch provided and if 100% attendance on month, get 1 kg of butter. Target 100% literacy by 2030. Now literacy classes for old people in the evening.

Uniforms are required so no comparison of financial condition. Readying for the shortest flight in history.

_ Q

Airport takes usbackyo the beginnings of modern flight without the modern. I’ve got no hand carry so the inspector (they don’t have X-ray machines here of course) doesn’t  need to feel me up alas.

Pokhara

Less populated than Kathmandu, smaller valley. Heading to Davies Fall. (Named after a woman w go fell in.) Then hotel.

We’ve been having gorgeous weather throughput the tour; this day no exception.

A spurs range eastern Nepal. Himalayas western. Anipirna range 1-4. Fishtail tallest. To right of fishtail Annipurna 3 in shape of elephant.

By looking at faces can tell what region. Higher up in mountains more Mongolian although more intermarriage now.m

Tight side best restaurants. Drink by lakeside. 3:30 sightseeing. CrecA

Buffet. In restaurant Anup tells us that no one is permitted to climb Fishtail.

‘

Unobtrusive room with Ute balcony. After a rest heading towards the Ghorka museum. 1814 war with British— impossible war but British amazed by Ghurkas, made to join British army. Nepal only country where can serve in British army. Story of Ghurka alone on train saved Indian girls. Using the cookery, curved knife.

200 selected for British army—even women.

India still angry for 90 years with Gurkhas for helping British against them.

“If a man says he’s not afraid of dying  he’s either lying or he’s a Gurkha.” Said by a British officer.

Discover little Philopena Alisa was a captain in the army—as a nurse practitioner. All interesting people on the tour. Pp

4:45 wake up 5:15 to go for sunrise. 40-45 degrees.p

Phali nepalfood

Busy bee crowded

Boomerang-slow but atmosphere

SAT OCTOBER 26.
DAY 16, Saturday - Pokhara and the Annapurna Mountains
Early morning hike to the viewpoint at the Peace Pagoda; see the unforgettable sunrise over the mountain peaks. The Annapurna mountain range dominates your northern view while the sweeping expanse of the Pokhara Valley looms over the south and east. This is a not-to-be-missed experience! Return to the hotel for breakfast, followed by a visit to the International Mountain Museum. View the many exhibits focused on technique, equipment, and materials for hiking, of great interest in a country that is dominated by hikers and trekkers. The museum is in a perfect location, surrounded by the stunning Annapurna mountain range -- a favorite place for adventurers. Afterward, lunch together at a local restaurant in Pokhara. This evening, you're invited to a local family's home for dinner. There will be lots of opportunities to share great stories, local legends and delicious home cooked food
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Spectacular sunrise views.

In the mountain museum. Comparisons between Nepal and Taiwan (which is not acknowledged as a country here).

Film. Everest. 1952–Hillary. Excellent.

Anup explains to  me that the Himalayas stretch 1200 miles through several countries, China, India, Tibet and Nepal which has about 1/3 and 8 of the 14 highest peaks.   Annapurna which is behind it is part of the range.

Beautiful boy assistant is Sasin.

Stop toook at old houses. 150 years old. Living costs in Pokhara higher than Kathmandu.

Haneebar—danisbad=thanks

Home a

At lunch overlooking the lake—mountains of course in the distance. We are alone at our table so Anup joins us. I begin pelting him with questions, such as, what is gay life like. He says there’s an association called Blue Diamond for gays. Growing acceptance especially now for transgenders. (Our visa form had a box for “other”.

What I asked how would a father respond to a son coming out. He says there’s still that traditional sensibility—son must assume property etc. younger generation is more accepting.

Home dinner ina Tibetan refugee camp. Tibetan family. Arrived -1959. Son’s wife recently died of cancer. Young daughter. Father trekking guide. Mother made carpets. Jewelry shop on motorcycle. Sold souvenirs. 30 years now. 500 people in their community. Work tourism.also commercial moth to preserve culture. Verdict: these folks are so enterprising. 6 million Tibetans. 20,000 Tibetans in Nepal. Have Tibetan refugee card which allows them to travel. Nepal can’t recognize Tibet or Taiwan.

Nepal has a bad relationship with India. Modi wants to improve relations.

3rd king father of mode Bhutan. Education, . Died at 44. Son 17. Visionary king. Started Gross National Happiness. Present king. People’s king.

 B stupa square. Nap stup round with eye. Tibetan stupa.

Turn wheels

Buddha made in China. Total cost for project 100 M. Buddha 3rd eye diamond 7 M. 3rd eye too see yourself.

The money came from sponsors, mainly Singapore. Also China etc.

Health care, education is free here.

Indigenous hospital mostly old people.

10% business tax 5% income tax. Pension s.0

Cordysep Found in high land above 12000 feet. Make more money than people lower down.

Practice traditional medicine at the indigenous hospital. Belief people have that their medicines will cure all over time. Herbs collected from high mountains.

Anger, desire, jealousy,   Pride, ignorance The 5 poisons we have.

At art school. Wish tree. 4 animals each claims the tree. Phoenixes x oldest. Stand on one another. Realize they area family.

They are busy preparing for the festival tomorrow when Bhudda first broi

Buy a hanging tapestry with the four powerful animals.

At lunch butter tea. I’m barely eating—not hungry.

Chzhh. For cheers.

BOB Bank of Bhutan.

Museum.

Old days first floor animals.

Textile Museum

Documentary

Goh for men National dress. Kira women.

Weaving a national art’

Used to be woven pout of metals.

SUNDAY. OCTOBER 27.
DAY 17 Sunday - Return to Kathmandu, Ancient Patan, Farewell to Nepal
Return flight to Kathmandu for an excursion to the ancient city of Patan, known as the "City of Fine Arts." Your tour begins at the main square, filled with breathtaking Hindu temples and striking Buddhist monuments. See the old Royal Palace, dominating all others in grace and grandeur and the 16th century stone Krishna Mandir, with its 21 pinnacles dedicated to Lord Krishna. Other landmarks include the Golden Temple, and the terra-cotta temple of Mahabouddha. While in Patan, attend a lecture on Patan's restoration process. Afterwards, time to rest and freshen up before tonight's festivities. A very special home hosted dinner has been arranged just for you -- a perfect conclusion to your wonderful journey through Nepal. The friends and family of the host and hostess will join you as you bid farewell to your Tour Manager and to Nepal
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

On our way to the airport (30 minutes to Kathmandu longest yet)at and to deal with the kerfuffle of the additional Nepal Visa—Gate 1’s bad. Another gorgeous day, the mountains more beautiful in relief than ever. Llamas eewee

At airport 90 Korean students who went on a  base camp trek Anup tells me as I sit beside him on the airplane.

Here in Kathmandu pop 4.5 mill. Pokhara 300K Bob and I do a riff on Yetta commenting on the Yeti. The wisdom of Yetta in her Yettagram. Thinking it’s not good nutr ition that the Yetta only eats potato’s. So it goes as we travel back to our hotel.

Lunch to calm us after the visa kerfuffle. We’re all confused and upset. Anup finally tells us he’ll handle it. Only somewhat mollified. Everyone happy about their food. My fish curry is excellent.

Presentation of healing and singing bowls. Must be handmade. The singing bowls

3 courtyards. Main one. Hung treaties.

2 Destroyed temples being restored by Germany, Japan etc. Mrishna Mandir not destroyed made of stone\

Through skinny alleyways.

Anup

tuladharanup@hotmail.com

5:30 to lobby

Divorce rate high in Nepal. Small population growth. A few new international airports are coming. Army has public works building projects—people trust them.

54 holidays a year. But Only Saturday’s off.

Cars expensive. Audi costing $50,000 USA costs $200,000 in Nepal.

House: construction started st 1934 earthquake. Beautiful tin ceiling in LR.

Excellent horsdeuvres.

Lecturer: monuments. 1600 ad. Surrounded by huge economies of China and Moguls. So Nepalese managed trade and did well. Ideal for flow of goods. So monuments can be built. N minted currency also.

Queen Liz established east India co. Colonialuzed.

1700 when other parts of world investing, N building monuments. 1767 N won over Britain. War became expensive for N which occupied Tibet and then signed a treaty with China. 1814 war with Britain—ended trade to South. After 1816 became poor and landlocked.  Feudalism for 200 years.

2006 became a republic—bloodless coup.

2002-17 no government.

1934. 8.4 richter earthquake.

After earthquake translated from oral tradition to rebuilding monuments. Recovering the intangible.

Wood doesn’t last more than 400 years here. Use old parts and new to prevent damages.

8.4 billion for total recovery. 1/2 raised now.

Future: 80 cents of every dollar for infrastructure.

As of this year education free up to 12thgrade.

1 in 4 N living outside country—fear of the conflict crisis.

Saying 1600 can occur again.

Corruption which was rampant but improving—how to change old thinking.

Projects 3-4 years to get politically up to date. Problem locally.

Thinks there is universalally a level playing field. N needs to be strategic between China and India.

Tomorrow:’

6 wake up

6:30 breakfast

7:15 leaving

Feeling ill on plane. Big D +.

MONDAY OCTOBER 29.
DAY 18, Monday - Kingdom of Bhutan
A traditional "khada" ceremony this morning as a symbolic scarf is wrapped around you, with blessings for a serene and safe journey. Travel by flight to Paro in the spiritual mountain kingdom of Bhutan with its striking monasteries and magnificent mountain scenery. Here, you'll also see traditional dzongs dotting the landscape, a distinctive type of fortress architecture with towering exterior walls surrounding complexes of courtyards, temples, and monks' accommodations. Tucked away between China and India in the heart of the Himalayas, Bhutan remains a uniquely distinct country. Upon arrival in historic Paro, drive to the capital city of Thimphu, a fabulous blend of old and new. Time to stroll through the main square and get acquainted with your new surroundings. Tonight, an orientation meeting with your new Tour Manager about the adventure that awaits you in Bhutan, followed by a Welcome Dinner together at the hotel
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

 

Sangay is our guide. Pronounced with a hard g, “though I’m not gay” He looks like Buddha.

Only international airport, 3 domestic. Here at 7500 feet in both Thimphu and Paro.

1.20 miutes to Thimphu.

To the north India, to theSouth China. “If all Chinese pee at once, we’ll have a big flood.”

Chu means watery. Kuzuzanpo La.

Hello. 

The people eat lots of rice.

Ema dachi. Chili cheese._

Pete “this is what I was looking for. Simple living.” (They live in a Florida mansion on 10 acres.)

Arranged marriage. Don’t trust wedding, water and wedding.

Exchange 70-100.

GNH. Gross National Happiness.

zonka is the language (inside the fort)

Pop Bhutan 700,000. Capital Thimphu. 130,000 people.

17th cBhuta. Identity established. ?

G

Ladies dre ss is Kira.

G.

At bathroom stoop I retch  agnd throw up a little. Feels a little better.

we BH h. H

Fresh air helps. Too. Amalphi coast like winding road doesn’t.

Family gets only25 acres of land. King can grant more.   .

King 38, wife 28.

Kadinshay la. Thank you.

I  am really sick. Take 17 year old Cipro and sleep fitfully as Bob goes on the tour and has the included lunch.

Lecture after my afternoon bout with virus.

About Sangay

Boarding school at 13. After 10th grade left for rest of studies.

Eldest son. 2 younger brothers and sister.

Went to Delhi for college studies in English. Big change.

Tour guide in 2008. 45 days training.

3016 gate 1 introduced to Bhutan.

9 tour managers. Next year 34 Discovery groups. (I skip the dinner.)

Sangays smiling face at our door. He brings me three bananas staying it’s good for the stomach..

School. Most of the subjects taught in English. Free education through Masyers degree for good students.

Hydroelectricity generates income—to India. High tourist taxes.

B first  opened to tourism 1974.

Prayer flags colored for living.white for the dead. Higher up in the hills—the wind spreads the word.

TUESDAY OCTOBER 30
DAY 19, Tuesday - Discover Thimphu
In Thimphu, you observe monks strolling serenely in their crimson robes and workers wearing traditional ghos and kiras. Your day begins with a visit to the indigenous Medical Hospital, and the Painting School where students learn thirteen different Bhutanese crafts over the six-year course including paper making, masonry, painting, sculpture, embroidery and much more. At the National Library, you view the largest book in the world before proceeding to the Folk Heritage Museum to tour the medieval home used by Bhutan's Queen mothers. Here, you enjoy a lunch of traditional Bhutanese cuisine served in the impressive and historic courtyard. At the Royal Textile museum, view unique displays of textile designs and watch a multimedia presentation before returning for dinner at the hotel and an evening at leisure
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

My day that is the notes for our day deleted.

Memorial stupa. Saying prayers.

King 4 declared a democracy. SId what if king is bad. Tomorrow new prime minister king will give scarfs to new ministers.

Parliament 47 seats. Majority is ruling party. Country divided into 20 districts. 5 seats appointed by the king.

Zong

was built in 17th c.

1/2 of song for administration other half for monks.

We hear the monks chanting and there they are watched over by disciplinarian monks as they chant.

Man with a beard started M Buddhism. Man with a mustache his disciple started Tigers nest.

Tomorrow 8:30a.

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 31.
DAY 20, Wednesday - Memorial Chorten, Big Buddha Hill, School of Astrology, Takin Zoo
This morning, you join Buddhists performing their daily ritual of turning the giant red prayer wheels at the whitewashed National Memorial Chorten with its shining golden finial, dedicated to the third king of Bhutan. Next, drive to the Big Buddha Hill. Here, stop at the Big Buddha Temple for a visit, or for an independent meditation. Afterward, begin a moderate hike around the temple. The area offers great views of the Thimphu Valley below. End the hike at Kuensel Phodrang Park where a picnic lunch will be provided. Afternoon drive to Pangri Zampa and visit the School of Astrology, where you learn more about this very popular study followed by many families and young monks. Afterwards, drive to the Takin Zoo where you'll finally meet a Takin, the rare national animal of Bhutan. The rest of the day is yours. Perhaps shop in one of the many handicraft stores to bring some treasures back home. At dinner this evening, High School students in traditional dress will join you and bring costumes for you to try. Opportunity to dress as a Bhutanese! It will be a great photo opportunity!
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Feeling better but CNN morning shows make me feel scared as a gay Jewish man.

Here onboard festival day for Bhuddists when Bhudda descended from heaven to teach humans. “Without myths and legends there is no history in Bhutan.”

Anecdote. Traveler US phone talk to Jesus. 10K. In Bhutan local call.

Takin is national animal. Half man half cow. Man came from Tibet to Bhutan using his penis as power. People brought body of cow and head of goat and went to meadow for grass. Therefore people believed.

It’s a real animal roaming in a small zoo.

We chant ‘Om mane bene om”

108 number. 100 Buddha’s and 8 bodhisativas. Astrology 9 planets and 12 months.’

iPhones “connects the people from far away. Disconnects from those near.”

Feed pigs marijuana so bacon makes u happy.  No problem with marijuana here tho illegal grows everywhere but with drugs from Ind

We see the Takin in the distance. I guess they don’t like us. Take lots of photos of a mountain deer thinking it’s a Takim.

17620064. Sangay’s numbers

Individuals go to district court. Unhappy then to high court. Then Supreme Court. Then king. Now lawyers getting into the act.

1 or 2 murders a year.

Stop for photos of a z huff so the rovk and a gorgeous stream.

Temple for the father of the man with the beard.

Having the snickers bars that Sanjay gave us as a reward for being sensible. That is, we borrowed an iPhone from a nice local on the trail up the mountain and called to tell Sangay we were heading back down. Bob in particular was having difficulty breathing (he has a cold) and I was not having enough fun navigating the ascent.

It’s a bit of a trek anyway back down and we meet many locals along the way, some of whom smile and say good morning, others who look at us with curiosity. Lots of dogs sitting around. At the lunch camp, young man Deloise (I’m sure I got it wrong) gives us chairs facing the mountain where the monastery we didn’t climb to is with the stream burbling below us. It’s sensationally serine (at least until a workman comes to set up tables for the buffet for a moment) and beautiful. The boy sets up a table for us to have at least for me tea. We talk money and two horses come by.

Our companions join us and soon the “picnic” lunch buffet is ready.

Pass where king will present scarves to dignitaries.

If u can tame a tiger why can’t u tame your wicked mine.

If offer a butter lamp can lead way for suffering sentient beings.

We had lunch at Dordena River which becomes Thimphu River.

Sangay shows the watch the man whose life he “saved” when trekking by warming him and who called him his other son.'

King in speeches to students holds coffee cup and says all products he’s drinking made elsewhere only water from Bhutan. Thus encouraging innovation—Bhutan’s. Self-sufficiency.

 Archery field. We see a contest in progress. 2 villages competing. 11 to a team. 2 out of 3. Starts 8 am ends in evening. 145 yards. Traditional. In olympics shorter and have measurements.

Unsuccessful in getting Ginger tea sent up for Bob’s cold. I need to have missing small towels sent up for cooling my neck which is killing me but this comes.

Evening’s activities: 6: we fit into our costumes/native dress while we meet with the monk who reads our astrological I prophecies.

Struggles with our costumes. Thank goodness for Banjo our driver who ties them although my little boy (or so I refer him as) the one I am seated next to fixes my color later. He’s a smart and charming 12 year old in the 6th grade.

Sinjana anie pradhan (Facebook)

What did I learn in our conversation and subsequent bonding?

He lives in Thimphu with his parents, father in tourism (kind of a tour manager I’m guessing), mother, a beautician, his 79 year old grandmother and his 2 year old brother and wishes his family were larger, He has friends—“no best friends; they are all best friends.” (I did see him interacting happily with his cohorts.) His Bhuddaism keeps creeping into our conversation, (and he seems preternaturally wise), for example he learns that he must not harm or kill and feels bad when he does. Who does he kill I ask thinking of the violence committed in the USA. He says today he killed an ant. It was squished up (he is a little boy) and he looks sorrowful. He explains it could be his grandfather (his “passed”).

THURSDAY NOVEMBER 1.
DAY 21, Thursday - Lobesa, Punakha Dzong, Punakha
An early start this morning as you drive through the scenic terrain of the Himalayas to Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan, pausing at Dochhula Pass to view the astounding snow-clad peaks of Bhutan (on a clear day.) You pass over one hundred monuments and see many colorful prayer flags along your route on your way to the Royal Botanical gardens. After lunch in the village of Lobesa, continue to Punakha Dzong, center of power until 1907, considered the most beautiful dzong in the country with its towering whitewashed walls accented by elaborately painted gold, red and black wood. By tradition, all of the Kings of Bhutan are crowned here in the 100-pillar Coronation Hall, decorated with massive gold statues and murals depicting the life of Buddha. Before dinner at the hotel, you gather to learn how to create a Mandala out of colorful rice, a spiritual and ritual symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism that represents the Universe
Overnight: Punakha
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Again damnit lose my elaborate notes from this mornings on the road trip. How to recap?

Night of music booming from the Holloween party upstairs to which we were invited.

Arise to new pains tingling down my upper back which leads to helpful conversations with Alisha at breakfast about remedies.

Gorgeous panoramic views from the 108 stupas in honor of soldiers killed repelling indian militants. King intervened. Highest inclined mountain. Sacred. 25000 feet. A

This is Coronation Day. Also mountain bike race to 12000 feet.

Punakha goes to Thimphu for summer. Divine Madman defeated Demon lying on ground with penis rising/-scaring demon. Transformed into red dog He tamed.

Tourists: mostly US, then  China, Japan.

We see fired on the roadside of people roast corn.

Before China took over To at Bhutan had a good relationship with Tibet. Trading.

 Best Chile comes from Punaka.

Anyone can become a Buddha. Desire, anger, ignorance.

Divine madman, mustache etc. all manefistations of Buddha.

So in Pulhara we get a phallic blessing in the temple of the divine madman by a little boy monk who offers us a phalus to bow Dow to followed by a hike to buy a Pharisee carved by the storekeepershudnsnd a graduate of the Thimphu fine arts sco. She proclaims it a  nice shape.

Punalha Dzon. Before capital shifted to Thimphu was in Pinacha. Most important. Secret sacred temple. Only 5 can enter. Mummified man with beard. Special ceremonies start here in Pinacha Dzong. M W B was real incarnation.

Father of 1st king  saved life of Tonga’s Governor from being assassinated.

Tibetans came over to fight man with beards relic—founded Mahina Buddhism. Faked them out by throwing a fake relic in the river.

70th chief abbott now.

In Buddhist teaching non-attachment so offering of water—anyone can, rich or poor. Butterscptures. Birthday candles blow out flame reminds us of death. So must be kind in this life. Difficult. Must train our monkey mind. Food offerings distributed to the people.

Originally 1700. Started reconstruction in 1984. Finished 2004.

At the hotel.

We have a magnificently large room with amazing serene views out onto the mountains and the mad god’s dzong (though I can’t locate it in the mountains)

Mandela. Blue for sky. White clouds. Red is fire. Green is natire. Earth is the yellow.

Mandela’s are in circles. Practitioners use it for meditation. Temples and stupsay are in the shape of a Mandela.

God of compassion worshipped. Mandala is a sNscript word. To see yourself must be put in the center.

Can focus your mind.

White is greed. Green jealousy. Pride antidote is calmness. Anger antidote patience. Jealousy antidote is appreciation. Pure quality is love.

Ignorance antidote — pure quality tolerance.

Body 5 elements. Water blood. Air breath. Iron bones. Last space (to move).

We create our own Mandelas from the 5 cups of colored rice. Ours is the tree of life from inception through the troubles that life inflicts from inside and outside our personalities to through aging awareness. All our fascinating— E

FRIDAY NOVEMBER 2
DAY 22, Friday - Chimi Lhakhang Monastery, Sisina Farm House, Tachogang Lhakhang, Paro
Visit Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery and fertility temple dedicated to a famous monk also known as "the divine madman." Famous for being unorthodox and trying to make Buddhism more relaxed, he is considered a hero in Bhutan. The monastery is also a fertility temple and couples often come here who want to have children. Later, you experience the soothing sounds of chants and spiritual music as you enter a nearby nunnery or temple. After, you continue to Paro, stopping along the way at the legendary Wang Sisina Farm House for a delicious traditional Bhutanese meal served in original earthenware by the hostess. An interesting cultural show and tour of the vast courtyards of this 300 year-old-home will also be arranged. After, you drive to Tachogang Lhakhang near Chuzom, one of the temples founded by a Tibetan saint who also designed and erected many iron suspension bridges in the early 15th century, making parts of Bhutan accessible for the very first time. At an incense making shop you learn more about this craft, and how this has become a popular small industry in this area. Arrive in the town of Paro for an orientation walk before heading to your hotel for dinner and overnight

Beautiful hotel, huge suite with great views.

We hear previous prime minister’s Ted talk:

Tells story of Bhutan. How sandwiched between 2 huge countries. Triving because blessed with great kings. GNH—is more important than GNP. Small economy. Free education, health. Development with values. Economic concerns must not undermine environmental values.72% under forest cover. Even though people didn’t demand democracy king imposed it—could be impeached, retirement at 65. Carbon neutral

(Negative) country. Export renewable energy offsets carbon dioxide. Net carbon sink.

But bearing brunt of global warming. Nobody listened to their promise to remain carbon neutral years ago.

Provide free electricity to farmers, subsidizing programs,planting trees, protected areas are their lungs. Network of biological corridors. Animals can roam free.

“Bhutan for life” to protect parks.

Each Tourist responsible for 250 per day expenses; $65 goes to government. No backpackers allowed must have  professional tours. Tourists high value. How king stopped to talk to tourists and ordered birthday cake for a woman.

Royal Botanical Park.

We’re not going to see many flowers—season.

OUR FABULOUS HOTEL ROOM

Photo shoot at the 108 stupa rest stop where we had coffee and ginger tea.

Beautiful leaves turning as we wind down the mountain though the air isn’t as clear as yesterday a banner day. Pass an accident—vehicle off the cliff//not cool.

Hosts at Heritage House 18th c. She’s 11th generation. Her son 12th. Banjo, our driver’s grandfather grew up there. Food bland though Bob and I try the vile and cheese which is indeed Spivey.

Nov 5 5 am check out to get to airport.

Paro has the only international airport I the country. Most hotels.

Stop at incense factory. Bob is allergic & pmyysays it’s a sweat shop.

Old town and new town of Paro.

TIPS: Call all bank cards in advance of trip Take American $ for tips

Paro for us is souvenir shopping and attempting to change money. The latter is unsuccessful because we had to allerted our banks of our travel. The cap one card which works we cancelled and a new one sits uselessoin our home mailbox. So this will plague us until late at night in the hotel and thanks to the ministrations of Frank who has a mysterious US calling so we succeed.

Of the hotel—a half hour away from town it is in a word magnificent a wooden masterpiece among the best we have experienced sitting majestically in the hills with insane views. Our accommodations are huge—front porch and enclosed balcony and a high ceilinged Great room for such it is—likely larger than our own at home/-and surrounded by windows looking out at those views and we’re  told the Tigers Nest itself.

After the unpacking routine and having some of our vodka, we take the path down to the main house where we find some of our number drinking in the bar and raucously encouraging us to try the house specialty (an excellent Tigers something) which arrives as soon as does the liberally poured wine and invitation to dine.  This food buffet—same dishes pretty much—is among the tops yet. Good conversation with Terry and Su, born in New Guiana and Uganda  to England to Florida America, discussing family, class, privilege, and philosophy of life.

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3.
DAY 23, Saturday - National Museum, Rinpung Dzong, Temple of Kyichu
Morning tour of Paro's National Museum, housed in an old hilltop watchtower resembling the shape of a conch shell. You're guided here by a local historian/writer who interprets for you the museum's valuable collection of antique paintings, festival masks, religious statues and stone carvings. Next, on to Rinpung Dzong, one of the most impressive dzongs in Bhutan, a masterpiece of Bhutanese architecture. Don't miss the unique painting of Milarepa, considered the master of meditation by the Buddhists. Walk down to the cantilevered wooden covered bridge that spans the Paro Chhu, a reconstruction of the original bridge washed away in 1969. After lunch at a local restaurant, on to the 7th century Temple of Kyichu; tour the ruins of the Drukgyal Dzong, built as a symbol of victory when the Mongolian and Tibetan invaders from the north were defeated. Enjoy a wonderful afternoon tea served inside the ruins of this astonishing setting. Dinner is at the hotel
Overnight: Paro
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

SUNDAY NOVEMBER 4.

It’s Tigers Nest day. Bob chooses to opt out. So snickers bars, tea and coffee in-room will have to do before I head out for the 7 am bus trip—1/2 hour to the base of the mountain which houses the famous cliff the famous Tigers Nest overlooks. The others in our group are excitedly ready to make the 5 hour round trip trek but when Sangay outlines once again during the ride pitfalls like air sickness and being jostled by hellbent ponies along the way I feel that Bobs and my decision to remain behind is an astute one. At least I get a photo of the international icon from below as I follow the pony droppings a few hundred feet up and wave our fellow travelers on their way walking sticks in tow. And there’s Alesia on a pony-/I don’t think that bumpy alternative would have  suited my neck.

There’s Banjo and the bus though he needs to be interrupted from leisurely chatting with a fellow driver to take John, the 3rd straggler, and me back to the hotel.

 During the drive we learn through his limited English that he basically gets to stay with his wife and four kids only during the winter months of Dec-February. Then he gets to help his wife with her farm’s winter crops rising each day before sunup. He’s had no education, because as eldest son he had to make money for his family, though his oldest son is in graduate school.

There’s Bob ready for breakfast before the dining room closes on us at 9. I wonder if it will be essentially the Sam spread as lunch and dinner.

Darn no hot spa packages available for us—tip: arrange spa treatments first thing—but I reserve Swedish massages at 3. Discover AlJazeera news. Certainly beats CNN and BBC obsessions with African entrepreneurs during off-hours and the perspective that is not instinctively pro-American is enlightening,

Knock knock, cleaners want in so we find the lounge at the bottom of the hill in the main building. It’s warm, it’s charming and we take advantage of its couches, mine is “fainting” thank you.

At 1 pm it’s only John, Bob and me in the dining room plus a couple somewhere in its far reaches. Sesame toasted cucumber salad. Spicy. And the bowls of food sufficient for a crowd keep coming. Consequently we eat too much since there’s no point to doggy bags. Good having a chance to talk 

with John who says we’re remarkable. Us?

3 pm Swedish massages in the couples room with a lovely view of the mountains which we won’t see anyway since we’re face down for an hour, Bob to enjoy his experience more than I; a bit too deep tissue for my tastes.

We’re close to polishing off our vodka before we leaVE.

MONDAY NOVEMBER 5.
DAY 24, Sunday - Ascend to "Tigers Nest"
If you're adventurous and physically fit, get ready for a memorable hike to world-famous "Tiger's Nest" or Taktsang Palphug Monastery. Located on the face of a sheer cliff above the floor of the Paro Valley, this not to be missed site is accessible by hiking. It is a strenuous uphill climb including over 700 steps. This sacred pilgrimage site is where the great tantric mystic, Padmasambhava flew on the back of the tiger and brought the teachings of the Buddhist Dharma to Bhutan (mythical belief). The Monastery clings to a cliff soaring 3,000 feet above the valley floor at an altitude of 10,000 feet. Along the way, you can hang prayer flags for world peace, or for people who are hungry, ill or in pain (in Buddhism, a prayer flag is considered a blessing). Stop for lunch and admire the breathtaking views from the cafeteria before slowly descending. Tonight, bid a fond farewell at dinner to your newfound friends and Tour Manager with whom you shared this extraordinary journey in Bhutan
Overnight: Paro
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

In Nepal it’s a festival the day of the crow, tomorrow day of the Dog 5th day brothers and sisters so Laksmi tells us on the way back to Hotel Yak and Yeti, our old digs. We canceled our tour today. W e leave at 7 tomorrow but need to be out of the room by noon. (Suggests Alice’s restaurant for lunch).

Our Wakeup call in Bhutan was 4 am. Luggage out 4:30. We’re on the road at 5, aour flight 7:30. I prevail o my seat Ages to take yet another photo of Everest.

We actually jump the hurdle of the extra day beyond our visa (bad G1) by paying $5 at the transit visa window

Alice Restaurant $4 pizza and &15 wine bottle add the VAT—not Itslianpizza so we feel authentic. It’s actually almost inedible.

TUESDAY NOVEMBER 6.
DAY 25, Monday - Depart Bhutan, Arrive in Nepal
Early this morning, depart from the airport in Paro on a flight that takes you back to Kathmandu, Nepal. The remainder of the day is at leisure for individual pursuits or join the optional Dhulikhel & Panauti Tour, where you will do some off the beaten path exploring of the Kathmandu Valley. Start out in Dhulikhel, an ancient town located about 20 miles east of Kathmandu city. You’ll hike among the rolling green hills, admiring the mountains stretching into the distance and traditional architecture that dots the area around this historic trading center along the old commercial route linking Nepal to Tibet. Along the way, you’ll climb up to Devi Temple and stop at Shanti Ban, a serene forest that is home to a giant statue of Gautama Buddha. End the hike in Panauti village, a traditional Newar settlement rich in rural character. Here, you will see several temples, including the Indreshwar Mahadev and Bhairav Temples, along with magnificent Rana-era mansions and stupas
Optional: Dhulikhel & Panauti Tour
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast

IT'S A HOLIDAY LIKE CHRISTMAS

Again! The day’s notes went poof. Not into the cloud because I’ve exceeded my limits.

Not that there was a dearth of information. For example, here we sit having taxied back to the Kathmandu airport for a medical emergency. The ill passenger had joined us, the only occupants in business class. There was refueling. Why? We wait forever until it becomes clear his family is not coming for him and they’d better get him off the airplane where medical treatment may or may not await. And then the safety demonstration is repeated, this time at breakneck speed and as before in an incomprehensible language. “Hell with the infidel if there’s trouble,” I joke to Bob.

Once airborne things look up. We have our very own Pretty Russian lady to serve us and pour refills of Sauvignon Blanc. Kind of like having our own plane says Bob. Meal: salad, prawns, dessert moi. Bob chicken and spicy rice. 5 1/2 hour flight.

Getting on to the Emirates partner was

DAY 26, Tuesday - Depart Nepal
Morning is at leisure to prepare for your departure. In the late afternoon you head to the airport for the flight back home later this evening
Meals: Breakfast

WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 7.

It’s the last leg before Home. If you gotta do it, do it thusly. Once off the flydubai plane, we are at last separated from the hordes when a bus flashing “business class” comes for us alone when we descend from our plane. However we are confused as to what to do even when we are shepherded into a bus that wends it’s way slowly around this city of an airport to drop us off at the Emirates terminal where our main job is to find that famous behemoth of a lounge. 

Found and discover that they do have a wine bar always wonder in middle eastern—oops Arabian type—countries and various cuisine bars and that CNN is reporting the first election returns. I’m actually able to sleep (an hour? More?) in the sleeping dorm (though they do have individual sleeping rooms).

On board, fabulous overeaten breakfast; mattress cover makes seating more comfortable. And damned if we’re not going to enjoy the bar though I need to teach them what an American martini is when I have the bartender discard the vermouth “Martini “ in a glass and just pour Belvedere vodka into a martini glass. All the day passengers are sleeping in their pods. Why? We’re drinking in the bar.

Watching: Billionaires Boys Club. Mostly interesting for Kevin Spacey’s turn as a, what else, sociopath. Based on true story of young men whose Ponzi scheme turn deadly.

Our carpet from India arrives and will be introduced to its compadres in the Opium Den.

We're old. Our schemes have turned out pretty well.