INDIA, DELHI, BHATAN TRIP
10/11-11/7/2018
THE BIG PICTURE
Apologies.
Readers and Reuel will not experience the usual detailed notes and commentary
describing this extraordinary trip. One day’s scribbling the gods ,watching from
their internet cloud, snatched. Others found the graduate student spirit of note
taking seriously dissipated. Is it this new reliance on the immediacy of
experience that prevailed? Nah. I’m getting older. And that as it turns out is
the theme for Bob and Reuel's trip. Yet there are the pics to remind us of a unique trip.
THURSDAY, FRIDAY
OCT 11 and 12.
DAY 1, Friday - Depart for India
DAY 2, Saturday - Arrive in New Delhi Welcome to India! Arrive in the energetic capital city of New Delhi; meet your representative and transfer to the hotel. Time to rest and relax after your journey and acclimate to the new time zone
Overnight: New Delhi
DAY 1, Friday - Depart for India
Overnight: New Delhi
Departing for India, Nepal, and Bhutan. I’m looking forward to the bar onboard Emirates. I also enjoy the decades old acetaminophen tablet that I took earlier. It may not do much for my troublesome acting up chronic neck pain but it does mitigate the stress of navigating airports even this hometown Alaska Air ratty one--minus lounge(!).
First class,
first row (first stop San Francisco). We get to watch ourselves in the plexiglass
facing us—two fat (though diet thin) cats seated sumptuously. Imagine 6 weeks
later and I’ve lost 20 pounds. 148! Low carb does it. Nutrisystem provided
similar results but was a pain in the ass. For now I’ll have a Bloody Mary
thank you. Has all the proper nutrients. So why not another to double the benefits?
I endured a long
life without taking pictures of all I experienced every 7 minute. What?
I’ve decided
that large quantities of alcohol ameliorates my condition/-the neck thing. So I
self prescribe. The Emirates lounge is amazing. So genteelly elegant. Booze and
food to die. Well, to live? Interesting, as Anglos we’re a rarity—an "only"—in
this rarified place. However, a tiny sandwich and some cheese accompanying the
Chardonnay is all that’s required. We’ll meet it on the way back fat, fat,
fatter,
OMG . Fabulosity
on the Emirates taking us 16 hours plus to Dubai. Our pods. And the attention
visited on us.Champagne of course. The attendants speak English scarily
well. Reason why Emirates is considered
tops in taps.
We get a
mattress. Most comfortable. If you are undergoing 26 hours of travel hell. Kill me now if I don’t buy biz class
ever. Emirates. Rah. Rah. Nat King Cole. From my kidship. Oxtail—martini—in my pod. Bob has a chard in
his. Cole so soft and sweet unobjectionable as a black man.š Who knew in those days
what was going with on.
Unforgettable. “Like a song that clings to me.”
Silverware
almost too heavy to lift. Nice glass of Chardonnay. And Doris Day. My youthful
sweetheart. And now that we’re old, she still is. Now they’re Pushing a French
red. Why not.
My trout
appetizer is wonderful.
I arise in the middle of the night. Middle of
the afternoon in Delhi. My bed is wonderful, everything is on the rich people’s
plane. Even the bathroom with its burld wood lavatory past the bar where Arab
type guys sitting on a divan are loudly conversing. I don’t remember how long I got to sleep. But that I did sleep is a miracle.
Breakfast—steak
and eggs. With Veuve Cliqout champagne of course. Movie function doesn’t work.
Once inside the
spectacular Dubai lounge, Samway from Nigeria offers to shine my crappy shoes.
He is on a work visa (renews every two years) and wants to go to America or
Canada. I say go to Canada. He says he hears that a lot. “Is it because of your
president?” “Probably.” Here it is very expensive and unlike America if he
marries and has citizenship his child would still be Nigerian and not have
citizenship. Everything is taxed. If you get a jaywalking ticket, that is
taxed. Shine $10 he says. Tip $5.
F
inal lap is
between Dubai and Delhi. 3 hrs. 15 minutes.
Captain (American or Canadian accent) says 2 hrs. 30. Narrower pods but
comfortable.
inal lap is
between Dubai and Delhi. 3 hrs. 15 minutes.
Captain (American or Canadian accent) says 2 hrs. 30. Narrower pods but
comfortable.
Champs upon
being seated. Watching “The Americans” which I don’t see at home. Confusing. I
guess America is in the hands of communists c. 70’s. ? Reagan era. Espionage, secrecy.
Couples are driven apart because of it. Lives, freedoms at stake. Very well
acted, especially Kerry Russell.
I’m bad. I have
the dinner and the chocolates. Sucker for chocolates. Self-hate.
SATURDAY OCT 13.
DELHI
SATURDAY OCT 13.
It takes us
about an hour after landing in New Delhi to get greeted by our complimentary Emerites
drivers—plural because one drives the luggage in a van, the other drives us in
a classy car. At the hotel however at 3:45 the clerk tells us we owe an extra
night, $109, because checking is 2 pm. We’re tired. I say we’ll sleep in the
lobby floor. He has no sense of humor. Of our room which has a view of the
emergency entrance of holy angels hospital.Bob says it has a charming old world
pensione sort of feel about it, maybe. Lights out and it’s almost 5am. I don’t
understand the itinerary.
Up at 7. At
least Reuel is. Your body is supposed to acclimate to the country’s clock.
We’ll see.
We rummage
around our room which verges on charm but doesn’t quite achieve it. The safe
isn’t working nor does the tv. A phalanx of maintenance people arrive, consult.
The 2 English channels are found and a new safe is promised and eventually
found. A hot shower is a marvelous thing after hundreds of hours traveling.
In the dining
hall, for such it is—guarded over by two huge harlequin statues—the food is
quite good. Spicy tidbits to accompany our scrambled eggs. We have a far corner
table; the chairs are plush and comfortable so we don’t mind sitting,
resting—the days mandate—and speculating about the diners. Are any our Gate 1
traveling companions, is that Anglo couple married, are they doing business
with the voluble Indian man at their table! And so on.
We make
reservations for a massage at 2 pm. But when the giant gym director guy tells
us tips are preferred in cash we venture out to the “market” across the road,
which it turns out requires us to duck the honking automotive tuk tuks and find an atm with help
of some soldiers but which yields nothing. We’re the only non-Indians we see in
the crowded byways and I’m a bit abashed to say I feel uneasy. So once back the
lobby manager tells us a credit card
will do.
Which it turns
out works very well. We’re both happy with our 60 minute massages in the well equipped
salon. Attendants are in an abundance to offer us towels as we shower and take
advantage of the sauna and whirlpool—yes got Bob to try it—though bubbles
aplenty it’s bathtub warm.
Through the
lobby with my flip flops (there doesn’t seem to be any other way to get to the
junior Olympic sized pool where I do multiple laps). Bob finds a chair by the
pool later and it’s not too long before cocktail hour.
Tired of
International CNN and its obsession with Africa I find a Bollywood movie and
its a hoot. Large corps of dancers in colorful costumes heads bobbing, legs
akimbo dancing in Speed motion. Beautiful veiled maidens protected by fierce
bearded warrior heroes. The genre is amazing. The tried and true formula works.
And you don’t need to know Hindi to know what ‘s going on.
Nighty night.
SUNDAY OCT 14
 Overnight: New Delhi Overnight: New Delhi Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner |
Davinda Singh. As usual great personality.
3 parts of Delhi.
New Felhi. Old Delhi within old wall. British New D. 1066 city started.
British stayed
in India over 300 years. 1611-1911. That year founded New Delhi. Lucky that
it’s Sunday because terrible traffic jams. Other days.9810156404.
Were now in British
area. Mahirajah’s great king had railway cars. Embassy Row impressive. High
commission is part of commonwealth. Embassy not.
Mansions for
members of parliament. President no power. Prime minister has power. Ministry
of Defense. Architect Lutien. Red sandstone buildings.
Pass India gate.
Sikhs new
religion started 1634. First a movement to not have tax. 1699 religion. 1.
Never cut hair. 2. Keep comb in hair. 3. Wear bangles. 4. Wear shorts. 5. Keep
dagger. 6Turban symbol of respect.
Temple has a
community kitchen. one temple can even feed 100,000 people.
Ghandi died at
5:17
79 years old
died. 79.2 percent Hindus. Muslims 14%. Sikhs 2%. 5000 Jews. Bahais.
Ghandi Ƨvv
wanted India to be secular.
Ppl unhappy with
secularism shot him. M. At 13.
Next is national
museum. India one of oldest civilizations in world. Indus Valley.
Statue of male
organ in female’s. For fertility pour milk. Shivlingum. Lots of Ganeshes, the
main elephant god, and statuary we get to examine as our earphones describe
them.
Lunch is in a
local restaurant. I’m coming to the conclusion that I don’t much like Indian
food.
Earlier we had a
tuk tuk ride which was fun, it being a little open car essentially but now the
harrowing yet fascinating rickshaw ride through the markets of Delhi. We ride in a little vulnerable open carriage propelled by a bicycle and its
intrepid driver. Watch your head and your arms if you like them.
Back to the
mosque, almost all open air for prayer, where we at least have socks on to
tread unsuccessfully over pidgeon poop and imperfections in the pavement.
A little nap time
at the hotel before our orientation session where when we introduce ourselves
Bob reveals we’ve been together 445 years. Good for him. Davinder takes us
through the usual paces.
The
MONDAY OCT 15
Optional: Mohabbat-e-Taj Show (PM)
Overnight: Agra
Muslims came to India and looted temples not oalaces Pp in India are root oriented—never move—unlike America.? The market we drove through not poor—have lived there 100’s of years.
Today he’ll talk
about dots and cows.
5 religions.
When British left in 49, population less than a million. But today size of
Delhi 1000 square miles. Lots of black money. Today demonetization. Old money
pworthless. Need toaccalldeposits,taxed40%.l
Delhi no
skyscraper unlike Mumbai.
Allows us
Next stop Kutup
min. The tower fell down twice after
horrible trafficked highway fast going on a little used freeway. Pass huge
horse racing track-/pride of India.
We stop for
lunch. Nice conversation with the English couple. Bob didn’t find his
vegetarian meal as spicy as I did but mixing yogurt helps. Slightly afterward
I’m feeling a little queasy from it.
Dots. 6
categories. M
Kk has klColored
fashion statement forehead. Hairline married. Suhaag, must be orange or red. Dot
means prayed. V or u shaped dot means worship Vishnu’s. Line across it means
follows Shiwa. Everybody has lotus in the body.
MPs
Vasco di Gamma
came to India in 1498. Looking for a spice route.
Davinders
rhetorical style is excited.
The food and
Little Taj Mahal
built to be a heaven eden on earth. 4
gates welcoming people from alli corners
 |
Bathing in the streets |
 |
A WEDDING HORSE AND RIDER |
Then there’s the
inevitable cultural theatre piece—story of the Taj Mahal love affair.
So of course
we buy a carpet for the Opium Den. $340. Camel’s Wool. Bš³️šš§š«š§š«din
e I lost my credit cards this morning (!) , we use Bobs Amex.
Observatory. 1
and quarter brain man. Mughal said. Sun dial.
TUESDAY OCT 16.
Overnight: Agra
 |
| SACRED COW EATING GARBAGE |
Taj means strong Mahal means palace. It’s a mausoleum. M. 18 years. Had 14 children. 6 survived.Her wishes: don’t get remarried. he went into mourning for one year. Found architect in Iran. 22 years to build. 17th c. 83.5 meters tall. Marble and sandstone not local. Used pulleys. Millions of semiprecious stones inlaid. Chisel and thumb to engrave.
4 sons. 3rd son
put father in prison. Killed brothers. Grave in middle queen. To side king. By
his death technology improved Other side of TM is a river. Then 10 million
rubies. Today 6 billion dollars.
Allyssa insists
on taking our photos everywhere. She’s a hoot and it’s nice to have ones
personal photographer. Inside we marvel at the carvings in India never invaded anyone. Never slaves.
 |
| CAMPY SPECTACLE |
Marble co.
Collective. Henna. Paste. Alysa buys an elephant. 1/2 price.
Fort. 4 gates.
Looks at a mosque.
Hall of public
to receive complaints. Harem.
2 kinds of
concubines. Out and in. Bodyguards born eunuchs. Underground for safety of
royal family. Also gallows.
250 concubines
and 25 wives. 5000 women helpers.
After king dies
either son gives pensions; rich guys keep them. Wife rights; concubines none.
Old kings
quarters. Concubines market in the green. Women shopkeepers. J Bathrobe kerfuffle, Swim, cocktails.
6:30 on the road
to home dinner at the home of Manisha, sister of a gate 1 employee more
We get to sit up
front—amazing perspective of the traffic, the end of the 7 day festival, the
occasional water buffalo. At end of festival they burn the demons. My ch light
and excitement along the road. Clusters worshipping the goddesses.
Much fun with
turbine for us guys—the ladies in their saris dancing.
Thali main
course of different items.curry. Mixed veg, potato, chickpeas, puri,
Overnight: Jaipur
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Jaipur
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
FRIDAY OCT 19.
Overnight: Samode
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
We pass an
effigy being readied before it’s burned for the Bussara festival.
Pass a bus of schoolgirls.
All children must wear uniforms.
I like the ypung
man on his scooter smiling and given me the high sign. I don’t know why I’m
feeling emotional.his friend on the back seat.”
Nearing Samode
bumpy road-.
After bumpy cart
ride nasty gooseberry apple and pleasant
pAssam tea (chai) At fabulous hotel greeted by snake charmer etc. women making
bread and yoghurt.
ET
For dinner we
head to the family home that owns the hotel. Delhi effigies 300 feet tall.83%
celebrate these holidays.
I Ask after
procession (great opportunity) we see: why are these people smiling; D
says money doesn’t bring happiness. They
are happy. Saying: eat now, trust god tomorrow.
SATURDAY OCT 20.
DAY 9, Saturday - Jeep Safari, Travel to New Delhi
Morning departure from Samode to New Delhi. On the way, stop for a village jeep safari to have a glimpse of the village life followed by lunch at a hotel. Afterwards, travel to New Delhi. Upon arrival, check into the hotel. Say goodbye to your India Tour Manager tonight as you prepare to embark on your next adventure
Overnight: New Delhi
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Overnight: New Delhi
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Finally take 14 year old cipro for constantly bad tummy during trip Swim in beautiful cold—invigorating-pool
Caste system
Where u come from. Ancestors profession Ex Patel
businessmen were barbers Started 1500 bc Priests/-Brahman, etc.
Professions-parts
of the god
Head-priests;
shoulder-soldier; thigh-banker 4th class-untouchables—not allowed civil rights.
Inferior
professions: cleaners, etc.
Ghandi called
them children of god
Last 20 years—quotas—affirmative
action Caste system what you were not are Can’t change last name
His: arora
5000 subcastes
based on profession
Caste system
important in two places:
Married
; jobs
Can check
credentials. What village come
Along highway
In India everybody
superstitious. Chile’s so demon won’t enter your house. Black also. Horseshoe
from a black horse. Hang old shoes (to kick evil).
Our driver burns
incensec in bus every morning.
SUNDAY OCT 21.
DAY 10, Sunday - Arrival in Kathmandu, Nepal
This morning, meet the representative who will transfer you to the airport for your flight from Delhi to Kathmandu, "The Roof of the World," in the shadow of the Himalayas. You'll be warmly welcomed and greeted with a traditional flower garland. Time to rest before this afternoon's orientation meeting with your new Tour Manager, describing the sensational experiences that await you in Nepal
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast
Much bustle. In
bags. Outta bags. The breakfast is actually good at this super modernNovatel.
Just to keep track of all our things. Ai yai.
With little time
to spare, our priority pass gets us into the lounge-/a couple drinks. Most of
our compadres have the same idea/but stock up on lunch. A shared tiny sandwich
will do for us. Lines and waiting although we’re expedited and all this for the
hour and ten minute flight to Kathmandu.
Anup is our
guide waiting for us after the ideal of immigration. Holiday continues in
Nepal. Schools will be closed. 25 days. Then festival of light. Kathmandu 2.5
million. Everyone wants a blessing of red l mark and flower. 1/2 population
moves out for the festival.
Visa process slow because of the festival.
Mgr. worked 10 years. 5 with G1. He freelances. Math degrees. Teaches.
93rd largest
country. Sandwiched between China and India. Never been colonized. Has most of
largest mountains in world. Therefore natural barriers. Kathmandu hub of
culture. Palaces, stupas (Buddhists), temples. Traffic. But 1/2 have left now.
Flying to
Chitwan. Need cash. Outside national
park. Everest tomorrow. 20 minute flight. 15 to Pokura. (for trekking.)
114.68 in hotel.
$80 per person. (Keep rubies for Bhutan.)
Drinks in the
bar. They’re thrown by my request for Grey Goose in martini form and charge
accordingly.
Room service
yields not spectacular non-veg club and ham and cheese sandwiches with a large
bottle of beer to share.
MONDAY OCT 22.
Optional: Mount Everest Flightseeing (AM)
Overnight: Kathmandu
Not much sleep. We assemble at 5:45 for our Himalayas flight. We are warned there will be waiting, at first to determine if weather will permit us to fly at all. Domestic terminal of the airport is indeed ratty. My research shows the international from whichq we’ll leave for the US is little better
Scramble to see
sunrise. Terry’s big camera captures the beautiful orb mine is a dot above a
bus.
On the plane I’m
behind the propeller. However the flight attendant shows me my photo of Everest
the pyramid one. Don’t know if I can pick it out of a Lineup.
Breakfast.
Minimal test.
On our way to the
stupa on the hill. Domed structure can’t enter vs temple which. An enter. Today
start with oldest and end with biggest.
A 7.8 magnitude
earthquake hit Nepal in 2015. Old buildings damaged. 28 million in country. 4
million in Kathmandu. Occurred on a Saturday so less. Cost 8 billion. But
international concern about corruption. Very fragile. Earthquakes created the
mountains.
Concerned with
life rather than buildings.
Rebuilding world
heritage sites with IS and Chinese $.
Facial features
mostly Mongole.
Take bus to
stupa.
2500 years old.
Nepalese cremate bodies. Structure of stupa changes with each country. The eyes
are particular to Nepal. Dome represents living world. 4 sides are the truths discovers 8 ways out
of suffering. Gods watching. Always rotating in the wheels of life. 13 states
to enlightenment. To get out of suffering finally.
Ring bell in
temple so god will know you are asking for a wish.
Army voluntary.
19000. 80,000 police. 30,000 army police.
US returning
stolen statues. Not possible from private collectors.
Education not
mandated. 68% literacy. Target 100%
Required for
fathers to give their property to their sons.
Same longitude as
Florida but cool morning evening because of Himalayas.
Dubai
Squate.kingd lived until 1960. Women are rulers here. President now.
Khumari culture.
Honor as a living Hindu god. More than 300 years. Symbol of Buddhist/Hindu
harmony. Choose girl from Buddhist family. Astrological alignment. Certain
attributes. At end of festival sacrifice 100 water buffalo. Consumed as gift to
army.
Expressions of
yes and no. Shake head laterally. Before sacrifice spray animals with water for
approval.&
Temple.
No monarchy left
in Nepal after in 2001 royal family assassinated.0
Reason drive on
left. On horse and right hand for sword.
Temple pretty
much destroyed. Got their work cut out for themselves.@
Rickety rickshaw
ride through market.
Low battery and
we’ve miles to go. Frat.
They don’t kill
cows or eat beef. "Honored as a mother but we eat as a steak."
‘5 days of the
festival. Thanks for Dog, cow, Sšdance. Or I think that's
what it is.
TUES OCT 23
DAY 12, Tuesday - Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath, Mt. Everest Mountaineer
An excursion takes you this morning to the medieval city of Bhaktapur, called the "City of Devotees," a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lined with palaces, temples, statues and squares connected by a maze of pedestrianized streets. The 14th century Dattatreya Temple and the world famous Peacock Window at Tachapal keep visitors spellbound. Marvel at the intricately carved deities of the richly molded Golden Gate and enter the Palace of Fifty-Five Windows with its exquisite wood carvings. See the Lion's Gate with its guarding statues, Nyatapola, the five-storied temple in Taumadhi Square and the astonishing Bhairab Temple, dedicated to Lord Buddha.
Then, you visit the Pottery Center where you watch a demonstration of this fine craft by skilled potters. After a village inspired lunch, you embark upon a journey to the World Heritage Site of Pashupatinath, one of the most sacred Hindu shrines in the world. On the banks of the holy Bagmati River, this temple is renowned for its beautiful architecture along with its cremation platforms spread along the river. You’ll see throngs of devotees meditating and praying on the steps throughout this sacred temple. At dinner tonight, an evening lecture and one-to-one conversation with a Nepalese woman mountaineer who has climbed Mt Everest -- you'll be inspired by her determination and courage
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
DAY 12, Tuesday - Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath, Mt. Everest Mountaineer
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Out at 9 after pleasant breakfast conversation with Alisa.
Languages. N speak 4 languages. Nepalese, local
language, Hindi, English. Can’t get lost here unlike Thailand.
Few N movies, mostly
Indian Bollywood.
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
THURSDAY
Overnight: Chitwan
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Just a 35 minute flight to Chitwan. App
Cute flight from K to Chitwan. Known for its tigerslllll heretigers, black bears, leopards. Tiger, bison
Child marriage. His grandma was 7. Grandpa 11. People preferred to have sons.
Now laws. Both must be 18. Option for the man. But can’t say no.caste system.
He had affair with girl abroad out of caste and older. Did not want to run away.
Elephants-gentle giant
Crops. Rice—
Rb
2 types on Bletchley macock and grey landor
Photo of baby cow 2 1/2 years old. With mother 4 years. Male and feminale fight before mating. Female tired then copulate. Live 50 years. Eat aquatic plants. Rino dung is dark. Tail 1 1/2 foot tail. Hiding. 605 rhinos in Chitwan park. One species just extinguished. Killed for horn—aphrodisiac.
23 crocodile species in world. This one is endangered.
Fasten Your seat belts were in for a bumpy ride.
Peacock and owl sightings. As to elephants. See footprints—dung certainly—and a couple being ridden.
Lovely as we approach evening. Full moon too.
Time for a cocktail en suite before the naturalist’s slide show. This is all pretty neat. The volatile tour stock is rising today. Still . . .
Battling a cold today. Not sure there’s enough meds to combat it.
INisel is our guide .
Lecture and slide show.
Chitwan
means heart of the jungle.full of wildlife. One of the top ten hunting grounds in Asia. Prime Ministers (the Rama’s) ruledš±140
Years. 1911 kingGeorge killed 49 tigers here, 18 rinos. Summer no hunting. The Rama’s finished in 1950. In 1959 Tana fell from elephant saved and said no more killing. 1973 granted. 1984 UNESCO. 950 square km.
Sal forest—tall trees. Riverine forest. Grassland and pine forest. Has elephant grass.
Crocodile marsh muggers and gharial. Nepal very rich biodiversity countries.
India 22 times bigger than Nepal but fewer species.
Bison also endangered.
Starlings
clustered in trees.
Nest of the scales breasted munier.
Breakfast
Open truck:
photo of kinghfisher far away.
Birds arise in
morning singing and dancing. Unlike us. Small birds small intestines, mouth
Photo of white throated kingfisher.
Cheetahs and leoooards very fast. L succo
likiller. Kamel head guide.
They tAlkof
yetis. I tell a yeta a joke.
Elephant grass
used to build walls and roofs of houses,
3 armies in
Nepal, British. Indian, regular army. Use elephants to patrol at night.
Male. Elephants
fight before sex. Then 1 minute. To mate. Then calm. 22 months pregnancy ,
sleep3 hours standing up.
We wait for
rhinos—no show. Vultures o verhead. Uh oh.
Pass another
truck. Bob: white people waving at brown people.
Shortlegged red
deer dSrting through the brush.
Photo of tiger print.
The. Of bison Killy by a tiger.
Restroom in the
bush.
NaianaripI
river. F rom 9 different rivers. Largest crocodile in world. Keeps growing 60
years. Only after 29 years can recognize sexuality.
Doesn’t need to
eat in winter. 4 chamber heart. 19 t imes rarer than rhino.
We pass Siberian
ducks/-mate for life. Love ducks.
Vegetarian. Jamel takes a photo for me in flight.
2 tribes
permitted to fish.
Park open one
week March for locals to gather grass
for their roofs.
Yes we have no
pirrhannas we ha e no . . .
Hot in the life
jackets.
Army will shoot
anyone seen in park after dark. Pass
black ibis. Distance. The
Tiger mating.
She kills meat to lure him. Copulate /2 times scayfot 3 days.iuiiikiiii
SEe.
S?sxe?:.?|**
We see Fresh
male tiger prints on sandy bank after disembarking. Guide calculates age height
gender.
This river 2nd
largest in country.
This park
founded 1973.
As we
eat-/delicious ethnic lunch realize the benches we sit o are from the boat we
were on
Where lionmo
tiger and Bice Versace.
Ox ride to Pharo
village. 100 ethnic types. Unsolved history. Here since 13th c. Hindus.
The chip of the
house laugh with delight when we show them the photos were taking.
Malaria
eradicated 1954. DDT poison. Before that people afraid to come here.
Festivals—freedom—sleeping
in the road.
Add to the roof
every year. Mostly women and older men in the villages. The young men working
elsewhere.
2 houses. 1
kitchen. Other LT.
Chile garden.
Love spices. Love to drink. Raxcine.
Bartering
system. Neighborliness. “They don’t really care about the money.”
Lung
problems—life span down. Now bio gas system. A success. Collect dung and water—
mix-/ produces methane gas.also good fertilizer. Only initial cost, then
lifetime.
Tharu. cultural
dances. 123 dialed in this country. Eat fish and spicy food. Alcohol was
immunity.
Fighting Fance.
Teenagers getting aggressive with bamboo sticks.
Dum Foo. 80% of pp
celebrate festivals as Hindus. Holiday teenagers can choose life partners.
Dancers 14-24.
Tak dance. Pharo
people 17 different crops. Krishna.
Love dance.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 25.
DAY 15, Friday - Pokhara's Natural Wonders
Depart the National Park and transfer to the Bharatpur Airport for your flight to Pokhara, the second largest city of Nepal. Arrive in scenic Pokhara, home to three of the highest mountains in the world. Lunch at the hotel. Afternoon tour of some of the Pokhara Valley's natural wonders including cascading Devi's Falls, (Hell's Falls) which drops out of sight and is hidden in an underground gorge and the Seti Gandaki River, that flows throughout the city. Visit Gorkha Memorial Museum before continuing to the diverse Old Bazaar with its ethnic traders and stalls selling everything from edibles to gold -- it's definitely an interesting place to stroll. Here you also see the white domed Bindhyabasini Mandir, one of Pokhara's most important shrines, dedicated to the Goddess Bhagwati. The rest of the day is at leisure in Pokhara. Dinner is on your own
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Much distressed
email to financial planner; we’re being dunned with potential fees for extra
lawyerly and appraiser strategies in our efforts to unburden ourselves of our
property. Set us free!
$10 each to the
naturalists who were very good.
Bus over bumpy
roads on the way to the airport. At least we’ll be flying to Nepal’s 2nd
largest city.
Ed system.
Public (1-12 free) $30-40 per year fees and private expensive $3-400 per month
up to international standards, in Kathmandu schools run by embassies cater to
expats. Medical training costs 60k per year. Dearth of doctors in villages. Now
if 2 years in village can get scholarship for 3 year specialty study. Prefer US
for PhD study. In Himalayas parents don’t want to send cchildren to schools.
Use them as laborers. Now free and lunch provided and if 100% attendance on
month, get 1 kg of butter. Target 100% literacy by 2030. Now literacy classes
for old people in the evening.
Uniforms are
required so no comparison of financial condition. Readying for the shortest
flight in history.
_ Q
Airport takes
usbackyo the beginnings of modern flight without the modern. I’ve got no hand
carry so the inspector (they don’t have X-ray machines here of course) doesn’t need to feel me up alas.
Pokhara
Less populated
than Kathmandu, smaller valley. Heading to Davies Fall. (Named after a woman w
go fell in.) Then hotel.
We’ve been
having gorgeous weather throughput the tour; this day no exception.
A spurs range eastern
Nepal. Himalayas western. Anipirna range 1-4. Fishtail tallest. To right of
fishtail Annipurna 3 in shape of elephant.
By looking at
faces can tell what region. Higher up in mountains more Mongolian although more
intermarriage now.m
Tight side best
restaurants. Drink by lakeside. 3:30 sightseeing. CrecA
Buffet. In
restaurant Anup tells us that no one is permitted to climb Fishtail.
‘
Unobtrusive room
with Ute balcony. After a rest heading towards the Ghorka museum. 1814 war with
British— impossible war but British amazed by Ghurkas, made to join British
army. Nepal only country where can serve in British army. Story of Ghurka alone
on train saved Indian girls. Using the cookery, curved knife.
200 selected for
British army—even women.
India still
angry for 90 years with Gurkhas for helping British against them.
“If a man says
he’s not afraid of dying he’s either lying
or he’s a Gurkha.” Said by a British officer.
Discover little
Philopena Alisa was a captain in the army—as a nurse practitioner. All
interesting people on the tour. Pp
4:45 wake up
5:15 to go for sunrise. 40-45 degrees.p
Phali nepalfood
Busy bee crowded
Boomerang-slow
but atmosphere
SAT OCTOBER 26.
DAY 16, Saturday - Pokhara and the Annapurna Mountains
Early morning hike to the viewpoint at the Peace Pagoda; see the unforgettable sunrise over the mountain peaks. The Annapurna mountain range dominates your northern view while the sweeping expanse of the Pokhara Valley looms over the south and east. This is a not-to-be-missed experience! Return to the hotel for breakfast, followed by a visit to the International Mountain Museum. View the many exhibits focused on technique, equipment, and materials for hiking, of great interest in a country that is dominated by hikers and trekkers. The museum is in a perfect location, surrounded by the stunning Annapurna mountain range -- a favorite place for adventurers. Afterward, lunch together at a local restaurant in Pokhara. This evening, you're invited to a local family's home for dinner. There will be lots of opportunities to share great stories, local legends and delicious home cooked food
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Pokhara
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Spectacular sunrise
views.
In the mountain
museum. Comparisons between Nepal and Taiwan (which is not acknowledged as a
country here).
Film. Everest.
1952–Hillary. Excellent.
Anup explains
to me that the Himalayas stretch 1200
miles through several countries, China, India, Tibet and Nepal which has about
1/3 and 8 of the 14 highest peaks.
Annapurna which is behind it is part of the range.
Beautiful boy
assistant is Sasin.
Stop toook at
old houses. 150 years old. Living costs in Pokhara higher than Kathmandu.
Haneebar—danisbad=thanks
Home a
At lunch
overlooking the lake—mountains of course in the distance. We are alone at our
table so Anup joins us. I begin pelting him with questions, such as, what is
gay life like. He says there’s an association called Blue Diamond for gays.
Growing acceptance especially now for transgenders. (Our visa form had a box
for “other”.
What I asked how
would a father respond to a son coming out. He says there’s still that
traditional sensibility—son must assume property etc. younger generation is
more accepting.
Home dinner ina
Tibetan refugee camp. Tibetan family. Arrived -1959. Son’s wife recently died
of cancer. Young daughter. Father trekking guide. Mother made carpets. Jewelry
shop on motorcycle. Sold souvenirs. 30 years now. 500 people in their
community. Work tourism.also commercial moth to preserve culture. Verdict:
these folks are so enterprising. 6 million Tibetans. 20,000 Tibetans in Nepal.
Have Tibetan refugee card which allows them to travel. Nepal can’t recognize
Tibet or Taiwan.
Nepal has a bad
relationship with India. Modi wants to improve relations.
3rd king father
of mode Bhutan. Education, . Died at 44. Son 17. Visionary king. Started Gross
National Happiness. Present king. People’s king.
B stupa square. Nap stup round with eye.
Tibetan stupa.
Turn wheels
Buddha made in
China. Total cost for project 100 M. Buddha 3rd eye diamond 7 M. 3rd eye too
see yourself.
The money came from
sponsors, mainly Singapore. Also China etc.
Health care,
education is free here.
Indigenous
hospital mostly old people.
10% business tax
5% income tax. Pension s.0
Cordysep Found
in high land above 12000 feet. Make more money than people lower down.
Practice
traditional medicine at the indigenous hospital. Belief people have that their
medicines will cure all over time. Herbs collected from high mountains.
Anger, desire,
jealousy, Pride, ignorance The 5
poisons we have.
At art school.
Wish tree. 4 animals each claims the tree. Phoenixes x oldest. Stand on one
another. Realize they area family.
They are busy
preparing for the festival tomorrow when Bhudda first broi
Buy a hanging
tapestry with the four powerful animals.
At lunch butter
tea. I’m barely eating—not hungry.
Chzhh. For
cheers.
BOB Bank of
Bhutan.
Museum.
Old days first
floor animals.
Textile Museum
Documentary
Goh for men
National dress. Kira women.
Weaving a
national art’
Used to be woven
pout of metals.
SUNDAY. OCTOBER
27.
DAY 17 Sunday - Return to Kathmandu, Ancient Patan, Farewell to Nepal
Return flight to Kathmandu for an excursion to the ancient city of Patan, known as the "City of Fine Arts." Your tour begins at the main square, filled with breathtaking Hindu temples and striking Buddhist monuments. See the old Royal Palace, dominating all others in grace and grandeur and the 16th century stone Krishna Mandir, with its 21 pinnacles dedicated to Lord Krishna. Other landmarks include the Golden Temple, and the terra-cotta temple of Mahabouddha. While in Patan, attend a lecture on Patan's restoration process. Afterwards, time to rest and freshen up before tonight's festivities. A very special home hosted dinner has been arranged just for you -- a perfect conclusion to your wonderful journey through Nepal. The friends and family of the host and hostess will join you as you bid farewell to your Tour Manager and to Nepal
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
On our way to the airport (30 minutes to Kathmandu longest yet)at and to deal with the kerfuffle of the additional Nepal Visa—Gate 1’s bad. Another gorgeous day, the mountains more beautiful in relief than ever. Llamas eewee
At airport 90
Korean students who went on a base camp
trek Anup tells me as I sit beside him on the airplane.
Here in
Kathmandu pop 4.5 mill. Pokhara 300K Bob and I do a riff on Yetta commenting on
the Yeti. The wisdom of Yetta in her Yettagram. Thinking it’s not good nutr
ition that the Yetta only eats potato’s. So it goes as we travel back to our
hotel.
Lunch to calm us
after the visa kerfuffle. We’re all confused and upset. Anup finally tells us
he’ll handle it. Only somewhat mollified. Everyone happy about their food. My
fish curry is excellent.
Presentation of
healing and singing bowls. Must be handmade. The singing bowls
3 courtyards.
Main one. Hung treaties.
2 Destroyed
temples being restored by Germany, Japan etc. Mrishna Mandir not destroyed made
of stone\
Through skinny
alleyways.
5:30 to lobby
Divorce rate
high in Nepal. Small population growth. A few new international airports are
coming. Army has public works building projects—people trust them.
54 holidays a
year. But Only Saturday’s off.
Cars expensive.
Audi costing $50,000 USA costs $200,000 in Nepal.
House: construction
started st 1934 earthquake. Beautiful tin ceiling in LR.
Excellent
horsdeuvres.
Lecturer: monuments.
1600 ad. Surrounded by huge economies of China and Moguls. So Nepalese managed
trade and did well. Ideal for flow of goods. So monuments can be built. N
minted currency also.
Queen Liz
established east India co. Colonialuzed.
1700 when other
parts of world investing, N building monuments. 1767 N won over Britain. War
became expensive for N which occupied Tibet and then signed a treaty with
China. 1814 war with Britain—ended trade to South. After 1816 became poor and
landlocked. Feudalism for 200 years.
2006 became a
republic—bloodless coup.
2002-17 no
government.
1934. 8.4
richter earthquake.
After earthquake
translated from oral tradition to rebuilding monuments. Recovering the
intangible.
Wood doesn’t
last more than 400 years here. Use old parts and new to prevent damages.
8.4 billion for
total recovery. 1/2 raised now.
Future: 80 cents
of every dollar for infrastructure.
As of this year
education free up to 12thgrade.
1 in 4 N living
outside country—fear of the conflict crisis.
Saying 1600 can
occur again.
Corruption which
was rampant but improving—how to change old thinking.
Projects 3-4
years to get politically up to date. Problem locally.
Thinks there is
universalally a level playing field. N needs to be strategic between China and
India.
Tomorrow:’
6 wake up
6:30 breakfast
7:15 leaving
Feeling ill on
plane. Big D +.
MONDAY OCTOBER
29.
DAY 18, Monday - Kingdom of Bhutan
A traditional "khada" ceremony this morning as a symbolic scarf is wrapped around you, with blessings for a serene and safe journey. Travel by flight to Paro in the spiritual mountain kingdom of Bhutan with its striking monasteries and magnificent mountain scenery. Here, you'll also see traditional dzongs dotting the landscape, a distinctive type of fortress architecture with towering exterior walls surrounding complexes of courtyards, temples, and monks' accommodations. Tucked away between China and India in the heart of the Himalayas, Bhutan remains a uniquely distinct country. Upon arrival in historic Paro, drive to the capital city of Thimphu, a fabulous blend of old and new. Time to stroll through the main square and get acquainted with your new surroundings. Tonight, an orientation meeting with your new Tour Manager about the adventure that awaits you in Bhutan, followed by a Welcome Dinner together at the hotel
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
Sangay is our guide.
Pronounced with a hard g, “though I’m not gay” He looks like Buddha.
Only
international airport, 3 domestic. Here at 7500 feet in both Thimphu and Paro.
1.20 miutes to
Thimphu.
To the north
India, to theSouth China. “If all Chinese pee at once, we’ll have a big flood.”
Chu means
watery. Kuzuzanpo La.
Hello.
The people eat
lots of rice.
Ema dachi. Chili
cheese._
Pete “this is
what I was looking for. Simple living.” (They live in a Florida mansion on 10
acres.)
Arranged
marriage. Don’t trust wedding, water and wedding.
Exchange 70-100.
GNH. Gross
National Happiness.
zonka is the
language (inside the fort)
Pop Bhutan
700,000. Capital Thimphu. 130,000 people.
17th cBhuta.
Identity established. ?
G
Ladies dre ss is
Kira.
G.
At bathroom
stoop I retch agnd throw up a little.
Feels a little better.
we BH h. H
Fresh air helps.
Too. Amalphi coast like winding road doesn’t.
Family gets
only25 acres of land. King can grant more.
.
King 38, wife
28.
Kadinshay la.
Thank you.
I am really sick. Take 17 year old Cipro and
sleep fitfully as Bob goes on the tour and has the included lunch.
Lecture after my
afternoon bout with virus.
About Sangay
Boarding school
at 13. After 10th grade left for rest of studies.
Eldest son. 2
younger brothers and sister.
Went to Delhi
for college studies in English. Big change.
Tour guide in
2008. 45 days training.
3016 gate 1
introduced to Bhutan.
9 tour managers.
Next year 34 Discovery groups. (I skip the dinner.)
Sangays smiling
face at our door. He brings me three bananas staying it’s good for the
stomach..
School. Most of
the subjects taught in English. Free education through Masyers degree for good
students.
Hydroelectricity
generates income—to India. High tourist taxes.
B first opened to tourism 1974.
Prayer flags colored
for living.white for the dead.
Higher up in the hills—the wind spreads the word.
TUESDAY OCTOBER
30
DAY 19, Tuesday - Discover Thimphu
In Thimphu, you observe monks strolling serenely in their crimson robes and workers wearing traditional ghos and kiras. Your day begins with a visit to the indigenous Medical Hospital, and the Painting School where students learn thirteen different Bhutanese crafts over the six-year course including paper making, masonry, painting, sculpture, embroidery and much more. At the National Library, you view the largest book in the world before proceeding to the Folk Heritage Museum to tour the medieval home used by Bhutan's Queen mothers. Here, you enjoy a lunch of traditional Bhutanese cuisine served in the impressive and historic courtyard. At the Royal Textile museum, view unique displays of textile designs and watch a multimedia presentation before returning for dinner at the hotel and an evening at leisure
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Memorial stupa.
Saying prayers.
King 4 declared a
democracy. SId what if king is bad. Tomorrow new prime minister king will give
scarfs to new ministers.
Parliament 47
seats. Majority is ruling party. Country divided into 20 districts. 5 seats
appointed by the king.
Zong
was built in
17th c.
1/2 of song for
administration other half for monks.
We hear the
monks chanting and there they are watched over by disciplinarian monks as they
chant.
Man with a beard
started M Buddhism. Man with a mustache his disciple started Tigers nest.
Tomorrow 8:30a.
WEDNESDAY
OCTOBER 31.
DAY 20, Wednesday - Memorial Chorten, Big Buddha Hill, School of Astrology, Takin Zoo
This morning, you join Buddhists performing their daily ritual of turning the giant red prayer wheels at the whitewashed National Memorial Chorten with its shining golden finial, dedicated to the third king of Bhutan. Next, drive to the Big Buddha Hill. Here, stop at the Big Buddha Temple for a visit, or for an independent meditation. Afterward, begin a moderate hike around the temple. The area offers great views of the Thimphu Valley below. End the hike at Kuensel Phodrang Park where a picnic lunch will be provided. Afternoon drive to Pangri Zampa and visit the School of Astrology, where you learn more about this very popular study followed by many families and young monks. Afterwards, drive to the Takin Zoo where you'll finally meet a Takin, the rare national animal of Bhutan. The rest of the day is yours. Perhaps shop in one of the many handicraft stores to bring some treasures back home. At dinner this evening, High School students in traditional dress will join you and bring costumes for you to try. Opportunity to dress as a Bhutanese! It will be a great photo opportunity!
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Thimphu
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Feeling better
but CNN morning shows make me feel scared as a gay Jewish man.
Here onboard
festival day for Bhuddists when Bhudda descended from heaven to teach humans.
“Without myths and legends there is no history in Bhutan.”
Anecdote.
Traveler US phone talk to Jesus. 10K. In Bhutan local call.
Takin is
national animal. Half man half cow. Man came from Tibet to Bhutan using his penis
as power. People brought body of cow and head of goat and went to meadow for
grass. Therefore people believed.
It’s a real
animal roaming in a small zoo.
We chant ‘Om
mane bene om”
108 number. 100
Buddha’s and 8 bodhisativas. Astrology 9 planets and 12 months.’
iPhones
“connects the people from far away. Disconnects from those near.”
Feed pigs
marijuana so bacon makes u happy. No
problem with marijuana here tho illegal grows everywhere but with drugs from
Ind
17620064.
Sangay’s numbers
Individuals go
to district court. Unhappy then to high court. Then Supreme Court. Then king.
Now lawyers getting into the act.
1 or 2 murders a
year.
Stop for photos
of a z huff so the rovk and a gorgeous stream.
Temple for the
father of the man with the beard.
Having the snickers
bars that Sanjay gave us as a reward for being sensible. That is, we borrowed
an iPhone from a nice local on the trail up the mountain and called to tell
Sangay we were heading back down. Bob in particular was having difficulty
breathing (he has a cold) and I was not having enough fun navigating the
ascent.
It’s a bit of a
trek anyway back down and we meet many locals along the way, some of whom smile
and say good morning, others who look at us with curiosity. Lots of dogs
sitting around. At the lunch camp, young man Deloise (I’m sure I got it wrong)
gives us chairs facing the mountain where the monastery we didn’t climb to is
with the stream burbling below us. It’s sensationally serine (at least until a
workman comes to set up tables for the buffet for a moment) and beautiful. The
boy sets up a table for us to have at least for me tea. We talk money and two
horses come by.
Our companions
join us and soon the “picnic” lunch buffet is ready.
Pass where king
will present scarves to dignitaries.
If u can tame a
tiger why can’t u tame your wicked mine.
We had lunch at
Dordena River which becomes Thimphu River.
Sangay shows the
watch the man whose life he “saved” when trekking by warming him and who called
him his other son.'
King in speeches
to students holds coffee cup and says all products he’s drinking made elsewhere
only water from Bhutan. Thus encouraging innovation—Bhutan’s. Self-sufficiency.
Archery field. We see a contest in progress. 2
villages competing. 11 to a team. 2 out of 3. Starts 8 am ends in evening. 145
yards. Traditional. In olympics shorter and have measurements.
Unsuccessful in
getting Ginger tea sent up for Bob’s cold. I need to have missing small towels
sent up for cooling my neck which is killing me but this comes.
Evening’s
activities: 6: we fit into our costumes/native dress while we meet with the
monk who reads our astrological I prophecies.
Struggles with
our costumes. Thank goodness for Banjo our driver who ties them although my
little boy (or so I refer him as) the one I am seated next to fixes my color
later. He’s a smart and charming 12 year old in the 6th grade.
Sinjana anie
pradhan (Facebook)
What did I learn
in our conversation and subsequent bonding?
He lives in
Thimphu with his parents, father in tourism (kind of a tour manager I’m
guessing), mother, a beautician, his 79 year old grandmother and his 2 year old
brother and wishes his family were larger, He has friends—“no best friends;
they are all best friends.” (I did see him interacting happily with his
cohorts.) His Bhuddaism keeps creeping into our conversation, (and he seems
preternaturally wise), for example he learns that he must not harm or kill and
feels bad when he does. Who does he kill I ask thinking of the violence
committed in the USA. He says today he killed an ant. It was squished up (he is
a little boy) and he looks sorrowful. He explains it could be his grandfather
(his “passed”).
THURSDAY
NOVEMBER 1.
DAY 21, Thursday - Lobesa, Punakha Dzong, Punakha
An early start this morning as you drive through the scenic terrain of the Himalayas to Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan, pausing at Dochhula Pass to view the astounding snow-clad peaks of Bhutan (on a clear day.) You pass over one hundred monuments and see many colorful prayer flags along your route on your way to the Royal Botanical gardens. After lunch in the village of Lobesa, continue to Punakha Dzong, center of power until 1907, considered the most beautiful dzong in the country with its towering whitewashed walls accented by elaborately painted gold, red and black wood. By tradition, all of the Kings of Bhutan are crowned here in the 100-pillar Coronation Hall, decorated with massive gold statues and murals depicting the life of Buddha. Before dinner at the hotel, you gather to learn how to create a Mandala out of colorful rice, a spiritual and ritual symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism that represents the Universe
Overnight: Punakha
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Punakha
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Again damnit
lose my elaborate notes from this mornings on the road trip. How to recap?
Night of music
booming from the Holloween party upstairs to which we were invited.
Arise to new
pains tingling down my upper back which leads to helpful conversations with
Alisha at breakfast about remedies.
Gorgeous panoramic
views from the 108 stupas in honor of soldiers killed repelling indian
militants. King intervened. Highest inclined mountain. Sacred. 25000 feet. A
This is
Coronation Day. Also mountain bike race to 12000 feet.
Punakha goes to
Thimphu for summer. Divine Madman defeated Demon lying on ground with penis
rising/-scaring demon. Transformed into red dog He tamed.
Tourists: mostly
US, then China, Japan.
We see fired on
the roadside of people roast corn.
Before China
took over To at Bhutan had a good relationship with Tibet. Trading.
Best Chile comes from Punaka.
Anyone can
become a Buddha. Desire, anger, ignorance.
Divine madman,
mustache etc. all manefistations of Buddha.
So in Pulhara we
get a phallic blessing in the temple of the divine madman by a little boy monk
who offers us a phalus to bow Dow to followed by a hike to buy a Pharisee
carved by the storekeepershudnsnd a graduate of the Thimphu fine arts sco. She
proclaims it a nice shape.
Punalha Dzon.
Before capital shifted to Thimphu was in Pinacha. Most important. Secret sacred
temple. Only 5 can enter. Mummified man with beard. Special ceremonies start
here in Pinacha Dzong. M W B was real incarnation.
Father of 1st
king saved life of Tonga’s Governor from
being assassinated.
Tibetans came
over to fight man with beards relic—founded Mahina Buddhism. Faked them out by
throwing a fake relic in the river.
70th chief
abbott now.
In Buddhist
teaching non-attachment so offering of water—anyone can, rich or poor.
Butterscptures. Birthday candles blow out flame reminds us of death. So must be
kind in this life. Difficult. Must train our monkey mind. Food offerings
distributed to the people.
Originally 1700.
Started reconstruction in 1984. Finished 2004.
At the hotel.
We have a
magnificently large room with amazing serene views out onto the mountains and
the mad god’s dzong (though I can’t locate it in the mountains)
Mandela. Blue
for sky. White clouds. Red is fire. Green is natire. Earth is the yellow.
Mandela’s are in
circles. Practitioners use it for meditation. Temples and stupsay are in the
shape of a Mandela.
God of
compassion worshipped. Mandala is a sNscript word. To see yourself must be put
in the center.
Can focus your
mind.
White is greed.
Green jealousy. Pride antidote is calmness. Anger antidote patience. Jealousy
antidote is appreciation. Pure quality is love.
Ignorance
antidote — pure quality tolerance.
Body 5 elements.
Water blood. Air breath. Iron bones. Last space (to move).
We create our
own Mandelas from the 5 cups of colored rice. Ours is the tree of life from
inception through the troubles that life inflicts from inside and outside our
personalities to through aging awareness. All our fascinating— E
FRIDAY NOVEMBER
2
DAY 22, Friday - Chimi Lhakhang Monastery, Sisina Farm House, Tachogang Lhakhang, Paro
Visit Chimi Lhakhang, a monastery and fertility temple dedicated to a famous monk also known as "the divine madman." Famous for being unorthodox and trying to make Buddhism more relaxed, he is considered a hero in Bhutan. The monastery is also a fertility temple and couples often come here who want to have children. Later, you experience the soothing sounds of chants and spiritual music as you enter a nearby nunnery or temple. After, you continue to Paro, stopping along the way at the legendary Wang Sisina Farm House for a delicious traditional Bhutanese meal served in original earthenware by the hostess. An interesting cultural show and tour of the vast courtyards of this 300 year-old-home will also be arranged. After, you drive to Tachogang Lhakhang near Chuzom, one of the temples founded by a Tibetan saint who also designed and erected many iron suspension bridges in the early 15th century, making parts of Bhutan accessible for the very first time. At an incense making shop you learn more about this craft, and how this has become a popular small industry in this area. Arrive in the town of Paro for an orientation walk before heading to your hotel for dinner and overnight
Beautiful hotel,
huge suite with great views.
We hear previous
prime minister’s Ted talk:
Tells story of Bhutan.
How sandwiched between 2 huge countries. Triving because blessed with great
kings. GNH—is more important than GNP. Small economy. Free education, health.
Development with values. Economic concerns must not undermine environmental
values.72% under forest cover. Even though people didn’t demand democracy king
imposed it—could be impeached, retirement at 65. Carbon neutral
(Negative)
country. Export renewable energy offsets carbon dioxide. Net carbon sink.
But bearing
brunt of global warming. Nobody listened to their promise to remain carbon
neutral years ago.
Provide free
electricity to farmers, subsidizing programs,planting trees, protected areas are
their lungs. Network of biological corridors. Animals can roam free.
“Bhutan for
life” to protect parks.
Each Tourist
responsible for 250 per day expenses; $65 goes to government. No backpackers
allowed must have professional tours.
Tourists high value. How king stopped to talk to tourists and ordered birthday
cake for a woman.
Royal Botanical
Park.
We’re not going
to see many flowers—season.
 |
| OUR FABULOUS HOTEL ROOM |
Photo shoot at
the 108 stupa rest stop where we had coffee and ginger tea.
Beautiful leaves
turning as we wind down the mountain though the air isn’t as clear as yesterday
a banner day. Pass an accident—vehicle off the cliff//not cool.
Hosts at
Heritage House 18th c. She’s 11th generation. Her son 12th. Banjo, our driver’s
grandfather grew up there. Food bland though Bob and I try the vile and cheese
which is indeed Spivey.
Nov 5 5 am check
out to get to airport.
Paro has the
only international airport I the country. Most hotels.
Stop at incense
factory. Bob is allergic & pmyysays it’s a sweat shop.
Old town and new
town of Paro.
Paro for us is
souvenir shopping and attempting to change money. The latter is unsuccessful
because we had to allerted our banks of our travel. The cap one card which
works we cancelled and a new one sits uselessoin our home mailbox. So this will
plague us until late at night in the hotel and thanks to the ministrations of
Frank who has a mysterious US calling so we succeed.
Of the hotel—a
half hour away from town it is in a word magnificent a wooden masterpiece among
the best we have experienced sitting majestically in the hills with insane
views. Our accommodations are huge—front porch and enclosed balcony and a high
ceilinged Great room for such it is—likely larger than our own at home/-and
surrounded by windows looking out at those views and we’re told the Tigers Nest itself.
After the
unpacking routine and having some of our vodka, we take the path down to the
main house where we find some of our number drinking in the bar and raucously
encouraging us to try the house specialty (an excellent Tigers something) which
arrives as soon as does the liberally poured wine and invitation to dine. This food buffet—same dishes pretty much—is
among the tops yet. Good conversation with Terry and Su, born in New Guiana and
Uganda to England to Florida America,
discussing family, class, privilege, and philosophy of life.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3.
Overnight: Paro
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
SUNDAY NOVEMBER
4.
It’s Tigers Nest
day. Bob chooses to opt out. So snickers bars, tea and coffee in-room will have
to do before I head out for the 7 am bus trip—1/2 hour to the base of the
mountain which houses the famous cliff the famous Tigers Nest overlooks. The
others in our group are excitedly ready to make the 5 hour round trip trek but
when Sangay outlines once again during the ride pitfalls like air sickness and
being jostled by hellbent ponies along the way I feel that Bobs and my decision
to remain behind is an astute one. At least I get a photo of the international
icon from below as I follow the pony droppings a few hundred feet up and wave
our fellow travelers on their way walking sticks in tow. And there’s Alesia on
a pony-/I don’t think that bumpy alternative would have suited my neck.
There’s Banjo
and the bus though he needs to be interrupted from leisurely chatting with a
fellow driver to take John, the 3rd straggler, and me back to the hotel.
During the drive we learn through his limited
English that he basically gets to stay with his wife and four kids only during
the winter months of Dec-February. Then he gets to help his wife with her
farm’s winter crops rising each day before sunup. He’s had no education,
because as eldest son he had to make money for his family, though his oldest
son is in graduate school.
There’s Bob
ready for breakfast before the dining room closes on us at 9. I wonder if it
will be essentially the Sam spread as lunch and dinner.
Darn no hot spa
packages available for us—tip: arrange spa treatments first thing—but I reserve
Swedish massages at 3. Discover AlJazeera news. Certainly beats CNN and BBC
obsessions with African entrepreneurs during off-hours and the perspective that
is not instinctively pro-American is enlightening,
Knock knock,
cleaners want in so we find the lounge at the bottom of the hill in the main
building. It’s warm, it’s charming and we take advantage of its couches, mine
is “fainting” thank you.
with John who says we’re remarkable. Us?
3 pm Swedish
massages in the couples room with a lovely view of the mountains which we won’t
see anyway since we’re face down for an hour, Bob to enjoy his experience more
than I; a bit too deep tissue for my tastes.
We’re close to
polishing off our vodka before we leaVE.
MONDAY NOVEMBER
5.
DAY 24, Sunday - Ascend to "Tigers Nest"
If you're adventurous and physically fit, get ready for a memorable hike to world-famous "Tiger's Nest" or Taktsang Palphug Monastery. Located on the face of a sheer cliff above the floor of the Paro Valley, this not to be missed site is accessible by hiking. It is a strenuous uphill climb including over 700 steps. This sacred pilgrimage site is where the great tantric mystic, Padmasambhava flew on the back of the tiger and brought the teachings of the Buddhist Dharma to Bhutan (mythical belief). The Monastery clings to a cliff soaring 3,000 feet above the valley floor at an altitude of 10,000 feet. Along the way, you can hang prayer flags for world peace, or for people who are hungry, ill or in pain (in Buddhism, a prayer flag is considered a blessing). Stop for lunch and admire the breathtaking views from the cafeteria before slowly descending. Tonight, bid a fond farewell at dinner to your newfound friends and Tour Manager with whom you shared this extraordinary journey in Bhutan
Overnight: Paro
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Overnight: Paro
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
In Nepal it’s a
festival the day of the crow, tomorrow day of the Dog 5th day brothers and
sisters so Laksmi tells us on the way back to Hotel Yak and Yeti, our old digs.
We canceled our tour today. W e leave at 7 tomorrow but need to be out of the
room by noon. (Suggests Alice’s restaurant for lunch).
Our Wakeup call
in Bhutan was 4 am. Luggage out 4:30. We’re on the road at 5, aour flight 7:30.
I prevail o my seat Ages to take yet another photo of Everest.
We actually jump
the hurdle of the extra day beyond our visa (bad G1) by paying $5 at the
transit visa window
Alice Restaurant
$4 pizza and &15 wine bottle add the VAT—not Itslianpizza so we feel
authentic. It’s actually almost inedible.
TUESDAY NOVEMBER
6.
DAY 25, Monday - Depart Bhutan, Arrive in Nepal
Early this morning, depart from the airport in Paro on a flight that takes you back to Kathmandu, Nepal. The remainder of the day is at leisure for individual pursuits or join the optional Dhulikhel & Panauti Tour, where you will do some off the beaten path exploring of the Kathmandu Valley. Start out in Dhulikhel, an ancient town located about 20 miles east of Kathmandu city. You’ll hike among the rolling green hills, admiring the mountains stretching into the distance and traditional architecture that dots the area around this historic trading center along the old commercial route linking Nepal to Tibet. Along the way, you’ll climb up to Devi Temple and stop at Shanti Ban, a serene forest that is home to a giant statue of Gautama Buddha. End the hike in Panauti village, a traditional Newar settlement rich in rural character. Here, you will see several temples, including the Indreshwar Mahadev and Bhairav Temples, along with magnificent Rana-era mansions and stupas
Optional: Dhulikhel & Panauti Tour
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast
Optional: Dhulikhel & Panauti Tour
Overnight: Kathmandu
Meals: Breakfast
 |
| IT'S A HOLIDAY LIKE CHRISTMAS |
Again! The day’s notes went poof. Not into the cloud because I’ve exceeded my limits.
Once airborne
things look up. We have our very own Pretty Russian lady to serve us and pour
refills of Sauvignon Blanc. Kind of like having our own plane says Bob. Meal:
salad, prawns, dessert moi. Bob chicken and spicy rice. 5 1/2 hour flight.
Getting on to
the Emirates partner was
Meals: Breakfast
WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 7.
It’s the last
leg before Home. If you gotta do it, do it thusly. Once off the flydubai plane,
we are at last separated from the hordes when a bus flashing “business class”
comes for us alone when we descend from our plane. However we are confused as
to what to do even when we are shepherded into a bus that wends it’s way slowly
around this city of an airport to drop us off at the Emirates terminal where
our main job is to find that famous behemoth of a lounge.
Found and
discover that they do have a wine bar always wonder in middle eastern—oops
Arabian type—countries and various cuisine bars and that CNN is reporting the
first election returns. I’m actually able to sleep (an hour? More?) in the
sleeping dorm (though they do have individual sleeping rooms).
On board,
fabulous overeaten breakfast; mattress cover makes seating more comfortable. And
damned if we’re not going to enjoy the bar though I need to teach them what an
American martini is when I have the bartender discard the vermouth “Martini “
in a glass and just pour Belvedere vodka into a martini glass. All the day
passengers are sleeping in their pods. Why? We’re drinking in the bar.
Watching:
Billionaires Boys Club. Mostly interesting for Kevin Spacey’s turn as a, what
else, sociopath. Based on true story of young men whose Ponzi scheme turn
deadly.
Our carpet from India arrives and will be introduced to its compadres in the Opium Den.
We're old. Our schemes have turned out pretty well.
Our carpet from India arrives and will be introduced to its compadres in the Opium Den.
We're old. Our schemes have turned out pretty well.
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