2017 18 DAY GERMANY, SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA WITH DANUBE RIVER
DAY 1, Thursday Oct.12 - Depart for Germany OCT 12, 2017
The humiliation of being asked "are you eligible" only halfheartedly despite my newly blonded hair. This in regards to my being not required to remove my shoes as an over 75-er at security. Years past there would have been more of a semblance of disbelief. Oh well.
Aboard Alaska Air to the tune of a Baby crying right behind us. Fortunately it's only a 2 1/2 hour flight to Seattle before our transatlantic hop to the beckoning sights and sensations of Mittel Europa.
Then the barriers to blissful travel pop up. The long trek ride to the international wing as I realize I've lost my baggage claim tickets and then discover that Condor is not set up yet so we can't get our boarding passes which would enable us to enter the fabled Amex Centurion lounge in another wing. Grr.
Fast food and coffee/hot chocolate must be our lot lest blood sugar levels cause domestic verbal assaults. Bye bye to gourmet lunch and sommelier drinks at the Amex Centurion lounge.
I buy yet another pillow for my chronically painful neck; it helps (as my cortisone pills do not) as we await our plane.
We know we are being flown by Germans when the announcement is not only "fasten your seat belts" but "make sure they're tight". Premium class is fairly neat: we get a menu and goodies and desirable leg room.
With our substantial meal (giant prawn, salmon--I get Bob's--and snitzle, etc., cheeses, dessert), red wine and cognac as a "digestif".
I'm enjoying the formulaic--but Amy Shumer is a hoot--"Snatched" movie.
Then a documentary about Juliard--1/2 hour about the current students doesn't do it justice.
Depart for Frankfurt, Germany
DAY 2, Friday Oct. 13- Arrive in Frankfurt
Overnight: Mainz
Not a second of sleep. Bob doesn't catch much more I can tell. (Hell, later says he got some.) Priority Class is not for the elderly. Huge very European breakfast--better get used to it--cold cuts, cheeses, bread, yogurt. Discovering the Fargo TV series--gripping yet dripping with wry. Where can I find it?
I say I couldn't sleep and first day I'm going to be constipated so "Why do I travel?" Bob answers because it's boring at home when we're there all the time. I find this hilarious. Sleeplessness plays tricks.
Charming woman, Sonia, greets us at the traffpunct meeting point in terminal #1 of the enormous Frankfurt airport; she's from Trinidad and her team just beat ours for the world challenge in "football" (soccer)--How embarrassing. We explain that our country has much to be embarrassed about. We are all aware what is meant. She says we're a small group--only 14 [really 16]. Yippee. Our driver Horst, who will be our driver throughout the tour, comes for us. In 25 minutes we're delivered to the unpromising-looking Hilton located by the river in the charming town of Mainz.
There in the lobby fair bursting with energy and bonhomie is a large 40ish man, Marc, who will be our guide on the land portion of our tour. He whips out a map of the town and since its only 2pm and we won't have an official tour scrawls lines on it advising us of the high points all near the hotel.
We are bedraggled but obedient tourists that we are after refreshing with showers--pleasant digs, slippery shower; we've the town not river view--not bad--and an hour of nap--not longer--fearful of upsetting sleep patterns--we set out. Find what Bob immediately and correctly pre-identifies as a church we bombed, this one deliberately left in its destroyed situation as a memorial. (I recall seeing the Brits version in Calvary I believe 55 years ago. Tit for tat.)
though we'll miss seeing the couple of Guttenbergs in their museum we manage to traverse the essential scene. The Dom cathedral in the center of the great and absurdly picturesque cobblestones square, the mural and autumn-leaf festooned charming buildings, the cafes on the square, the St. Stephens church worth a great climb up multi-stairs to see its Chagall windows--wonderful of course.
And then, moment of truth--meeting our compadres over wine--(that amenity, although not quality stuff, will be plentiful--hooray). They will all turn out to be dear companions, good and interesting folk all but we can't know this at this juncture. As we give our brief bios--I stress how many trips we've been on with Gate1 and like the Discovery versions we've enjoyed this too is a small group (16 until the cruise when it's 12) and that's a good thing, and I stress that "we've met many wonderful people"--this to ward off any evil spirits that may lurk here. Though none seem to be in evidence in this fairly frumpy rumpled group--most
somewhat younger than us, Bob seeming to be the oldest--I may tie for 2nd place. Standouts at this stage are some ladies with strong personalities, a woman from Brooklyn "Can't you tell?" Who met her traveling partner, a man, through a bereavement group for widows/widowers of cancer victims. In conversation she immediately burrows into the need to create a new life--it's tossed off easily but it's immensely serious and I'm dizzy. Not cocktail party banter. There's a woman who looks a bit like Dane Edna Bob notes, a German woman who lives in America and we all designate as our negotiator in shopping. A couple we get to meet more elaborately at dinner from Oceanside, though they have a home in Pensacola who have led lives he from the Navy and she as a croupier; we gather they apparently follow a form of legal grifting which they are quite delightedly open about. I pursue this with them, thinking there's grist for playwriting here. The buffet is elaborate but as Bob reminds, once on the plate one dish blends--often literally--into another. Big eyes syndrome coupled with a desire to enjoy a variety of tastes has consequences.
Meals: Dinner
DAY 3, Saturday Oct. 14 - Rhine River Cruise & Heidelberg City Tour
The morning begins with a cruise on the scenic Rhine. See stunning vistas of hilltop castles, terraced vineyards and villages of timber-framed houses along the course of the river. Pass the mighty Lorelei rock rising vertically from the waters named for the siren "Lorelei" who bewitched sailors passing by. In Heidelberg, home to the oldest university in Germany, view the imposing red sandstone ruins of Heidelberg Castle originally built in the 12th century. This hilltop Gothic masterpiece has encountered times but still stands as a dominant symbol of the city. Balance of the day is at leisure in Heidelberg to discover the enchanting alleys and lanes in the Old Town with its small gardens, museums and lovely galleries
Overnight: Heidelber
Meals: Breakfast. 
Fitful but finally enough sleep.
Nobody plays supercilious better than James Fox--here on Inspector Lewis, spawn of the Morse series. We don't get to see if he's the murderer because it's breakfast time.
"Everything's good" pronounces Bob. It is indeed. No starving at the buffet. Meatballs too!
On our home away from home, our gigantic bus, we're on our way to the Rhine cruise and then Heidelberg. Frankfort is most Un-German city because of its skyscrapers. Reisbaden is the capital. Doestoyevsky lost a fortune there in the casinos. We'll pick up our cruise in Rudesheim about a hour away.
Throne gorge is a part of Unesco. Very quaint. Flanked by vineyards and castles. 14th and 15th century dukes and princes built castles along the Rhine. We'll see a little island with a toll tower, "mouse tower" [fog will put the kabox on that.] Marc says if it were just a toll tower people wouldn't visit so a story was made up. As it goes, the People revolted at the high taxes so prince killed people in his barn where mice revolted and ate him. Another of the legends of the Rhine--Lorelei Rock. Ships crashed there. Story-a beautiful girl sat there and sang songs which mesmerized soldiers. Count ordered son to capture her. They crashed; she jumped into the sea and became a mermaid.
This area is famous for Reisling. Wine Cultivated here from the Roman era. Can't use machines. Hand pick. Hence expensive. 1.2 billion bottles produced. Wine culture moving north because of global warming.
Lots of trees. Autumnal. Not very San Diego. And it's foggy. We hope it will clear up for our Rhine cruise so we can see the castles. "That gives Germany a mystical quality. Shrouds the concentration camps," Sayeth Bob.
Rhine starts in Switzerland. 825 miles long. 500 miles in Germany. Flows too in the Netherlands.
The sun pops out in time to see the Lorelei, pretty undistinguished like Denmark's similarly pedigreed Little Mermaid, and some of the most spectacularly charming scenery we've ever witnessed.
Rhudesheim is a charming town. Alas, the fog, the fog. Trying to make out the shapes along the shore. One woman in our group has an infectious (read piercing) laugh as they determine they can lol make up stories about what they've seen. Her husband insistently and loudly lectures. The music to defy the spheres, says Bob. (They will, like all undiscovered companions, turn out to be lovely.)
Of the view, "It's like watching a dead tv screen." Says Bob.
It's getting cold out in the open so we settle into the white cloth dining room--best choice. We have Federweiser, which is actually quite nice, refreshing. Light on the alcohol. Clearing up. We can see! . . . On again off again. The loudspeaker announces castles. Unseen. A lot of vineyards rising up the hills seeking warmth.
Then outside in the clearing we come upon a town Bob calls "very special", replete with turrets and half timbered houses.
Oh here's the Lorelei song (ref. Sound of Music) which means we'll soon see it. There's the rock--got a sign. There's the Lorelei. And then fantastic charm with the opening sun.
We need to change buses (cooling system failure) and do so at a rest stop where for 70 cents we get to use a restroom where everything is automated sort of--just place your hand over the toilet and it flushes--a show worth the money I guess.
Heidelberg' university the oldest in Germany. Founded 1382. 30,000 students, 25% foreign. Nestled in history but geared for the future. Heidelberg--150,000 inhabitants but those 30,000 students--so the town has a bustling nightlife. A baroque jewel. In 1694 Sun King--Louis 14--burned it down. So rebuilt then in that style. Not bombed in WW2. Barracks used for refugees today. Romantic city. Roman Catholic until Martin Luther in the 15th century. Saw indulgences paying for lifestyles of church hierarchy. He was popular because had Gutenburg's printing machine for pamphlets.
When the Roman Empire collapsed the Franks took over. In 9th c. Charlemagne divided his kingdom into 3. This part called itself Holy Roman Empire (they were neither). Charles 5 told Martin Luther to go to church in Reims--declared him an outlaw. Escaped and translated the Bible into German so people could read it and have their own opinions rather than the individual priests defending their power. Holy Spirit church in Heidelberg fought over--was for both religions. Now it's Protestant.
Suggests go to the castle for 7 euros. Largest wine barrel, dwarf. Hello--hallo or Guten tag. Goodbye--chiz. Danke. You're welcome. Bitte. Vasser is water. Cafe und kuchen is coffee and cake. Sien is push. Flankuchen is a light pizza. (Now we're talking.)
Here in charming (that word again!) Heidelberg it's really the best time of the year--dappled trees, the greens along the Neka River. A fairytale town, beautiful. "They do old well."
Walking tour. We are oriented by Marc to the center of town, bustling and beautiful. And at 2:30 left to our own resources. Shall we take the cable up to the castle? No. My battery has died so no pics; therefore what use a great vista over Heidelberg. Instead we walk the thoroughfare, see the marching young people dressed in black with yellow tape over their mouths. A student hands us a flyer. The march is for "Walk for Freedom". We wander into the main church, buy a Heidelberg snow globe and then find a charming pub for a pilsner of Heidelberg beer (great!) and 3 bratwursts and potato salad each (great).
Back for martinis (I find an ice machine) before heading out, this time on the unusual mission, for us, of looking for a gay bar nearby.
I tell Bob that I love this place, "Cavaly". Heidelberg is a sophisticated city. Bob: "They embrace camp." In this instance, it's so. Unsuccessful in finding the nearby gay bar, Lino's, hardly an avatar of the genre, the chandeliers and over the top decor--mind you sophisticated look--of Cavaly across the street and 5 minutes from our execrable hotel--well it's a room--beckons like a life line thrown to hapless tourists. A bottle of Spanish red and a margarita pizza. Heaven. Experiencing Heidelberg through our stomachs and gullets.
DAY 4, Sunday Oct. 15 - Black Forest
Head south on a scenic drive through the Black Forest region, an area of unrivaled natural beauty with its dense forests of thick pine trees. Nestled in the forest, you will see some of the charming traditional homes with their long sloping roofs. Continue on a drive to Schaffhausen, surrounded by vineyards. Here, you will see the thunderous Rhine Waterfalls; one of Europe's largest and most powerful. Then, on to beautiful Lucerne, with its pristine lakeside setting and gorgeous mountainous panorama.
Another breakfast we lay waste to here at the Crowne Plaza in Heidelberg as we prepare to take leave of it. Probably one of the worst we've stayed at under the aegis of Gate 1. Our little room looked out onto the roof and the tub shower was a hazard. . . . Nice to vent a little since everything else usually goes swimmingly on these tours.
Long ride today. Dark, winding ways on our way to Lucerne (half the size of Heidelberg but very expensive). Trucks don't drive on Sunday in Europe. Sunday is an enforced day of rest (especially if your neighbor doesn't like you and calls the cops if you're working or even mowing your lawn).
Marc gives chocolates "for all the ladies" and to us (pretty neat) because we weren't required to buy one for a lady. He plays "I lost my heart in Heidelberg", a march. It's silly.
Black Forest 140 miles long. Stuttgart is capital of Germany. Mercedes Benz made there.
I sit uncomfortably. My neck is getting worse. The cortisone tablet regimen is clearly a bust.
There's much vegetation in the Black Forest which is in the middle part of Germany, where we are, carved by the Rhine and Danube.
At a rest stop we find the mother lode. Music boxes! I buy Lara's theme from Dr. Zivago. There are rubber ducky's representing different professions. I say I can't find one that is retired. Fun.
In Black Forest. Glass blowing (green glass) because needed five hundred pounds of wood--trees--for two pounds of glass. Make cuckoo clocks. 5000 miles of walking paths. Viaducts, gorges, aqueducts. Skiing.
We are given a paper with our optional tours, most of which we've prepaid. Our German lady co-tourist says the Eagles Nest tour is a must. She's essentially apologizing for Hitler. (Oy.) "Stalin was worse. Nobody wants to know about that." (She's getting wound up.) "The Jews should let it rest." I shout "No! Never!" Bob says it's only the third day. She says she's tired of being blamed. Aha. We've just had a "moment". [Later as with all these initial encounters and quick character studies, we find there is much nuance to be gleaned and here we discover Terry's a delightful lady with whom we "bond" as it will turn out we do with all of our compadres.]
We go to Hell's Valley before ascending to Heaven as we enter the Black Forest.
Cuckoo clock demonstration is fascinating and then kinda nice eating Black Forest cake in the Black Forest (which is gorgeous!) along with a small bottle of kirshwasser (has a kick). Then it's 12:30 and the giant cuckoo clock goes through its paces.
And The weather is absolutely glorious. So far choosing October for this trip was a coup.
Amusing conversations with our companions. (The Oceanside couple believe in aliens.) My coda pronouncement on all prouncements of this nature: "We're all doomed." No dissent; no one disagrees.
Marc talks politics, that new younger refugees are here for the money government gives refugees. But go back to their countries on holiday. Merkel made the mistake of saying everyone welcome. Perhaps because of war remembrance being ashamed of being German.
Talks EU--and Brexit. Basically from Portugal to Poland no borders. Still new concept.
We've just entering Switzerland. Landlocked. 8 million people 4 national languages. German 65%. French 25%. Italian 10%. Romance. Small. A transit country. Highways are not free. 26 cantons (states). President chosen every year. Swiss don't want to give too much power to anyone. Not part of EU. Farm country. Don't want competition. Also banking secrecy. (Not allowed in EU.) Keep Jewish money from the war. Also all billionaires. 100,000 minimum to open an account.
Beren is capital, nice place to stay.
Next stop biggest waterfall in Europe. Only 75 feet high, 500 feet wide. Up to 150,000 gallons per second. Formed 15,000 years ago. It's really amazing, a great turret. And best of all, we buy a snow globe depicting Switzerland.
The big cities are on lakes. Practical people, not emotional. "Work like rolexes." Since 1850 neutral. Earn a lot of money, twice other countries. But life is expensive here. 4 different mentalities, reflecting which country they are nearest to.
Food, cheese fondue. Gruyete, emantaler. Have happy cows. Order platters with cheese and meats. Chocolate, 2nd only to Belgium (Marc's from Belgium). Healthy people. Bunkers all over, prepared for holocaust. Turn 18, 12 week course in military. Like to be low profile.
Lucerne. Catholic stronghold. 4 cantons on a lake. Defeated the Hapsburgs. Started with Celtic tribes, the Helveti. Then Allemane. 1291 1st constitution. 80,000 pop. Formed by light. City of light. Ora et labora. Work and pray. Monks. Fully contained monasteries. Hence its name. Became a trading town because of pass.
Before us the beautiful Alps mountain range. Weather varies. Tomorrow going up 7000 feet. 50 degrees F. Eichof beer is local. Everyone speaks English.
A walk in the city center. Rathaus Braueri is Marc's favorite. Clear lake. Chapel Bridge with paintings. Swans gift of Louis 14. Watchtower built 13th c. Decorated houses for Carnival. Lederach chocolate is top quality. 1 hour lake Lucerne cruises. Lion monument for soldiers who defended king.
This time it's a charming old hotel strategically located on the lake. However our room is small and facing the rear. This Reuel--Bob is otherwise inclined--won't bear and buys an upgrade to a larger room overlooking the lake, mountains in the distance, with a Juliette balcony. Lucerne!
Dinner in a chandeliered dining room and we sit with two smart ladies, Terry (the German lady) and Ethel her friend, a firebrand who as a commercial realtor has justifiably aggressive ideas about any impending sale of our West Sacramento property. The 4 course meal is mediocre but the company is excellent and we talk well beyond the legit expectations of the servers.
Back at our special room, the sky now darkened but the mountains still seen in relief, we have the remains of our afternoon's whisky. Just right.
Overnight: Lucerne
Meals: Breakfast, DinnerDAY 5, Monday Oct. 16 - Full Day in Lucerne
A full day to explore the heart of central Switzerland. Begin the day at the inspiring Lion Monument, one of the best-known monuments in the country, created in remembrance of the heroic death of Swiss guard killed in 1792. Continue to the 14th century medieval Chapel Bridge one of the oldest covered wooden bridges in Europe, forming the centerpiece of Lucerne's townscape. Later, time to shop for chocolate, watches and the famous Swiss and German cuckoo clocks or sip coffee at an outdoor cafe. In the afternoon, there is an opportunity to join the exciting optional tour to Mount Pilatus. Ascend the world's steepest cogwheel railway which winds up through lush meadows and sparkling mountain streams to the summit of Mt. Pilatus at nearly 7000 feet. After admiring the splendid panorama, descend by aerial cableway and return to your hotel
Optional: Mount Pilatus Tour
Overnight:
Not as enormous and varied a spread as at the Hiltons of he world but offered in yet another chandeliered dining room it suits quite well. Terry and Ethel join us and Bob elicits the story of scrappy Ethel working her way up in the business world of Chicago despite prohibitions against career women back when.
20 minutes to Mt. Pilates. 7000 feet. We'll be taking the "steepest cogwheel train (1889) in the world" and then cable cars down. Pilatus is from Latin "head in the clouds". Story of Polaris being exorcized by priests from the top of the mountain.
Worthwhile excursion. The cogwheel lifts us up--great panorama. At the apex we enjoy the wonderful weather and view.
We've an hour or so to wander. Musicians with alpine horns, winding our way through a tunnel mountainside. Taking the sun outside the mountaintop hotel.
And then the cable (quite secure-it's Swiss after all) down in two segments, the first a large car, the second, a pod which we two take with Marc (who hopes with his Kenyan wife to open a small hotel someday) as we, descending, hear the music of cowbells from the small herds of cows below.
At 1:30 we're back at the hotel for a nap. And a half hour later, recharged (iPhone too) the number 6 bus whisks us to the town center (we feel very liberated and brave). None of the restaurants Marc mentioned are apparent so we pounce on a rare lakeside table by the Des Alpes Hotel, an amazing location just by the old Channel Bridge we traversed yesterday in our highlights tour, dappled light on the water, an occasional swan floating by us. A bottle of Swiss Merlot, not at all bad. We choose two of the pri fixes. Well seasoned greens. Bob loves his main, Brussels sprouts, chestnuts, smoked tofu. I quite like my chicken smothered in a light cream sauce. 100 bucks but hey we're on holiday.
And then our Oceanside, San Diego/Pensacola friends join us. They're absolutely loopy and we love them. She made him quit gambling on pain of separation. I'm certain how strong some of the women are on this trip. Unity church members, they let us know they are appalled by their right wing neighbors in Pensacola. And like the ladies last night, they delight in telling us how they know and love gay people.
Wander about. Find the co-op where a bottle of wine, some cheese and cold cuts don't set us back much. Drifting down the block, We buy a chocolate sampler. It's placed in a cute boutique bag. You feel like a European? asks Bob. "I feel like my euros are peein'" I respond. (I know, a stretch.)
Actually jumping on a bus back to the Europe Hotel, we're pleased with ourselves, and then to establish cocktail hour (didn't we just consume a bottle of red?) residency we seat ourselves on the Juliette balcony overlooking Lake Lucerne--with vodka (no need for the ashtray). Of moments like these, a great life is concocted.
Swiss cheese in Switzerland is OMG. This with our meats and great bread makes a fabulous supper. Good choices as we settle in for the evening and watch CNN for the next disastrous performances from Herr President.
Meals: Breakfast
DAY 6, Tuesday Oct. 17 - Neuschwanstein Castle
The first stop today is in the tiny storybook Principality of Liechtenstein and its capital Vaduz, a proud remnant of feudal Europe, sandwiched between Switzerland and Austria. Next, drive through glorious Alpine scenery to visit Bavaria's "Mad" King Ludwig's fantasy castle of Neuschwanstein perched high above the valley below. This is one of the most visited castles in Germany and a symbol of idealized romantic architecture. Among the castle's finest rooms are two magnificent halls with extravagant decorations dazzling in gold and blue. Cross into Austria via the mighty Fern Pass and journey to Innsbruck, the Tyrolean "capital" of the Austrian Alps
Overnight: Innsbruck
Breakfast with the Hawaiian couple, Peter and Maria. Irrepressible she is from the Philippines. They met at a wedding when he was in the Navy and were married six months later. They have a 29 year old daughter with whom she watches movies like Under the Tuscan Sun (about a gay tour). This after I mentioned our gay tour of Russia. People seem very open on these tours, willing to reveal their bios at the drop of a hat (and accepting of us).
Good news. I am not charged for our room upgrade when I return the adapter I borrowed.
Canton of Zug. 28,000 companies registered. Heading to Lake Zurich. Then to the Order of Lichtenstein.
Photo of Lake Zurich. We pass gorgeous fields of green that will be covered in snow in a week or two. As move east more conservative. Moneyed St. Moritz there. 300 sunny days a year. Can take a train
over the mountains to Italy. Lichtenstein is an independent country but dependent on Switzerland.
Long tunnel; then we encounter the little town on the placid lake overwhelmed by gorgeous rock mountains on the other side.
Lichtenstein has only 35,000. Vaduz is capital. Rich country. Ruled by Lichtenstein family. Bought land here since the begining of the 18th c. Part of the Holy Roman Empire until Napoleon. Congress of Vienna in 1815. 4th smallest country in Europe.1. Vatican 2. Monico. It's a democracy. King could be elected but he's loved. Aloise is king, owns the county's biggest bank. Many Asians visit to spend money as in Switzerland. Quiet country. No airport or train station. Small wine production. Many statues. Church in neon style. 125 police. Safe country.
In the square, we get our passports stamped for three euros each. Bob: "A phrase that comes to mind, a clean well lighted place." Bob says the 1 euro toilet is worth it--polished granite urinals. And we find a Lichtenstein snow globe--85% camp credit.
Income tax in Germany 40%; Lichtenstein is 1%. Countries that tax less are more competitive.
Now going into Austria.
Passing through Bavaria. Became rich for its salt route. Necessary for preservation. The Son and daughter of Napoleon married into Bavaria and then he made it a kingdom. Don't consider themselves fully German. Very traditional--lederhosen. For many years old fashioned, now proud to be Bavarian. Beer drinking "purity" Octoberfest started with Ludwig 1st. It has been a state since the 1600's
Ludwig home schooled, liked nature. Didn't like people. Got strange being by himself. Never married. Attracted by the Sun King, Louis 14th. Built miniature versions of Versailles. Other passion, Wagner. Invited him back into Germany. Ludwig died mysteriously. Linderhof big money maker for Bavaria.
To Kurnigshlasser (King's Castle). Spas there, formerly for wealthy, now Asians.
And now his castles in the Bavarian Alps. Schloss Neuschwanstein. We have an hour in the town below the castle and head to a cute restaurant where we join Terry and Ethel and have a great time and a great meal, Bob and I the bratwurst and in Terry's recommendation white beer. I taste her dessert--a cake dipped in applesauce--heaven. Private coach through glorious pine trees to the castle.
Ludwig died 1886. Fascinating visit. He was a romantic. Palace focused on legends and Wagner operas. PreRaphaelite Murals throughout. This Tall man had a long bed in his bedroom. We walk through his adjoining cave passageway complete with stalagmites. Had a modern toilet, a telephone (though no one to phone since he was the only one).
Austria is landlocked. Starting on the west. Vienna is east. In history a huge empire--Hapsburg. Politically arranged marriages. Maximillian 15th c. Married to Mary of Burgundy. It was a Rare happy marriage. She died young. He settled in Innsbruck and built it up. His son Phillip the Handsome. Married Spain. Max's Sons: Ferdinand--Germanic land. Philip--Spanish lands. Started family intermarriage. Phillip's empire died out. Austrian side: Maria Theresa (16 children), one of whom was Marie Antoinette. Frank Joseph--longest ruler. The Hapsburg empire continued until WW1 when Frank Ferdinand assassinated. Now under the Marshall Plan it has become a wealthy country. Prices low. Most famous residents: Schwarzenegger and Hitler. (Refused by Austrian art school so went to Munich.)
Food: wiener Schnitzel (really Italian). sacher Torte. A relaxed people. Turoleans happiest. Viennese are grumpy.
We stop to take pictures at the Zugpitzblick and discover the brakes of our bus are overheated--we all noted the smell. Alas Horst fixes it. Another adventure aborted. As we wait to board Maria starts Zumba-ing and I join in. Onboard Marc says he's never seen anything like it (us). Then he plays Tyrolese melodies as we walz (rather our newly revived bus waltzes) through the mountains.
Innsbruck is "bridge over the river Inn". Important strategical point for Romans. 15th c became
capitol of Tyrol. Became Maximilian's residence of the Hapsburgs. Then Maria Theresa in 18th c put money into it. 140,000 population here vs. Vienna's 3 million. The 1st university and opera house in the Alps were in Innsbruck. Skiing city. Hosted Winter Olympics twice--'64 and '78. No records made. Can jump into graveyard of the church. Are jumpers scared?
Our hotel is a Hilton in the city center. The hotel is dowdy but it's well located. The room is "ok" and the view is lovely--displaying the mountain range in the distance.
7:30 Dinner. Tomato soup with croutons. I like. Chicken tarantelle stuffed with spinach and some kind of cream sauce. Bob says it's a commercial version of a frozen-food meal we often have at home. Molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice-cream--here a miniaturized dessert but good. I try, without dire consequence, decaf coffee since decafe tea is not available. I try to keep the conversation going; Bob has trouble hearing.
We sit with what we guessed were the Indian couple--not sure their actual origin. They are soft-spoken, sweet--both former nurses who retired early with real estate investments. Came from London to Alberta, Canada. 4 grown children. Travel of course.
It's 9:o'clock so instead of plunging into the nightlife--our hotel is attached to a casino--we retire to our room. Old people touring.
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
DAY 7, Wednesday Oct. 18 - Full Day in Innsbruck
Steeped in centuries of colorful history, Innsbruck features fine examples of Imperial splendor. Journey back in time with an array of splendid architectural gems from the Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical period. On your orientation tour, stop at the Golden Roof, overlooking a bustling square in the heart of historic Innsbruck and the Wilten Basilica, one of the most splendid churches in Tyrol with its stunning rococo decorations. Innsbruck has also hosted two Olympic Winter Games (1964 and 1976). See the famous ski jump used in the winter Olympics. Enjoy the afternoon optional tour to charming Seefeld with Carriage Ride. Tonight, experience an authentic Tyrolean evening on the optional tour featuring a varied entertainment program including folk music, Tyrolean dances and yodeling
Optional: Seefeld with Carriage Ride (PM)
Optional: Tyrolean Evening with drinks [We'll pass!]
Overnight: Innsbruck
Meals: Breakfast
"My observation for the day," announces Bob as I attempt to get out of my bed, "There's nothing more unforgiving in the morning than a motel mirror." Amen.
And then an hysterical breakfast with our group dumpling, Ann Gallo, holding forth hilariously in the role of the "good catholic girl" gone awry and regaling us with tales of her husband's funeral.
The Walk with Marc. Maria Theresa's wedding lasted a week long, and then her husband dies. Arch shows sad on one side, happy the other. Combo gothic style and baroque.
Early 15th c. Allied forces dropped 22 bombs on Innsbruck. Victory column commemorating plague, also built churches. Hospital church just outside the city wall. We're still at the baroque "new town".
Old Town. Pass church with Maximilian's tomb. The museum with 400 rooms. Trompe d'euillle. We see the golden roof topping fabulous facade. Hoebling house cake design rococo.
White Cross Knights of Malta for crusaders on way to Israel.
Swarovski Crystal store. Fascinating. 100's of excited Asians--buying. We escape--on our own. The signs. We realize our Wine Lover sign, which could hold its own, and dangling in front of our San Diego bar was inspired by these.
At this point I decide Ann needs a stand up act. I'll approach her later.
Into the dept store for sunglasses and underarm spray.
And then we discover a courtyard and then what might be the theatre, a music school?, a library? once a palace? is an eye opening facade. This is where curiosity leads us. And then a little over-the- top rococo chapel. St. George's Kappel. Oy we're locked in? Press that lever maybe. Free. And then across the way we're in the midst of a cathedral service.
After utterly charming lunch by accident with the ladies Terry and Ethel in the hotel bar--club sandwiches, Weiss beer--we are on the bus 2 minutes to the train to Seefeld where Marc sits with us and we question him about his life—as papa needing to balance work and home life--how his 2 year old called him on skype, how he and his East African wife want to open a guest house one day.
35 minutes, 35,000 population, away in Tyrole where our horses will be waiting. To see the Lake Church where a woman talked to the cross and her sins were forgiven. Duke built a church there. Then through the forests and parklands and the Winter Olympics site and on carriages back.
A relaxing klippityklop ride, pleasant scenery. We stop by a lake set within glorious mountain ranges. Marc pours a liquor for us and that makes us jollier. I approach Ann about doing an act--she doesn't seem enthusiastic, doesn't feel she can put it together. I say I can organize it. She says she tried to write s book but it didn't work. Later I record her for awhile and encourage her. Bob says I'm right to think her focus on death even though she insists she's moving on and her particular take on it is a worthy dramatic piece and agrees with me that she may not be able to handle it as performer (I could make Ann a "star") but suggests I ought to go with it as a monologue. I realize I'd need to interview her a few times. (She does't know what works as entertainment-poignancy. I do.) That's probably not going to happen.
Bob. "That was pretty boring. All we did was essentially take a look at a Tyrolean suburb of Innsbruck." Well . . . It was relaxing. Iran's supreme leader says Trump "pretends to be an idiot." My view— doesn't pretend.
We wend our way back, past the lovely river, with our shopping bags, my jeans falling, my neck hurting-I wanna go home [hotel] and am grateful when we get here. There's a choice--rather than go out and be served, though there were a number of lovely outdoor cafes--we choose to shop at the market and have an indoor supper. There's wine, something called Bio Cuvée Handwek which is an Austrian cab at 7.5 euros. Chocolatey and fruity. Buy a couple. We share a selection of spiced cheese balls and two tasty sandwiches, a salami-emmentaler (Swiss, can't fool us) and the other we're not sure but quite ok. Plus chips. We decide our lovely Linzer Torte that beckoned just before we exited the market can wait for another similar occasion. Besides the market didn’t sell a plastic knife and to tear at the Torte might be uncouth.
Bob gets a "Bavarian Happy Ending" (as I style it) when I massage his aching back. And so goodnight.
DAY 8, Thursday Oct. 19 - Salzburg City Tour
After breakfast, travel to Salzburg. This baroque jewel was the birthplace of Mozart. The guided walking tour takes you to view the house where Mozart was born, as well as to the squares and gardens of this beautiful city, crowned by the 11th century Hohensalzburg Fortress. The city is also known for the singing von Trapp family and the setting for the film, The Sound of Music. More time to explore charming Salzburg, or participate in the optional excursion into the surrounding countryside to the ruins of Obersalzberg, once a mountain retreat for senior Nazi SS officers. Then, transfer to special motor coaches adapted for the scenic mountain climb and ascend to Hitler's notorious "Eagle's Nest.”*
*Austrian Alps & Sound of Music Tour is offered when Eagle’s Nest Tour is not available during April, May, and November
Optional: Eagle's Nest Tour (PM)
Optional: Austrian Alps & Sound of Music Tour
Overnight: Salzburg
Meals: Breakfast
Salzburg—salt
and religion. Halle means salt. As we leave Innsbruck we pass the Olympic
Village—The stadiums. "My observation
for the day," announces Bob as I attempt to get out of my bed,
"There's nothing more unforgiving in the morning than a motel mirror.
After some tunes from
The Sound of Music, Marc plays Edelweiss
“The Austrian National anthem”. Actually, Marc explains, the Austrians don’t know it.
New City section bombed, not old town.
Here in new town—not
all that new. 400 year old palace. Gorgeous weather today. All of Austria 8
million. Salzburg is the 4th largest. Bishop. “Celebrate” his mistress with whom he had 15 children.
Catholic archbishop—mother a Medici. Disappointed with medieval Salzburg.
Destroyed much of the town to rebuild it into a new Rome. 109 churches in
Salzburg for 150,000 people. Very catholic. 1 synagogue. Change flowers here 3
times a year (formal Garden). English Garden more natural behind palace. Grew
potatoes here during war.
Mozart composed 600+ pieces. (Salieri made up story about killing Mozart.)
Statues around fountain, limestone. Hard to keep them clean. The theatre was the prince archbishop’s “ball house” for sports. Bells ringing all the time here.
Mozart’s widow outlived him 50 years. Inherited debts from his gambling and drinking in his associations with the wealthy.
At the river. Gabi guided Macron’s wife 6 weeks ago. Wore stilettos throughout. 50 euros per sq Meter (10ft square). See his birthplace—3rd floor.
Opera house used to be stable for horses. Sang edelweiss in full there. Handmade Mozart chocolate, fresher marzipan.
Stiegelkeller is definitely not the basement monastery restaurant we remembered from our last visit to Salzburg. (That was to the right of the funicular, not the left. It’s capacious and busy and we drive a nice young couple away from our table.
Once cleaned up our little group of 8 takes 3 cabs to our evening destination, an active monastery. The restaurant dates from 803 (oldest in Europe).
Don Giavanni.
This morning, continue to Munich. Arrive at Marienplatz square, cultural center of the city, dominated by the gothic New Town Hall housing Munich's world-famous Glockenspiel, which dates back to 1908. This colorful mechanical clock has life-size figures that dance to music with shows several times a day. In the afternoon, a guided city tour takes you past the Olympic Stadium situated in the heart of Olympia Park in northern Munich built as the main venue for the 1972 Summer Olympics. Continue for a photo stop at the breathtaking Nymphenburg Palace, once summer residence of the rulers of Bavaria, decorated with a gorgeous baroque façade. Driving through the city, you see countless museums, galleries, palaces and impressive historic monuments. A free evening perhaps to visit one of the famous beer halls!
Overnight: Munich
Meals: Breakfast
Veronica is our guide up to the Eagles Nest. We’ll be
going into Germany on to the Alpine Road. Obersalsburg (upper salt mountain).
We will be changing into a German bus. It will drive to the Eagles Nest. Very
narrow road, impassable for two busses.
We pass the “Hills are Alive” hillside. One side Austria,
the other Germany. Neighbors borrowing milk needed to show passports. In
Austria everyone is insured. Get 3 weeks a year in a 4-star spa for health
purposes gratis.
The real van Trapps house confiscated by Himmler who used
chapel for office to condemn people to death.
On our way to the bus we have a riff with Dale about how he still
works to subsidize us in our retirement—funny—Bob asks Dale, the Ghanian, his age (62) I say he’s young enough Bob can
be his father. He was an active teenager. Dale says he knew Bob was "a player"—these
quiet ones always are. Hilarious. (I knew I liked the guy.)
A full day to enjoy Munich with its plethora of shops and restaurants and to explore at leisure. Perhaps, venture to the mountains on the optional tour to the fairytale village of Oberammergau and visit Linderhof castle. Tonight, toast your final night in Munich with a delicious dinner at a local restaurant
Optional: Linderhof & Oberammergau (AM)
Overnight: Munich
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
No need to leave the confines of the Holiday Inn. Here in the huge dining room at breakfast—where there is a preponderance of tiny Asians and a smattering of tall, nattily dressed Germans—there are faux-windows behind which are mural photos of the Alps. No need to leave and here it is dry. Outside from our room’s nasty view (of real garbage cans) there is rain. (The weather will be fine soon.)
Sold figurines to pilgrims. Started covering the facades
of their houses with religious themes. Also a woodcarving school. After war
these woodcarvers restored the churches in Germany. 
As we leave the church we hear Jan yelling about
finding the church. I see Dale and say it’s a quiet village. Used to be says
Bob. Dale says maybe he should find a husband. I, a husband? He: “They don’t
fret.” I—after I take that one in—“Let me tell you something . . . “
Terry says it’s a grease knuckle ? Soup. Actually menu
details “Griessnockerlsoup with Brezel” that last being a pretzel we are
instructed to dip. I notice Terry pours salt into the soup which underscores
my belief that it’s a bit bland unlike the consommé of this afternoon. We all
order Sauerbraten—braised beef with spaetzle accompanied by a cool mixed salad,
all topped off with a yummy “typical Bavarian” cream strudel with stewed
cherries. Not to mention our free glass of undistinguished red wine.
It’s all very celebratory replete with speeches and toasts and once we’ve strolled back to our hotel a block away (past a jeweler who advertises that he buys the gold in your teeth—prompting much discussion in response to Laura’s horror. Hugs for those who are not continuing on, Shanti (who I give our blog card) and Dale—going on to London where their son lives—and Rich and who are also continuing their travels and have our card.Time this morning for last minute sightseeing, or shopping in Munich before the early afternoon departure to Vilshofen. Arrive at the port for embarkation. After arrival formalities, time to relax on board. Tonight, a gala Welcome Dinner sets the mood for your delightful river cruise
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Dinner. Appetizer carmelized pear; smoked duck breast.
Soup—Fiddle Suppe (chicken consommé with
sliced pancakes) bland— I ask where are the pancakes slices? Terry says it’s
a first cousin to a pancake. I say once removed. seafood risotto. (Strong but
has integrity) Entree Wellington tenderloin of pork in puff pastry.
After dinner Terry and Ethel have an hysterical argument
about medical vs recreational marijuana. Bob and I can hardly breathe it’s so
(unintentionally) funny.
D AY 12, Monday Oct. 23 - Passau & Regensburg City Tour
This morning cruise into 2500-year-old Passau, a Bavarian town with a mix of Roman, Italian Baroque and Gothic architecture. Tour this small city known for its pastel patrician houses, cafes, cobblestone lanes and riverfront promenade. Return to the ship for lunch before departing by coach to explore Regensburg, one of Germany's largest and best preserved medieval cities, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The guided walking tour highlights the city's stunning architecture as you view the Old Town Hall, Dom St. Peter and the Porta Praetoria, gateway to an ancient Roman fort built in 179 AD. Marvel at beautiful churches and one of the oldest stone bridges crossing the Danube. Return to the ship this evening and set sail for Austria
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
We’ll be walking into the City Center. Our group—we’ve
agreed to stick together on all things til death do us part or something as we
rise from our table for eight by the dining room entrance—good omelette at the
buffet—is the red group and we’ve got an energetic young guide, a student here
in Regensburg, Andreas. Founded 109.
Roman soldiers set it up. This is the
Northernmost point of the Danube. Romans deFended it for 300 years.
Pronounced Rraongsberg. Became wealthiest trading city in Germany 11-13th c.
It’s wealth declined end of 14th c. Turkish troops invaded. Columbus also
discovered the new world and new trading routes in the north of Germany.
Population declined. 
After WW2 got a university. So of the 150,000 population, 30,000 are students.
We’ve an hour to enjoy a glass of wine in the lounge and
then a buffet lunch but this time adjacent to our traditional table of eight we
sit with Jan and Bruce who we learn are retirees who live in Vermont and
Massachusetts (in a skiing community—they’re avid skiers). They’re genealogists
and have discovered that both of their families were on the Mayflower. I tell
them they’re engaging in incest. They are very genial but I notice we’ve asked
them many questions but they don’t seem to evince any interest in us.
Back to our suite (for such it is) to nap and rise to
watch our vessel going through the locks. After several tries Bob is able to
explain to me what’s going on “The water’s on different levels so to avoid
going over the falls, they do it gradually.” Ya!
DAY 13, Tuesday - Oct. 24 Full Day in Passau
DAY 14, Wednesday Oct. 25 - Melk Abbey
Disembark in Melk this morning for a guided tour of the historic Benedictine Abbey, considered one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Europe. View the Abbot's chambers, the Kaiser's walk and the lavish library. Then, return to the ship and continue cruising through the scenic Wachau Valley on the way to Vienna, the Imperial city legendary for its opulence and elegance. Tonight, perhaps take the opportunity to attend an evening of Viennese culture in the "City of Music" at an optionalconcert performance of the classical masterpieces of Mozart and Strauss, two of Vienna's most famous citizens
Optional: Classical Viennese Concert (PM)
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
It’s Melk. Being a good boy. Exercise Class with Amir at 7:30. This time Laura joins the Chinese Lady and me.
Napoleon stayed here in early 19th c. Placed canons here in case of Austrian attack.
1/2 million visitors each year to Melk.
Onboard there’s 1/2 price bloodies. Entering the Wachau
Valley. Lots of fruit trees. Very pleasant in the upper deck for viewing—and
the weather is pleasant. Many picturesque scenes, monasteries, castles, towns,
vineyards.
Dinner. Our new Australian friends as we leave for our
Mozart concert: “Remember it’s not karaoke. Don’t song along.” They were fun as
we sat at the alternate table. Of course we all tried to get our two tables for
ourselves. (I told the Aussie, "We’ve bonded. We’re going home together.")
especially because it’s Tom’s 64th birthday (Ann was showing us his baby
picture—with his twin) and there was much cake sparkling and a silly birthday
march—neat. Interesting that the Aussies (born British) regard Trump with fear
and loathing and say that’s the general international consensus—yes. This is
after all the day that Sen. Jeff Flake joins Bob Corker in warning the world
about Trump.
Palace of Augsburg—300 years old. Mozart performed there.
(We wonder if we were here 15 years ago with our RSVP river cruise.) Concert
begins 8:15. Highlights Mozart/Strauss with dancing in traditional Viennese
costumes and opera singers. The Marriage of Figaro/ Emperor and Blue Danube
walz. Small hall only about 480 seats (and Gate 1, with its two river ships
parked side-by-side tribute to G1’s success and ubiquity disgorged 1/2 of the
hall’s concert goers).
As we pass along the river, the buildings look like those along Central Park or Riverside Drive in New York. Heavy Traffic giving us minutes before “curtain” because tomorrow is Independence Day. We hear fireworks as proof if the impending celebration.
It’s a gorgeous although airless and overheated room for
the concert in the palace— chandeliers, bas reliefs ringing the hall. It’s not
where we heard the Mozart concert last time—more a theatre setup then and we
sat in the balcony. As to the concert
itself--easy listening as expected but a higher standard than expected. Though
the solo violin was not highest caliber, the singers were—and we all were
particularly smitten with the young baritone’s voice and looks—a pair of ballet
dancers too with not much room on the small stage, housing ten musicians, for
their well-executed lifts—all essaying various Mozartian and Hayn snippets in
the first half abetted by champagne at intermission and Strauss favorites in
the second.
Back on the bus in an hour and a half. We eschew the stew soup (really?) at the ship and instead climb unaccompanied to the upper deck for a glimpse of city lights in the night sky.
This sparkling city on the Danube has captivated travelers for years with its elegant shops, world-class museums, and beautiful gardens. Drive along the famed Ringstrasse, Vienna's main boulevard lined with magnificent Baroque palaces, parks and monuments. View the lavish Hofburg Palace, and the impressive Vienna Opera House. Continue to majestic St. Stephen's Cathedral and the Parliament building. Enjoy the afternoon at a café sampling the famous Viennese Sacher Torte, or, join the optional afternoon tour to the Imperial Schonbrunn Palace, once summer residence of the Hapsburgs. Visit the opulent baroque apartments and stroll through the world-famous manicured gardens. The ship will remain docked in Vienna this evening
Optional: Schonbrunn Palace Tour (PM)
History. Vienna was founded by Romans who built their fortresses
along the Danube starting in 100 AD. Windfobiner-clouds blowing rain away.
Romans left around 500. Austrian monarchy most powerful in the world. Hapsburgs
ruled over 600 years.
Historicism style (copied styles) of most buildings here.
Ornate. Museum was stables of Hapsburgs. Volkstheater—the people’s theatre.
Meant comedies performed here.
Lunch with some of our our compadres aboard. The tomato soup is excellent. “Not Campbell’s” says Bob. Lovely club sandwich, the day’s special which means we don’t need to struggle in a buffet, is suggested by the others who preceded us and the hazelnut ice cream with caramel is a delight.
Saw H’s city palace this morning. The summer palace
outside city of Vienna.
Modeled after Louis palace in France.
We still have plentiful vodka for our martinis.
DAY 16, Friday Oct. 27 - Bratislava City Tour
This morning, enjoy the tranquil scenery as the ship sails along the scenic Danube. At noon, arrive in Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, a mix of modern and Baroque architecture. This capital city is among the youngest in Europe, yet retains a rich history dating back more than 2000 years. Walk along the cobblestone lanes of the historic town center; view St. Martin's Cathedral, coronation site of the Kings of Hungary, the 13th century Old Town Hall and the Franciscan church. Time to explore this colorful city on your own before return ing to the ship for dinner as you sail for stunning Budapest
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Then Rudy, the cruise director, offers background for
tomorrow’s stop. Hungarians were a nomadic tribe originally. Split. Tough times.
Invaded by Ottomans. Absorbed by German nations. Then Austrian Hungarian
nations. One side Buddha, other Pest. Known for baths and paprika.
Your morning tour begins on the Pest side of the city, view the Parliament, City Park and Heroes Square. Cross to Buda to see the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and the graceful medieval architecture along the cobbled streets. Explore the city's wonderful shops and cafes this afternoon on your own. Tonight, enjoy a lavish Captain's Dinner on board
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
We are stopped while a giant crane does something. Guide
says we’re watching typical Hungarian scene—9 workers watching 2 who are
working.
DAY 18, Sunday Oct. 29 - Depart Hungary
This morning, disembark and transfer to the airport for your departure flight. Disembarkation will end at 9:30 am
Meals: Breakfast
It could be worse. Our plane out of Budapest is at 10:30
so Gate 1 being overly cautious it’s bags out at 6, quite nice breakfast with
custom omelette and rainy-ish walk to the bus at 6:50. And so we depart our
lovely ship home of the past week, emblazoned as it is with the logo “More if
the world for less.” True indeed. Gate 1 does a terrific job.
So when I purchased the flight from Budapest to Frankfort
on Lufthansa the agent said to my question if we’d have enough time to collect
our luggage and re-enter to board the Condor transatlantic, “no problem” or did
I miss the translation from the German. But . . . Of course we have to wait for
our luggage. Condor is in the other side of the airport. The agent says we
missed the plane; then realizes the clock turned an hour back today. Really!!
We are misdirected (I officially heretofore don’t like the Germans.) and have
a huge wait through security and then customs and then try to find and race to
our gate at the other end of the terminal as we hear over the loudspeakers
—come to Gate 45 (that’s us)
Immediately! Breathless. We make it. Someone is actually later than we
are. Settling into our seats as the whole plane watches, Bob who I think is
going to have a heart attack (or will it be me first) says “We had an
adventure.” Reminders of running through Tokyo airport years ago. Such fun. La!
Then now Irony! We hear the captain telling us that the airport is 1. Closed
(high winds), 2. There are 62 planes ahead of us 3. And we will be delayed an
hour and 20 minutes. I need a drink. As premium economy we’re 2 rows behind
business class and they’re getting their’s damnit. From now on it’s biz class
for us without exception. The little gift bundle of goodies on our seats are hardly enough to assuage the green eyed monster. 
And consolation prize is that entertainment is accessible except that we’ve got the only seats where the tv’s are a neck stretching (not arthritically favorable) distance above and away. Really??
Berry British. Grand. Directed by Guy Ritchie (famous for
being macho violent and one of Madonna’s hubbies?) Richie really is a master of
action adventure and it’s riveting—great images, jump cuts, pulsating musical
underscoring, but . . . The violence and fighting gets wearisome when
plot—something about hero raised in a brothel who is really the true king and
gets ambivalent about the responsibility of pulling out that sword and exacting
revenge on the evil king which he does anyway repeatedly—when plot succumbs to
the effects. So I give up 15 minutes before the finale.
Fire breathing dragon ahead of us. Hope we don’t snore that loudly during the fitful naps.
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| OUR LOVELY GROUP OF TRAVELERS: WE LIKE 'EM ALL The positives: our small group of fellow travelers (who we were to discover are interesting, smart, personable folks with whom we would "bond") all of whom have a story to tell; a fantastic guide on the land portion of the tour, Marc, one of the best--affable, knowledgeable; generally yummy food, great beer--who knew?; marvelous sights, the mountains, the castles along the river, story-book charming cities; concerts in palaces; beautiful new river ship for the cruise portion. And the weather? Brilliant, balmy--sunny skies (except for a little rain in Budapest). (How nice of Gate 1 Tours to arrange that for us too.) The negatives: not even worth mentioning . . . so we won't. |
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| DEPARTING SAN DIEGO |
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| SEATTLE |
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| CONDOR CREW LINES UP |
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| HEY, IT'S BETTER THAN--BLECH--ECONOMY |
Fast food and coffee/hot chocolate must be our lot lest blood sugar levels cause domestic verbal assaults. Bye bye to gourmet lunch and sommelier drinks at the Amex Centurion lounge.
I buy yet another pillow for my chronically painful neck; it helps (as my cortisone pills do not) as we await our plane. We know we are being flown by Germans when the announcement is not only "fasten your seat belts" but "make sure they're tight". Premium class is fairly neat: we get a menu and goodies and desirable leg room.
With our substantial meal (giant prawn, salmon--I get Bob's--and snitzle, etc., cheeses, dessert), red wine and cognac as a "digestif".
Then a documentary about Juliard--1/2 hour about the current students doesn't do it justice.
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| HUGH JACKMAN IN "LOGAN" |
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| "FARGO"--DIVERTING |
DAY 2, Friday Oct. 13- Arrive in Frankfurt
Arrive in Frankfurt and transfer to your hotel in nearby Mainz on the storied Rhine River. The remainder of the day is on your own to rest and relax. In the evening, a briefing by your Tour Manager introduces you to the delightful program that lies ahead, followed by a Welcome Drink and Dinner with your fellow travelers
Not a second of sleep. Bob doesn't catch much more I can tell. (Hell, later says he got some.) Priority Class is not for the elderly. Huge very European breakfast--better get used to it--cold cuts, cheeses, bread, yogurt. Discovering the Fargo TV series--gripping yet dripping with wry. Where can I find it?
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| GOOD MORNING I GUESS |
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| FRANKFURT, GERMANY |
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| FRANKFORT TO MAINZ |
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| OUR WINDOW VIEW |
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| CHURCH THE ALLIES (US!) BOMBED |
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| THE DOM IS INTACT |
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| CHAGALL'S WINDOWS |
Back in time for that aforementioned nap and discovering the many languages represented on the Telly, to fix on ITV with its game shows and old British series--inspector Morse and, less British, Murder She Wrote. Comfort food for the brain.
And then, moment of truth--meeting our compadres over wine--(that amenity, although not quality stuff, will be plentiful--hooray). They will all turn out to be dear companions, good and interesting folk all but we can't know this at this juncture. As we give our brief bios--I stress how many trips we've been on with Gate1 and like the Discovery versions we've enjoyed this too is a small group (16 until the cruise when it's 12) and that's a good thing, and I stress that "we've met many wonderful people"--this to ward off any evil spirits that may lurk here. Though none seem to be in evidence in this fairly frumpy rumpled group--most Meals: Breakfast.
Fitful but finally enough sleep.
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| IT'S "FREE" SO . . . |
Nobody plays supercilious better than James Fox--here on Inspector Lewis, spawn of the Morse series. We don't get to see if he's the murderer because it's breakfast time.
"Everything's good" pronounces Bob. It is indeed. No starving at the buffet. Meatballs too!
On our home away from home, our gigantic bus, we're on our way to the Rhine cruise and then Heidelberg. Frankfort is most Un-German city because of its skyscrapers. Reisbaden is the capital. Doestoyevsky lost a fortune there in the casinos. We'll pick up our cruise in Rudesheim about a hour away.
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| THERE'S OUR GHOST SHIP |
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| WHO ARE THEY? |
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| MAN IN THE MIRROR |
Lots of trees. Autumnal. Not very San Diego. And it's foggy. We hope it will clear up for our Rhine cruise so we can see the castles. "That gives Germany a mystical quality. Shrouds the concentration camps," Sayeth Bob.
Rhine starts in Switzerland. 825 miles long. 500 miles in Germany. Flows too in the Netherlands.
The sun pops out in time to see the Lorelei, pretty undistinguished like Denmark's similarly pedigreed Little Mermaid, and some of the most spectacularly charming scenery we've ever witnessed.
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| SHIPBOARD TILED MURAL MARKING CASTLES WE SEE |
Rhudesheim is a charming town. Alas, the fog, the fog. Trying to make out the shapes along the shore. One woman in our group has an infectious (read piercing) laugh as they determine they can lol make up stories about what they've seen. Her husband insistently and loudly lectures. The music to defy the spheres, says Bob. (They will, like all undiscovered companions, turn out to be lovely.)
Of the view, "It's like watching a dead tv screen." Says Bob.
It's getting cold out in the open so we settle into the white cloth dining room--best choice. We have Federweiser, which is actually quite nice, refreshing. Light on the alcohol. Clearing up. We can see! . . . On again off again. The loudspeaker announces castles. Unseen. A lot of vineyards rising up the hills seeking warmth.
Then outside in the clearing we come upon a town Bob calls "very special", replete with turrets and half timbered houses.
 |
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| TINY CREATURE |
We need to change buses (cooling system failure) and do so at a rest stop where for 70 cents we get to use a restroom where everything is automated sort of--just place your hand over the toilet and it flushes--a show worth the money I guess.
Heidelberg' university the oldest in Germany. Founded 1382. 30,000 students, 25% foreign. Nestled in history but geared for the future. Heidelberg--150,000 inhabitants but those 30,000 students--so the town has a bustling nightlife. A baroque jewel. In 1694 Sun King--Louis 14--burned it down. So rebuilt then in that style. Not bombed in WW2. Barracks used for refugees today. Romantic city. Roman Catholic until Martin Luther in the 15th century. Saw indulgences paying for lifestyles of church hierarchy. He was popular because had Gutenburg's printing machine for pamphlets.
When the Roman Empire collapsed the Franks took over. In 9th c. Charlemagne divided his kingdom into 3. This part called itself Holy Roman Empire (they were neither). Charles 5 told Martin Luther to go to church in Reims--declared him an outlaw. Escaped and translated the Bible into German so people could read it and have their own opinions rather than the individual priests defending their power. Holy Spirit church in Heidelberg fought over--was for both religions. Now it's Protestant.
Suggests go to the castle for 7 euros. Largest wine barrel, dwarf. Hello--hallo or Guten tag. Goodbye--chiz. Danke. You're welcome. Bitte. Vasser is water. Cafe und kuchen is coffee and cake. Sien is push. Flankuchen is a light pizza. (Now we're talking.)
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| OH MY |
Here in charming (that word again!) Heidelberg it's really the best time of the year--dappled trees, the greens along the Neka River. A fairytale town, beautiful. "They do old well."
Walking tour. We are oriented by Marc to the center of town, bustling and beautiful. And at 2:30 left to our own resources. Shall we take the cable up to the castle? No. My battery has died so no pics; therefore what use a great vista over Heidelberg. Instead we walk the thoroughfare, see the marching young people dressed in black with yellow tape over their mouths. A student hands us a flyer. The march is for "Walk for Freedom". We wander into the main church, buy a Heidelberg snow globe and then find a charming pub for a pilsner of Heidelberg beer (great!) and 3 bratwursts and potato salad each (great).
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| "WHAT OFT WAS THOUGHT . . ." |
I tell Bob that I love this place, "Cavaly". Heidelberg is a sophisticated city. Bob: "They embrace camp." In this instance, it's so. Unsuccessful in finding the nearby gay bar, Lino's, hardly an avatar of the genre, the chandeliers and over the top decor--mind you sophisticated look--of Cavaly across the street and 5 minutes from our execrable hotel--well it's a room--beckons like a life line thrown to hapless tourists. A bottle of Spanish red and a margarita pizza. Heaven. Experiencing Heidelberg through our stomachs and gullets.
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| BACK TO THE HOTEL |
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| ACTUALLY, IT'S SUN. THE 15TH, MARC |
DAY 4, Sunday Oct. 15 - Black Forest
Another breakfast we lay waste to here at the Crowne Plaza in Heidelberg as we prepare to take leave of it. Probably one of the worst we've stayed at under the aegis of Gate 1. Our little room looked out onto the roof and the tub shower was a hazard. . . . Nice to vent a little since everything else usually goes swimmingly on these tours.
Long ride today. Dark, winding ways on our way to Lucerne (half the size of Heidelberg but very expensive). Trucks don't drive on Sunday in Europe. Sunday is an enforced day of rest (especially if your neighbor doesn't like you and calls the cops if you're working or even mowing your lawn).Marc gives chocolates "for all the ladies" and to us (pretty neat) because we weren't required to buy one for a lady. He plays "I lost my heart in Heidelberg", a march. It's silly.
Black Forest 140 miles long. Stuttgart is capital of Germany. Mercedes Benz made there.
I sit uncomfortably. My neck is getting worse. The cortisone tablet regimen is clearly a bust.
There's much vegetation in the Black Forest which is in the middle part of Germany, where we are, carved by the Rhine and Danube.
At a rest stop we find the mother lode. Music boxes! I buy Lara's theme from Dr. Zivago. There are rubber ducky's representing different professions. I say I can't find one that is retired. Fun.
In Black Forest. Glass blowing (green glass) because needed five hundred pounds of wood--trees--for two pounds of glass. Make cuckoo clocks. 5000 miles of walking paths. Viaducts, gorges, aqueducts. Skiing.
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| SAYS IT ALL |
We go to Hell's Valley before ascending to Heaven as we enter the Black Forest.
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| CUCKOOS |
And The weather is absolutely glorious. So far choosing October for this trip was a coup.
Amusing conversations with our companions. (The Oceanside couple believe in aliens.) My coda pronouncement on all prouncements of this nature: "We're all doomed." No dissent; no one disagrees.
Marc talks politics, that new younger refugees are here for the money government gives refugees. But go back to their countries on holiday. Merkel made the mistake of saying everyone welcome. Perhaps because of war remembrance being ashamed of being German.
Talks EU--and Brexit. Basically from Portugal to Poland no borders. Still new concept.
We've just entering Switzerland. Landlocked. 8 million people 4 national languages. German 65%. French 25%. Italian 10%. Romance. Small. A transit country. Highways are not free. 26 cantons (states). President chosen every year. Swiss don't want to give too much power to anyone. Not part of EU. Farm country. Don't want competition. Also banking secrecy. (Not allowed in EU.) Keep Jewish money from the war. Also all billionaires. 100,000 minimum to open an account.Beren is capital, nice place to stay.
Next stop biggest waterfall in Europe. Only 75 feet high, 500 feet wide. Up to 150,000 gallons per second. Formed 15,000 years ago. It's really amazing, a great turret. And best of all, we buy a snow globe depicting Switzerland.
The big cities are on lakes. Practical people, not emotional. "Work like rolexes." Since 1850 neutral. Earn a lot of money, twice other countries. But life is expensive here. 4 different mentalities, reflecting which country they are nearest to.
Food, cheese fondue. Gruyete, emantaler. Have happy cows. Order platters with cheese and meats. Chocolate, 2nd only to Belgium (Marc's from Belgium). Healthy people. Bunkers all over, prepared for holocaust. Turn 18, 12 week course in military. Like to be low profile.
Lucerne. Catholic stronghold. 4 cantons on a lake. Defeated the Hapsburgs. Started with Celtic tribes, the Helveti. Then Allemane. 1291 1st constitution. 80,000 pop. Formed by light. City of light. Ora et labora. Work and pray. Monks. Fully contained monasteries. Hence its name. Became a trading town because of pass.
Before us the beautiful Alps mountain range. Weather varies. Tomorrow going up 7000 feet. 50 degrees F. Eichof beer is local. Everyone speaks English.
A walk in the city center. Rathaus Braueri is Marc's favorite. Clear lake. Chapel Bridge with paintings. Swans gift of Louis 14. Watchtower built 13th c. Decorated houses for Carnival. Lederach chocolate is top quality. 1 hour lake Lucerne cruises. Lion monument for soldiers who defended king.
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| FAMOUS LION |
Dinner in a chandeliered dining room and we sit with two smart ladies, Terry (the German lady) and Ethel her friend, a firebrand who as a commercial realtor has justifiably aggressive ideas about any impending sale of our West Sacramento property. The 4 course meal is mediocre but the company is excellent and we talk well beyond the legit expectations of the servers.
Back at our special room, the sky now darkened but the mountains still seen in relief, we have the remains of our afternoon's whisky. Just right.
Overnight: Lucerne
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Optional: Mount Pilatus Tour
Overnight:
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| LOVELY VIEW FROM OUR BALCONY |
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| ONE OF THE EUROPE HOTEL'S DINING ROOMS |
Not as enormous and varied a spread as at the Hiltons of he world but offered in yet another chandeliered dining room it suits quite well. Terry and Ethel join us and Bob elicits the story of scrappy Ethel working her way up in the business world of Chicago despite prohibitions against career women back when.
20 minutes to Mt. Pilates. 7000 feet. We'll be taking the "steepest cogwheel train (1889) in the world" and then cable cars down. Pilatus is from Latin "head in the clouds". Story of Polaris being exorcized by priests from the top of the mountain.
Worthwhile excursion. The cogwheel lifts us up--great panorama. At the apex we enjoy the wonderful weather and view.
And then the cable (quite secure-it's Swiss after all) down in two segments, the first a large car, the second, a pod which we two take with Marc (who hopes with his Kenyan wife to open a small hotel someday) as we, descending, hear the music of cowbells from the small herds of cows below.
At 1:30 we're back at the hotel for a nap. And a half hour later, recharged (iPhone too) the number 6 bus whisks us to the town center (we feel very liberated and brave). None of the restaurants Marc mentioned are apparent so we pounce on a rare lakeside table by the Des Alpes Hotel, an amazing location just by the old Channel Bridge we traversed yesterday in our highlights tour, dappled light on the water, an occasional swan floating by us. A bottle of Swiss Merlot, not at all bad. We choose two of the pri fixes. Well seasoned greens. Bob loves his main, Brussels sprouts, chestnuts, smoked tofu. I quite like my chicken smothered in a light cream sauce. 100 bucks but hey we're on holiday.
And then our Oceanside, San Diego/Pensacola friends join us. They're absolutely loopy and we love them. She made him quit gambling on pain of separation. I'm certain how strong some of the women are on this trip. Unity church members, they let us know they are appalled by their right wing neighbors in Pensacola. And like the ladies last night, they delight in telling us how they know and love gay people.
Actually jumping on a bus back to the Europe Hotel, we're pleased with ourselves, and then to establish cocktail hour (didn't we just consume a bottle of red?) residency we seat ourselves on the Juliette balcony overlooking Lake Lucerne--with vodka (no need for the ashtray). Of moments like these, a great life is concocted.
Swiss cheese in Switzerland is OMG. This with our meats and great bread makes a fabulous supper. Good choices as we settle in for the evening and watch CNN for the next disastrous performances from Herr President.
Overnight: Innsbruck
Good news. I am not charged for our room upgrade when I return the adapter I borrowed.
Canton of Zug. 28,000 companies registered. Heading to Lake Zurich. Then to the Order of Lichtenstein.
Photo of Lake Zurich. We pass gorgeous fields of green that will be covered in snow in a week or two. As move east more conservative. Moneyed St. Moritz there. 300 sunny days a year. Can take a train
over the mountains to Italy. Lichtenstein is an independent country but dependent on Switzerland.
Long tunnel; then we encounter the little town on the placid lake overwhelmed by gorgeous rock mountains on the other side.
Lichtenstein has only 35,000. Vaduz is capital. Rich country. Ruled by Lichtenstein family. Bought land here since the begining of the 18th c. Part of the Holy Roman Empire until Napoleon. Congress of Vienna in 1815. 4th smallest country in Europe.1. Vatican 2. Monico. It's a democracy. King could be elected but he's loved. Aloise is king, owns the county's biggest bank. Many Asians visit to spend money as in Switzerland. Quiet country. No airport or train station. Small wine production. Many statues. Church in neon style. 125 police. Safe country.
In the square, we get our passports stamped for three euros each. Bob: "A phrase that comes to mind, a clean well lighted place." Bob says the 1 euro toilet is worth it--polished granite urinals. And we find a Lichtenstein snow globe--85% camp credit.
Income tax in Germany 40%; Lichtenstein is 1%. Countries that tax less are more competitive.
Now going into Austria.
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| LEIDERHOSEN LADS |
Ludwig home schooled, liked nature. Didn't like people. Got strange being by himself. Never married. Attracted by the Sun King, Louis 14th. Built miniature versions of Versailles. Other passion, Wagner. Invited him back into Germany. Ludwig died mysteriously. Linderhof big money maker for Bavaria.
To Kurnigshlasser (King's Castle). Spas there, formerly for wealthy, now Asians.
And now his castles in the Bavarian Alps. Schloss Neuschwanstein. We have an hour in the town below the castle and head to a cute restaurant where we join Terry and Ethel and have a great time and a great meal, Bob and I the bratwurst and in Terry's recommendation white beer. I taste her dessert--a cake dipped in applesauce--heaven. Private coach through glorious pine trees to the castle.
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| PRINCES AND DISNEY CASTLE |
Austria is landlocked. Starting on the west. Vienna is east. In history a huge empire--Hapsburg. Politically arranged marriages. Maximillian 15th c. Married to Mary of Burgundy. It was a Rare happy marriage. She died young. He settled in Innsbruck and built it up. His son Phillip the Handsome. Married Spain. Max's Sons: Ferdinand--Germanic land. Philip--Spanish lands. Started family intermarriage. Phillip's empire died out. Austrian side: Maria Theresa (16 children), one of whom was Marie Antoinette. Frank Joseph--longest ruler. The Hapsburg empire continued until WW1 when Frank Ferdinand assassinated. Now under the Marshall Plan it has become a wealthy country. Prices low. Most famous residents: Schwarzenegger and Hitler. (Refused by Austrian art school so went to Munich.)
Food: wiener Schnitzel (really Italian). sacher Torte. A relaxed people. Turoleans happiest. Viennese are grumpy.
We stop to take pictures at the Zugpitzblick and discover the brakes of our bus are overheated--we all noted the smell. Alas Horst fixes it. Another adventure aborted. As we wait to board Maria starts Zumba-ing and I join in. Onboard Marc says he's never seen anything like it (us). Then he plays Tyrolese melodies as we walz (rather our newly revived bus waltzes) through the mountains.
Innsbruck is "bridge over the river Inn". Important strategical point for Romans. 15th c became
capitol of Tyrol. Became Maximilian's residence of the Hapsburgs. Then Maria Theresa in 18th c put money into it. 140,000 population here vs. Vienna's 3 million. The 1st university and opera house in the Alps were in Innsbruck. Skiing city. Hosted Winter Olympics twice--'64 and '78. No records made. Can jump into graveyard of the church. Are jumpers scared?
Our hotel is a Hilton in the city center. The hotel is dowdy but it's well located. The room is "ok" and the view is lovely--displaying the mountain range in the distance.7:30 Dinner. Tomato soup with croutons. I like. Chicken tarantelle stuffed with spinach and some kind of cream sauce. Bob says it's a commercial version of a frozen-food meal we often have at home. Molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice-cream--here a miniaturized dessert but good. I try, without dire consequence, decaf coffee since decafe tea is not available. I try to keep the conversation going; Bob has trouble hearing.
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| REUEL'S PET LOBBY COW |
It's 9:o'clock so instead of plunging into the nightlife--our hotel is attached to a casino--we retire to our room. Old people touring.
Optional: Seefeld with Carriage Ride (PM)
Optional: Tyrolean Evening with drinks [We'll pass!]
Overnight: Innsbruck
Meals: Breakfast
"My observation for the day," announces Bob as I attempt to get out of my bed, "There's nothing more unforgiving in the morning than a motel mirror." Amen.
And then an hysterical breakfast with our group dumpling, Ann Gallo, holding forth hilariously in the role of the "good catholic girl" gone awry and regaling us with tales of her husband's funeral.
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| MAN IN (SOME SORT OF) UNIFORM |
The Walk with Marc. Maria Theresa's wedding lasted a week long, and then her husband dies. Arch shows sad on one side, happy the other. Combo gothic style and baroque.
Early 15th c. Allied forces dropped 22 bombs on Innsbruck. Victory column commemorating plague, also built churches. Hospital church just outside the city wall. We're still at the baroque "new town".
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| THE GOLDEN ROOF |
Old Town. Pass church with Maximilian's tomb. The museum with 400 rooms. Trompe d'euillle. We see the golden roof topping fabulous facade. Hoebling house cake design rococo.
White Cross Knights of Malta for crusaders on way to Israel.
Swarovski Crystal store. Fascinating. 100's of excited Asians--buying. We escape--on our own. The signs. We realize our Wine Lover sign, which could hold its own, and dangling in front of our San Diego bar was inspired by these.
At this point I decide Ann needs a stand up act. I'll approach her later.
Into the dept store for sunglasses and underarm spray.
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| THE NATIONAL FRUIT |
And then we discover a courtyard and then what might be the theatre, a music school?, a library? once a palace? is an eye opening facade. This is where curiosity leads us. And then a little over-the- top rococo chapel. St. George's Kappel. Oy we're locked in? Press that lever maybe. Free. And then across the way we're in the midst of a cathedral service.
After utterly charming lunch by accident with the ladies Terry and Ethel in the hotel bar--club sandwiches, Weiss beer--we are on the bus 2 minutes to the train to Seefeld where Marc sits with us and we question him about his life—as papa needing to balance work and home life--how his 2 year old called him on skype, how he and his East African wife want to open a guest house one day.
35 minutes, 35,000 population, away in Tyrole where our horses will be waiting. To see the Lake Church where a woman talked to the cross and her sins were forgiven. Duke built a church there. Then through the forests and parklands and the Winter Olympics site and on carriages back.
A relaxing klippityklop ride, pleasant scenery. We stop by a lake set within glorious mountain ranges. Marc pours a liquor for us and that makes us jollier. I approach Ann about doing an act--she doesn't seem enthusiastic, doesn't feel she can put it together. I say I can organize it. She says she tried to write s book but it didn't work. Later I record her for awhile and encourage her. Bob says I'm right to think her focus on death even though she insists she's moving on and her particular take on it is a worthy dramatic piece and agrees with me that she may not be able to handle it as performer (I could make Ann a "star") but suggests I ought to go with it as a monologue. I realize I'd need to interview her a few times. (She does't know what works as entertainment-poignancy. I do.) That's probably not going to happen.
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| CHICKS AND GEESE AND DUCKS BETTER SCURRY |
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| POURING THE ELIXIR RITUAL |
Bob. "That was pretty boring. All we did was essentially take a look at a Tyrolean suburb of Innsbruck." Well . . . It was relaxing. Iran's supreme leader says Trump "pretends to be an idiot." My view— doesn't pretend.
We wend our way back, past the lovely river, with our shopping bags, my jeans falling, my neck hurting-I wanna go home [hotel] and am grateful when we get here. There's a choice--rather than go out and be served, though there were a number of lovely outdoor cafes--we choose to shop at the market and have an indoor supper. There's wine, something called Bio Cuvée Handwek which is an Austrian cab at 7.5 euros. Chocolatey and fruity. Buy a couple. We share a selection of spiced cheese balls and two tasty sandwiches, a salami-emmentaler (Swiss, can't fool us) and the other we're not sure but quite ok. Plus chips. We decide our lovely Linzer Torte that beckoned just before we exited the market can wait for another similar occasion. Besides the market didn’t sell a plastic knife and to tear at the Torte might be uncouth.
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| OLYMPIC SKI SLOPE |
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| BYE BYE PET COW |
*Austrian Alps & Sound of Music Tour is offered when Eagle’s Nest Tour is not available during April, May, and November
Optional: Eagle's Nest Tour (PM)
Optional: Austrian Alps & Sound of Music Tour
Overnight: Salzburg
Meals: Breakfast
Salzburg—salt
and religion. Halle means salt. As we leave Innsbruck we pass the Olympic
Village—The stadiums. "My observation
for the day," announces Bob as I attempt to get out of my bed,
"There's nothing more unforgiving in the morning than a motel mirror. |
| NEED STRENGTH FOR SALZBURG |
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| SUNRISE VIEW FROM OUR ROOM |
After some tunes from
The Sound of Music, Marc plays Edelweiss
“The Austrian National anthem”. Actually, Marc explains, the Austrians don’t know it.
Wolfgang von
Ratenow—Bishop. Mozart born in
Salzburg. First 23 years. Hated it. Lived in time of Maria Therese. His music
ahead of his time. Died poor—spent all his money.
Red Bull big in
Europe. Sponsor extreme sports.
New City section bombed, not old town.
Gabi is our Salzburg
guide. Mozart was under 5'1” tall. But big statue here. Today Market day—every Thurs
morning. Trying to dodge the tour busses.
Here in new town—not
all that new. 400 year old palace. Gorgeous weather today. All of Austria 8
million. Salzburg is the 4th largest. Bishop. “Celebrate” his mistress with whom he had 15 children.
Catholic archbishop—mother a Medici. Disappointed with medieval Salzburg.
Destroyed much of the town to rebuild it into a new Rome. 109 churches in
Salzburg for 150,000 people. Very catholic. 1 synagogue. Change flowers here 3
times a year (formal Garden). English Garden more natural behind palace. Grew
potatoes here during war. Mozart composed 600+ pieces. (Salieri made up story about killing Mozart.)
Sound of Music put
Salzburg on the map. We’re at a Pegasus statue where Do a Deer scene was
filmed.
Statues around fountain, limestone. Hard to keep them clean. The theatre was the prince archbishop’s “ball house” for sports. Bells ringing all the time here.
Mozart’s widow outlived him 50 years. Inherited debts from his gambling and drinking in his associations with the wealthy.
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| THOSE WONDERFUL BATHROOMS |
At the river. Gabi guided Macron’s wife 6 weeks ago. Wore stilettos throughout. 50 euros per sq Meter (10ft square). See his birthplace—3rd floor.
Austrian German
mentality. Important what the neighbor thinks. Constantly renovate. Here 13th
and 14th c. Houses are Kept up.
Opera house used to be stable for horses. Sang edelweiss in full there. Handmade Mozart chocolate, fresher marzipan.
Alas I buy a little
painting which I lose and a snow globe which I break. Oy.
Stiegelkeller is definitely not the basement monastery restaurant we remembered from our last visit to Salzburg. (That was to the right of the funicular, not the left. It’s capacious and busy and we drive a nice young couple away from our table.
"No sviena drinka
aligna" advises Terry. ("Don’t drink alone"—no problem.) I’ve (as does Ethel) the
duck (good, especially with the cranberry sauce), Bob’s dumpling “tough but
good”. Ed of Ed and Laura, the Washington lawyer couple, joins us. We have fun commenting on the
codpiece of our server.
Our hotel tv has a
Sound of Music channel. So we watch.
Once cleaned up our little group of 8 takes 3 cabs to our evening destination, an active monastery. The restaurant dates from 803 (oldest in Europe).
Magnificent room. The program—an older
baritone and an Asian soprano. Medium quality voices and first violin is a bit
of a “spieler” but it’s a great event. We’re surprised to hear from Marc that
very few in these
groups want to attend concerts even though this is the heart of classical
music. He talks of Indian tourists who are demanding. We are seated with Terry and Ethel
(dressed to the 9’s)
and Ann and Tom.
Lemon chicken soup.
Warm. Not tasty. Bob likes the “matzah ball”.
Figaro.
Main quite nice
actually. Chicken with sweet potato purée and a lovely potato.
The Magic Flute.
Dessert. Delicious.
DAY 9, Friday Oct. 20 - Explore Munich
Overnight: Munich
Meals: Breakfast
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| NOTHING TO EAT |
Fall is the best time for Mountains. Hazy here spring and
summer days. 407 feet through a tunnel. Brass lined elevator to the Eagles
Nest. Walk through a restaurant. Open fire place lined with marble. Past Eva
Braun’s room.
Way down past salt Mines.
She tells us how lucky we are to have this weather.
Hitler may have chosen this mountain to be like
Charlemagne’s Holy Roman Empire.
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We’re passing along the Kingslake river. Monastery
dissolved by Napoleon—became summer residence. Hitler checked in to the hotel in the
mountain as Mr. Wolf. In 1923, then organized the “beer hall putz”. Sentenced
to 6 years in jail—spent less than a year. Started Mein Kamph. With money he
earned from it bought a house on the mountain. Berghof (name for simple
mountain house). Wanted people to believe it was modest—developed it into 30
rooms. His compadres followed and built houses. Martin Boreman, private sec’y,
bought the mountain. Threatened locals to do it. (Breadwinners arrested in this
time of poverty.) Became 2nd headquarters (besides Berlin). Called Kaystein
House. Used only for representative purposes. Party members lived here all year
round. Built town here. Alpine Fortress. Bombed 25 April 1945.
Pilgrimages to ruins of Hitler’s house. Therefore
destroyed everything in 1952.
20 minute journey on the German bus—closed in winter.
Eagles Nest was Built between 37-38. Rise to power 1933. Now Run as a private
mountaintop restaurant. We’re going to take an elevator up the mountain to the
EN. 5 tunnels.
Goebbels wife, in love with Hitler, poisoned her 6
children rather than live with Naziism.
The views are stunning. All this uneathly evil occurring
in one of the most beautiful places on earth.
Vicky tells us that in the elevator a lady says I’m missing
my husband. Operator says we’ll find him in the spring when the snow thaws.
Fun chatting with our compadres. All very pleasant. I
notice that the couples are all studies in contrasts, not excluding Bob and me
of course. Laura and Ed (Washington attorneys), Shanti and Dale (nurses) Ann
and Tom (widowers from New Jersey), Maria and Peter (from Honolulu—he’s Navy,
she’s a nurse), Ethel and Terry (the Ladies from Chicago), and Nancy and Rich,
the gamblers with homes in Oceanside and Pensacola); Exuberant Jan with plaited
gray hair and very quiet husband Bruce.
Of Hitler--lived
life of Bohemian in Vienna). 1933-vice chancellor; 1938–invaded Austria;
married Eva Braun in the bunker before suicide. Martin Boreman died in last
bombing of Berlin. His son became catholic priest. Herman Goering. “They will never hang me.”
The real van Trapps house confiscated by Himmler who used
chapel for office to condemn people to death.
A number of our party are obsessed with the Sound of
Music and we do get to stop at the gazebo where scenes were filmed. It’s a
definite industry for Salzburg.
Our guide had the secretary of Oscar Hammerstein on tour who
told her he wrote Edelweiss knowing that
he was dying of cancer.
We see the convent where Maria actually was a novice. The
abbess didn’t allow filming there though.
Back into Deutschland.
After Munich Regensberg is 1 1/2 hour north of Munich.
Driver regulated
has punch card. Must drive max 4 hours 35 mins. Can drive 15 hours max. Per
day. Can be fined. Regulated for EU
since can drive from Portugal to Russia
without stopping.
We have an absolutely superb lunch at the rest stop. 17
euros ($20) self serve salad—with tuna Fish, pasta, wine and bread. Marc had
cautioned us that we might want a fancy meal tonight so eat light. (I guess he
noticed that we ordered a bottle of fancy wine with our meal last night at the
Mozart concert). Bob says he loves Germany. I say what’s not to like,
beautiful, clean and no chaos.
On our way to the bus we have a riff with Dale about how he still
works to subsidize us in our retirement—funny—Bob asks Dale, the Ghanian, his age (62) I say he’s young enough Bob can
be his father. He was an active teenager. Dale says he knew Bob was "a player"—these
quiet ones always are. Hilarious. (I knew I liked the guy.)
Interesting how we bounce like pinballs among our
compadres indulging in snatches of conversation—usually amusing.
Plays Roll Out the Barrel again (German version) to
simulate the “atmosphere we’ll expect in
the Hofbrau Haus tonight”.
Napping all the way to Muenchin. Usual pattern Marc marks
up a city map for us and goes over the sights we ‘ll see. Then we unload in our
hotel before getting an overview walk with Marc.
“The Last Stroll”
Munich comes from Monk, was a monastery. Started out as a
trading town for salt and beer. Monastery built 8th c.
Germans coming home from work now—eat and drink hard too.
Grew Rapidly 15-16 c. Heart of Catholicism. (Kids learn
English by watching movies.) Then plague. Then Napoleon 1803.
1.3 million people. Berlin 3.5. We approach the city Gate, there are 8 of them extant Was a kind of border Gate. Checkpoint.
Approaching old town hall. Rebuilt after bombing,
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| GLOCKENSPIEL--MUSICAL, REVOLVES |
Town hall—RatHaus—finishes in 1908. Aloise Dalmeyer for fancy food. Glockenspiel show. Wedding.
Join our friends at a cafe in the great square.
We’re sitting in the shadow of the city hall and Rich
says it’s appropriate it’s called Rat House.
It’s wonderful, people wandering and socializing in the
squares. Thanks to Marc writing it down we turn off the main drag past the
statue of the boar to Augustiner Klosterwirt—it’s huge and we get seating
downstairs with the promise that we’re gone by 8 (reserved then for a Frau
Maring-Kunzel (aka Sandra). No problem. We get a lager barrel made in a “wooden
vessel" and its delish. Bob won’t have the specialty—pork knuckles-so orders
wiener schnitzel, I go for broke and have the “house special”. I like the
soup—a dark tasty broth with a melt in the mouth dumpling. (Hey it’s a matzo
ball.) the pork knuckle is tender inside a hard crust. And we share the lovely
apple pie and ice cream (sort of) dessert. I decide this is
my favorite restaurant in all of Munchin. Big arches of brick— dark wood. The
rumble of people glad to be here.
Our compadre lady with the gray hair pigtail greets us
with a kiss as we ascend the stairs and we say hello to Laura and Ed who have
been dining outside and grab a cab back to the hotel (it’s a bit of a walk).
Can sleep be far behind?
DAY 10, Saturday Oct. 21 - Full Day in Munich
Optional: Linderhof & Oberammergau (AM)
Overnight: Munich
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
No need to leave the confines of the Holiday Inn. Here in the huge dining room at breakfast—where there is a preponderance of tiny Asians and a smattering of tall, nattily dressed Germans—there are faux-windows behind which are mural photos of the Alps. No need to leave and here it is dry. Outside from our room’s nasty view (of real garbage cans) there is rain. (The weather will be fine soon.)
Marc: "So this is how clouds look like".
Sybil is our morning tour guide.
Museum. Issa Gate. 82 M in Germany. 12 M in this state,
Bavaria. Each state has its own autonomy, its own primeMunich is more than just eating, dancing and drinking beer. Marienplatz is the main square. Issa flows into the Danube. Has 17 theatres. Closely connected to Nazis—beerhall putsch here. Hitler started out here. Huge tevhnocal minister.
51,000 students at Ludwig’s Maximillians university.
Brewery institute is at oldest brewery nearby—1000 ad. Mein Kamph was banned
until 2016 in Germany. It has now been republished with state’s commentary.
Hapsburgs lived here then moved for part of year to
summer palace.
Ludwig 1st was the grandfather of mad king Ludwig. Reason Munich
called northernmost province of Italy—he admired Italian Renaissance style.
70 Insurance cos. here. Huge Walking Man statue by
Borovsky shocked people here. Munich conservative. Can’t build higher than
highest Church.
Original art nouveau buildings in student quarters.
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| PINT SIZED |
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| OUR NEXT CAR? |
BMW logo propeller engine of airplane in front of
Bavarian sky. 300 publishing cos. Here. 6 large breweries here. Lowenbrau
largest.
BMW World. (Stuttgart is Mercedes and Porsche plant). We
stop here. Beautiful showroom. Marc points to the Rolls and says that’s for us.
Olympic Village. Pool where Mark Spitz won medals is
open. 40 years ago, massacre of the Israeli team. Artificial park with hills on
former airport. Munich was only responsible for 25% of the cost of the Village.
Dachau 1st concentration camp in 1930–only months after
Nazis gained power. Not a death extermination camp but 40,000 died from
starvation and working conditions.
Expensive accommodations on west side of Munich where
wind comes from. Very high cost for property.
Pass through park with the canal. Leads to the summer
palace. The palace started 350 years ago—nyphenberg-Castle of the nymphs. In
use til today. Ludwig 2 was born here. It’s enormous.
2 state religions, Roman catholic, Lutheran. Tax 10%__ no
separation church and state.
Education free. Must learn GERMAN first. Therefore 2 1/2
million students. Don’t provide for housing. Many enrolled just for financial
benefit. If your income is 60,000 30% is tax.
Octoberfest—last weekend Sept beginning October. 7
million people are here drinking. Locals better off leaving. Beer tents hold
10,000 people. Oops bands. Gemutlichkeit — cozy, homey. Sing cheers to that.
People standing on benches. People “mentally ill”. Waitresses carry 12 steins
at a time. Very strong. Originally had to do with October tournament
celebrating royal wedding. Beer must be brewed locally, “purity law” means only
barley, yeast and water.
Be
er gardens hold 15,000 people. Picnic areas. Royal Square. Past where Hitler and Mussolini signed
pact. Munich Treaty. 1938. Old masters art building. 6th largest in world. Under
renovation.
Siemens largest employer in Europe. “Another nazi building on the left.” Bavarian National Museum. (Impressive.)
Dropped off at the main square to our own devices. Buy a snow globe, this time one that’s boxed.
Then in St. Michael's. Magnificently restored post war.
 |
| LIVING STATUE PREPARING |
We are the only customers at Schnitzelwirt, a find. "Very
satisfying in a mother’s kind of way” says Bob tasting my meatballs (delish in
its sauce). Gemutlich, I say, suddenly and alarmingly now fluent in German. We
also enjoy the potato salad in my dish, “2 Stuck Fleoshpflanzerl. I have one of
his delicious black breads that accompany his cheeses and salad. My beer is
wonderful—I’m developing an appreciation. His glass of white wine suits. Bob
allows that he really enjoyed this lunch.
The only other customers now are 3 Asian girls who call
the server over and point to the coasters and say they want that instead of
apple juice. Go girls.
A few must-see churches along the way, one impossibly
rococo and we just make the bus at 12:15 so our compadres can’t applaud us
(which is what is accorded latecomers).
We’re approaching the biggest Abbey. Ludwig became Holy
Roman Emporer in 1300. Built modest abbey later transformed. Still 50
Benedictine monks there. Need to make money so have a brewery and bookstore,
etc. It's gorgeous but we don’t stop so I don’t get a picture. Just imagine it
then. As Ann would say, "Get over it."
Linderhof. Smaller castle. Another far away location. (He
didn’t like people.)
 |
| UNDER CONSTRUCTION |
Ludwig died in 1886 at age 40–king at 18. Castle 9 years
in construction. Bro-rococo style. He admired the French Kings of 150 years
earlier. Dedicated his castle to Louis 14. Gifts from Napoleon. Chinese Vases
with Bavarian dragon handles, that sort of thing.
I want to live here. Gorgeous bedroom.
Dining room. Could raise and lower table. Trap door.
Small table. Miecin porcelein chandelier. Details upon gilted details.
Mirrors looking at mirrors. Fireplaces of lapis. Imagine
transporting all that material here over hill and dale.
Oberamahau 17th c. Terrified of the plague. Decided to
have a play for Jesus to prevent plague in 1724. At first stage over the graves
in the graveyard next to the church. LIt worked so did it every year. Stage now
for 4700 people. 2000 actors. Lasts 6 hours. Every 10 years. Next 2020.
Oberammergau = Area above the land.
Sold figurines to pilgrims. Started covering the facades
of their houses with religious themes. Also a woodcarving school. After war
these woodcarvers restored the churches in Germany. 
And the church—it’s as Bob says glamour, it’s theatre.
What brought people to church when I wonder how in these glorious surroundings
one can meditate and reflect.
As we leave the church we hear Jan yelling about
finding the church. I see Dale and say it’s a quiet village. Used to be says
Bob. Dale says maybe he should find a husband. I, a husband? He: “They don’t
fret.” I—after I take that one in—“Let me tell you something . . . “
We see some of our fellow travelers have
discovered ice-cream cones. We choose to pass. There’s a “farewell” supper
coming—though most of us will be continuing on. Bob says he doesn’t like cones
anyway because they drip. “I know,” I say, very much aware of Bobs impulse
toward neatness.
 |
| QUICK PICKUP |
Minutes before our time to board the bus again we
realize that the theater’s museum is open and discovered by the concierge here that we are perusing
the timeline of passion plays asks us for the 3.50 euro admission. She sets up
a video about the contemporary production of the play for us. 
Though we have
time to see just minutes of it we get some sense of what this Passion Play village is about.
Though we have
time to see just minutes of it we get some sense of what this Passion Play village is about.
MONASTERY
7:30 time for dinner. Our table consists of the ladies
and us. We all order sauerbraten.
Terry says it’s a grease knuckle ? Soup. Actually menu
details “Griessnockerlsoup with Brezel” that last being a pretzel we are
instructed to dip. I notice Terry pours salt into the soup which underscores
my belief that it’s a bit bland unlike the consommé of this afternoon. We all
order Sauerbraten—braised beef with spaetzle accompanied by a cool mixed salad,
all topped off with a yummy “typical Bavarian” cream strudel with stewed
cherries. Not to mention our free glass of undistinguished red wine. 
It’s all very celebratory replete with speeches and toasts and once we’ve strolled back to our hotel a block away (past a jeweler who advertises that he buys the gold in your teeth—prompting much discussion in response to Laura’s horror. Hugs for those who are not continuing on, Shanti (who I give our blog card) and Dale—going on to London where their son lives—and Rich and who are also continuing their travels and have our card.
.
DAY 11, Sunday Oct. 22 - Embark in Vilshofen
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
 |
| THE OLYMPICS WERE A BIG DEAL IN MUNICH |
 |
| NO AUTOBAN TRUCKS ON SUNDAY--SO IT'S OVERNIGHT HOUSEKEEPING |
Listening to and seeing Dvorak performed on the Telly and
the luxury of it all—no early enforced packing and marching this morning—it’s
almost 9 am and the last vestiges of the land portion of our tour. We’ve ‘til
noon before mozying on (a word our group taught Horst and Marc days ago along
with--to their delight—its synonym “skedaddle”).
We’re down to breakfast at 10–the hope being that we can
skip lunch. The place is terrifyingly busy. So that’s what happens well after
Gate 1 tours leave for their jam-packed long-journeyed days. Marc comes by and
I ask to see a photo of his beautiful Kenyan wife. We again talk of how he’s
glad to get away from the house every once in a while which his tour job
affords him. I get him to “convince” Bob that we should try a Kenyan trip. He
also suggests a visit to Zanzibar, an hour away—with its soft-sand beaches.
Rest stop 20 minutes outside Regensberg, rows of trucks.
They’re not allowed to drive on Sunday.
Marc tells us Regensberg is a beautiful city, gathering
for Holy Roman emperors. Sudden deluge-“the angels are crying because we have to
say goodbye”.
We see folks standing in line for an old Viking ship
whose tours cost more than twice as much as ours, Gate 1’s Monarch Empress, which it
turns out is sleek and spanking new. Though our suite, one of only eight onboard, (I thought what the hell, why not) is not particularly spacious, though
presumably twice the size of the other cabins—it is lovely.
The Cruise Director: “You will find
23rd century toilet. Please do not drop anything that is not natural to your
body or toilet paper.” Of restrooms, ship has “a freepee”. “Cure for cobblestones attacking your knees: wine”. Pretty corny stuff.
 |
| OUR GROUP CHOOSES TO STICK TOGETHER |
Restaurant manager goes over to Ethel and pledges
absolute allegiance to her allergic requirements at some length. Give
Gate1 an A for that but all said the
quality of this meal was a gentleman’s C.
After dinner Terry and Ethel have an hysterical argument
about medical vs recreational marijuana. Bob and I can hardly breathe it’s so
(unintentionally) funny. Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Pass site of the new museum under construction. During
construction, Found old Roman ruins and the oldest pretzel in the world. Photo
available.
Free imperial Diet—Regensburg was then the capital of
Germany. Until 1806 (napoleonic years) then became a poor city again. WW2--port
and railway station destroyed but inner city remained. UNESCO World heritage
site.
After WW2 got a university. So of the 150,000 population, 30,000 are students.
Stone bridge in 1135–before that only wooden construction
which collapsed. 11 years to finish. As legend would have it, there was a
competition between the bridge and
cathedral builders. Bridge builder signed a pact with devil. The devil would
capture the 1st three souls on the bridge. But the bridge builder arranged that
the 1st 3 souls are 2 chickens and a dog. So devil jumped into the Danube.
Still there.
Needed passport to cross bridge into Bavaria. Painting on tallest building—David and Goliath who looks
like the Bavarian duke. David represented the merchants of Reginsburg.
The cathedral. St. Peter.
1273.took 600 years to finish. After 60 years 2/3 finished. By 1493. The
spires were added in the19th c. Different stone colors/materials. Ludwig, for
example, used cheap cement.
Fee Hatmacher shop made Johnny Depp’s mad hatter hat. Belt makers—the Blumbergs—had beautiful daughter seen by
Charles 5, depressed old man. She was pregnant. Hieronimus married Barbara who
left for Brussels. Charles captured the baby, Johannesburg—who became savior of
western world, military strategist. Renamed Don Juan de Austria. (I photo his
jaunty statue.) Barbara died a wealthy woman.
If rich say “stone rich” Showed off wealth with stone
constructed towers. (As in Italian tradition.)! Top floors of tower just for
show. (Jokes could put the name Trump on it.)
Courtyard-goods delivered, well within for fresh drinking
water, 2nd hole as latrine and garbage. People got sick—plague. So people drank
wine or beer. (In Asia drank tea—survived.)
We come to the yellow colored old town hall.
 |
| GRAFFITI CAN BE GORGEOUS |
Inside the cathedral the organ is being tuned. Wonderful
stained glass. Up into the old town hall we wander into a large room where a
German guide is opining. Later and not for the first time in our travels it is
made clear to us that we have trespassed (but you can’t undo what has occurred).
Nice stroll along the river bank to our ship emblazoned
with “Gate 1 More of the World for Less” which announces to that expanded world
that we are cheapskates. Can’t Gate 1 just stick with the “Empress Monarch”?
We’ve an hour to enjoy a glass of wine in the lounge and
then a buffet lunch but this time adjacent to our traditional table of eight we
sit with Jan and Bruce who we learn are retirees who live in Vermont and
Massachusetts (in a skiing community—they’re avid skiers). They’re genealogists
and have discovered that both of their families were on the Mayflower. I tell
them they’re engaging in incest. They are very genial but I notice we’ve asked
them many questions but they don’t seem to evince any interest in us. 
Back to our suite (for such it is) to nap and rise to
watch our vessel going through the locks. After several tries Bob is able to
explain to me what’s going on “The water’s on different levels so to avoid
going over the falls, they do it gradually.” Ya!
Cruise mgr. does a lecture of sorts. Didn’t know salary
comes from salt. Celebrate not celebate. (Of the prince bishops)
Tomorrow we’ve got a tour of Passau.
Dinner. The mango and curry salad is fabulous. The combo
works.
Conversation: VA Delay, deny and then you die. God damn
this is good! Duck. Food getting better.
Entertainment with Bavarian Hansi—does sort of a pretend
German while playing various instruments. .Tom funny as one of his volunteers.
Apparently I’m a big hit as a dancer to a Bavarian folk song and fill all with
hilarity. Feel good about that. The extra wine at dinner no doubt enhanced my
performance.
Dock this morning in 2500-year-old Passau, known for its pastel patrician houses, cafes, cobblestone lanes and riverfront promenade. Passau is a Bavarian town with a mix of Roman, Italian Baroque and Gothic architecture. Explore Passau independently in the morning and continue sailing during lunch. Relax on board this afternoon as the ship sails to Melk
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Our guide, Michael, we mistake for yesterday’s guide.
(Both cute.) I show him Andreas’ photo and he says at first glance yes. He’s a
communications student at the University of Passau, 13,000 students.
We’re still in Bavaria one of the 16 states of Germany. On the hill is Festaoperhaus, home of the province bishop—with worldly and unworldly powers. People below at town hall tried to attack unsuccessfully. Scharfrichter Haus where executioner lived. Coat of arms for Passau is wolf—Bavaria lion. Fester=Castle.
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Our guide, Michael, we mistake for yesterday’s guide.
(Both cute.) I show him Andreas’ photo and he says at first glance yes. He’s a
communications student at the University of Passau, 13,000 students.
We’re still in Bavaria one of the 16 states of Germany. On the hill is Festaoperhaus, home of the province bishop—with worldly and unworldly powers. People below at town hall tried to attack unsuccessfully. Scharfrichter Haus where executioner lived. Coat of arms for Passau is wolf—Bavaria lion. Fester=Castle.
Napoleon made the separation of church and state. Got rid of
prince bishops. The Fester afterwards used as a prison. Charles DeGaul
imprisoned here for one year. Today youth hostel and museum.
Confluence of three rivers here. Masssive floods. 2013
completely flooded. Flood markings everywhere.
Hotel Wilder Mann for celebrities in the 19th c. Largest collection of art glass in the world.
Colored cobblestones lead to galleries.
Graffiti: "stop wars" "I am scared".
Fountain of royal family of Bavaria built in 1906. 3
angels representing the 3 rivers. Onion shaped domes introduced in 19th c. No
religious significance.
1662: City burned down but cathedral still standing.
Celebrated but gunfire knocked front down. Always under construction.
Stonemaker’s markings on stones (got paid by stones). Gothic vs baroque.
Passau is a peninsula—natural fortification. 1st church
500. Rebuilt gothic 15th c. Then baroque.
Cathedral is gorgeous. Largest organ/-1000 pipes.
Blacksmiths important in Passau. Caused fires and moved
to outskirts.
The buildings lean into each other. Some arches to stabilize.
River dangerous—hence Wildemann.
400 horses left Feste weekly with salt for Prague.
Returned with grain.
1.4 million tourists each year, partly because maintained
as it was after 17th c fire. Water to right, blueish from minerals.
 |
| BAVARIAN TRADITION--WRIST WRESTLING BEFORE SEX |
Lunch starts off with a mushroom soup which is delicious. The food is
definitely in the B to B+ category now. Add a delicious ice cream dessert. Jan and
Bruce sit with us. He climbed to the castle—brave guy. They hadn’t seen St.
Paul’s Church so I showed them my photos. On our adjacent table we learn that
Maria as “Candy” had a jazz exercise segment on Good Morning Manila where David
saw her before he met her at a wedding and asked her out. (Everyone has a story.) We saw photos of her wedding. She was beautiful (and still is). At 52 or so
she’s the youngest in our group, Ethel the oldest at 82 steals Bob’s usual
first place distinction.
Relaxing in our cabin, we are aware of the lovely fall
scene as we await our turn in the next lock. . . . Oops we’re sinking. Yup
we’re in a lock.
4:30 And our team—the Hooligans—ties and wins the prize,
a bottle wine (to be shared at dinner) chocolates (to be devoured now) and
fluorescent Gate 1 tags to be affixed summarily. Ann says how many degrees do we have here since we had better have won. I admit Bob and I have six (11 Group
total) so yup lotta degrees though frankly I feel pretty stupid.
For the first time
this trip we see the complete locks operation—actually pretty fascinating, a
sort of sexual theme of repression and then relief, an explosion as the lock
opens.
I get ice and we have our usual in-suite martinis. We’re
docked at the charming but not overwhelmingly enticing town of (?) and take mutual
photos of some of our compadres out there and here. Fun. We’re having fun. And
why not?
Cocktail meeting—cruise mgr. talks of Schwartzenagger son
of Gratz. Boo. Hapsburgs always broke. Their motto—make love not war so they intermarried.
We’re now in Austria as of the last lock. We’re on our way to Melk. The
Benedictine Abbey. Library. School. Rebuilt in high baroque style of early 17th c. Overlooks Melk River. Tune into channel 20. We’ll sail along the Wachou Valley. Then town of Cremes. Then Vienna and the concert.
Benedictine Abbey. Library. School. Rebuilt in high baroque style of early 17th c. Overlooks Melk River. Tune into channel 20. We’ll sail along the Wachou Valley. Then town of Cremes. Then Vienna and the concert.
Dinner and we sit with--gasp--other passengers. Coloradans
and Floridians who also are from Binghamton, NY. Consommé soup-ok despite the
encomiums from the Binghamton lady next to Bob. Appetizer gnocchi.
Optional: Classical Viennese Concert (PM)
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
It’s Melk. Being a good boy. Exercise Class with Amir at 7:30. This time Laura joins the Chinese Lady and me.
Melk monastery. 30 monks. Monks live outside the
monastery. Have a 900 student secondary school.
Maria Theresa visited 3 times. Very impressed (with staff
of 250) remarking “I would regret not being there.”
Predecessors of Hapsburg ruled 260 years. Hapsburgs ruled
670.
St. Benedict born 5th c. “Hore” means listen! His rules.
Wanted his monks in one place. #12 tribes, apostles, monasteries. He lived as a hermit in a cave. He was very strict. They tried to poison him unsuccessfully.
Shattered glass and snake. Tombs. Relics. Beautiful tracery work on the
ceilings as we pass from room to room in the museum. (No pictures please! which
seems to be the rule in all our stops.) Rebuilt 300 years ago. Parquet Floor
relaid in 19th c.
Napoleon stayed here in early 19th c. Placed canons here in case of Austrian attack.
Gloomy room to represent onerous life in Middle Ages. Had
faith.
Baroque mirrors and gold to represent heaven on earth.
Abbot Dietmuller rebuilt this gothic abbey in baroque
style—took 35 years.
Maria Theresa’s youngest of 16 children was Marie
Antoinette, wife of Louis 16. (Off with her head!) Joseph 2 was progressive.
Reusable coffins example.
1/2 million visitors each year to Melk.
Beautiful altar paintings. For illiterate parishioners.
Painted in 1502 restored in the 1950’s.
Benedictines were here over 900 years.
We see a 300 year old iron treasure chest. 14 bolts.
Abbey has 7 courtyards. All baroque except Badenborg
Towers are not baroque. (We see a great model.) 497 rooms. Only small part is
the monk’s cloister. Guided tours in 12 languages.
Large room ceiling fresco—optical illusion of Colums.
Library is amazing. 9000 books in 15 languages. Gold plated wooden sculptures.
Inculnabula—books before 15th c. Sold their Gutenberg
bible to repair their roof.
Onboard there’s 1/2 price bloodies. Entering the Wachau
Valley. Lots of fruit trees. Very pleasant in the upper deck for viewing—and
the weather is pleasant. Many picturesque scenes, monasteries, castles, towns,
vineyards.
Pass where Richard Lionhearted was incarcerated.
Lunch is 10 different starches as usual, this time
featuring pork. Potato soup for starters and a cream dessert. We sit with 4 pleasant ladies traveling together, two from San Antonio and two from Alabama, one of
whom is having a “big” birthday. All accompanied by rather too vehement
Austrian Music.
Rest from resting and then it’s time for meringue lessons
in the lounge with Amir. (The southern ladies agree it should be polka
lessons.)
 |
| THE OTHER GATE 1 RIVER BOAT--OURS IS NICER |
As we arrive in Vienna. Coffee culture capital of the
world because Turks drank coffee. Also croissant. Christians found what the
Turks who departed left behind. We’re passing the Vienna woods. Seat of he
Hapsburgs (until WW1).
3 Danube’s in Vienna
Tonight we’ll drive to the palace where Mozart first
performed.
Tomorrow 26 Oct. is the equivalent of 4th of July.
(Bratislava and Venice closest capital cities in world.) The shops will be
closed and there are and will be too many jokes about husbands rejoicing.
Later on the bus as we wait to go to our Mozart/Strauss
concert Bob says the Aussie couple must think these Americans are strange “Two
gay men a very loud woman and one deaf mute” (Bruce--a nice man—is very quiet).
One wonders what they’d think of our other table.
Palace of Augsburg—300 years old. Mozart performed there.
(We wonder if we were here 15 years ago with our RSVP river cruise.) Concert
begins 8:15. Highlights Mozart/Strauss with dancing in traditional Viennese
costumes and opera singers. The Marriage of Figaro/ Emperor and Blue Danube
walz. Small hall only about 480 seats (and Gate 1, with its two river ships
parked side-by-side tribute to G1’s success and ubiquity disgorged 1/2 of the
hall’s concert goers). 
As we pass along the river, the buildings look like those along Central Park or Riverside Drive in New York. Heavy Traffic giving us minutes before “curtain” because tomorrow is Independence Day. We hear fireworks as proof if the impending celebration.
It’s a gorgeous although airless and overheated room for
the concert in the palace— chandeliers, bas reliefs ringing the hall. It’s not
where we heard the Mozart concert last time—more a theatre setup then and we
sat in the balcony. As to the concert
itself--easy listening as expected but a higher standard than expected. Though
the solo violin was not highest caliber, the singers were—and we all were
particularly smitten with the young baritone’s voice and looks—a pair of ballet
dancers too with not much room on the small stage, housing ten musicians, for
their well-executed lifts—all essaying various Mozartian and Hayn snippets in
the first half abetted by champagne at intermission and Strauss favorites in
the second.
Back on the bus in an hour and a half. We eschew the stew soup (really?) at the ship and instead climb unaccompanied to the upper deck for a glimpse of city lights in the night sky.
DAY 15, Thursday Oct. 26 - Vienna City Tour
Optional: Schonbrunn Palace Tour (PM)
Gutenberg morgen. Early morning for our tour of Vienna so
exercise class will need to go by the by. This morning a couple from Colorado
at our group’s “kids table”—most of our group tends to be early and get the
table for eight—ok with me. I prefer more intimacy for dining anyway.
Gary is our guide.
We start at the Danube. 2 Danube rivers because of
flooding. So an artificial island was created. Iron bridges (which we are
crossing now) were built late 19th c. 1:2 hour to the city center from this
northwestern part of Vienna.
 |
| WELLS 3RD MAN FILM SHOT HERE |
Holiday today. Mountains surrounding us—part of the
Vienna woods. Vineyards and taverns. Rural atmosphere—only wine served by the
servers. Wine served in a quarter of a liter. Spritzers are less alcohol.
Mostly white wine produced here. All the wines are young here.
Looking at modern part of the city—skyscrapers.
History. Vienna was founded by Romans who built their fortresses
along the Danube starting in 100 AD. Windfobiner-clouds blowing rain away.
Romans left around 500. Austrian monarchy most powerful in the world. Hapsburgs
ruled over 600 years.
Crossing the old Danube river over the island into the
new Danube.
Before Danube regulates in 1870’s, many tributaries
“arms”. Some lakes still extant. Transdanubia is the new area (15-20 years ago)
with skyscrapers.
Austria a monarchy until 1918. Until 1500–empire where
sun never sets. Hapsburgs enlarged the empire by intermarriage. Make love not
war.
(A lot of this guide recitation stuff is awfully familiar! Maybe it will sink in.)
Vienna is one of 5 cities where UN has headquarters—5000 workers
here. Pass the Kaiser Francis Joseph church. Pass the Ferris wheel where The
Third Man filmed.
Vienna structure. Like a
cake. In the middle is the city center.
Rings around it. 23 districts. Blue plaques indicate district’s number. Ring
road built after city walls were removed. Buildings going up after 2nd half of the 19th c. Statue of Field Marshall Rodetsky—known for Strauss’ March and Wiener
schnitzel. Passing city park with statue of Strauss playing violin. 4
Strauss’s. Johann very handsome. His manager sold black poodle curls as his
hair.
City of Music. Hapsburgs loved music. Maria had a singing
voice.
 |
| IT'S A HOLIDAY CELEBRATING THE (TINY) MILITARY |
Subway stations white walls, green roofs, green doors.
Art nouveau style 1890-1900.
Secession building—golden leaves dome—artists wanted to
be separated from traditional art. Leader Gustav Klimt. His painting sold for
140 million euros-the Woman in Hold.
Historicism style (copied styles) of most buildings here.
Ornate. Museum was stables of Hapsburgs. Volkstheater—the people’s theatre.
Meant comedies performed here.
Walking now. Maria Theresa only lady ruler of Hapsburgs. 1955 Austria to be a neutral country.
Pass soldiers and police for celebration. New baroque
style. We’re in Heroes Square. Not many heroes. Archduke Charles. The only one
to defeat Napoleon. (Then Napoleon immediately defeated him.) monuments with
horse standing on two legs—balanced. (She’s funny about Austrian military.) So
we’re at the huge palace. Every emporor had his own building.
Gabby says that there are more in the military bands than in the
military.
Sisi most beautiful empress of her time.
Stables of the Lipizzaner Horses.
Napoleon married here, 2nd marriage, to an Austrian
princess. Had his only legal son with her. Next year Napoleon was defeated so she took
her young son back to Austria.
Maria loved a masked ball so she could feel free. But
people pretended they didn’t know who she was, (play idea).
Gabi. “There’s another biker. Kill her!”
Holy Trinity column beautiful example of baroque design. To
placate Black Plague. St. Stephens Cathedral — 400 years to build 450-1550.
Highest spire of a church in Vienna.
On our own. Snow globe on crown of Vienna. St. Stevens
(gloomy gorgeous) and then St. Peters. ornate gorgeous). Wowza.
 |
| THE POINT OF IT ALL |
Of 26 Oct. after WW2 ended May 1945. Occupied. Austria was divided into 4 parts each controlled by an Allied force. Soviet Union said Austria
should not be free but accepted Austria’s neutrality. May 1955 state treaty of
neutrality signed. Last Allied soldier left Austria on the Oct. 26.
Graffiti on the walls along the canal. It’s a problem in
Vienna.
Back to Nussdorf where we are docked.
Lunch with some of our our compadres aboard. The tomato soup is excellent. “Not Campbell’s” says Bob. Lovely club sandwich, the day’s special which means we don’t need to struggle in a buffet, is suggested by the others who preceded us and the hazelnut ice cream with caramel is a delight.
On our way to Schoenbaum Palace Gaby is again our
guide. We are going to the western side
of Vienna for the summer palace of the Hapsburgs whose monarchy included many
countries. Many of these people came to Vienna. Therefore international
cuisine. Goulash from Hungary.
pastry from
Bohemia (Check. Republic);
Late 1800’s people wanted to be independent. Francis
Joseph (married to Sisi) kept this enormous empire together. His son commuted suicide
so no crown prince. France Ferdinand, cousin, was assassinated—WW1. So Charles 1 next
but weak so monarchy broke down. 60M to 6M inhabitants. All lead to Adolf
Hitler. Austria became part of the 3rd Reich. Then became free and independent—not
member of NATO but of EU.
Designer wanted to bring back color and nature to cities
again—so colorful and trees on roofs. Said straight line is godless. His
apartments and restaurant have bumpy floors. Vienna’s subway line built as a
connecting line between stations at first above street level because steam.
Saw H’s city palace this morning. The summer palace
outside city of Vienna.
The third palace built on that site. After Turks defeated
could build outside the city.
Built in 1700’s in the baroque style. Took 50 years
before became the summer palace. Maria Theresa loved it. 1500-2000 people brought with her.
Building complex with 1440 rooms. We’ll visit the
staterooms--around 20.
Named after a fountain—means beautiful fountain. Gardens
also designed in baroque style. Father away boscettos after Italian for wood.
12000 visitors a day.
Damn no “legal” pictures. The gardens are the same size as the city
center and Monaco.
Facade painted in yellow. With Maria was painted pink
blue. Later dark gray until Francis Joseph. Theatre here. Hapsburgs. Sang,
danced performed.
Hapsburgs were the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. Were elected.
Paid. This ended in 1806. Napolian took 400 paintings from Vienna. Emperor said he has
my daughter but not the crown so canceled the empire. Crown remained in Vienna
until 1940. Hitler sent the crown to Germany. GI found it.
Maris Theresa good ruler.
Edison electrified the palace.
Heavily bombed in WW2. 18th c war fresco destroyed and
redone, Ceiling frescoes.
Modeled after Louis palace in France.
She had to fight wars through most of her rule. Hated it.
Carousel room. Maria rode even though constantly pregnant.
Imperial dinner: invited guests to watch family eat and
drink.
Room with paintings of events—wedding: Maria Theresa starring.
Chinese room shows all 16 children. Today 400 members of Hapsburgs still alive.
Too crowded to be entirely enjoyable. And I suddenly have
a revulsion for all this privilege. Perhaps I’m thinking of Trump and his
gilded palace and the present and eventual consequence of his and his family’s
sense of privilege.
As we walk from the gardens Bob says “Good we didn’t bomb
it during the war” I say, “If we did we wouldn’t have to see it.” (Its really
remarkable as these imperial palaces tend to be.)
We still have plentiful vodka for our martinis.
Port talk. Join our compadres. Apparently Vienna bordered
iron curtain. Of Bratislava on foot of Carpatoan mountains. Quaint little town.
Skoda car manufactured there. Nicknamed little big city.
We start talking about religion. Jan says she doesn’t
want to confess her sins in a church.
They don’t have enough time. Ann talks of her children which leads us
into a discussion of the devastation of mental illness. Not your typical dinner
conversation but that’s fine with me as long as we are all able to plunge
together into the morass of realtalk. This
slides into our mutual—at least for some of us—horror of the political state we’re in. Sorry, I tend to lead conversations in that awkward essential direction.
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| HIGH SCHOOL FOLLIES |
And soon after we are watching a god awful utterly
sophomoric staff show—Bob recalls Junior High which leads into dancetime. This
time I participate and Maria and I do our Broadway manque steps. Despite the moves, after a strenuous while I
realize I’m outta shape and so to join Bob who has long been deep into sleep
abed.
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
At breakfast all the talk is about the tips the cruise
director expects. Much high dudgeon.
The day’s special is pancakes and my my they’re good
but—big eyes—I have an alternate breakfast platefull because it’s there.
Apple strudel demo. Dave volunteers. The trick apparently
is to roll the dough until you can read a newspaper through it. Not much
percentage in that but the strudel will benefit.
At lunch (lunch already?) Dave noting the rain says I bet
a lot of people are not going on the walking tour. Ann: “Suck it up buttercup.
You’re not going to melt.” Precious in that New Jersey accent.
Unleashed onto Bratislava, Croatia (and destined not to
find a Bratislava T-shirt for Bob’s collection) Martin is our guide. Slovakia
one of smallest in the EU, 5M people. Smaller than Nova Scotia size. 500,000
here in Bratislava. In late 19th c it was part of the Austria-Hungarian empire.
1938 Hitler. Became Nazi country up to 1945. Liberated by Soviet’s. 1989 iron
curtain collapsed became democracy.
Martin is charming, Has a PhD. An economist. (We’ve had
amazing local guides throughout.) Multilingual, as these guides embarrassingly
are, Martin expounds on some linguistic peculiarities.
“Pivot” is beer. But this is a wine country. Zmrzl is ice
cream—as an example of non-syllabic words. Slovak it turns out is close to the
Czeck language. (And other similar tidbits of info.)
Compact city. Column called Black Death column. 1/3 of
city died. Wine drinkers in countryside didn’t die. Nostravia means to your
health (but I knew that just didn’t make the plague connection.)
 |
| THE GREETER OF BRATISLAVA |
Statue of Hans Christian Anderson likely because on a
visit cleverly said he didn’t need to write a tale about Bratislava
because it’s a fairy tale city. Suck-up.
Speaks of “false friends” in language.
Largest car producing nation, such as all Porsche
Cayenne’s, Peugeot’s, Bentley’s, Why? lower wages than many countries, use the
euro, and have high productivity.
He lives in Hungary and commutes to work here, 15 miles.
 |
| CANDY MAKERS |
St martin’s Church. Maria Theresa's coronation there. “You know Mozart, the famous producer of those chocolate
bonbons.”
300 castles. Attacked by Mongolians in 13th c.
Mozart played here as a child, Franz Liszt started his
career here. 100,000 Slovakian jews died at Auschwitz. We pass the Steiner
bookstore which evokes the story of how it was confiscated from them during the
war and once they were declared no longer “economically useful” they were sent
to Auschswitz.
St. Michaels towers other 3 demolished by Maria Theresa
who was responsible for many reforms.
Black current wine. Mandela’s chocolate. Points to McDonalds : “That’s the US embassy to
Slovakia’.” Theatre. First iron curtain for safety.
On our own to further explore the inner city streets and
buy a snow globe and some candy for Corrie our aerobics instructor.
Tea. The ladies are in residence in the lounge at
teatime, piano man is playing romantic themes and there are delicious cakes
that must be consumed. Are we nuts? Bingo follows and its fun. I’m reminded of
my turns as occasional bingomeister at our resort in Palm Springs when Danny
was otherwise occupied. Ann wins the big prize—a bottle of wine which is
destined to be consumed by the group’s drinkers post-dinner. Pre-dinner Terry,
abetted by Ethel who apparently has intimate knowledge of Terry’s bio, relates
tales of her times as nurse/companion to fabulously wealthy ladies in Chicago.
Then Rudy, the cruise director, offers background for
tomorrow’s stop. Hungarians were a nomadic tribe originally. Split. Tough times.
Invaded by Ottomans. Absorbed by German nations. Then Austrian Hungarian
nations. One side Buddha, other Pest. Known for baths and paprika.
As the city of Bratislava is magical so are its images against the darkening night sky as we
depart its dock unshackled.
Should we stay for cocktail hour in the lounge? Nah.
Martinis en suite danke.
Dinner. Goat cheese terrine with bell pepper vinaigrette
(its heavenly); Cream of leek soup. Sea bass on pernod cream sauce. Just Ok.
Bob’s chicken. “So so.” Oops. He’s invoking the “banquet food” phrase to
describe our fare.
Ann in my conversation with her about deathbed wishes
says her husband wanted to be displayed at his funeral with his formal white
fireman’s hat. She tells him “I don’t want you looking like the good humor
man.”
The strudel is fabulous!!!
Great fun dancing to favorite genres of dances, Twist,
Saturday Night Fever, Macarena etc. in a contest to rank them. And then Bob,
who has not shied away from spirits this lovely evening, joins me to “blow
their minds” (Do we actually is the question) and we dance, dance dance, the
loving gay duo on display. We’ve done our bit for gay rights and our own who
the hell cares pleasure so we may happily and boozily retire this lovely night.
DAY 17, Saturday Oct. 28 - Budapest City Tour
Overnight: River Cruise
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Last day (short of the long trip home) and the weather is
just fine thank you. Only one day of some rain overall and that was yesterday
in Bratislava.
Exercise with Amir whom the other few— ladies—mercilessly flirt with, making assumptions that he’s straight. Hmm. Jury’s out.
Couple of seats available at our big table for breakfast
and since eggs Benedict is the special I am “required” to have 2 dishes.
Tour—start with the flat side in Pest, then it will be
Budda. Barbara our guide speaks almost accent-less English.
Unified city since late 1800’s. Francis Joseph couldn’t
say Pest Budda so switched.
Pass warehouse connection used in movie The Martian.
Green bridge “Liberty Bridge”. Hungary liberated by Russia after WW2. Best food
market in the world. German Christian merchants lived in Pest, rest outside
city walls.
Pest side of city younger and planned—a spiderweb.
 |
| SYNAGOGUE IN JEWISH DISTRICT |
Europe’s largest synagogue—historical Jewish
district—ghetto. St Stevens basilica—accommodates 8000. Now along Andrassy
Avenue—main drag. The opera with statues of composers. 6 theatres. Including
operetta theatre. A Hungarian specialty. Pass blue former HQ of secret police. Now
a museum—about harsh life under communism. Interrogations, torture chambers.
First metro line—first electric cars.
At symmetrical The Heroes square. Built for Exhibition.
Pass Gundel restaurant—famous. Zoo. Elephant building. Circus. Baths—very hot.
Good for joint pains. (Maybe I’ll try it.)
1956 uprising. Started as peaceful demonstration.
University students wanted free country. Secret police started shooting—a
bloodbath. Quick revolution—13 days. But still under communism until 1989. Pass
monument to people.
School until 14. Then choose specialty schools or high
school. Zero year before high school. Concentrate on a foreign language.
College 2-4 years. University 4-6 years. Contract government to students must
stay in country for 20 years after graduating. No campuses.
Hist. Jewish district. Before WW2 large Jewish community.
Now flourishing.
Largest synagogue in Europe. Two spires representing
Torah. Burial ground. Upside down menorah—weeping willow sculpture.
Hotel Astoria was nazi headquarters. Near Jewish quarter.
Blew up bridges.
Amazing views at the river.
Pass the chain bridge that we walked across last time.
Connects Buda and Pest. 2000 lights at night. Royalty died out in 1300 (1800?). Royal
palace of Buda. Nazis plundered it. Soviets completed emptying it.
 |
| TOURIST STOP |
Moving toward castle district. City within a city. Very
expensive to live here.
Cobblestones everywhere. Fragile labyrynth
system underneath, wine cellars--also escape route for royals.
Sculpture to commemorate unsucessful attempt at freedom.
Hussar in front of allegorical freedom. This castle district rebuilt 200 times.
Hand painted square and round circles, oldest building
here.
Holy trinity column in the square dates back to the
plague. Coronation church. Hand painted majoralka rooftop tiles.
Amazing views.
Free time to buy. You guessed it. A snow globe and some
T-shirt’s.
Natural border—Danube river. Discovered more than 120
thermal springs. (One for each disease is the joke.) Mongols kept burning the
Hungarians’ wooden buildings. So wooden building was banned.
Former Roman route—underneath the street.
Embankment system keeps water at bay. Gorgeous parliament builds in the
distance. Completely symmetrical. Major spires for months of year. First
elevators.
Eiffel designed the Margaret bridge. Unadorned with
statues. It was the view that counts. We cross the Danube on that bridge over
Margaret island. Wallenberg protected Jewish lives. Shoe monument next to the Parliament.
Lunch. Since the ship has moved most of our fellows can’t
get aboard as we have just in time. Thus we’ve got the dining room to ourselves. Delicious
carrot soup.
Nap. Walk. Tea. Death talk. Martinis. Grand Hotel
Budapest.
Farewell Champagne hour. Dinner. The pate is wonderful.
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| CLASSY HUNGARIAN ENTERTAINMENT ABOARD SHIP |
Meals: Breakfast
It could be worse. Our plane out of Budapest is at 10:30
so Gate 1 being overly cautious it’s bags out at 6, quite nice breakfast with
custom omelette and rainy-ish walk to the bus at 6:50. And so we depart our
lovely ship home of the past week, emblazoned as it is with the logo “More if
the world for less.” True indeed. Gate 1 does a terrific job.
Priority pass gets us into a lounge at the airport thank
goodness since we’ve got so much time to spare. Plenty of food on offer lbut
indeed that’s not our concern.
Loads of teenagers—school trip?—on this short hop
Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt. Start off in turbulence. Oh joy. But mid-flight
a snack of sunflower bread with grilled chicken and red wine helps. I think
back on our trip and decide I have tender feelings toward our little band of
fellow travelers. The camaraderie, discovery of the lives and personalities of
others also on your journey, is a big part of the Travel experience.
Adventure time. Bob says “it’s no big deal. It’s a flight
over the ocean so they’ll wait for us”. Sell me the Brooklyn bridge while you’re
intent on fantasizing damnit.
So when I purchased the flight from Budapest to Frankfort
on Lufthansa the agent said to my question if we’d have enough time to collect
our luggage and re-enter to board the Condor transatlantic, “no problem” or did
I miss the translation from the German. But . . . Of course we have to wait for
our luggage. Condor is in the other side of the airport. The agent says we
missed the plane; then realizes the clock turned an hour back today. Really!!
We are misdirected (I officially heretofore don’t like the Germans.) and have
a huge wait through security and then customs and then try to find and race to
our gate at the other end of the terminal as we hear over the loudspeakers
—come to Gate 45 (that’s us)
Immediately! Breathless. We make it. Someone is actually later than we
are. Settling into our seats as the whole plane watches, Bob who I think is
going to have a heart attack (or will it be me first) says “We had an
adventure.” Reminders of running through Tokyo airport years ago. Such fun. La!
Then now Irony! We hear the captain telling us that the airport is 1. Closed
(high winds), 2. There are 62 planes ahead of us 3. And we will be delayed an
hour and 20 minutes. I need a drink. As premium economy we’re 2 rows behind
business class and they’re getting their’s damnit. From now on it’s biz class
for us without exception. The little gift bundle of goodies on our seats are hardly enough to assuage the green eyed monster. 
And consolation prize is that entertainment is accessible except that we’ve got the only seats where the tv’s are a neck stretching (not arthritically favorable) distance above and away. Really??
Lunch—which really isn’t served until 4:30 with all the
mishigos—is actually pretty good. As Many mini-courses as can be fitted onto a
12” x 12” tray. Red wine —one stupid glass followed by cognac.
Movie 1: "Table 19" about a table of misfits at a wedding,
sappy, sort of predictable—focus on girlfriend of bride who is shunted off to
pariah table because she broke off with bride’s brother. But she’s pregnant
with his kid and . . . At times I thought it was sort of existential— No exit;
hell is other people sort of material. But nooo. Stars Anna Kendrick. Wasting
Lisa Kudrow and the kid from Hotel Budapest.
Insane that a curtain is around the seats in front of us
(1st row of the premium economy). I suspect it’s for the staff which is why our
tv’s are above the curtain line. Seating reviews didn’t tell me that.
Movie 2: The
Notebook. 2004. Ryan Gosling, Rachel McAdams, Gena Rowlands, James Garner, etc.
Great cast. Based on the novel by Nicolas Sparks. Pulls out all the stops.
Young love, old love. Passion. Alzheimers. Who will Ally choose. The poor boy her
mother objects to or the nice rich 27 boy who meets
the test.
the test.
Meanwhile I see Bob watching another Ryan Gosling film,
one he acknowledges we’ve seen before, “Love Actually”. We’ve 5 hours to go—I
may get to see it.
Well let’s try King Arthur Legend of the Sword for a
change of pace: Action Adventure with Charlie Hunnan (Do we know him?) and Jude
Law.
 |
A WEEPY TO PASS THE HOURS  |
Bob watches the mother-daughter on an adventure Amy
Shumer/Goldie Hawn movie I caught on our flight out—the movie menu is the same.
Bob thinks it’s good airplane fare. And notes that of the two Ryan Gosling
films, Goslings body has gotten better.
When Bob orders white wine with breakfast I remark that
it’s not appropriate. Fraulein attendant corrects me that “Ziz is not
breakfast” so I also order white wine.
It’s clear Bob is not interested in chatting as we sit on
the tarmac. He says he’s watching for a parking space. “I didn’t know you were
into this telekinesis thing. That’s exciting.” Will we miss our connection to
San Diego? The anxiety is not nice at all.
It turns out with the waiting for luggage and re-entering
through customs we miss our Alaska 7:15 flight to San Diego and visions of an
overnight in Seattle flash. Long lines for a reason-ticketing—sweating whether
we’ll get on the 9:15. We do but the lines are very long through security.
And then once aboard we’re nodding off while it’s another
hour plus before the captain boards from another flight; we applaud him.
Passengers report on the Dodger game. And then become
obstreperous. Bob: This is the worst travel day.” Hungary where we started out
as Siri reports 24 hours ago—and not home yet.
Fire breathing dragon ahead of us. Hope we don’t snore that loudly during the fitful naps.
And at 1 am we land.
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| MAIL PILES AWAIT. WE'RE HOME! |
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