JAN. 4-22, 2018: PANAMA CANAL CRUISE.
THURSDAY JAN 4. GETTING THERE
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| AIRSPACE LOUNGE: MAY I HELP YOU SIS? |
We’re in the Airspace Lounge at local Lindbergh—that’s a
departure—just Amex Platinum gets us in plus a $10 credit each which buys us a
Skater Girl Chardonnay—not a winner but does the trick. Watch cute kiddies—it’s
not that exclusive but better than sitting by the Gate. Kinda nice, this later
flight—usually we’re up like jack rabbits in the wee hours for inconvenient
departures. (Jack rabbits are notoriously insomniac?) Ironic that I forgot we
have first class tickets, not economy, which means we could have gotten into
the United Lounge (better?) and we wouldn’t have to worry about the weight of our
luggage and I didn’t need to jettison my chartreuse and Zumba shoes.
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| SAN DIEGO AIRPORT MEETS BUCK ROGERS |
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| 1ST CLASS KIND OF GUY |
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| HUSTON WE'VE NO PROBLEM |
I send friend and sort of mentor Hugh a play proposal and he
thinks it too serious ala Betty Friedan. I say it’s a political satire and
he’ll laugh until he’s breathless. He replies, you can make em laugh and you
can make em cry but you can’t bore them. I reply that I can’t bore them. “Jeez.” The gauntlet
has been tossed at my dancing feet.
This time Bob and I are on opposite window seats. I’m
sitting next to a "tstotzka"—that’s unkind—(but she IS a tstotzka. Sort of an out
there look.) start with vodka on the rocks again. I see Bob has his
Chardonnay.. The nuts aren’t hot but the cab (it’s really a Shiraz) looks decent. My
burger when the meal is served is pretty awful. (Bob likes his—no
telling.) I should have known.
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| FT. LAUDERDALE NIGHT LANDING |
1st class helps and we’re at the Ft. Lauderdale airport by
10 pm. Call to Candlewood Suites after we’ve retrieved our luggage and a 15
minute wait in the Floridian cold (huh?) for our shuttle, we as the only
passengers. Candlewood. Let’s talk basic but that was the idea—near airport and
cruise port. Amazing these days you do everything on line. Wired. Connected.
Don’t need to talk to anyone. Where but for web designers are people going to
find jobs? Not my or the vast population of the aged’s problem I guess. (Or is
it?)
Too cool in our room with one thin cover not to have leg
cramps waking one up with a jolt rather too early. Eventually we walk to the
neighboring Holiday Inn for breakfast and somehow manage to avoid the $5 per
cost the Candlewood clerk warned of us. Not worth $5 is Bob’s judgement.
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| NOT THE RITZ |
At the room at least there’s CNN to help us pass the time
until the shuttle. Is it really a holiday when the vacationer doesn’t reject
the insistent bleeting of dire world news?
Friendly group of codgers on our shuttle, mostly boarding
the Westerdam—also going thru the Canal. 2 others, a Texas couple (obviously
wealthy beyond imaging—have a major suite onboard “bigger than my first house”— we’re talking a
couple hundred thou trip) starting the world cruise of 111 days. I tell them
they’re very brave. They say Princess has never disappointed them.
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| ENTERING THE FUTURE |
We’re very pleased. Our suite is wonderful as anticipated
and the web photos didn’t show the upgraded furnishings. Just on our way
downstairs to the dining room we note the ship has that much-vaunted old world
feel.
Excellent start for lunch. My avocado and bay shrimp with
lemoncello aioli is brilliant. Really. And I love my main, broiled salmon with
lemon and dill sauce and fab al dente potatoes and veggies. Bob enjoys his
excellent Tuscan style chickpea soup with root vegetables and Italian parsley
and his grilled herb-sauced beef tenderloin. “They do meats well.”
The inevitable safety drill this time does not require us
to don our vests at which we are usually only partially successful at this
attempt to save our own lives—and are thus grateful—but it’s the same
blurb—hold your nose and jump in straightaway into the icy waters below if you
must. And yell “man overboard” and throw
the wretch a vest if you can.
There’s a colorfully costumed mummers group playing and
dancing and preening for us on the pier in anticipation of our embarkation. The
music is infectious and as it ends Solomon our steward brings us our champagne
to toast the beginning of a possibly wonderful cruise.
The question. Will we love this ship’s environment enough
to sail 111 day’s on it in 2020?
There’s a kind of country duo playing on the pool deck
where the LGBT’ers are supposed to meet. The three guys we saw earlier are
there. That’s it. Passing by, I discover they’re from Vancouver. I guess we’re
it. That’s ok.
After wrestling with the Romanian internet maven to
recapture lost minutes and other sad tales we climb another flight to the
Pacific Elite patrons (dats us) Lounge for not Chairmen of the Board drinks—I
won’t pay regular prices for it so we have the daily special, a gin and
grenadine concoction “Floridora” which is actually delicious and from the
buffet bruschetta and goat cheese (oy lovely) and some Gouda and ementaller—all
devoured as Ft. Lauderdale, its cityscape and it’s mansions on the shore,
recede.
And to wonder if Solomon will pick up my shirts and
jacket for free pressing. Ah imponderables. (He will.)
2 Floridoras x 2 = a nap x 2. We are exhausted so welcome
Morpheus.
Then at 7:30 there’s the contretemps with the maitre d’.
We are shown to a table for 8 and La Reuel hits the roof. Rails at him. We get
a temporary table for two next to pleasant Orange County folks with promises
he’ll do his best for us. Hm.
We’re both feeling tension—I guess (and I hope) from the
newness and strain of Traveling here plus the dispiriting news of being
thwarted in seating we reserved a year ago) and that pervades our evening mood.
We order the same dishes. Of the spring rolls, Bob reports that "the peanut
sauce is not sufficiently piquant.” Soup (chicken broth with Tortellini and
spinach) is “too salty”. The prime rib is fine but we both are not able to
finish our rather extravagant portions. For dessert a flourless chocolate cake.
I ask Bob how you can make chocolate cake without flour. Pause. “I guess a lump
of chocolate and butter.” “Good try.” Of the cake, I don’t feel a loss of the
flour. It’s yummy. Though I can’t finish it; we are both full.
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| AGED ASIAN "PRO" DANCE INSTRUCTORS |
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| REAL PRO DANCERS |
SAT. JAN 6. AT SEA.
Breakfast in the dining room is an elegant way to start
the day. Actually the day started strenuously for me—body work class at 7,
indeed precisely at 7 since the Vietnamese instructor gal Kasi refused to open
the door of the gym until exactly 7. Sort of a modified circuit weights and
stretch class with some push-ups-stand ups thrown in.
Bobs blueberry pancakes and my Alaska scramble are
mediocre. But the apricot danish is heaven. And Bob’s bacon good. Hence mixed
bag.
Breakfast accomplished, we assemble for a lecture on
Aruba.
Sammy. “Cover the earth before the earth covers you.”
“Blessed are the flexible cause they’re not bent out of
shape.”
Oldest in audience is 88. Youngest 43. They get champs.
Aruba lecture. Off coast of SA. 1499 Europeans arrived.
1513 island enslaved by Spaniards as caretakers of horses. 1636 Dutch arrived.
Took control from Spaniards. 19th c gold rush. End of 20th c tourism boom.
Today a Dutch protectorate—sovereign nation.
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| A RARITY: UNCROWDED BUFFET |
Time to find out about the thalassotherapy pool upstairs.
It will suit and I sign us both up despite Bob’s dubiousness. Especially when
the spa gal says I can order wine while therapying. I’m there.
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| LUNCHEON BUFFETS ARE (TOO) NICE. |
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| DON'T TEMPT ME. (note captions for old people ahem) |
Return to find Bob still in the room and unwilling to try
the thelasotherapy pool. I do however despite rocking ship—as I walk into pool
housing an unhappy couple clinging to the metal substructure I say, “And the point
of this is. . . ?” She replies “And we spent all this money for . . . ?” After
they leave I find a button that turns the jets on but the rocking is still
daunting and I find solace in the steam room and a shower.
After a while Bob, who is still ensconced in his cocoon,
(is he ok?) and I head to the elite lounge and try new concoctions and I’m able
to stock up on olives for our in-room martinis.
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| PRE-DINNER DRINKS IN THE ELITE LOUNGE |
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| CLASSY OLD SHIP |
Dick and Kathy are our neighbors from Chicago. Good
conversation. Verdict about Mayor Emanuel: he arrogantly thought he could fix
it—too much to fix.
We’re among the few stragglers at dinner—who would’ve
thought? But the Sacre Torte requires
savoring. Just in time to get to the theatre (cabaret lounge)—for the Irish
comic doing his complete show (last night was presumably a preview act) and
he’s a stitch—next to me: what’s his name, Kornell? Irish American—has accent,
85 years old, has four homes, Ireland, NYC, Ft. Lauderdale and?—still gets
royalties from his investment in Fiddler On the Roof (wowza) and other shows.
Fascinating old fellow—traveling with his male “partner”. We’re meeting
absolutely lovely folks on this trip.
SUNDAY, JANUARY 7. AT SEA
SUNDAY, JANUARY 7. AT SEA
.
At the buffet—which is a lot nicer than the buffets on
the big ships because there are no crowds and seating is available inside and
out on the deck. We’ve a nice large table overlooking the ocean, a swath of
silver reflected on the now pacific blue waves. My “handcrafted” omelette with
“the works” is lovely if spicy. Which one of the “works” provided that kick?
I’ll only catch a sliver of the lecture on the Bermuda
Triangle (which I gather is where we are)--Bob’s in for the pound—because I’ve
got Zumba with Sara at 9:45.
Lecture: Not a riveting, dynamic lecturer but interesting
subject matter. Among victims of the Triangle, Lindbergh—kept it a secret.
Talks about the many disappearances of planes and vessels. Even Columbus saw
lights in the distance. . . . Gotta leave for Zumba. Replacing a bible study
session, with the leader remaining behind to tell personal anecdotes about
faith. (I’ll later see her on another deck confiding how faith and god saved
her—with another “follower”.)
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| REUEL'S EXERCISE: ZUMBA (Sarah preparing) |
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| BOB'S EXERCISE: WALK AROUND THE (SMALL) SHIP |
Pub lunch today in the Steakhouse restaurant. Bob.
Ploughman’s lunch. (Farmhouse ham, mature English cheddar cheese, pate, pickle
relish and crusty bread.) Reuel. Fish and chips. (Deep fried cod fillet in
batter with chips. with mushy peas and tartar sauce.) And then bread and butter
pudding, which only seems right and proper. Requiring a nap. Hooray.
Up just in time for the day’s movie in the cabaret, "Lady Macbeth", (she's a conniving gal) which got good reviews.
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| ACTUALLY HE (MEAN HUSBAND) DOES "COME BACK" (WHICH COMPLICATES MATTERS). |
In cabin. Martinis. And Reuel gazing at the wine dark sea
with gorgeous clouds across the sky.
It’s a formal night. Din din. We both have Appetizer. Stilton mousse and Waldorf salad. Creamy asparagus soup. Grilled medallions of beef tenderloin, cognac and black peppercorn Demi-glacé. Roasted carrots and squash, Parmesan potato beignet. Kathy our neighbor—likes her barramundi fish. “Sounds like a middle eastern country” she says. We like these people Kathy and Dick.
So we’ve seen "Do You Wanna Dance" as a production number
on the big ships but this is arguably more enjoyable. Pared down for the
cabaret setting it is more intimate and accessible. A dancer’s perky ass is in
my face and I don’t mind. A bit. 2
singers.
MONDAY JAN 8. ARUBA
Comfortable sleep. getting the z’s. Must be the very
comfortable bed—it’s enhanced they say for mini-suites—and the gentle (mostly)
rocking of the waves. I oversleep and miss the stretch/and ab classes. Oh well.
In time to hear Morning Joe’s interview with Michael Wolf, author of the
controversial book that got Trump’s bipee. I’m fascinated but Bob wants
breakfast. Fastest shower on earth and before 9:30 we’re breakfasting on the
deck outside the buffet—it’s balmy out and beautiful. I say I’ve come a long
way from Jersey City. "How many nautical miles?" asks Bob. That will take a while
to contemplate.
Yet another lecture on Atlantis. Plato—a story retold for
him.
Where? To the West. Atlantic Ocean.
Pope Gregory destroyed most of western civ lit. Wanted to
control an ignorant people.
Atlantis a concept. Heinrich event=drastic sudden change.
Elongated skulls in ancient times—to emulate alien gods
who impregnated earth women.
Sandy, the future cruises gal, is nice—lives in Coronado;
actually I think she lives on the Pacific Princess. (This is her 6th world
cruise.) We use our deposit, about to expire in a few days, for an April 2019
27-day cruise from Sydney to LA on the Golden Princess in mini-suite Club Class
(!). $7,889 each plus bus. Class to Sydney. . . . Why not? (Please don't answer.)
In time to watch the docking in Aruba, the tug right
underneath our cabin guiding our ship to port through the beautiful tourquoise
waters. We’ve no need to prepare for our tour since ours—a walking tour of
Oranjestad, was cancelled. Why? Not enough participants. Oh, how many were
there? You were the only ones. Oh. I guess we’ll walk by ourselves then.
Bob, “My observation is that all of these coastal towns look the same.” Fun shuttle bus takes us to the main drag, which we walk—lots of the usual stores, Armani, etc. souvenir shops in one of which we buy an egg shaped Aruba snow globe (we were there!) and a “Swiss Village” of stores where in the Swatch shop I buy a “Hot” watch which Bob thinks I’ll like—he’s right. All this located in a sort of Disneyland fantasy hotel, Dutch flavored. Enough. Walk back. Shuttle. Let’s find lunch. When we take the world cruise, we’ll stop in Aruba again and maybe we’ll take the “submarine” and look at big tropical fish looking at us. Next.
Finally got smart about buffet dining. Order your wine—in
this case a bottle of Mondavi Pinot noir—at the bar, get your table—in this
case a lovely one on the deck overlooking Aruba—and then get your food.
Always—bane of buffets—a melange. Wonderful pasta, great burrito, and perfect
fish skewer. I added—because I could—a little ham sandwich.
And considering we’ve consumed more than I//2 of the
bottle—nap time.
And then I’ve got an hour before the movie—to swim, go
into the jacuzzi, take a thelasotherapy session, take steam, shower and dress.
And . . . I do.
Bob chooses to remain in our cabin. The film, Baby
Driver, 93% rotten tomatoes. It’s mainly a caper movie with nasty characters,
including Kevin Spacey as Doc the mastermind, and Jamie Fox and John Hamm as
mean killer types offset by Baby who has a heart of gold, falls for a waitress
with a heart of gold but must drive like a madman to and from the heists. Sort
of sourish but mildly diverting. Not mother’s milk for the ten passengers in
the audience and the only others left onboard—which leaves the ship to us!
Listening to soft jazz with Dave and the Showband as we
drink today’s special concoction and look over the harbor of Aruba. Evening
lights and all that jazz. “Somewhere beyond the Sea.” Not bad. And now a
nondescript Billie Holliday tune. And next, "Try to Remember." (How—wistfully—appropriate.)
At their break we take our leave.
Upstairs there’s a pool party. A new very gay cruise guy
throws lays on us (I guess there's a sort of all purpose party/disco era theme)
and tells us we must join Soul Train when it comes. And there are the Princess
dancers doing a disco routine. Buoyed by the infectious music I start dancing
solo and after a while get Bob to join me. We don’t care if we’re a gay
spectacle. And inevitably after joining a line dance, we’re slow dancing. My
my. I whisper to Bob we’re paying a lot of money for this cruise, we can do
what the hell we want. Exhausted we rest on a sort of poolside divan and watch
the rest of the show. I do notice the father of 3 youngsters (perhaps the only
ones on the ship) following his brood casts a baleful look at us as he passes
by. Is he signaling his disapproval of the intimacy two men showed. I didn’t
know his kids were there but damnit should that have inhibited us? Should his
kids have been protected from the sight of us being who we are? And enjoying what
the other couples are enjoying this enchanted evening?
Answer: Nyet. Nein. No!
TUESDAY, JANUARY 9. AT SEA
Once again we oversleep and Reuel misses out on his 7
0’clock gym class—tradeoff for a long, great night’s sleep. Means however that
there’s a rush to get to 9:30 Zumba which means buffet not elegant breakfast
dining where a napkin is placed on ones lap (if one isn’t careful to beat the servers to
it).
Lecture. Pirates of the Caribbean. Catch it late after
Zumba. (14 ladies and me—dancing.) . . . Code of conduct. One man one vote.
Everyone had an equal share. No gambling so no bad feelings. Lights out at 8
pm. (Drink in the dark.) Keep weapons clean. No women onboard. No desertion. No
fighting onboard.
Musicians got sabbath off.
Henry Morgan. Appointed admiral of the Brethren. D. 1688.
Benefactor of the people.
Not dashing as in portraits. (Short and portly.) Raided
Cuba, Panama, Venezuela. Bloodthirsty. Used priests and women as human shields.
Appointed Governor of Jamaica.
Captain Kidd. Forced to become a privateer. Killed a crew
member. Notoriety from trial.
He buried treasure. Lord Bellamont scapegoated him. Tarred
and feathered.
Avery. King of the pirates. Mutineers. Elected captain. Took
over 25 ship convoy. 85M. Crew broke up. He disappeared.
Stede Bonnet. A prick. Bought a boat. He was a gentleman
farmer. Ran away to get away from his wife. Destroyed Barbados ships so word
wouldn’t get back to his home town.
Bartholomew Roberts. Took over 470 ships in 3 years.
Blackbeard 1680-1718. His flag: devil taking a drink and
spearing a heart.romanticized. Early life unknown. True name unknown.
Was a captain only 18 months. Talent for public relations.
Reported to have 14 wives. Took a royal pardon. Killed in battle.
A quick walk round the track above the pool and then a sit-down
by the pool. We’re among the first in the dining room for lunch. Bob has a
Chardonnay and Reuel a premium 100 proof martini—we mean business.
Bob really enjoys his macadamia nut ice cream.
Of course the Love Boat would have a dedicated Romance
channel—our luck the very funny comedy of manners 50’s American-style “Send Me
No Flowers” (I think it was a play first) starring Rock Hudson and Doris Day. There’s the Rep company
including Tony Randall as Rock’s best
friend (the comic sidekick), Complication: he’s a hypochondriac, thinks he’s
dying (he’s not); wants to shield wife from that knowledge. Find a replacement
husband. Complications and misunderstandings ensue of course.
Dance band and well-practiced dancers as we enjoy our delish
Mayan Mules (something like that). Beautiful, tasty and has a bit of kick.
Tequila, ginger beer etc. I broach the topic of our taking ballroom dance
lessons. Why the f...k not? Pleasure mitigated considerably by an email from
our condo property mgr indicating we need a complete repiping of the building.
Oy. I write our neighbor Charlie and say he’s got to get at least 1.15 mill.
(We think he can.) for his condo. (Later to learn he's asking 1.2).
Ah, its Italian night when the servers are dressed as
Venetian gondoliers. Doesn’t really work for Tan our portly server. I order a
Chianti Rufino Reserva. (It’s delightful.) and at $46 only a dollar over our
gold card limit. In tribute to the Italian theme, seafood antipasto, like—wish
there was more-- minestrone soup, just ok, and spaghetti con polpette in salsa
do pomodoro fresco—aka spaghetti and meatballs for the Reuelster. Always ok.
I’m not disappointed. Bob. Grilled eggplant, peach Bellini soup and the
scalopinne di Vitelli al Marsala. “Quite disappointing.”
There seems to be some disagreement as to whether the
Pacific is to be preferred to the larger ships. I think yes. Dick says not
enough activity. When I mention that the refurbishments are a plus, he reveals
that Princess was forced to do them; when entering a port it ripped open one
side (needing to evacuate the passengers and send them home). But we’re having
a great time with our table neighbors, Kathy and Dick. Joking. Talk of Positano
and we order limoncello in glasses—Kathy gives me her glass for our collection.
WEDNESDAY JAN 10 SANTA MARTA COLUMBIA
“This is possibly the worst eggs Benedict I’ve ever had,”
This from Bob.
As we wait to descend to the tour embarkation place, I tell
Bob I’m exhausted. “We’ve done so much.” Upstairs then downstairs then upstairs
(elevator). “Lifted fork, lifted fork.”
8:30 am. Looks like this is the start of the touring
ritual—assembly in the theatre, cabaret that is.
Confession I didn’t know Santa Marta was in Columbia so I’m
excited to be visiting Columbia, gateway to South America, for the first time.
8:40 on the mini bus. Not bad. Seats are a little tight, the Columbians as Bob
notes being a small people. (That 'splains It.)
Diva is our guide. Panoramic tour of the oldest city in
Columbia. 32 departments (not states). Santa Marta is the capital of Magdalena. 2 high
mountains. Highest 18,000 feet. Snow capped and only a few miles from the
shore. Hotter in rainy season because of humidity. Rains more in the coffee region (Bogota) than on the
Caribbean coast. Classes 1-6. 1 and 2 get free medical.’ Free education. Chivas are the busses for Columbia tourists.
I’ve apparently lost the bulk of my tour notes. Where did
they go?
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| GLORIOUS WALL ART (GRAFFITI?) : |
Let’s see--takeaways: next time in Columbia see
Cartegena--all colonial architecture. Then go to coffee country (Bogata).
Climate change has been screwing with Columbia’s rainy season. The Santa
Martians (?) are considered lazy. Spend most days partying at the beach. High
unemployment rate in Columbia. Government getting some control over drug
trafficking which consequently has in recent years promoted safe tourism. Neat
and a bit odd are all those tall cactuses on the green hills.
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THE URBAN PARTS OF THE CITY |
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| & WHERE THE OTHER HALF LIVES--MORE COLORFUL AT LEAST |
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| MOBILE CAFE |
PERFORMING FOR TIPS AS BUS STOPS
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| GETTING IN THE ACT |
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| ANOTHER GREAT GUIDE |
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| ENTERING BOLIVAR'S DYING PLACE |
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| HE WAS ILL HERE |
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| BOLIVAR'S KITTY? |
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| BOLIVAR'S FAVORITE LIZARD-LI'L BOLI |
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| STREET SCENES |
Glad to be back onboard. The tour , culminating in Bolivar’s
final place before his death, is a bit dull and it’s hot out. Salvador wants to
clean so we head to the buffet for lunch (the dining room being closed on port
days) stopping off first at the Panorama Bar for a bottle of Mondavi Pinot
noir. Some nice stir fries.
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| ON TV--OF GREAT MAN I MET IN NYC & TURKEY |
Nap quickie before Bob and I essay the afternoon film,
Wonder Woman, 92% Tomato score. Actually looking forward to seeing it. Gail
Gadot, an Israeli actress got kudos and who doesn’t like handsome Chris Pine.
(We saw him a few years back in a McDonach comedy-of-cruelty Irish play and he
does indeed have acting chops.) Front row seats. Lights, camera, action.
Actually very well done, the Amazon goddess princess Diana who wants to stop
Aires from creating war on earth and leaves Atlantis with the rakish WW1 spy
pilot (Pine) to do so. A woman director directed this necessarily feminist
film. Nevertheless, finally it’s yet another DC comic book (in the Marvel
genre) movie that strives for high mindedness at the expense of complexity and
subtlety. Bob enjoys it.
I still have time to enjoy my thelasotherapy steam and
shower routine pre-sunset.
Fabulous departure from Santa Marta. Industrial gives way to
low rises then high rises then mountains then an island with a lighthouse and a
rock promontory.
Hors d’ouvres
includes sushi tonight In the Panorama Lounge upstairs. Instead of the usual
fruity concoction, we have Stoli Elite martinis while the 2 Cool country music
(sort of) duo entertain. They’re quite good.
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| SUSHI--NONE FOR BOB OF THE ANTI-FISH PARTY |
Din din. Appetizer. Game & Wild Mushroom Pate with
port wine glaze and salad bouquet. Fab.
Bob. Prickly pear & sweet pineapple. “Lovely.” R & B. Seasonal field greens with
shredded carrots. B. Chicken Paillard with Amber Ale & Onion Gravy.
“Adequate”. R. Surf & Turf. I likee. Wine chateauneud-du-pape 2013. I tell Tan after tasting it
that 2013 was a very bad year. He looks alarmed until Bob tells him that I’m pulling his leg. Much relieved laughter.
Bob’s Napoleon: just ok. My chocolate love always excellent.
Again fun with adjacent table neighbors Kathy and Dick who does not join his
wife on tours. Hers included the gold museum which she enjoyed. (Ours didn’t so
we didn’t.)
Terrible sightlines in the cabaret. No rake. The show with
recognizable movie tunes (the loose premise) is upbeat . I’m growing fond of
the intimacy factor.
THURSDAY JAN 11. AT SEA.
"BLESSED ARE THE FLEXIBLE BECAUSE THEY SHALL NOT BE BENT OUT
OF SHAPE." A worthy travelers' maxim.
Breakfast in the main dining room. R. Bagel and lox. Bob
cheese omelette.
Lecture with Sammy interspaced with fake interaction with a
Panamanian lecturer. (Well done.) Latin America encompasses 20 languages.
Panama—fastest growing economy. 1/2 population live in
Panama City. ?
PC cuts through 50 miles of hard stone.
1880 French began. 22,000 died (mostly blacks)
1904 taken over by T Roosevelt. US controlled PC until 1977.
Operates by Panamanian gov. Saves
transit of 8000 miles.
For centuries people sailing around Cape Horn. Funds
distributed to SA countries.
Mountain range
divides Panama and Costa Rica.
Groups: Mestizo 1/2 population. Mixture.
950 species of birds. Baseball #1 sport.
Cumbria—favorite dance.
Tip hats. (Like my dad did to every woman he passed.)
Festivals. Carnivale. Everything stops. “Cuanto questa el sombrero.”
Food. Breakfast. Corn tortillas. Sancocho—chicken stew.
(Cure for hangover.) Ceviche. Fish acidity cooks it.
Empanadas. Filled with meats and cheeses.
Plantains. Fry. Boil for soup.
Me gustaroa in menu.
Libations. Pipa—drink from coconuts. Chicha. Pineapple
drinks. Seco—alcoholic.
Cafe Duran. Harvested on top of a volcano.
Im paid hermoso. Beautiful country.
Just under $100,000 for our ship to go through.
Next lecture:re. History and construction.
Expect muggy weather.
Panama 34M people. A little smaller than south Carolina.
About 45 transits a day.
Precolumbian
Civilization at least 11,000 years ago.
Spaniards came looking for a route. Found gold. Wanted to
sail it quickly back to Spain.
First Columbus wanted to get to Asia.
Spaniards under de Balboa established settlement. Lead
expedition.
CARLOS V of Spain. 1534 ordered region around river to be
surveyed.
The privateers. (Legal pirate—sanctioned by Queen.) Sir
Francis Drake captured gold from Spanish galleons. Also Henry Morgan.
Indigenous people live on stilts.
Kuna Indians. Textiles.
1780’s Alexander Von Humbolt. Made maps. Had ear of Thomas
Jefferson.
1854 US expedition. Inaccurate maps. Got lost in the jungle.
Book about it, “Darkest Jungle”.
Gold discovered in
San Francisco. 1847 Pacific Steamship Co. 150k arrived by sea.
Gold rush over by 1855.
Canal saved 5100 miles. Goods from West Indies, Asia to
Europe.
De Lesseps. Saw Panama in dry season. Later discovered
jungle almost impassable.
1883 1000’s of French workers died.
1884 yellow fever. Engineers brought over their own coffins.
Roosevelt became president in 1901. Wanted to ensure US
naval power could control both oceans.
Americans supported coup to separate Columbia from Panama.
1903.
Panama became independent. US paid Panama 10 M.
Walter Reed figured out that the disease was transferred
from mosquitos in Cuba. His colleague
began program in Panama. Wire screens on windows. Sprayed and cleaned out water
culverts. Eliminated yellow fever in 1905.
Workers. Alcoholism.
Teddy R visited.
US Corps of engineers. John Stevens. Built infrastructure
for railroad system. Had to shave off 2 mountains. Culebra cut.
Inhospitable conditions.
Created a village.
1907 Stevens and Goethals determined needed locks. Goethals
took over.
Each section raised ship 85 feet. 75 mile stretch.
Biggest danger—landslides.
By 1914 took 3 X as much as French.
Locks began in 1909. Poured concrete.
Gates designed after Leonardo Da Vinci’s prototypes. 3
chambers each transfers millions of gallons of water. Gates 6’ thickLowers
until get to sea level.
Opening of the canal 1914.
During WW2 guarded. After WW2 control contentious. Exacerbated
by the Suez canal crisis. US supported Nassar. Panama said then support us.
Carter in 1977 granted Panama authority. US concerned. Now Hong Kong controls
production around the canal.
We’ll go under the bridge of the americas—divides north and
South America.
Capacity expanded for larger ships last year. David
McDonough: path between the seas.
Average toll $54,000.
Nicaragua is now looking at a canal. Also looking at
northwest passage.
Lunch in the main dining room where life is civilized. Bob
had artichoke and goat’s cheese tart and peach crisp with cinnamon and oats.
Reuel, the classic Reuben sandwich stacked “mile high” (it isn’t) with corned
beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing and frozen key lime yoghurt
)because I’ll eat anything that says key Lime—key lime fritters, key lime
sausages—the opportunities are limitless. Both of our desserts are excellent.
Wine//the remainders of last night’s Chateau Neuf du Pape. Even better today.
Our evening server boy who’s always so friendly is Raju from India.
The wine tasting is free for Elites so we go.
We are Sat with two gentlemen whose wives are out shopping.
(Not a favorite situation for us.) We’re all Californians and after the tasting
we discuss what is happening to our poor state. First the fires, now the
mudslides. One says he takes $100 bottles from his son’s wine cellar whenever
he visits. I ask, “Does he notice?” He says yes but he knows I paid for his
college education. Funny.
Prosecco villa sandi. Prosecco—promoted as to live forever.
DOCG is better. Bubbles not as aggressive as Champagne,
Sanctuary.
California Chardonnay. Harvest 1st week in December. Sight. Smell. Taste.
Legs—fast is highest alc level.
Estancia meritage.
We had that the other night. 1988 contest to name these kinds of wines.
Meritage Alliance. Blend of at least 2 of certain grapes, no variety more than
90%.
Merlot Oberon.
Clever name. 13.9%. Aging 12 mos.
Bob says the wines were undistinguished and all tasted
alike. We agree that the last wine, the Merlot Oberon was our favorite. Soft.
Nevertheless a whole lotta napping going on follows. Ooh
 |
| JACUZI'D FOOTSEY |
Reuel’s routine:
 |
| STEAM NEXT |
 |
| LATE AFTERNOON VIEW FROM THE THELASATHERAPY POOL |
A comedian. Then Din din:
 |
| THE LONG GOLD LINE |
B. Grilled chicken salad. Corn chowder with sausage soup.
Main: Vegetable Korma. “Very good, well prepared but disappointing because it’s
mostly potatoes and not enough vegetables.
R. Tomato capacious with Pacific Northwestern-style crab cakes. )not the
finest example of the genre)
Soup: TpmKah Gai. (Meh.) Thai Chicken Soup. Main: Cowboy
steak (grill ion sirloin) with tobacco onions and country fries. Yeeha! Not
disappointing. Transcendent? No. Overwhelmed by the sweet barbecue sauce. But
ok.
Alas the Norman Love dessert is amazingly good.
FRIDAY JANUARY 12. PANAMA CANAL.
Bob reminds me that I’m missing my 7 am full body exercise
class. No way. Up and at em. Everybody’s up in anticipation of the early
entrance to the Canal and we seem to be absolutely on schedule.
 |
| THE CANAL'S A DAY AFFAIR--NEED SUSTENANCE |
Lunch in the main. Rebecca from Serbia says we are her
favorite boys. Her assistant vouches that she never says that to anyone but us.
Sure. Anyway we like Rebecca. Reuel a martini, Bob a glass of Chardonnay. Both
of us have Caesar salads with ranch dressing and a cherry trifle--mm mm good.
 |
| TAKING A BREAK |
“Mr. President are you a racist?” This shouted at him after
a ceremony honoring MLK. Re. Trump’s calling Africa and Haiti “shithole”
countries whose citizens shouldn’t be allowed entry here as opposed to Norway.
He wants to make America white again.
Rush up for the next lock. Water rushes out. 1 meter in one
minute out in 10 minutes. Finally figuring out how it works. Don’t ask. One
more lock to go.
I get out of the jacuzzi as the announcer says the gates are
opening for our final locks—Mira Flores—
Dinner. I give Kathy and Herb our blog card. Bob says that
since Tan, our server is Thai, I should give him the card too since it depicts
us sitting atop an elephant in Thailand. He seems delighted talking of his
elephant ride in Chang Mai. R. Oysters Rockefeller, (Not what I expected--too
much cream) turnip soup, grilled salmon. Bob appetizer chicken breast,
(amazingly disappointing-like having slices of chicken lunch meat), pork cordon
Blue (flavorful but wouldn’t order it again.)
Dessert: Carrot Cake.
 |
| A DISTRACTION |
I drag (yes I’m unkind) Bob up to the music contest (part of the Trivia game idea that’s so popular in these cruises) officiated by nelly Michael. Premise—of three song snippets, what do they have in common. The winning team gets 16 out of 20 right. We get 6. Oh well. Here’s one instance of strength in numbers.
SATURDAY JANUARY 13. AT SEA
Kasi works us oldsters hard at 7 am and I catch horrifying
glimpses of my grotesquely corpulent body in the mirror as I attempt her nasty
routines. Good morning! Greedy few have grabbed My ellypticals so I’m consigned
to the treadmill machine where the Saturday morning tv tells me I need to
meditate to relieve my stress. Do I have stress?
I’m determined to eat less. The Reuel Corporation needs to be contained in its expansion. Thus muesli, no pastries. Bob similarly determined succumbs to huevos rancheros “a great favorite of those who live in Southern California.” Server Rebecca, also a great favorite, confesses that she is always alone even when she is with someone. “I want to have a baby and leave this life.” I ask where she’s from. Serbia. “That’s the philosophy in your part of the world.” I say to Bob “I am soo happy,” alluding to Garbo as Nonotchka expressing her sadness. Bob asks her assistant if she will see family when we stop in Nicaragua. She says they will come to her. Good for Bob for remembering that she’s Nicaraguan. We both agree that it is one of the virtues of this small ship that we get to know staff and vice versa.
Lecture at 9 am.
Tender port. 10 minute walk to beachfront street. Sunday in
San Juan Del Sur so not everything open. 10 blocks in a colorful town. Granada
1 hour and half away is the colonial city. Pop 6M. This town 25K. Young
visitors because of surfing. Middle of South America. Sleepy town. Church will be open. 2
hours south of Managua.Palapas on the beach.
4th term of the president Ortega. Collecting power with his
wife Rosario.
Little hotels.
Sandino the national hero. Baseball number one
sport.
Collectivo buses—takes a long time. Not comfortable.
Christ statue above town.
3 indigenous tribes. Columbus sailed by after 
Honduras.
Honduras.
Spaniards wiped out the entire indigenous population.
19th c.: lots of problems.1855–an American declared himself
president, Wm. Walker.
1909 US provided support. Possibility of a canal.
Military presence up to 70’s.
Samosa 40’s to ‘60’s began dynasty. US companies supported
him. Poverty. Polluted water causing deaths. Most beef bought by US from
Nicaragua by ‘60’s.
Gotta leave for Zumba at 9:30. Heat saps strength somewhat.
“Mr. President, are you a racist?”
Exhausted after Zumba--telling Bob he’d enjoy it falls I
believe on deaf ears. Nice soft bed carefully made up by Solomon— he’s 42 has
two sons, one 21, one 11 back home in the Philippines. Settle into the comfort
of Joy Reid’s unceasing articulate protest against Trump and the complicit
Republicans.
Bob tells me to stop lamenting my loss of youth and beauty
(which I, in truth, have been doing) and take my shower. Easier said.
Upstairs at the buffet. I claim a bottle of Monday’s Pinot
Noir while Bob gathers us delicious pizza slices, (Margherita and
pepperoni). Heavenly looking out at the
azure (not sure what color that is. Blue?) sea,
specs of blinking light like stars scattered on the surface. Birds
trolling for fish thereon. It’s tragic,
but we consume the bottle.
Lecture. Stand up comedy. From mafia. Gin joints. Ifboxer
they supported stand up boxer. Also comic. (Hence Stand up comedian American
invention. Mark Twain. 1835-1910. He would tell a “bit”. Danny Rice. Dressed as
clumsy black slave—called Jim Crow. Minstrel shows—making fun of people already
oppressed. Theme. End men. Non musical stump speech. 1820 into 20th century.
Economics drove stand up comedy. Vaudevillle. 9 acts and one variety
entertainer.
Peoria Ill thought to be representative of America.
Break a leg-meant hope you get on stage beyond the legs, the
wings.
Vaudeville—first speak comedy. Family appropriate. May
Irwin. Woodrow Wilson requested her to perform. 1st lady of laughter.
Structure. Setup and punchline= joke.
Get laugh every 14 seconds. I act 200 jokes.
Frank Fay—role of MC. 1st stand up comedian. Seemingly
improvised, conversational tone. But he was anti-Semitic.
Will Rogers and WC Fields made leap to film from vaudeville.
Cinema led to the death of vaudeville.
Borscht Belt. Bossy mothers, pesky wives. One liner comics.
East. Chitlin Circuit.
One man propelled Stand up comedy. Bob Hope. 1903-2003. 1st
to employ team of writers. His freshness made him a star.
40’s-50’s tv. Berle. Sullivan (23 years).
Mort sahl. Sat down. Talked politics. Comedy records.
Newhart. Experimenting with different presentation.
Lenny Bruce. Talked about himself. Cult following. Court battles.
Re. Free speech.
1960’s comedy clubs. 10 years later: Comedy Store.
Disco finished. Left venues. Thus comedy clubs—boom.
Carson hosted tonight show 30 years. Made careers. Also
Saturday Night Live.
Steve Martin started out as a street performer. Sold silly.
Carlin. Arrested on obscenity charges. “7 Dirty Words”. Up
to Supreme Court. FCC vs Pacifica 1971. (Shows Carlin clip baseball vs.
football) 1990’s end of comedy boom. TV. Comedy Central.
Now internet.
Corporate engagements. Making own audiences.
Nothing replaced the live comedian.
Will Rogers. Taking comedians seriously Now politicians as a
joke.
Tips. 1. Know the joke. 2. Cutting the fat. (Get to the
point of the joke.) 3. Be expressive. 4. Know your audience. 6. Have fun. Be
fearless.
(Well done. Impressive lecture.)
 |
| KATHY AND DICK MILLER |
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| SWEET RAJU, OUR ASST. SERVER |
The breakdown revealed at our Elite social:
Elite 152
Platinum 153
Ruby 59
Gold 126
Thus there are 490 captains circle passengers (80%)
Estancia meritage. Bob prosciutto . He likes. Chowder.
Likes. Chateaubriand. (Over cooked
though flavorful). R crab soufflé. Magnifique. Double consommé. So so, Salmon
(only ok) lobster tail (always good) and
lemon ravioli (chewy, unimpressive) our mantra. Insanely full. Nevertheless ,
R. Chocolate hazelnut bar with citrus cream. Ok let’s get serious—I almost
fainted from the pure joy of it. Bob, chocolate marshmallow ice cream.
What the World Needs Now is the name of the “production
show”, a tribute to Bacharach. The show band plays dance tunes before the show.
We orders cognacs. “You are the sunshine of my life”, bossa Nova beat.
Cognac and a seat next to the follow spot.
Have some photos taken post show.
SUNDAY JANUARY 14. SAN JUAN DEL SUR, NICARAGUA
We wake up (or rather are rudely awakened by the stupid
phone alarm ringing) to the sight of a big lump of island silhouetted in the
sunrise. It’s really quite lovely and I wonder if we’ve made the right decision
to opt for the sunset side of the ship on our next voyage. Also note the tender
being lowered as we inch closer to the SanJuandel Sur harbor.
Bob seems to think it’s an hour earlier than it is so hence
we believe we’ve loads of time to have breakfast upstairs. Bob’s a real man’s
breakfast, Reuel’s a monk’s meal of
oatmeal and yogurt. The battle of the bulge has begun! (And ends here.)
Tour. Ramon is guide. Taking the Pnamerican road to see
Lake Nicaragua. Then an hour and a half to Granada. Oy. Passing the bay, the
statue of Christ in the distance. (Catholic people.) 15 k in this town. 80% are
fishermen. Center of Nicarraguan tourism.
Granada, the oldest city in Central America, suffered
attacks by pirates in the 16th and 17thc. 1856 destroyed city. Rebuilt. Now
it’s the 1st European city in America. In 1912 the currency was named after
Cordova. Temp today between 80-90 F. Humidity also between 80-90
degrees. Spaniards built houses to withstand humidity and with courtyards for
fresh air.
The Main square in Granada is surrounded by important
buildings, eg city hall, cathedral. Columbus Park,
Two seasons, dry nov-April wet may-oct. temp rainy season
65 degrees. Dry season 40-50 degrees. March and April most difficult in the
pacific 100-120 degrees. Trees lose leaves to save energy. Cattle farms for
beef—cows from India resistant to draught. Agricultural country/-sugar cane,
peanuts, rice, corn. Peanuts important for cows. Don’t produce milk. Rivas was
president for 2 years in the 1890’s. Tropical country—many fruits.
Food, basically rice and (red) beans. Yopinto. Chicken is
#1 meat. Beef is expensive. 1 pound is $4. For a Family of four meat costs $16.
Statue of guy transporting gold on a donkey. Route to California only 35 days.
Island largest on freshwater lake. One volcano is active,
the other Not. Named after women’s breasts.
Active volcano called conception. Its Last big
eruption—1986. Column of gases 6000 feet. Evacuation system will prevent
injury.
58 volcanos in Nicaragua Chile is 5 times as big but has
only 56 volcanos. Nicaraguan volcanos emit gases. This prevents big
earthquakes. The Reason there is no canal here is because of the possibility of
activating volcanos. Panama however has only one volcano.
We walk to the beach to view the volcanos. My God we’ve
been here before! Funny.
We see the Windmills which produce green energy, a big
deal here. The Hibiscus is the National flower.
Ramon shows us a fruit—make maracas from it—also good.
Leaves cosidered holy because shaped like a cross.
Riva
s is the capital of Nicaragua---200k pop.
Pass baseball stadium. Marines in the 20’s brought
baseball here (and to Panama). Bike taxis used especially for ladies who are
shopping and won’t need to carry their bags home.
We passfruit stand selling papayas, plantains,
watermelons and oranges. He shows us an enormous Nicaraguanpapaya—taller trees.
We pass a Truck with sugar cane. On its way to the mill
for processing.
Don’t burn fields anymore. Saves health of the people.
Coffee is processed entirely by hand.
16 tobacco factories. Export 20-25M to USA. Export
teakwood. (USA and Canada main market). Average salary $350 monthly.
School years starts in February and ends in Dec. this
year students will start their English classes in 1st year. (Was 7th grade.)
$80 mo to rent house. When work for American cos. Double minimum salary.
Inflation 1% annually. Between ‘85-88— Civil war. In ‘89 900% inflation. Don’t
permit junk food in schools. He was born in ‘79. ‘37-‘79 Samosas dictatorship.
Then N copied Cuban system. Food rationed. Peace in 1990. 1st female president.
(Husband assassinated by Samosas.) She Rebuilt the economy. Reformed the
constitution. 2 5-year pres term. Stopped mandatory military service. But now
Ortegas are a dictatorship . Husband and powerful wife. Reduced domestic
violence. Protect children with mandatory child support. 50% women in
government, counteracts the pervasive machismo in this country. 65% of
population is under 36. 3 American universities in Nicaragua.
Welcome to Granada. The Cemetery we pass: 1st president
buried here. Buried above ground.
Clay houses, Adobe, for cool houses. Oldest houses built
in the 1700’s.
Haltava neighborhood. Lady of mercy church. Can see black
color of the fire. Cordova founder of Granada born in Granada Spain. Hence
Spanish name.
Next to north shore of lake Nicaragua.
Wm walker (from Tennessee) set the fire of 1856. (If I
can’t have it, no one can.)
Art studio. Banana fiber paper. Recycle.
Oldest Catholic Church of Granada.
One place we’ve not been: (wrong!) the museum.
And sure enough there are the old 800 AD Mayan statues.
Imported from island where they escaped the ravages of the Conquistadors.
We see ritual pots as old as 3-4000 years (those didn’t have color). They were used To
collect blood of the virgin sacrifices.
Kathy, our table neighbor (Dick doesn’t like tours) who is taking the same tour and we have Italian paninis at the coffee shop as well as delicious capacitors. She buys a bag of coffee. Next door is the art studio and some lovely colorful paintings in the primitive style.if I had more time here I would have bought one no doubt as well as some maracas inscribed with our names. The rush saves us money.
We see hospital destroyed by a 1970’s earthquake. Neo
classical style, built in 1920.
We see an occasional untethered horse or cow by the side
of the road. They seem to know enough not to walk into traffic.
Pass the finals of baseball the dragons vs. ? Best of 7,
then Latin American series.
Conception (aka the concho) and Madeiras are the
volcanos.
Going to be very late for the first of our massage
appointments, 3:pm. It’s almost 3 and we’re not even back at San Juan Del Sur.
Then there’s the tender ride which starts at 3.10. Oy. I try not to let it
bother me being on holiday—but am unsuccessful as I rush breathlessly into the
spa with my tale of tour lateness. It doesn’t matter. Katie, our therapist is
waiting. She’s really good and the $98 scalp, neck shoulder and arm-hand
massage is very relaxing. And there’s Bob at 4:30 ready for his massage which
he also enjoys. Interesting that now a 15% tip is included.
MONDAY JANUARY 15. AT SEA.
Up sufficiently in advance of my 7 am body work routine in
the gym to finish the previous day’s diary entry.
We are seated perilously close to the club class section of
the dining room. Perhaps we’ll be treated better compliments of our proximity
to our betters if that’s even possible.
My favorite breakfast lox (or salmon if you are snooty)
and bagels and Bob, ham and cheese
omelette “lots of cheese, very little ham but very good nevertheless.”
Mexican double header. Huatulco, newer resort—late 80’s same
folks who developed Cancun. $1 dollar to 19 pears. Long dock—little motorcycle
shuttles-/few $. Taxi fares regulated. Of food. “You may not have the
antibodies to support the bacteria here.” La Crucecita. Little town. Artisan
town.
Mescal. Stronger than tequila.
Docking 10 1/2 miles to town. Free shuttle. Also stops at
Coromel Beach.
La Paz Not as commercial as bigger towns.
We’ve a few minutes to the next lecture. My card doesn’t
work and the cashier runs off with my card. And is very helpful. So I win $1.75
at the slots before the next lecture on The Aztecs.
Maya’s would orient their main buildings with the stars. Many civilizations did that. Satellites discover these sites, groupings. Many built with limestone, covered in stucco. Dissolved into souls. Some plants thrived.
Maya’s would orient their main buildings with the stars. Many civilizations did that. Satellites discover these sites, groupings. Many built with limestone, covered in stucco. Dissolved into souls. Some plants thrived.
Olmecs disappeared c 400 ad. Known for giant carved round
balls of stone. Stumbled on eye of face.
Maya concentrated in Southeast.
Started before 900 Bc.
260 day calendar. Gestation time period for humans.
Did not have an empire—basically city states at war with one
another.
Writing—emblem glyphs. Stood for individuals and cities.
Archaeological sites Salvador up to Yucatán.
Tikal—built on earlier site—400-300 bc. Buildings covered in
stucco. Limestone locally mined.
Had no beasts of burden (Spaniards introduced them 1000
years later) Had only stone tools.
Grew over several centuries. Had 7 ball courts.
Tikal restored by U of P. Population 435,000. City only
10,000. (23 square miles)
Teotihuacan. Multicultural destroyed 650 AD.
Feathered serpent. Important.
Chichen Itza. At the mouth of the well of the itza. Many
diffferent people traveled there to give sacrifices. Had an observatory.
Palenque. “Land of strong houses”. 1000 years of history.
226 bc-1123 ad. King Pacal ruled 63 years.
550 logograms in Mayan language, 150 syllables.
Collumbus met up with Mayans 1502 — 4th voyage.
I nod off. Is it the gentle rocking of the ship? Or the
droning on of the lecturer.
Lunch. We have Hungarian goulash soup (Bob says it is pleasant. "One shouldn’t expect brilliance from something called goulash soup.” (I beg to differ. I had high hopes for it and they were dashed) and London boil.
B. “Incredibly wonderful rich sauce”. We have the remains our Estancia
Meritage. Not many dining in the dining room; the others must be at the
trough—I mean buffet. We prefer the civilized atmosphere; we’re being served.
Coffee and plantation mint tea completes the event. Speaking of which, we muster our discipline and avoid dessert and the wine tasting event, Bob insisting that our ownership of a wine bar has made us cynical and impervious to the dubious allure of these events. Nevertheless we’ve plunked down 100 samolis apiece for an upcoming tasting pairing.
A long afternoon looms ahead, the film of the day, The Big
Sick we’ve seen before. So I ascend to the lovely library in search of a
book—imagine an actual 3D book—and Bob discovers his well stocked nook tablet
in the cabin where I bring my find, a Louis Auchincloss short story collection,
The Young Apollo. His old fashioned American Brahmin tales always make me feel
good—interrupted only by arthritis insulting my fingers. Soak ‘em in hot water.
Ah the ravages of age! And the temporary remedies for Age.
Love our mini-suite. We take smug pleasure in believing
(perhaps erroneously) that the passengers curled up by windows in lounges or
lying on deck chairs on decks are fleeing their nasty dark interior staterooms.
Poor deprived creatures. (?)
It’s 4 pm, time to seek whirling gyres of water to submerge
in. The rocking ship creates good resistance for a swim however brief and then
the jacuzzi helps the nasty fingers—got a new regimen goal now: keep those
fingers dipped in delicious warmth.
At the lotus spa desk I enquirer of a full body massage for
The B and me. She says there’s the 5 steps to heaven massage. I say I’ll
require a lot more than 5 steps to get there. Make em laugh. No Make em laugh.
Cocktails upstairs. It’s salsa night.
Dinner. Our companions opt out this eve. Didn’t Malbec. R.
Smoked salmon with cream cheese and chives in a puffed pastry.
Fabulous! B. Ruby grapefruit and fresh mint. “It’s fruit.
It’s fine.” R. Turkey chowder and corn niblets. Just ok. The soups have not
been brilliant. Bob likes his salad. “Who doesn’t like a salad with Blu cheese
dressing?” R. Chicken tandoori. I’m not enraptured. The cucumber raita helps
but not enough. B. Pot roast. “Very good. I’d say I wouldn’t kick it out of
bed. But why would I take a pot roast to bed?” Ta dum! Someone's having dinner with
Henny Youngman.
Mango strudel—so so. Bob calls it “nasty”. The crust envelope is tough. The strudel
seems under-ripe. Bob’s chocolate-something is just ok “it’s ice
cream”.
We always close the dining room. I guess because we have a
good time with our compadres.
Courvousiers s’il vous plais before the show (love it)
—a-singer. She’s really good—sexy, and by the time she sings Uptown
Saturday Night Bob has gone beddy bye but I mouth the words and sway
shamelessly.
TUESDAY JANUARY 16. HUALTUCO
Bob decides upstairs is crowded so we go downstairs to the
dining room which is fortunate because the special breakfast is my favorite,
steak and eggs and the wait staff is friendly and Jolly. Rebecca whose station
we’re not sitting at comes over to tell us we’re her favorites and betrayed her
and that she’s alone at night and needs someone—she’s an absolute hoot.
Everything is said with a Slavic twinkle in her eyes. And as we approach our
destination we pass multiple rocky hills followed by beachy coves—nifty.
Our guide Lalo is going to be funny (unintentionally) sort
of an aging Cantinflas—lining us up on the pier. He’s a bit manic.
36 public beaches. 9 bays. 5 Protected as a National Park.
Trees lose their foliage 3 month’s of the year. April May looks like a desert.
9 month’s with no rain showers.
Earthquake of 8.1. Here. San Andreas fault.
Tanguna stop. Means muchacha Bonita (pretty. Woman). Bob.
“He’s making me tired.” (Lalo is manic.) Pass upscale hotels.
Rio copalita flows into the Pacific. Ancient civilation
lived along the river.
Women live to 40 because always pregnant.
Pass by Adult “Secrets” Hotel.
Stones in the sea looked like hopping rabbits. Hence
Cornechons ? Rabbits.
One of two worldwide cities that have ecological
certifications.
 |
| WONDERFULLY SILLY |
 |
| PLAIN OUTSIDE |
 |
| FANCIFUL INSIDE |
 |
| PINATA PARTY |
At rug and carving workshop: before Spaniards there was cotton
weaving. After that, silk. Pick out insects eating cactus mix the squashed insects to
get colors.
Hualtico means place where the wood is worshipped. Mid of
16th c. it was the most important port in the Pacific.
My anger is almost unbridled. I’m being asked again to buy
more internet minutes. But I’d been careful!
Is there anything I can do? When the internet office is open we’ll be
having our grand massage, and my anger will have lost its edge.
Here’s Salvador at the door. He’s late to make up our room
so we are exiled to the heights of the Pacific Lounge with our reading matter
until at 2:45 Bob decides we must eat . . . The light Mexican goodies lunch on
our tour was bound not to suffice.
Light sandwiches and a bottle-all to be consumed—of
Woodbridge Chardonnay. Listening to the rich “retired” gay man on the world
cruise and his “mother” paying companion. Bob says he feels like a character on
the Orient Express, I say I feel like a character in an Auchincloss short story
(which I’ve been reading), and we’re looking out at the activities on our
neighboring vessel Amadeia which we think is German. The passengers look
elderly but there are many stairs. Well they’re German.
It’s 3:30. We’re ready for our pampering. I tell Bob if it
wasn’t for the accident of birth he’d be picking cotton or something at this
his old age instead of having consumed a 1/2 bottle of wine and readying for a
full body massage.
 |
| BOB GETTING READY FOR HIS MASSAGE. |
Ok we both enjoyed the massage. Really. Enjoyed.
I continue the pleasure with my thelasotherapy routine.
Everybody, including Kathy and Dick order the mushroom
tartlets. Thank god it’s good. Bob: One of those fishes I’m not sure I like and
I’m not sure I don’t like.” I hear Kathy say it’s crunchy. I think it’s one of my favorite appetizers.
The chateaubriand is a triumph. Smooth as buttah.
The singers (accompanied by some dancers) perform their own show this evening, offer some
bio background and show they are both above average entertainers who can hold
their own
WEDNESDAY JANUARY 17. AT SEA
Well I miss my 7 am body work torture group which I guess
affords me more sleep—not Bob’s problem. The dear boy gets his zzz’s in spades.
We’re unhurried enough to take luxo dining room breakfast and request Rebecca
who gets to serve “my boys” despite that the 9 am lecture that looms very soon
ahead. I, liking a challenge, select the Haddock special breakfast, Bob,
neither liking challenge nor fish, chooses the “farm” breakfast with eggs and
every foodstuff known to man, though he will pretend he didn’t know it would be
so huge. When Rebecca asks me how I like mine I say it’s “strange” it’s
salty—because the thing is smoked Bob
reminds me.
“One of the problems of being old,” Bob says.
Catch only minutes of the chocolate lecture.
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| NOT THE LAST ELEVATOR PHOTO |
3 varieties: criollo;.1% of crop; Forestero; 90% of current output; trinitario
—Found in Trinidad (but cross pollination of all these).
1 tree grows 30 pods; produces only 2-3 pounds of cocoa
nibs.
That’s as far as I get (Bob who stays on thinks he did a
good job) because I like to run upstairs to Zumba early to dance to the
pre-class music—that there are no fans makes the session harder (or is it that
I’m that much out of shape).
We’re a bit late for a session that we always enjoy and a
specialty (we know since we’ve been on other cruises with her) of Sammi, the
cruise director, that is, going behind the scenes with her staff, in this case
interviewing the singers and dancers, the “boys” and the “girls”. They get to
talk about their background, their experiences with Princess, how they
auditioned, that sort of thing. It’s clear that this small ship requires more
of this smaller cast asked to perform more functions than on the big ships. We
come away thinking Sammy’s a “tough cookie” because when a passenger asks do
they get more money for working harder, she takes the passenger to task for
asking an “inappropriate” question (big no no Sammi). I find myself remembering
my experiences in theatre and on the cruise ship in days of yore.
At home (in the sanctuary of our cabin, that is) I find
our February-March 2015 blog post of our trip around South America, in
particular the post of our visit to San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua (we’ll never be
back here again said Bob. Never say never.) which also to our not immediate
recollection we visited this trip. And we enjoy revisiting that guide’s more
candid description of Nicaragua’s economic and political life. In particular we
note the photo then of the representations of Indian dancers who are not
present now. Unfortunately the guide did not understand my question about that
so we still don’t know why the suspended figures have been removed.
Lunch in the dining room. My seafood quesadilla, ok it’s
an indulgence, is wonderful. both of us choose the montechristos. “Not
brilliant”. And we demand brilliance truth be told. I’m feeling imperious and
overpriviledged—that’s what happens on these hermetic experiences aka cruise
voyages. As Bob reminds it will be a rude landing in the routine of San Diego
life. Bob has an amoretto cake dessert. “Not something I will ever order again.
It’s more of a pie. I expected a cake. I don’t dislike it. I’m mostly confused
by it.” Ok.
Pianist is tonight’s headliner. A fat guy who performs in
Vegas—and cruise ships—never found an arpeggio he didn’t like. Actually he’s
quite good and presents a variety as he moves from flight of the bumble bee to bogey woogy.
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| CHEF AND NUTTY MAITRE D' |
Dinner. R. Grilled calamari steak and poached baby squid.
Sounds better than it is. B. Tapas style
chorizo. “The worst part I can’t decide if I like it.” Gazpacho. Bob. “Not
really gazpacho; the description is much better than the reality” I am
surprised by the kick. B. Island spiced jerk chicken. He dislikes. R. My
Treneti ai fruti ai mare is ok, perhaps not hot enough. But how can you screw
with such a thing?
Desert. R. Chocolate mousse with dark chocolate cream and
coconut. OMG!
THURSDAY JAN 18. AT SEA.
In time for 7 am body work but some lady steals my space in the corner which puts me in a
foul mood exacerbated by the awareness that Kasi the Thai (?) instructor’s
command of English and lack of energy makes her inadequate to being the sole
fitness person onboard. When one woman rebels and shouts “what did she say I
can’t hear her. What? Circle? Circle!” (Shouted). I inwardly cheer.
I want to be spare with breakfast because we’ve got that
major big deal lunch so Rebekahwho has kidnapped us from the table we were
assigned “why you sit here? (Accusingly) and to the server “I’m taking my
boys.” Which she summarily does. “This is the honeymoon table.” It has our name
on it, I say to her easily approving
laughter.
The Mayan Calendar is the 10 0’clock lecture. Doesn’t
sound as exciting as the history of Chocolate but we’ve got an opening in our .
. . Calendar.
Calendar is a stepping point to understanding human
nature. Good news. World did not end Dec. 21, 2012. ((Also bad news.) Jose
Arguelles predicted it from Mayan calendar. End of 5126 year cycle.
Popol Vuh= Bible. Version 1584. At first there were 2
gods, Heart of Heaven and Queyzal.
Then Seven macaw and his 2 sons. Said we’re better than original
creators. Final: created people out of maize and water who had proper attitude.
Considers how world might end.
Mayans lived within cycles. Each day had a character
associated with it. Shaman (“day keeper”) predicted the future.
Math based on 13 and 20 (fingers and toes)
260 days=birth cycle. 18 month’s of 20 days. 360 + 5 Days
Maya calendar off by only 33 seconds.
Summations also observed Venus.
Scribes carved messages in the walls of caves.
THE wine lunch.
Phalanx of servers and captains. One for each of the 15
(wealthy) diners.
Place cards, beautiful setting in Sabatini’s. As if to
mark the specialness (and expensiveness) of this wine tasting-pairing there are
lighted candles, a cruise ship taboo broken in tribute.
Bellini opener
Appetizer—crab cake
4 wines from Tuscany. 2 from California.
My tablemate Dr. Charles Mitchell. 7 world cruises (I think that’s because he’s married to (or more likely, takes trips with) Sandy the future cruises lady from Coronado who’s sitting next to him)
Tignanello $99 paired with beef carpaccio lovely (all 3
ingredients, carpaccio, ricotta, Maitre d’ Jokes about the genie red wine now
we gotta pee in the boat
Luche Della 2013
$125 from Montecino mix Merlot and Sangiovese. Mondavi 1st. Paired With ravioli
filled with duck pateControlled temperature for high alcohol.
Mondavi $145 2013 (great weather for optimal development)
Daniel introduces it. (Of cab Sauvignon, Can choose pure or blended) affinity
for oak. Founded 1966. ‘79 founded Woodbridge for premium popular wines. This
from his Tucson ? Vineyard. This marks his 50th anniversary. “For all the
friends well never remember; for all the nights we’ll never forget.” Paired
with Homemade taliarini. It’s wonderful with onions.
Opus 1 $229 2009 from Mondavi. Napa Valley. Meritage. 82%
cab Sauvignon. Best to drink after 3 years. Full bodied. 14.5% aged 18 month’s
in oak barrels. Ooh. Wonderfully smooth. With gnocchi served on crab mouse
arugula and cherry tomato’s. Everyone loves the gnocchi—I love the sauce more.
Thank god, Bob drops the name of the Countess Papafava
our Venice landladyto his neighbors who love Italy.
Solia $260+ “highlights of this event”
Guano al Tasso $109 2009. Cab Frank, cab Sauvignon and
San giovese.
Strip loin steak on purée of artichoke soufflé, blueberry
consommé, “Better than Chateau Kaymart”
1385 1st year of the grape.
Guado al Tasso. Antonio pastry port wine with Chile port
lime reduction.
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| THE DECKS |
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| SONG DUO--QUITE GOOD |
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MAP OF THE WORLD CRUISE |
Finally to the Pacific Lounge for martinis—I’m unhappy
because mine has lemon peels which still retains that awful lemon flavor when
the lemons are removed—details, details). A few cheese slices from the Elite
hors d’oevre Bar before we head to the 7:30 (we’re skipping dinner) production
show, Motor City (Motown songs). Crowded at 7:10. Excellent work. Princess has
yet to miss on entertainment this trip.
Bob insists we at least look at the buffet upstairs. I
note the tables are set for dinner with table cloths and lights. Bob nabs a
chocolate chip cookie.—That’s it—to take back to the cabin. Such restraint.
FRIDAY JANUARY 19. LA PAZ, MEXICO
Early morning call for our closeup Mr. and Mr. DeMille—7:30
for our tour of LaPaz. We’re supposed to return by 12:30 and for a moment I
fear we won’t be back for the afternoon movie but having discovered it earns a
16% tomatometer score, no biggee. Eminently avoidable.
Buffet upstairs yields giant custom omelette for Reuel and
for Bob a waffle with strawberry atop which he much enjoys. Even the coffee he
claims is better this morning unlike the typical “dishwater”. He could line up
at the bar for a specialty coffee, latte con shmatte, but that’s not the way he
rolls.
Buenas Dias. 1st tour called is snorkeling with the sea
lions. That’s us I say and Bob gets upset until I let him know it’s joke time.
But I secretly vow to snorkel with the sea beasts next time we’re here.
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| SLOTS BECKON |
We are at port of Picholini. La Paz founded in 1535. 271K
population. Most important employer—the government. This is capital of the
state. Specific tourism—nature. 2 states Baja California nord and sud. Bounded
by the sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean. 45% of territory is protected. This
presents a challenge for commercial fishing.
The church. Built 1860.( 89% of population. Jewish community
too.) Neoclassic colonial. Not many ornaments.
Bob is fascinated by Our Lady floating on a cloud behind the
altar. Stations of the cross are in English, a gift of an American.
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| LOVES HIS KID |
Verdict so far: remarkably uninteresting town. It’s not our
guide’s fault. His English is excellent and he has charm.
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| COLONIAL HODGE-PODGE |
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| WELL-ENDOWED NATIVES |
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| DEAD NATIVE |
Mexico. Baja. More than 600 species of cactus. Much on
history. Indigenous people disappeared. Theory: diseases from conquerors.
Photos of Baja cave painting.
He says defensively that crime is everywhere. It’s
altercations among cartels. When El
Chapo was re-apprehended, issues ceased.
Returning to our bus from our malecon walk we see Kathy and
Dick who says after complimenting the multitude of photos of us "I almost
bought your photograph for you". My response. “Almost is a very important word
in the history of friendship.”
Waiting for our bus driver. Wha happened?
MEX 121M inhabitants. MEX City. 22M inhabitants. No 1 silver
producer.
Driver 20 minutes late; next stop a pottery factory.
Tradition of day of the dead: merged with Catholic
tradition. Nov 1&2. From Central to the South Halloween is meaningless.
Cartoonist satirizing and mocking politicians. Celebration not as complex in
North. In state of Michoca, lake with small island. Nov 1. Celebrate children
who died. Bring toys to ceremony. Nov. 2 adults. Bring music. Not laughing at
death—respect.
Of Memo, He has three ages. Emotional (20) biological (56).
Intellectual (67). His parents had a travel agency. 1st tour guide e Experience
at 16. He’s a surveyor. Studied civil engineering. Switched to bus admin. CFO to
MEX airline. By 2000 resumed tour guiding. During summer Professor in
administration, tourism. No longer married. Now can make many ladies happy not
just one.
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| REALLY? HOORAY! |
1 hour 45 m from San Diego. Property taxes .02.
We Nap of course. Then as it’s sail away time there’s hubbub
on the pool deck—"2 cool" singing and Reuel submerged in the jacuzzi basking.
B. Goat cheese soufflé (liked it 8 of 10), beef medallions. (These are truly really wonderful if a bit
much to eat.)
Catching the singer who is really quite fine. Great voice
and presentation though she could be more involved in the story of her song. Alas I sleep through 2/3 of it.
SATURDAY, JANUARY 20. AT SEA
No exercise class this morning so I take to the treadmill
and elyptical as much to exercise as to take in the dreadful news of the
government shutdown and watch the Republicans and Democrats point fingers at
one another.
We take breakfast in the dining room presided over by
Rebekah and Janiris. I take their pictures which delights them. Rebekah tells
us she’s training for waitress—we thought she was one already—and they make
only $300 a month now. She bought an apartment in Serbia where she hopes to settle
once she’s struck it rich as a Princess waitress for one contract.
Last Zumba class of this segment. Michael takes over
Zumba for the next segment. It’s a little rocky (and so am I—hangover?). I’d
hope to get a little pre-Zumba dancing in but am buttoned holed by a lady with
a Southern accent who says though they’ve never sailed with Princess before,
they’re on the world cruise. I say brave. She says stupid. Why? Terrible food.
Not enough to do. And doesn’t compare to Oceania which has—she, not snobbish,
hesitates to say—a better class of people.
Culinary presentation with galley. We know the scenario after myriad such presentations. The
maitre d' and chef engage in amusing banter as they assemble a dish to ooos ahs
and laughter. Oscar, the maitre d’ provides the yuk yuk jokes.
Pool deck and bloody Mary’s.
Talent show.
Movie. Glass Castle. Long. Hackneyed tale of bitter father
who both abuses and loves his children and how they escape his clutches.
Harrelson as the dad overplays. An adaptation of a novel that was probably a
better experience.
Martinis ensuite: Let’s face it, a martini in the comfort
of our cabin is . . . Comforting. We get to slurp and watch the government
shutting down and the ocean showing its white caps as we rock pretty
dangerously.
Din din. Bob: Thai wraps, likes tomato soup, beef Wellington.
Looks great. So so. R. Escargots
bourguignon, ok—not the best I’ve had.
Goat’s cheese and apple soup, broiled lobster tail. Verdict-- risotto great; tail ok
SUNDAY JANUARY 21. AT SEA.
As it turns out a cold egg
McMuffin from the buffet somehow blunts its innate allure. We feel it’s ok to
have breakfast since the “Sunday Brunch” is anytime between 10:30 and 1:30.
Rocky seas, very Rocky, although pretty to view, present a
hazard for doing the morning exercise routines in the gym and taking the stairs
and, well, walking the hallways to one’s stateroom. The sedentary life
becomes convenient and excusable on such
days.
Today’s “enrichment” lecture: Christopher Columbus . 525
years ago. “Veo Tierra!” I see Land. Name? Colon—the dove. (Colombo—Italian).
B. 1451. He was a Genoan (not Italian). Father became tavern owner. Columbus
moved out at age 14 to go to sea as an apprentice. 1479 m. Felipa Moniz, dau of
a Baron/explorer. Got king’s permission. Son Diego. Went to King John 2 of
Portugal for sponsorship. But in ‘87 John sent Bartholomew Dias to find a route
around Africa—did. Believed priest John had an army on the east coast of
Africa. Not found. Columbus and son move to Spain. Frequented apothecary shop
(cafe). Lived at Abbey.
Spain’s wars with moors were costly.
Led 4 expeditions. Santa Maria 62’ long. 18’ wide. Nina 50’
long. Pints 56’ long. Rough sailing. Pinto crashed. Wrote in “discovered
islands” that natives would be receptive to Catholicism. Isabella thought they
were her people. Disaster for indigenous people followed.
2nd voyage 1493, returned 1496. As governor, bloodthirsty.
4th voyage. Departed. 1502. Returned 1504. Indians knew what was going on. C.
Exaggerated riches.
Legacy. Hero to Europe and Mediterranean.
But Opened door to conquistadores. A destroyer.
But history is written by the victors. (Churchill)
Cruisespeaker@comcast.net to request
certificate of surviving Bermuda Triangle. Bob wonders where Princess got this
lecturer. He’s clearly unimpressed.
Passing through the Casino, I enquire why my “winnings” such
as they are did not register on my shipboard account. Seems the casino has a
separate account and I get $21.80 from the nice lady in the cage. (I’m hooked
for future voyages.)
Ensuite we discuss tips (even though we’re being debited $28
a day for gratuities): $40 to Salvador, our steward, to Than and Raju, our
fixed seating servers, $20 each and to our occasional breakfast/lunch servers
Rebekah $20, Janiris $10.
We decide to go upstairs to the panorama lounge aka room
with a view for bloodies and trivia but
no bartenders are in evidence—I guess no one wants to numb the senses. Since we
are not serious players and are not part of a playing group, that does not
apply.
Ok we don’t win—not near: what was used in WW2 to keep
moisture off field glasses? Duct tape. Who knew? Not us. Anyway banal Fun.
Then there’s the big campy Mexican brunch with
transformed dining room, gaudy Mexican
colors, flags and serving staff costumed as Thai, Slavic etc. mustachioed Viva
Zapatas. We give in to requests for us to buy terribly sweet strawberry
Margheritas and when there is the inevitable server conga line Rebecca dances
by and handing us maracas gets us to join in and there Bob and I are dancing around
the room to the delighted applause of the patrons.
What hasn’t been very promising in the past, the passenger
chorus, turns out to be a pleasant surprise on the Pacific Princess. A large
cohort of male and female passengers have been (within limitations of course)
whipped into shape by the lounge singer/pianist.
A side trip to Sandi at the Future Cruises desk nets us a
print out of our April 2019 transpacific cruise. We’re on our way—in 2019.
It’s packing up time—boo hoo—which I allow (such a good guy)
Bob to do in his expert manner while I get to watch Meet The Press.
(Distribution of labor.)
As we wait in the cabaret for the piano showman Ryan Ahern
to do a new show, Bob notes, wistfully I guess, that this is the last night. I
say it’s almost like this trip never happened. Strange that. Bob says “He’s
very proficient but it’s like eating candy all night.”
Our last wine ticket entitles is to a bottle, Wild Horse
Pinot noir Bob chooses. “It fits your parameters’” by which he means it’s $45
bucks, the max you can order without paying extra. We are sooo over food. I
order consommé (ho hum) and the salmon (ok choice). I’m leaving food on my
plate; what’s wrong with me? 17 days of constant eating?? Bob’s Turkey, when
pressed is 6.5 out of 10. He feels his choices are limited. . . . More expansively speaking: This trip through the Canal and beyond was a good choice indeed.
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