Feb 28- March 31, 2015 Aboard the Golden Princess
We'll fly to BA on Friday the 27th for a verry long flight. Here's our itinerary. We're stoked.
Sat, 02/28/15Buenos Aires, Argentina
FRIDAY FEB 27, 2015.
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| PROPERTY STUFF FOR DON TO HANDLE |
En route with Don.
"Where'd they get him?" Bob asks concerning the
remarkably genial ticket agent at the Delta counter. We're just not accustomed
to all that bonhomie and from a human being not a stubborn kiosk. Just another
smile on what has so far been a charmed morning (watch the hubris, fellow).
Feeling alive to possibilities, the future short term--this upcoming cruise
from Buenas Aires to LA for example--and the long term. More about that later.
Ok. Now. Today marks the end of a freighted week. Closing
on a refinance of our 1st Ave rental complex and having discovered a coveted
(that is, we covet) 2300' ocean view condo virtually across the street just up
for sale, we view it on Monday and are in escrow on Tuesday equipped with sale,
insurance, loan and escrow agents all demanding intimate knowledge of our
complicated financial lives.
We reveal this new turn of events to Don as he drops us
off at the airport. After all He may have to be a transmitting go between as we
traverse the seas and wend our way to we hope a happy conclusion--a new home in
our favorite neighborhood, Bankers Hill.
Sitting or rather rocking in one of San Diego's
Delta Sky
Lounges rocking chairs overlooking the new airport lobby with its giant palm
trees and views out to planes resting, taxying, aloft and to the hills of
downtown San Diego in the distance. Nice breakfast spread--I'll have some
oatmeal and fruit, Bob a mini-muffin. Weight 151.25 now but anticipating
emerging from this peregrination looking like the Michelin man. I'll have a
muffin to that. And how about a Bloody Mary for good measure. Interesting that
the bargirl says I cannot accept a tip when it is proffered "but I can
accept a good review". I’m hardly surprised at this tribute to the
consciousness of Internet travel conversations directed at hospitality
purveyors. "So far I'm enjoying the cruise", I tell Bob. Even able to
charge my other companion, my trusty iPhone, here
So at the gate there's a group of animated Mexican men.
People keep coming over wanting to take photos with one of them, an
unprepossesing short guy in sleek black hair and enormous gold cross hanging
from a necklace around his neck. Looks like a drug kingpin. Later one of their
group shows another a video of a band playing. Is that them? Who is the
celebrity among them? Why are they going to Atlanta? Maybe like us they are
heading to parts unknown. Unlike us headed for a gig where they speak Spanish
In a stadium where they cheer in Spanish to the plangent rhythmic sounds of
songs South of the border.
Taking forever to board the plane. Must be all the
overhead mishigas. And the seats seem tighter. Hm. 5 points for Delta Lounge.
Minus 1 for Delta plane.
But good things keep happening. (Makes me nervous, being
a Jew and all.) First are the wonderful headphones we bought through the
recommendation of friend Brian, the most sophisticated traveler we know.
Deadens ambient sound as he said. And the surround sound is incredible
Especially with the cartoon (would Ya
believe?) movie
HERO which is actually engrossing at least until the
inevitable blow em ups. Set in future, boy genius winds up with balloon man
robot. Adventure ensues along with peanuts and red wine. (Not in movie but on
my tray table--white and pretzels on Bob's) Peanuts R. “Who needs business
class”. Young hero with his scientific prowess avenges through many trials the
death of his brother at the hands of a nefarious entrepreneur who stealing
Hero's invention permits him to do whatever he wishes. All kinds of rooting
interest and wish fulfillment. Hero creates superheroes out of his peer group.
Considering audience for these films, adolescents, it's a great way to get them
interested in science. Understory: Robot is first a health care companion later
programmed to do superpower war stunts which finally helps him to help people.
Appeals to both progressive and right wing impulses. Get to see 40 minutes of . . .
GOTHAM a batman movie which is frustratingly enticing. A
prequel. Young Bruce Wayne's parents murdered. Young police sergeant (later
commissioner) Gordon (the hero) to the rescue. Maybe Netflix will provide a
middle and an end in the distant future.
Goodie I got us a 2 seater. Me, who gets up often, on
aisle, Bob the scenic window. I notice that biz class seats look skimpy and the
human mailing tube that we inhabit is really tight. Miss the planes of
yesteryear when there was Civility. Flight is 9 hours and 43 minutes. At least
there's a choice of entertainment on the preferable to overhead seat screens.
Still those last 43 minutes will be agony.
WHIPLASH is my first movie selection. Can see why AJ
Simmons as the sadistic music teacher of an aspiring young drummer got an Oscar
but his role is a lead not supporting.
The steward serving our second chards ("your finest
white”, I request. “Our finest box,” he replies) looks and speaks Argentinian
but speaks perfect English as well. I tell Bob that we should be humiliated
that we are not bilingual. We both acknowledge that and "That's done.
Let's get on with it." It being the pasta which is very good flavored with
tomatijo sauce. "A Latin American lasagne" says Bob noting the
ricotta cheese underneath. If you have a certain amount of dexterity you can
always enjoy the meals in pauper class.
Tom the flight attendant. Conversation saves me since I
get to stand for 45 minutes before he gets to prep meals. He hooked up with in
the early 80's a fellow chorus man of ours, Stephen Henderson. He and hubby now
in Atlanta. Used to run a B and B in Idelwild. Adopted kids 20 years ago,
Exchange cards.
JERSEY BOYS Again this time see 3/4 of it before we get
ready to land. (Free at last.) Basically it’s dispiriting. Story rather than
music is emphasized. Creditable Eastwood biopic. Those prole Italians from
Jersey are pretty shady but lovable.
Overnight
SATURDAY FEB 28.
I say "All these old people and I'm the one in agony
with my legs needing to stretch and get up repeatedly. I've got a condition of
some sort.” Bob, "it's called drama queen."
Winding our way through customs with our 4 suitcases and
shoulder bags. Not a favorite activity.
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| B.A.'S A BIG CITY |
What a rigmarole. Don't know how many times our passports
and reciprocity cards (visas) are examined. How many photos, how many
fingerprints. If anyone manages to sneak into this country or onboard the
Golden with bad intent call 'em the new Houdini.
Michael is our room steward and he brings us our glasses of champagne. A toast to having a wonderful time. I quaff while Bob unpacks. Interrupted by our attempts to nap, me in the sun on our deck overlooking the river-charming but brownish like the Mekong Delta--and Bob indoors.
We get deliveries of gifts--$200 more (to our already $1100)
of on board credit and canapés from our travel agent, and gift certificates for
two bottles of red wine (it's supposed to be our 50th anniversary --not quite
that long) because it's Princess' 50th. Keep it coming!
Naps. Thank god. And a shower does wonders to refresh
after all those hours encapsulated.
We love cruising! As I said to a skeptical Rocco (our PT)
what's wrong with one-time packing/unpacking, stopping at glorious places, and
being attended to by people whose only desire is to give you pleasure. This
time Bob says “They get paid.” We both agree we don't care as long as they keep
doing it.
It's the first meeting of the LGBT (without the L and B
and T thanks) group. Congenial couples already seated when we arrive fashionably 20
minutes late greet us cordially. I speak with Wally next to me--we're always a
circle on Princess--Celebrity's Friends of Dorothy mixer dailies are more ad
hoc. Former psychiatric therapist, and his husband John, who was a banker, now
a flight attendant (huh?) with a masters degree in theatre. Bob chats with
another therapist. Most are going on the 13 day portion of this cruise to LA.
Some took a precursor land portion offered by Princess to visit Brazil and
Iguazu falls.
It's 8 0'clock curtain! We've been waiting with our martinis
for a half hour. Love that the Golden provides little tables. A gaucho troupe.
The dancers are a three generation family down to a two year old. Charming. The
women twirling their dresses, the men in their bloomer-like pants. One fat son
dances (very well) the intricate tango with his sister. 
A nice thing is that lately I've been conscious of
drinking my eight glasses of water per day-- good for digestion and losing
weight--and the servants here keep refilling our glasses. Something to note,
the dining room is very sparce at this hour. We refuse dessert despite
with--thankfully--discreet entreaties from the hovering wait staff.
Everybody needs a chocolate on their pillow before
falling into a coma.
03/01/15Buenos Aires, Argentina – 7:00pm
SUNDAY Buenos Aires, Argentina- March 01, 2015
Founded in the early 16th century, Buenos Aires was transformed from a colonial port into a cosmopolitan metropolis - the "Paris of the South" - by the cattle boom of the 1880s. As in the American West, boom was followed by bust. But that did not stop Buenos Aires from becoming the city it is today. With its air of haunted grandeur, Buenos Aires is a place of icy intellect and smoldering passion. It is a city where the elegant Colon Theater, one of the world's great opera houses, stands in counterpoint to the working class barrios that gave birth to the tango. Perhaps the city's enigmas and contradictions are best embodied by its two most famous citizens - the reclusive librarian and literary genius Jorge Luis Borges and the showgirl turned First Lady, Evita Peron.
The "Paris of the South" flaunts its European heritage. One of the pleasures of Buenos Aires is simply absorbing its charm and flavor, from Parisian-style confiterias - cafés - to the city's popular tango clubs.
La Boca & Recoleta Cemetery
BUE200A | Buenos Aires, Argentina
Here we are with another regimented group of oldsters dressed casually for the Argentine sun and carefully assembled in the Princess theatre watching a travelogue, rich music, stentorian narrative astounding images. Clever because also these visual snippets turn out to be commercials for the DVDs sold onboard. I guess they've got an ambivalent attitude toward us passenger photographers. Though I hope they can tell me how to operate the selfie (boom) stick we purchased after two other sticks bought on the internet failed to synch. This one just holds my iPhone camera at a distance after I program the camera to auto shoot. But my practice efforts this am failed to let me tilt the camera so that the distance afforded works. Aha busses have arrived! For the Plaza de Macho and Recchia cemetery.
Comfortable
bus seats. Thinking with Bob about my accommodation to gay life as a youth when
he references a funny car ad featuring an old lady who distorts stories about
her youth "But ma you're from Queens." I say but I was not with
Queens. Thinking of last night's first encounter with the gay group aboard that
when I first met queens, gay men that is, camping, it seemed so alien then, scary
even, but now after these years I camped back with Tom to the group's
amusement.
Our guide is Sylvia. The
river we're on is the widest in the world. BA is the queen of the la plata
River. Capital since 1880. BA derives from patron saint of sailors. PPP 3M.
Outskirts 11 million. Country 40M.  |
| SYLVIA |
Port important. Between 1880-1940 A very rich country. Most important buildings built then. Copied from countries grandparents came from, eg France. Led by men w liberal ideas from Europe. Open to all religions. Immigrants from Itsly and Spain mostly 49%.
Huge bus terminal we pass. Most transportation by bus.
Most citizens Catholic.
Falkland War 1982. "Crazy War." A lot of at.
Pass 1915 train terminal built by Britosh. Underground good in BA.
Pink trees in San martini square. Pass monument to the fallen and great Art Deco building. )see photos).
1580 discovery of city. Emancipation declared 1810. Declaration in 1880.
2 parties stopped fighting in 1862. Red plus white painted pink to show unification. Main square PO come to express opinions.
Pink house where Evita appeared to show her solidarity with working people.
Brave Ladies now grandmothers appear every week to protest at pyramid.
Get off at the main square. "Ooh just like Paris!" (Not.) Only colonial style bldg that remains. Cathedral with bas relief is where Pope Francis presided as archbishop. Cardinal. Most important cathedral.
We both Love Sylvias South American sophisticated look.
Sylvia pulls back the curtain of the San Martin chapel
where people worship. Bob: "You've essentially looked at G Washington's
tomb.”
Bicentennial of
their emancipation.
We are heading to the
south of the city--the oldest part. The tango was born in this area, especially
near the port. It’s a mixture of many rhythms, danced in the streets and in the
cabaret with party girls. Considered obscene. Accepted in France in 1914. Then
contests.
Pass ministries of
agriculture and cartoon raising two most important in the country. Monument under bridge paying homage to people who disappeared, Bob says at same time grandmothers came out with handkerchiefs.
Orthodox Russian church.
La Boca the Mouth.
Located at mouth of river, now polluted. Working class people came here to work
at the port.
Yellow house. Irish
William Brown father of Argentinian navy. Won war against Brazil.
Soccer stadium gold
and blue colors of Swedish flag (first ship to come into port). Capacity of
45,000 people.
In 70's quekella
martin painted la boca and made it colorful. Famous. I take pics of the murals
that show the history of La Boca.
We have a 1/2 hour to shop and pee or vice versa.
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| Bob's the leg man |
We're having great fun at this stop. A tango dancer takes
photos with us ($20 but worth it) and we walk and view the colorful streets.
I
say that life is worth living and I'm filled with optimism and then apologize
to Bob for being such a cockeyed optimist (our shtik I guess).
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| His mother making his wares in the rear |
Onassis grew up
here. Port became impractical.
Can take hydraphoil
or ferry across the river to the beaches and to Colonia.
BA is city of contrasts.
To the expensive area. $5000-10,000 per square meter.
Restored warehouses best restaurants. There are 2 cows per person, the reason there
are so many steak restaurants.
Skyscrapers. Cesar
Pelli. Highest building. Architect. Womens bridge.Can take ferry to Uraguay.
Contrast north wealthy and south working class.
Monument to San Martin.
Recoleta neighborhood.
Botero's Man Chest.
Monument called genetic flower.
(Tango danced at
first only among men and in hidden places.) Palermo neighborhood. Exclusive.
Mansard roofs. After French. (That’s why BA is called the Paris of the South.) An
expression years ago was "as rich as an Argentinian." (You don’t
hear that nowadays.)
In the park there’s a monument
representing agriculture.
Palermo
forest--many trees. Monument to 1st constitutional president.
R. We're still looking for Paris. B. It's more Miami
Beach.
Monument to Evita
behind which is the national library.
Cemetery 1822.
Started as simple cemetery. Then for elite. 
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| WHERE EVA LIES |
I take photo of a balcony with trees as example for our
balcony in our new condo.
Monument with cross
and menorah.
Leloir vault cost 1m.
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| THE THINGS YOU SEE ON THE STREET. |
2: and we're back and upstairs in the open enjoying
pepperoni and Mexican pizza slices. Bob comes back with beers excited that the
server says “You could be my relative”. “Her name is Grinchukova; she's
originally from Kiev." I take that as good luck. Bob told her she could be
his granddaughter. Speaking of which Bob sees a "'team' of teenage
daughter, her mother, and grandmother". B remembers a "funny"
story told at the group last night about the fight in the laundry room between
two women and their husbands who began a fistfight over taking out the other's
laundry onboard. They were all arrested. Surely not on the Love Boat.
I think of the captain on that show which was filmed on a
Princess ship and how you never see him in the control room studying coordinates,
just messing avuncularly in people's lives.
We take a walk up to and along the 15th deck taking in
the panorama of BA's skyline looking down at the pool only to discover that the
resistance pool which I had been counting on to help keep me fit is not
operational--same story when we were on the Golden in December and when we were
promised it would be fixed. I'm mighty pissed. This is the ship we are on for
31 days and on which we're booked for a 28 day cruise from Sydney to South
Pacific to LA. Also the spa girls are not optimistic that the ship is offering
Zumba, but careful to assure us that it's not in their bailiwick.
Who shall I complain to?
Two down. The pool. Potentially the zumba. 1 up though is
that I figure out how to get my boom selfie stick tilting, hence working. 3rd
down: Unable to access my home computer through logmein. And worse, unable to
open secure email documents from our lender (or for that matter our agent) on
our potential condo to sign them.
I'm standing on line now at the passenger services desk
to find out if I can receive-scan faxes aboard and vent although it's almost
time for the lifeboat drill. Answer from a supervisor, no receiving faxes. Send
faxes @ $4.95 a minute. Advice: talk with the Internet guy. That's no advice at
all.
We are standing for the drill. Last time we were sat on
the stage and B couldn't get his lifejacket on. Awkward. This time there’s no
performance anxiety and . . . No performance.
Martini hour is spent en suite and after 7 we Sail Away
from BA (rhymes). On our balcony watching the proceedings and the receding City
skyline. Bob notes that there are no birds, no life and I remind him our guide,
the fabled Sylvia, said that the river water is very polluted.
John, the exuberant one, joins us; he seems dispirited.
We discover he's had a terrible day, mugged as he was walking alone along the
wharf. A man with two women performed the horrifying deed, the man
sticking a knife in his ribs, one woman
distracting him, another picking his pocket. He screamed. Complained to
unconcerned taxi drivers, police and to Princess warning that other tourists
are in danger. No response. Wally comes by. Does he feel guilty for not having
accompanied John? They're both pretty glum. We recount our misadventures with
the Internet in the face of our business transaction and soon we're talking about
their and our real estate ventures. They've dined so we take our leave for
dinner.
R. Mayo carpaccio with Pacific Northwestern Style crab
cake, grilled salmon with herb and lemon compound butter veggies and parsley
potato. Good. Flaky. Lemon enhances it. Potato and carrots very nice. R and B.
Tom Kai Gah Thai Chicken Soup with Lemingrass, chili, lime and enoki,
"quite good." pan fried turkey scaloppini with Gorgonzala cream.
Tasty, a little salty. Good. The pumpkin is fun. Bob notices that the twinkly lights in the
ceiling are not lit. Resistance machines. Zumba? What next?
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| LAST ROMANTIC GLIMPSE OF BA |
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| BYE BYE B.A. |
Our server Gary is a charmer. We converse. He's worked 20 years for cruise lines. 7 years Celebrity, 8 years now with Princess. Was offered a butler position on Oceana. Princess' agency said no. He wants to retire, open a restaurant in his Philippines village, misses his family, his wife and 7 year old daughter. We ask if Skype helps. He uses it every day. Years past they had to stand in line for the telephone.
Gary (from the Phillipines) remembers us when he was a
server at Sabatini's. We had breakfast there as perk when we had a penthouse
suite. Bob says he loved the suite. I say I am satisfied with the mini suite.
Clearly he has higher aspirations.
Bob: "The ship's culture is amazing. There's a
secret city."
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| HOCUS POCUS |
Montevideo, Uruguay 9:am – 6:00pm
Montevideo, Uruguay- Monday, March 02, 2015
Nestled between the continent's two giants, Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America. More than half of the nation's population of three million reside in the capital of Montevideo, located at Uruguay's southernmost point on the Rio de la Plata. Although small in size, Uruguay has proven to be big-hearted - the country is one of the most literate nations in the world while Montevideo is one of South America's most interesting and cosmopolitan capitals.
Montevideo is a charming city made up of 19th-century Beaux Arts buildings, parks, and historical monuments.
Nestled between the continent's two giants, Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America. More than half of the nation's population of three million reside in the capital of Montevideo, located at Uruguay's southernmost point on the Rio de la Plata. Although small in size, Uruguay has proven to be big-hearted - the country is one of the most literate nations in the world while Montevideo is one of South America's most interesting and cosmopolitan capitals.
Montevideo is a charming city made up of 19th-century Beaux Arts buildings, parks, and historical monuments.
Estancia La Rabida & City Drive
MVD100A | Montevideo, Uruguay
Here I am thinking I'm starting out on the wrong foot. Up at
6:30. Gotta get to stretch class. Grab Earphones. What? All the ellipticals are
in use. And most of the treadmills. Rather more ambitious group of passengers
than in previous cruises? And no one in
stretch class? Besides that my earphone's battery is dead. I take a half hour of treadmill only to find
Bob stewing in the cabin. Do you know what time it is? Turns out I've neglected
to set my watch an hour ahead. Fast shower. Fumbled dressing. No assiduously
attended repast in the dining room but a rush to the fat people buffet upstairs
for fairly abstemious breakfasting.
ESTANCIA LA RABIDA & CITY DRIVE.
Ricardo guide. (Very fact filled, knowledgeable. Very
affectless delivery). Jorge driver. First
is the city drive. La Ravida is 35 miles from Montevideo.
Uruguay
compared to their political neighbors is small, Population 3,340,000.
Montevideo 1,250,000. Speak Spanish. 25 pesos to one American dollar. Life
expectancy is 78 years old. Education at least elementary school. Mostly
European ancestry. 8% (actually 15%) unemployed. Young pop 25%. $750 a month
salary. Pension $350. Climate subtropical. Don't get snow. No rainy season.
Farm land. Export beef, rice, leather, wool. 240 cruise ships last yr. no oil
in Uruguay, Import it from Russia and Venezuela. $7.50 a gallon for gas. 1/2
for taxes. Sales tax 22%. Inflation 15% yr.
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| STRANGELY REMINDS ME OF 1ST HIGH SCHOOL IN JERSEY CITY |
Montevideo
was an important finance center until 2002. Economy collapsed. 100%
devaluation. Collapse of banks. Taxes keeping foreign money away now. National
Theatre. Seats 1200.
Plaza
Independence. Yesterday new president.
Stage set for ceremonies. Pres. offices in modern green building. Next door to
his old residence.
75% pop
used public bus service. Expensive. Use motorbikes. Many traffic accidents. 1
1/2 million motorbikes imported from China. Cost $6-700. Pay off in 1 yr.Statue: man on horse is Manuel Ortega revolutionary freed the country from Spain and the Argentines. 1816 invaded by Portuguese. Jose Ortillas.
55% own the house where they live. If mortgage with state its 15%. Borrow money from bank 25-50% yr. but get only 3% interest.
Main Ave. 18 July. People prefer shopping in shopping centers.
So far
our estimate of the city: Not very pretty.
Criminality?
Compared to other countries in South America, not too bad. But it is becoming
worse every year. Serious problems with drugs, especially crack.
Political
system “democrazy”. New president every 5 years. This one got Coalition votes.
In past 160 years they had conservative presidents. But since 2004
not--coalition. Mandatory voting. Not vote? Must pay. Therefore 90% vote.
Bob: “Looks like a
European city. 19th c.”
Each of
the 19 provinces gets deputies.
State has
a deficit of 1.2 billion dollars every year which it finances with bonds, sales
and income taxes.500,000 cars. $25,000 each. Chinese cars cost 1/2 that.
17% of a worker’s salary goes for medical care.
State hospitals are free. Doctors are public and private.
Parliament building. Built 1908. Same architect designed congress building in Buenos Aires. Inside marble stone from Uruguayan quarries. Parliament legalized marihuana. Can buy 42 grams from pharmacy. Not clear what new president will do. Also abortion legalized. The new president is catholic, will apply his veto. Last president is head of parliament. (Liberal--will there be a clash, effectively two préxies?) Average salary for politicians $15,000 a month. Uruguay was once known as the Switzerland of SA.
Education system public and private. Private school $800 mo. Univ $2000 month. Need 6 years of high school to go to the university.
These people (where we are now) inhabit a shanty town.
They are very poor. Recycle garbage. $8-10 a day. Their children must go to school. Get $50-60 per child. Have between 6-10 children. Good business. Consequently they make more money than the average working class. This is a problem.
I wonder how the large families of my forbears helped with the family income. On my father’s side, they were all studying the Talmud, not getting paid and not farming. But they came to America and became the merchant class.
Working class area. $200 month rent.
No military service. It is professional.
1 question: Relations with neighbors? Brazil ok. But
Argentines 5 years ago protested that Uruguay factories were polluting their
rivers. Blocked Uruguay and sued Uruguay in Netherlands.
Sell
their eucalyptus trees to China for paper. I tell
Bob we should sell our eucalyptus trees.Barbecue with wood from indigenous trees. Don't use charcoal like Brazil. The people like all parts of the animal. Prefer the tanins in red wine. Natives use 65 kilo beef. 20 k fish a year. They barbecue on Sunday's and it’s a social event. That’s when they eat, drink and talk too much. Then they take a siesta. Matte is the other big drink. Warm water. Bitter taste Yerba imported from Brazil. In Paraguay they drink it cold. Without sugar you are a gaucho. I tell Bob I'm a gaucho (I drink unsweetened matte) he says you're a “Groucho”.
La rabida is not a river but a delta. It’s the 3rd largest behind the Mississippi and the Amazon. Ranches here are 3-4000 acres. In the north 200-300,000 acres. Speculators bought land and raised prices.
Wildlife.
Foxes, wild rabbits and parrots who make nests in the eucalyptus trees. These small
birds are pests to the farmers because they eat crops. Snakes in the rice plantations. Alligators in
hilly east side. Birds in south.Uruguayans eat more rice than potatoes; cheaper.
La Rabida Estancia. Irrigation expensive because power expensive. We pass Sorghum crops. Used instead of corn which is expensive. Gauchos on horseback greet us. Neat.
Montevideo
is much smaller than BA. Have beautiful beaches, all public. We
see 4 of the 6 generations.
It’s a gorgeous day as we ascend to the hayride. One other
couple has a boom selfie stick. This is the first time we've used it and it
works!
After a good half hour hay ride (clipity clop bumpity bump)
we arrive at the ocean, lovely cliffs at the beach for the view, a cookie and
some lemonade. Then the rather long hay ride back to the estancia proper.
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| WARY HAY RIDER |
Another glass of wine. Much preparation of the viands by the
gauchos and the hardworking granddaughter. Appetizer is a delicious peppers and
sausage on a piece of bread. Beef, "piglet", chicken after a salad.
Their indigenous red wine flows. Then the gaucho show. Excellent. After that
it's time to milk the cow. This city boy doesn't get much milk out of the Uruguayan
Elsie but I get to taste her milk--warm and very good. Then after a
visit--watch out for the scattered horse um piles--to their ostriches and a
horse and her one month colt--I take a ride on a leather carpet drawn by a
galloping horse--exhilarating and my dignity only slightly intact.
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| SELFIES RUN AMUCK |
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| Terrific dance performance. |
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| We dancers pose for the selfie. |
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| City boy milks cow. |
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| Actually tastes great. Who knew? |
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| BEAUTY |
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| Preparing for magic carpet ride. Yahoo! |
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| Recovering gracefully from magic carpet ride. |
Back on the bus at 3:45 for a 45 minute ride back. Siesta
recommended.
The
building like it's in Dubai on the skyline is the telecommunications building
designed by Carlos Ott, a Uruguayan.
Old train
station closed. Uruguay no longer uses trains for passengers.
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| We don't know them but they pose prettily. |
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| I guess we had hot dogs. |
TUESDAY, MARCH 3.
So there are no stretch and core classes at 7 this
morning (they've been switched to 5pm--cocktail time. Doing a sit-up while
holding a martini is that much more effective). instead I head up to the large
pool area and I have my choice of the indoor and the outdoor since no one is
swimming and choose the indoor because there's less sloshing and its campier to
swim surrounded by faux Greek columns with an Art Deco flair (I'll take a
picture later.) it's great swimming and I figure 50 lengths will do since these
are not the Jr. Olympic size I'm accustomed to. There’s only the bartender
setting up and me.
Next up is the lecture on the next few ports in the theatre
where we meet our next door neighbors Wally and John and are later joined by
the two guys couple from Pasadena (Names to follow) who will be going on the
Antarctic day cruise this week. Got to remember to quiz them when they return.
(I looked at it for two minutes. It's madly expensive.)
Rest and then rush to Spanish class where we learn the
basics of interaction, “Buenos Dias, de nada” that sort of thing. John and
Wally are there. John has some facility with the language. Knows how to bargain
In Spanish. Years ago they adopted a Columbian boy who called John his Spanish
padre and Wally his English padre.
Lunch. B. Greek salad of feta cheese and kalamata olives,
cucumber and tomatoes on cod lettuce, R. Chicken tortilla soup flavors with
tomato and cilantro. Excellent. Main dish is Nasi Goreng. That's beef skewers
sunny side up egg over rice and peanut sauce. Not thrilling.
The tango lesson I find just too crowded, though the
tango team is charming, and standing there by myself surrounded by couples does
not suit so I repair after 20 minutes to our cabin to take in the balcony (it's
getting cooler so a plush robe our steward Michael supplied is in order) and
try writing our attorney friend Gary about an escrow question. Run down to
floor 7 where the connection is better, send a formerly unsendable email
alerting Don to write a check to escrow (he's got our checkbook and signature
stamp—there’s trust for you), and meet Bob at Bernini's for the Maitre d'Hotel
Wine Club tasting.
France. Champagne
Nicholas Feuilatte (very nice) $60. Most
champagnes are white. But red grapes don't crush the skin. 2 year process. Dom
Perignon monk started it in France. Added sugar and yeast into his wine. Widow
Cliquot. 12 million bottles today. 1800. Process of riddling got rid of
clouding. Turned bottles over weeks upside down and twisted. Smaller the
bubbles better the champagne. Can cellar 15 years in a cool dark place on its
side.
Sauvignon-Blanc
Sancerre Moliet Maudrey. All sancerres are Sauvignon Blancs. Brilliant color.
Nose. Fruity. We have over 6000 nuances of smell.
South American
wines are good because not affected by floxera virus. He says one glass a day
keeps the doctor away. I say we'll keep the surgeon away with the way we
drink.
Uruguay: Chardonnay Traversa Vinos Finos
Spain: Tempranillo
La Montessa we like. Nice with lamb or steak.USA. Meritage Mount Veeder. Must consist of 5 grapes. Very High alcohol content.
Smell is more important than taste.
Meritage Overture (aged 18 months barrel 18 months) step sister of Opis.
8000 BC first wine making. In Iraq (10000 years ago) found ceramics with residue.
 |
| OUR NEW DISTINGUISHED BUDS |
Nap time and getting ready for formal night only to
discover I didn't pack my formal shoes. Since I'm not using my new black Capezzio
dance shoes for Zumba, I might as well employ them in the service of funky
formality. We catch Wally and John meeting us just before we get to the
Wheelhouse at 6:30 as we arranged chatting up a blowzy Australian lady desirous
of dancing partners. I have great respect for people who travel alone and who have
no trouble reaching out. After ordering drinks the Pasadena couple joins us
festooned in tuxes. Then the radiologist and his nurse practitioner partner
Matt I think dressed informally come by and it's fun until we and Wally and
John repair to dinner. The wine flows as we all try the excellent 50th
anniversary dinner specials, each course representing a decade. Extra amusement
is supplied by our over eager assistant server Djeprdhe and pretty Ludmilla (you
gotta love the accent). We actually enjoy hours of conversation and meal so
that the 8:15 showtime becomes the 10:15 showtime. 
Bob is certain we've seen Stardust Memories three times
but for me a production show is always fun, passing by in leaps and periouettes
and tuneful solos, here a self-professed "sentimental journey"
tailored to the musical reminiscing of its senior audience. Bob doesn't find
any of the male dancers and singers especially woop woop worthy but you can't
have it all. And looking back on this busy indulgent day, you can have almost
all.
Tue, 03/03/15At Sea
Wed, 03/04/15Puerto Madryn, Argentina 8:am – 6:00pm
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$478.00
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Puerto Madryn, Argentina- March 04, 2015
Fleeing the economic devastation of England's Industrial Revolution, Welsh settlers immigrated to Argentina in search of cheap land. Led by Viscount Madryn, one group of settlers sailed for Patagonia, founding the small city of Puerto Madryn in 1865. Life in Patagonia, however, was not easy. There were lonely prairies, brutally cold winters, and unrelenting winds. Still the Welsh survived, and today visitors can still see their legacy in Puerto Madryn and its surrounding communities.
Puerto Madryn is your gateway to one of South America's largest breeding grounds for birds and mammals - Tombo National Reserve.
Note: Temperatures fluctuate widely in Patagonia. Dress in warm layers, wear sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots and bring a waterproof jacket, hat and bottled water.
Roads outside Puerto Madryn are bumpy and dusty. Transportation are equipped for these conditions but do not offer customary tour amenities.
Status: Confirmed
Depart: 01:30PM
Return: 05:30PM
Date: March 04, 2015
Estancia San Guillermo & Punta Loma
PMY205A | Puerto Madryn, Argentina
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$198.00
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15
Adult Subtotal:
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$318.00
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$58.00
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WEDNESDAY
MARCH 4.
A morning of mishaps. I shave and bleed. Up and ready for
the advertised stretch and abs class.
First I find my mat removed while I treadmill before class (John is
there) and then the instructor fails to appear altogether so it's freelance
time attempting to remember the daily routines from the gym way back in San
Diego and pretending that I'm leading a golden age class. "Be grateful I'm
old students so I don't do these things too well." Then to discover that
my deluxe earphones that I placed on the kiosk behind my mat are gone! There's
a woman using them on the treadmill. "Oh I thought they were too nice."
And worst blow of all, Bob who somehow manages to come up and do some treadmill
says we must leave and I've only begun the Grace Kelly Story with Nicolle
Kidman no less as Grace herself Bob insists we must leave to go to breakfast.
All I learn is that she's very unhappy being a Princess. Me too. (Actually I'm
happy.) 
But Bob's got big plans for our morning prior to our
afternoon tour of a sheep shearing ranch or some such. We will have breakfast
and then walk into the town of Porto Madryn.
Breakfast is easy but then there's business in the Internet
room and we're not out of there until 11am. And I'm down to 90 minutes from an
initial 600 minutes of available Internet time. Yikes. Whadayaknow. Buying a
condo costs money.
Of Porto Madryn. Weather gorgeous today. Walking main drag,
it's Miami beach manqué stuck in the 70's. And offering plenty of opportunities
to buy a $7 penguin snow globe though doubt we'll see many in this afternoon's
estancia visit. And Bob scores an $8 tea shirt proclaiming
"Patagonia". (He's a Pantagonia guy.)
Long walk, then there’s the shuttle bus back along the long
pier. Grabbing a bite in the Horizon Court. Bob. "Somehow fitting to be
eating a Cubano sandwich in this the Miami Beach of the Argentines."
Preparing for the tour and changing into long pants, I
gather some things from the floor and need Bob to help me up. You know you're
old when . . .
Interesting to see that not many people tip the guide and
driver as we wait for the morning tour to get off the bus we'll be on for our
tour. And then Bob has the satisfaction of screaming at a woman who pushes
ahead of him. The chaos began when they directed us to board the bus helter
skelter from the dock rather than file like orderly buggers from the theatre
onboard.
Very blue water as we make our way along the
pier. Diana is our guide. 
Difficult to understand. On the city she points out a
"nice house a big house" (my my) not many people around since school
began in March. School year ends in February. Apartments for rent from people
coming from the South. (Looks a little like
Coronado.) Not much rain. Dry like a
"dessert". Like a crumble cake I tell Bob.
Difficult to understand. On the city she points out a
"nice house a big house" (my my) not many people around since school
began in March. School year ends in February. Apartments for rent from people
coming from the South. (Looks a little like
Coronado.) Not much rain. Dry like a
"dessert". Like a crumble cake I tell Bob.
We're off
to see the sea lions. 1500 of them. We
will see young individuals. Females are hairless and bigger than the male who
will have harems of 10-12 females. Gestation 10 months. One baby. The mother
smells her baby. The mother sounds like a cow, the baby like a lamb.
(Diana reproduces these sounds at this point.) Not many males. Just stay during January. Females pregnant again after
3 or 4 days. Mother leaves to swim for a week to 10 days. Back looks for her
baby. Moos. The baby comes to her. She smells it. The baby, hungry, feeds.
We're at the Punta Loma reserve.
Cormorants on the cliffs we're told. The sea lions don't
seem to be doing much. Kind of lie there. Occasionally a mother approaches than
leaves the baby to swim. Occasionally one will moo. Bob says they don't do much
except Walt Disney movies. I say "it's very pretty in its eroded
way." Bob laughs. "It's one of the great natural cliffs. What would
you say about Niagara Falls?"
Me. “It's interesting. The cycle of life. And to what
purpose?” B. “To give Disney an opportunity to make movies.”
On the bus Diane asks can you recognize the difference
between the mothers and their babies? I say to Bob you'd have to be deaf dumb
and blind not to. Unkind.
Patagonia (Argentine and Chilean) has five provinces.
Ushuaia is the capital of Tierra del Fuego to the south. La pampa province has cows
producing meat. Rio Negro agriculture provides very good apples. Fiere province
and Mendoza produce good wine. Also La Rioja for wine. Bob asks what Patagonia
means. She says big foot. Ok.
The ranch
we're visiting is small, 4000 hectares.
Shearers
go from one ranch to another. Bring their equipment with them. 2 people prepare
sheep to be shorn. Bins with different parts of the sheep's body. Australian
and Argentine Merino is the best wool. One lamb can give 20 kilos of wool.
Sheep has 7 years useful life. Of course I with 7 others volunteer to carry a
sheep.
Produces
more manure than a cow. Sees in black and white. One male services 40 females.
Shear
once a year. Record 1 minute 22 seconds here. 9 seconds in championships.
I volunteer to carry a sheep with a few others to get
sheared. Sheep act like sheep. Pretty passive. In a few minutes they are quite
naked.
As we board our bus after a snack of a little cheese and ham
croissant, a dry cookie, and a pastry shaped sort of like a Hamentashen filled
with apricot preserves which reminds bob of his grandmother's kiffel. I say I'm
disappointed with the sea lion part where they were lying around.
"What did you expect,” asks Bob. "Flap their flippers and balance a
ball" is the answer
We're heading toward the sea and Bob regarding the stretch
of pampas says "Virgin San Diego must have looked like this."
We note that they don't have to pave the roads here because
there is no rain. It doesn't and they
don't.
Bob goes up to the buffet in search olives for the martinis
I have poured, my hope to catch a cocktail hour swim rather easily crushed by
their allure.
And we catch yet another bit of the Grace Kelly Story on
TV. Looks like we'll at last piece it
all together. Who knew she single handedly saved Monaco against an invasion by
De Gaulle's France. Like who knew?
Bob and I disagree over whether Nicolle Kidman is Jewish.
Reuel wanting to claim her for his sect. (She isn't, he can't.)
As we set sail over the crawl of the Grace Kelly Story, I
massage Bob's back with my sheep massaging "lanolin hands". He's
pleased. (So was the sheep. He baaaad in pleasure. Not saying Bob does.)
My god 2 Martinis en suite each (Michael was instructed to
deliver ice tout suite) and we manage to find advanced row seating after seeing
the Tango couple run through some of their expert paces in the piazza.
The events bag's show in the Princess Theatre is yet another
of those lounge singers. This time it’s a French Canadian with quite a good
voice, a Macho confident presentation that works for me but Bob thinks needs a
good manager's trimming. Frank Wildhorn's "This is the moment"
inevitably ends the program.
We suppose it is (the moment) and go to Horizon to dine with
upper level staff. Actually with a glass each of red it's all excellent, my
Cajun crawfish pot pie (which is this evening's dining room menu specialitie)
is fine too.
I'm tired so while Bob goes to the Internet cafe to get Don
to transmit items we've prepared I get ready to zzz.
Thu, 03/05/15At Sea
THURS
MARCH 5 AT SEA
There's so much to do that I wonder when to find time to
write my complaint about the lack of Zumba classes and a resistance pool,
Thinking (erroneously--it's not in the daily Patter) that
there's no stretch and abs class at 7, I decide to swim when I have the lovely
large indoor pool, the one with the glass ceiling and the ornate deco columns
and curves out of 40's Astaire and Rogers movies, usually to myself alone to do,
as now, 60 lengths and as I finish find the attendant lifting at 7:30 the
netting from the jacuzzis so I can soak in jetted splendor for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile Bob has taken to the treadmill in the gym where he
discovers that the morning classes were indeed in session.
Looks like everyone has the same idea so there's a line for
breakfast. Worth the wait because the wonderful Lumberjack breakfast is on the
menu (grilled minute steak, two ranch style fried eggs, sautéed mushrooms and
crispy hash browns, which I choose to have, Bob opting for the ham and cheese
omelette though the wait for service is distressing to Bob despite his having
had 2 cups of coffee in the cabin--thank goodness for that, his wrath ain't
pretty. And it's exercised upon Paulo the captain "that's no excuse".
Once having eaten and spirits revived Bob says "We can accuse them of
homophobia, ignoring us in an obscure corner of the room." “But we
demimonde crave obscure corners," I reply. And now they are dancing
attention on us.
Culinary presentation with chef and assistant maitre d. Coming
in on the preparation of an appetizer. Next spaghetti ala scoliosis sautéed
seafood shrimps scallops mussels clams placed in a hot pan. Langoustines is a
baby lobster added. Add white wine. Reduce. Add marinara sauce. Smells
wonderful. Pasta in the pot.
Shrimp in pan, garlic mayonnaise added. Etc. Fernando the
translator is a hunk. Adds to visual delight of food and man.
TRAVEL LECTURE. USHUAIA.
In Cape Horn area weather changes a lot. Argentina is the 2nd largest country
in SA. 8th in the world. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world. 80,000
people. "Fin del Mundo" end of the World. Fighting Indians. Yamada.
Didn't wear many clothes in cold weather. Covered in oils. And many fires. So
called it Del Fuego, Land of Fires. Beagle gave it that name. Darwin came 2nd
time in the Beagle at the beginning of the 19th c. Settlers. Thomas Breach.
Argentines came and established a prison. The prisoners built some of the
houses. Some came looking for gold. Didn't find any. By 20th c prosperous. Ushuaia
is the capital of Del Fuego.
See Ushuaia
as we approach; it will afford great postcard views. Beagle channel. On port
side islands belonging to Chile. Opposite del Fuego. Historic district
government buildings built by prisoners. San Martin is the main Street.
Maritime museum is interesting. Stanley and Ushuaia important ports for
Antartica.
Anecdotal
about golf player par 83 was par 7 because holes filled with ice.End of the world train. 420p. 55 minutes each way. 120 p taxi to train.
Glacier. Taxi 90p. Restaurant bar La Cabana. Walk an hour to glacier.
National park. Taxi 320p. Lake Fanano there. Part belongs to Chile.
Hour before Ushuaia pass lighthouse port side.
Islands with sea lions.
At center get certificate showing have been to end of world. Can get taxis at kiosk.
Now it's time for part 2 of my Spanish lesson whilst Bob
retires to our cabin.
Matejas the asst. cruise manager is an excellent teacher,
witty and charming while observant of our (limited) capacities to learn. When
teaching the rolling R as in cigarros he says imagine you are on a Harley
starting your engine rrrr. Going around the room. "Your ignition isn't
working." "Sounds like you're on a Vespa." "You're not
going very far." Etc.
Lunch. Both of us have the mixed greens with walnuts and the
Hungarian goulash seasoned with roasted peppers and served with spaetzle. We
both likee. I share my delight with Bob that I can type a letter or two on my
iphone and get a choice of words so that I'm almost writing shorthand. Pretty
fab.
Time for some
respite before our 3 0'clock wine tasting allowing me to write out my complaint
about the lack of zumba and resistance pool, drop it off at the service desk
and email it to our agent. (Maybe we'll get a bottle of cheap wine from it, not
likely any redress of the issues). We meet Wally and John and we sit together
and quaff.
Mirabelle Brut Rose
Sauv Blanc Concha y toro reserve
Malbec diseno
Good from the mountains of Argentina, Mendoza. We all like
it.
Shiraz katnook from Australia.
Prosecco villa sandi Venice
Back to the cabin for R&R (well more R than R for
R&B) and to write Gary with a legal question before meeting the other “fagala”
couples for cocktails. All are in a good mood, 4 couples, talking of our
upcoming tours. An elderly man and woman pass by who were just married on the
ship, she looking radiant in a dress John claims to have in his closet. Ahem.
When the others leave we bond with a couple of pleasant guys, Paul and Donald,
who recently bought a house in Rancho Mirage. We agree to meet in Palm Springs
when we're up there.
But it's time to get a front row seat for this evening's
production show, Caribbean Caliente, one (and only one) we haven't seen before.
Bob says none of the male dancers are hot. They're fleshy.
Unlike the dancers on the last Golden. The females are all very good and
"they have personalities as well as dance skills. The audience loved it
anyway." R. “They don't know what we know." B. “We know too much”.
Actually one of the males looked frightened and was
conspicuously clunky and as Bob says they look like they're in a high school
production.
Nevertheless. Painless, tuneful, colorful and fast moving.
Fri, 03/06/15Falkland Islands (stanley) Tender Required wheelchair Access Limited8:00am – 6:00pm
FRIDAY MARCH 6.
They've got this down to a science, this tour thing. But
as we sit here, a tour brigade in waiting, we're under the mercy of mother
nature's sometimes untender ministrations. And it's all about the tender or not
the tender since tender service has been temporarily suspended in subservience
to the winds. Will we sail? Will we see the allegedly charming city of Stanley
today?
Awakened by the charming electronic voice of the wake up
call lady, I take a half hour of treadmill (the elliptical machine surrenders
in deference to knees these days) and pass up a swim in the cool cool air.
Shortly thereafter our charming Indian breakfast boy delivers a cruiser’s
version of McMuffins forcing Bob to have tea (though not my infused version)
since only hot water but no coffee arrives.
"We're waiting for the captain's decision on whether
the tender operation can start. Thank you for understanding that safety is our
first concern."
Captain. "Wind 35 knots. We will abort."
As we file out and back, Princess plays uptempo music,
small attempt, of which many will no doubt follow, to assuage the general
disappointment. We climb to the top of the ship to take photos of a soon to
recede Stanley in favor of the next stop we must attempt, Ushuaia.
 |
| AS MUCH AS WE'LL SEE OF STANLEY. |
Fun with John and Wally as we have coffee and tea in the
Horizon lounge, later to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the receding Stanley
islands, if such they are, and the whitecaps of the roiling ocean. Cruise staff
scrambling to fill in activities now that passengers are once again captive
aboard. Spanish class back on at noon. I'd better study. And this the third
class. Mateus is at his best, witty, exuberant, destined to be cruise director
soon. I meet a nice Canadian couple. He bought some Spanish computer course,
Babel, but had trouble because he's hard of hearing.
There’s a line for lunch but captain Paulo, recipient of
past complaints, gets us a nice table. Cheerful Apollo is our waiter. R.
Bacardi and coke marinated spicy chicken wings (lovely--apparently won awards) 4
flavors oriental broth ;roasted duckling, shrimp, pork, oriental mushrooms,
tagliarini with meatballs and parsley. Accompanied by our lovely Diseno Malbec
wine we have in storage. That's the one we had on a tasting menu, determined
it's good and know they have an infinite amount. So bring us another bottle. We
toast to 2015 which should be even better than 2014. We have risen out of the
metaphorical ashes. (Overstated perhaps but the undramatic life is hardly worth
living.) B, vegetable soup, Greek spanikopita (the filo pastry is very nice,
fresh).
We feel guilty that staff has been prevented from going
ashore in order to serve us (rather than employing the services of Stanley's
one madam and her daughter--a big blow to the town's tourism industry thanks to
today's over-exuberant winds). We discuss the assassin who attempted the
assassination of our ambassador to South Korea who said "I'm sick and have
nothing to do with North Korea". The lawyers got to him no doubt.
One thing that is easier as you get older is Napping. Bob
and I prove that today and nap an hour or so--we've worked so hard after all.
And lo and behold it's 3:15 so I go up to the pools --both of which are rocking
with waves--eeny meeny-- I'll take the
indoor pool and do 70 lengths--who knows how that compares to my gym pool. Then
some jacuzzi action. After 5, a shower in the cabin and ready for the evening
which begins with in-room martinis. Thinking as 6:30 LGBT mixer time arrives
that we'll skip it, instead we rush up to the 17th floor just before elite
lounge closing at 7 to the endlessly campy sea-view Skywalker's lounge, (an
amenity not to be found on the newest Princess ships and nowhere else is this
unique incarnation) for a $5 Japanese slipper--terrific--and some sushi for me
and cheese and other things I forage for Bob. We are aware the slipper will
appear 3 other times on this voyage as there are weekly rotations of drink
specials. I ask if there's a wine bottle special--we really are in search of a
$15 bottle we remember from the Royal upper level parties--and he's utterly
incomprehensible. Bottom line no. But that's ok. Very pleasant.
After discovering that our money is still in our bank
accounts we discover the tango dance couple in the piazza even though they've
been at it from the start of the cruise. They're terrific. There's a sort of
perfume and aura of late thirties romance in their music and in their dance.
And then. Oh joy of it. We're free to enjoy a night in
our cabin. We pass by our group in the lounge and after homemade martinis
(we've erected a still in the living room) we order club sandwiches and a
bottle of Merlot from room service as we watch movies on our in-room TV.
WORDS AND PICTURES with Juliette Binoche and Clive Owen.
High minded claptrap relying on charisma of the principals as English professor
and artist loving and clashing and loving. Next. I DONT KNOW HOW SHE DOES IT.
With Sarah Jessica Parker and Pierce Brosnan. Turns on the idea that a career
woman has trouble also being a wife and mother. Would have been more of a drag
with lessor players
What a lovely day even bereft of that visit to Stanley,
Falkland Islands. Terribly crowded on the starboard side but we stand behind
tiny Asians so not so bad I say we've been to the ends of the earth Cape of
Good Hope and, Bob, “the more important one Cape Horn”. ”Why is it more important,” I ask. We both
laugh. B “Sounds more important.”
Weirdly shaped rocks jutting out in the middle of the
ocean.
At this point bi-polar depressive cousin Mark would be saying “Aw it's only a
rock.” I'm going to the buffet.
Sat, 03/07/15Cape Horn (scenic Cruising)
Scenic Cruising5:00pm – 6:00pm
SATURDAY
MARCH 7
LOST these notes. Need to recollect.
Wait. Wait. Wait. 2 hours delay. Then tender to bus to
ferry. As John says, it puts the “f” in ferry. Reliving my parents experience escaping
and shipping out from the pogroms.
We get bags of food and water. It's 9:55. Our ferry the
Melinka. Starts.
Give us your huddled masses yearning to breathe free etc.
Guide promises us penguins at Magelland Island.
The ferry is noisy so can't make out what the guide is saying. Penguins migrate March April so we're at the end of the season.
Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego), Argentina- March 08, 2015
Magellan called it Tierra del Fuego, "the Land of Fire," having seen flames rising from the darkened islands. For over three centuries, the name struck fear in the hearts of mariners. Howling headwinds, mountainous seas and rocky coastlines spelled a sudden end to many voyages. Today, Ushuaia, a former Argentine penal colony, serves as your gateway to this wilderness where snow-capped mountains plummet to the icy waters of the Beagle Channel.
In the late 19th century, Reverend Thomas Bridges spent years working with local tribes, compiling a dictionary of their Yaghan tongue. The work outlived the Yaghan: by the beginning of the 20th century, they had succumbed to disease.
Beagle Channel Wildlife Cruise
USH200A | Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego), Argentina
I am awakened from a crazy dream, younger self having sex
with a woman. What's that about? Her black parents disapprove (I watch too much
Melissa Harris Perry?) and she abandons me. I'm lost in the city (that part is
real, the usual dream). I ask Bob what it means. He refers me to Wally our
shipboard friend and psychiatric nurse. More strange is that my iPhone says its
6:30. We've got a tour in Ushaia in less than an hour. Bob awakened by me says
there was no wake up call. Sure enough, every other time piece everything else
says it's 5:30. The wake up call rings. When I slam the receiver down I say I
like that it's mechanical and doesn't take offense.
Breakfast served us en-suite. Opportunity to see glorious,
serene (since its early morning) Ushaia in the sunrise, twinkling lights of the
city nestled under snow-capped mountains, a new kind of port-side image for us.
Beautiful.
Here we are aboard the Beagle, or its forbear's forbear.
Darwinians all. Bob says "Its like the Staten Island ferry" (which we
both rode to get to our teaching jobs on that island). Except the setting is
impossibly beautiful, like a folio film backdrop.
Anna guide on our catamaran and virtually incomprehensible
over the speakers on the exterior of the boat where we choose to be.
City is on
the base of the Andes mountain range. Ushaia means bay facing the sun.
Sailing up the Beagle channel. Pass an island of
cormorants. And then we're closer to
another/-all clumped together, they look like penguins. Bob thinks they don't
seem very industrious. I say this is a once in a lifetime experience. These
creatures against this background.
Good
divers, catch fish. Mate in spring. 40 days to give birth.
Bob thinks the guide is saying something about Anglican
missionaries pushing the natives away to other territory. Could be.
And there are the sea lions big to little making honking
noises. One enormous papa sea lion his snout mostly turned to the sky. It's
good to be the king.
We see blue eyed cormorants.
Refreshments upstairs in the buffet room before taking on
the town. Bump into the guys going to Antartica tomorrow. At $3000 per we'll
pass. Then the doctor and nurse couple
later on . They took the train ride which they hated.
Try unsuccessfully to take selfies with the lighthouse built
1820 in the background. This is a town entirely devoted to tourism. See our
Phllipino crew piling their plates with the $20 all you can eats and arrays of
restaurant windows with eviscerated animals hogtied and slowly burning on The
Barbie (oops mixed metaphor). Then the souvenir shops--we finally find the
right snow globe of the lighthouse we passed by on our sail tour. T-shirts
proclaim Fin Del Mundo (End of the World) and we buy. We buy jam for Don
properly labelled as is everything, socks, pans, what-have-you, with the end of
the world logo. 
Onboard for the nonce. Buffet. R. Chowder. Rockfish, seafood
quesadilla, mushrooms, salad. B. Eggplant curry (very good) turkey Milanese.
Being up there window-side offers a Birdseye view of the
pretty town.
Things checked on and responded to (we're in the due
diligence period and have just reviewed the inspection of our potential condo),
I get up after 4 and leave napping Bob a note (which he will find only after a
struggle on awakening) that I'm planning to swim. Which swim--sole swimmer--I
do for 80 lengths--alas that's only 1/2 hour's worth and then 10 minutes worth
of jacuzzi and 10 minutes upstairs in the nicely heated sauna. Life is lovely.
Our biggest problem is having to call our steward for ice for our mini-Martinis
as we watch the March across the Pettis Bridge in Selma on the 50th Anniversary
of the violently received March there. Now THAT was a real problem then and now
insofar as the right to vote is still being challenged. As Bob says being on a
cruise is a kind of modern equivalent of being in the aristocracy. Bring me my
ice Now!
The scenery continues ever since we've departed Ushaia--not
as spectacular mind you but still rates on the pretty meter. (Check that. It
gets extraordinary.) Bob notes that unlike ports we visited on the Royal
Princess, Northern Europe etc, where there were marching bands to greet us and
set us off, here we escape unnoticed. Where's the obeisance to the modern
aristocrats?
Meet John and Wally for the Captains celebration of us
Platinums and Elites--interesting to discover in this ship of 2400 that 400 are
gold, 200 Ruby, 600 Platinum and 200 elite. Captain's cute kids pull the
winning raffle cards. I have some greenish vodka concoction, Bob champagne,
John scotch.
Dinner with John and Wally. Includes anecdotes and personal
revelations--the bios. John was adopted. Had a crazy adopted family. He’s glad
he doesn't have their genes. I'm constantly reminded of his similarity in
background and affect to Danny Williams our dear departed comedian friend. Bob
keeps making references to the "nazi" town we just visited (with its
delight in the faux German). I say we looked for copies of Mein Kampf
souvenirs.
Appetizers. Taste John's beans, more than an appetizer. B
and R prosciutto. Good. And corn chowder soup. So so. R. Double lobster.
Lovely. The rest have chateaubriand which they like but they expected one cut
rather than slices like London broil.
Dessert. Wally and I have an ice cream sundae with caramel
sauce. Delicious. John crepe (great) and ice cream (doesn't like). Bob
chocolate mousse. Likes but hard to eat.
Wally and John to bed but we persist to watch a simplified
production show with the dancers and singers in Vista Lounge featuring musical
favorites from Cole Porter, Frank Loesser, Leonard Bernstein and Rodgers and
Hammerstein--the boy dancers are still clunky--and then the pre-balloon drop as
part of endless celebration of Princess's 50th.Mon, 03/09/15Punta Arenas, Chile Tender Required
wheelchair Access Limited7:00am – 7:00pm
MONDAY
MARCH 9
Punta Arenas, Chile- March 09, 2015
Punta Arenas lies atop rolling hills, looking out over the Strait of Magellan. In the days before the Panama Canal, this was a major port as ships plied the waters of Cape Horn. Punta Arenas remains a prosperous town today, thanks to its rich natural resources. The city is also the gateway to Chilean Patagonia, a maze of fjords, rivers, steppes, and mountains to the north. To the south lies the great frozen mass of Antarctica. Adventure awaits in any direction at this port located near the end of the earth.
Across the Strait of Magellan lies Tierra del Fuego, the lonely, windswept island discovered by Magellan in 1520. The region was settled by Yugoslavian and English sheep ranchers in the 19th century.
Across the Strait of Magellan lies Tierra del Fuego, the lonely, windswept island discovered by Magellan in 1520. The region was settled by Yugoslavian and English sheep ranchers in the 19th century.
Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve
PUQ645A | Punta Arenas, Chile
Date: March 09, 2015
After this cold, rainy day I feel the need for warmth. Up
for 50 length swim in the indoor pool on the 14th deck, then jacuzzi--woman
there in answer to my question about her town visit, relates about touring the house
of a wealthy widow turned into museum. That this is a more prosperous town than
the last one. Then take to the men's sauna on the spa level above.
We absent ourselves to go to the production show in the
lounge. Not the pink Cadillac show we've seen on larger stages but again a
pared down version of old time hits, this time well done.
DINNER
Appetizer. R&B: game and wild mushroom pate with port
wine and salad bouquet. Brilliant.
R cock a leekie soup with rice leeks and scallions (not
great) B. Field greens with shredded carrots and cherry tomatoes (ok) R and B
Surf and turf Petite filet mignon and jumbo shrimp with Au jus and bernaisse
sauce asparagus carrots and sautéed potato. We're very pleased.
But where is our wine that we cellared last night? We have
the head waiter on its trail. Wait.
TUESDAY
MARCH 10.
The sea and is rough and beautiful, charascuro mountains in
the distance as I return from a rocky stretch plus abs class. I awaken Bob with
the sound of my door opening I imagine. He's soon excited by the prospect of a
bag of wash for $20.
At breakfast captain announces that because of the 50 knot
waves (I think that's what he said in his heavy Italian accent) he's slowing
down to 10 knots to "lessen the pain". That means we'll miss Amalia
Glacier --something we'd looked forward to--damn. We're just proceeding to
Puerto Mont.
We overeat and are duly unhappy. Me a couple of croissants.
A tropical fruit and cottage cheese bowl yum. Mushroom and cheese omelette and
sausage and a couple of pots of camomile tea (a couple of servers take this
order--good technique for larger supplies of tea). Bob has scrambled eggs and
bacon and a couple of pastries.
Next to the Internet room to remind folks back home that
they'd better answer our questions before the due diligence period is over on
the condo purchase.
Lecture. Englishman professor.
Sun. We
are 10 days from Equinox, sun crossing the celestial equator. = equal day/equal
night.
Phases of
the moon. Full moon, moon opposite of earth to sun. 2 weeks: New moon same side
as sun. That's when eclipses occur.
Most new moons
don't get an eclipse. Eclipse of moon 2 weeks after solar eclipse.
Total
eclipse when in umbra. Partial when in penumbra. It will be closest to the sun
January 4.
Newton
figured out tides are caused by the gravitational effect of the moon.
Days are getting
longer, shorter in past. Moon slowing its rotation. Earth’s rotation slowing
down. Moon compensating by moving away.
Make an effort to see a total eclipse.
We won't see anything. Europe will see the
partial. Total will occur at Faro Island and Svalbard.
On March 9 2016 we can see a total
eclipse in the South Pacific.
August 21, 2017 there will be a total eclipse
in the USA. West to East. From Washington state across this Midwest. Next 350
to 450 years before takes this path. (I’ll
wait until then.)
We’ve had only 5 solar eclipses in 400
years. Most eclipses last 2 or 3 minutes.
Goes dark
quickly then stays light.
Superstition
attached to them.
One potentate
beheaded astronomers for failing to predict an eclipse. Detailed Chinese records
to 720 BC.
How we
calculate Easter: 1st Sunday after the 1st full moon after Equinox. Chinese New
Year is the 2nd Sunday after the first full moon of the equinox.
Now Rush to Lesson 5 of Spanish Class: Common signs like bienvenido,
words and phrases for going ashore, like plate = plato and Where is the = Donde
esta el/la.
Upstairs in the Horizon the theme is Tex Mex. Good.
In time for idiotic futuristic groundhog day concept movie
with Tom Cruse and Emily Blunt in the theatre. Called Edge of Tomorrow. Premise
he's an unpromising person conscripted to battle Armageddon aliens and relives
each day to finally, having learned from previous rehearsals, to defeat them
while learning more about the Blunt character.
And then the Fashion Show in the piazza. Passenger ladies,
mostly South Americans, dressed in promo fashions from the boutiques descend a
staircase in the piazza to much applause.
Wrestling with the Internet precedes a brief respite in our
stateroom before Elite lounge treatment in the Skywalkers Lounge (where
tonight's special is the $5 Chivas Rob Roy and steak tatar) above the stern with the best view on the
ship. So why not have three rounds. We're even getting glaciers the servant
tells us but could he be yet another Indian-continent marketing genius? (Most
of the servers in Skywalker's are Indian. Why?) Lots of waterfalls from the
rocks over, unusually, a fringe of greenery and perhaps flowering trees at the
base. (It's actually lights reflected from the bar we finally figure out.) Bob
is psyched so therefor am I. "How South American", he says, an expert
already. We're not doing glacier alley according to Das Capitan but this is
some sort of scenic alley anyway. We watch the fog and mist come in making it
all the more dramatic. 
Our needs are few so we repair to our stateroom to just
order a room service beef sandwich we share and a simple cab while taking in
the incredible scenery close up from the balcony or rather from inside since
it's fairly raw outside.
Zzzzz.
Tue, 03/10/15Amalia Glacier, Chile (scenic Cruising)
Scenic Cruising4:00pm – 5:00pm
Wed, 03/11/15At Sea
WEDNESDAY MARCH 11.
Decent night's sleep (doesn't mean I won't snooze during the
day's lectures) and up in time to the gym for some treadmill action before the
terribly young and sweet Irishman instructor Alan leads 6 or 7 of us through a
new but effective program of stretches followed by some ab work.
On the way out of breakfasting in the dining room (B. ham
and cheese omelet R. Lox and bagel) a guy seeing my Oxford t shirt says I
attended the Oxford of the U.S., Rice Technical in Houston. Funny. Especially
as it is said with a southern accent.
Chocolate demo. We get recipe booklet (should we want to
make 28 chocolate chunk cookies, serve 10 chocolate mousses accompanied by 26
truffles.) Ariel Prepares 8000 desserts with a staff of 16. Assisted by chef de
cuisine (supervises crown grill and Sabatini's). They've got a staff of 200 in
the galleys.
Host is gorgeous Fernando -- be still my heart, with the
Phillipino dessert chef Ariel, and Otto the German chef de cuisine. One great
aspect of cruising is the internationality of the crew.
Chocolate originated in Mexico. If you don't keep stirring, the butter and chocolate
separates.
Norman love trains the chocolatiers one by one in Florida.
VALPARAISO LECTURE. Chile has 17 million people. Have many earthquakes. Valparaiso is 70 mi from Santiago--the capital. Known as little San Francisco. Called Valpo for short. Over 300,000 population.
1st inhabitants
came from Peru. These were Indians who didn't oppose the white settlers.
Spanish Carson named Valpo after his birthplace.
Beginning
of 19th c most South American countries got their independence from Spain and
PORTUGAL.
Opening
of Panama Canal 1914 a killer. Many Europeans emigrated in the late 19th early
20th century. Different architectural styles consequently.1906 earthquake was serious.
Today Valpo is a modern town. The historic area is protected by Unesco.
One of two Main squares. Sotomayor--House of the Chilean navy. Pinochet set it up for the navy.
Elevators. 7 or 8 are working.
Lots of art.
Alegre district. See how people live.
Plaza Victoria is the Main square. Library. Nice. Cathedral. National. history museum. Free.
The British architecture. See the church of Madriz. Animal Pinto tour . . .
I'm nodding off.
Vina del
mar. $20 by taxi. Upmarket resort. Palaces. Carrasco palace is a museum. Fonck
museum features pre- Columbian Art.
Space
Vagara. Fine Arts. "The proper art museum."
Santiago,
commercial and financial center of Chile. 6 million people. Laid back people.
Plaza de Armad is main money Palace.
Fine art
museum and contemporary art museum. Near plaza. 600p for both.
Now I know everything.
I run to the other side of the ship for my Spanish lesson
no. 6. Irregular verbs. “To be” or not to be.
Lunch in the dining room. R. Roasted corn chowder with
bacon, bourbon and cream. Enjoyed. Followed by Swedish meatballs with mashed
potatoes and (smothered in) gravy. Good comfort level dish.
B. The corn chowder (also enjoyed) and a cheeseburger. Nice
bottle of Diseno Merlot. Couple next to us (first time this trip we are seated
near anyone) speaking French are having the catfish and veggies and it looks
good. Voila.
Winemaking
goes back 8000 years. Women made the wine for 1000's of years. Our tablemates
Maria and Tim friendly south Californians. Nam and Dona from Korea. She doesn't
touch her wine--we speculate that she's pregnant. Take your holiday now while
you can.
Veuve
Cliquot champagne. Made with 1 white and 2 red grapes. Champagne region buys
grapes and imports them. Moët Chandon 30 million bottles at any time. Store
underground at the same temperature.
Grow
bubbles in champagne.
1. Make
wine that is white. Aged in barrels.
2. Co2 into bottle--a 2nd fermentation. Add sugar and yeast.
2. Co2 into bottle--a 2nd fermentation. Add sugar and yeast.
3.
Ridling process. Start in horizontal position lift it one degree a day. All
sediments around the cork.
4. Took
ice from French glaciers, added salt. I 23 Farenheit. So sediment in few hours
frozen around cork. 5. Taste. Can add sugar. Some add the red grape for Rose.
Widow
introduced champs to the Russian court. They made champagne in her honor. Le
Grande Dame.
44
million bubbles are in a bottle.
He's talking forever while our champs sits there. Of widow
Cliquot . . .
Of Sauvignon
Blanc Underraga. He was a Chilean. His wife was Anna. Grew wine in Santa Anna,
Chile (he named it after her). Clear light color (chardonnays have more color).
Good for lunch. Fruity. Apples. (There are 6000 smells.) crisp.
Chardonnay
Silverado Founded in 1981. Stored in oak barrels. Aged 6 months. Stirred once a
week. Medium to dry.
Corvina
Zeni Amorone Amorone means bitter. Kept in drying room with warm temp stays 3
weeks to 3 months. 15% alcohol full bodied stored in oak barrels 2 years.
Cherries, strawberries, nuts. Slow legs. Therefore heavy alcohol percent.
Toast.
Lying (for friend) cheating (death)
stealing (a heart) drinking (with me)
Garnache
Melis Priorat Protected by Spanish government. This has a Ruby color because it
is young. Goes well with red meat. Bob is not keen on it.
Super
Tuscan Luce Della Vite (Sebastián gives the talk) Sangiovese grape. Dark Ruby
color. 14.5 alcohol level.
Meeting with our friends. Within the compass of our two martinis
we learn a lot about one another. Don's ancestry analysis and discovery, John
and Wally's sad adoption of a child in the 80's. (I'm thinking it would make a
possible play. Shall I try?) In our discussion of travel, we learn that we will
be on the same Australia to LA cruise with Don and Paul (from Palm Springs) in
April 2016.
In-room din din. R. Lasagna. Freshly cooked. Nice. B. Caesar
salad with chicken strips. Recommends for next week for me. We watch sappy
formulaic movie with Michelle Pfeiffer and George Clooney. Both single parents
with jobs on the line who at first are opponents and then of course lovers.
G'night.
Now please see part 2 for MORE "exciting" adventures aboard the Golden Princess Golden!
Now please see part 2 for MORE "exciting" adventures aboard the Golden Princess Golden!
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